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Forest  and  Stream  Books. 


Canoe  and  Boat  Buildings  By  w.  p.  Stephens. 

360  pp.,   and   fifty  plates  of  working  drawings. 
Prit:»_^lj^o.^2.00 
Canoe  Handling,  ByC  B.  Vaux,"Dot,"  Price  $1.00. 

Camp  G^  Canoe  Cookery,  By«'Seneca,"  Price  $1x0. 

Woodcraft,  By  "Nessmuk,"  Price  $1.00. 
Dog  Training,  By  S.  T.  Hammond,  Price  $1.00. 
Angling  Talks,  By  George  Dawson,  Price  50  cents. 

Antelope  and  Deer  of  America,  By  John  Dean 

Caton,  L.L>.  D.,  Price  $2.50. 

Small  Yachts,  By  C.  p.  Kunhardt,  Quarto.  (Size 
of  page,  i4j4xi2M»  with  sixty-three  full-page 
plates.)    Price  $7.00. 

The  Canoe  Aurora,  By  Dr.  Chas.  A.  Neide,  Price 
$1.00. 


CAiq:OE  AND  BOAT 
BUILDING. 

A  COMPLETE  MANUAL  FOR  AMATEURS. 


CONTAINING   PLAIN   AND    COMPREHENSIVE    DIRECTIONS 
FOR   THE    CONSTRUCTION    OF   CANOES,    ROW- 
ING   AND   SAILING    BOATS    AND 
HUNTING    CRAFT. 


BY 

W.    P.    STEPHENS, 

Canoeing  Editor  of  Forest   and  Stream. 


With  Numerous  Illustrations  and  Fifty  Plates  of 
Working  Drawings. 

FOURTH   EDITION, 
REVISED    AND   EXTENDED    TO    DATE. 

NEW    YORK: 
Forest  and  Stream  Publishing  Co. 

1889. 


Copyright, 

FORKST  AND  StkBAM  PcbUSHTNO  Co  . 

1889. 


PREFACE. 

The  character  and  object  of  this  book  are  set  forth  on  its 
title  page.  It  is  a  manual  designed  for  the  practical  assist- 
ance of  those  who  -wish  to  build  their  own  canoes 

The  number  of  boating  men  who  find  pleasure  merely  in 
sailing  a  boat  is  small  compared  with  those  who  delight  not 
only  in  handling,  but  as  well  in  planning,  building,  improv- 
ing or  "tinkering"  generally  on  their  pet  craft,  and  undoubt- 
edly the  latter  derive  the  greater  amount  of  pleasure  from 
the  sport.  They  not  only  feel  a  pride  in  the  result  of  their 
work,  but  their  pleasure  goes  on,  independent  of  the  seasons. 
No  sooner  do  cold  and  ice  interfere  with  sport  afloat  than 
the  craft  is  hauled  up,  dismantled,  and  for  the  next  half 
year  becomes  a  source  of  unlimited  pleasure  to  her  owner — 
and  a  nuisance  to  his  family  and  friends.  We  know  one 
eminent  canoeist  who  keeps  a  fine  canoe  in  his  cellar  and 
feeds  her  on  varnish  and  brass  screws  for  fifty  weeks  of 
every  year. 

This  class  of  boating  men,  to  whom,  by  the  way,  most  of 
the  improvements  in  boats  and  sails  are  due,  usually  labor 
under  great  disadvantages.  Their  time  for  such  work  is 
limited ;  they  have  not  the  proper  outfit  of  shop  and  tools, 
nor  the  practical  knowledge  and  skill  only  acquired  by  the 
professional  builder  after  years  of  careful  and  patient  labor; 
and  the  latter  as  a  class  are  unwilling  to  communicate  freely 
what  they  have  acquired  with  so  much  difficulty,  and  are 


4  PREFACE. 

seldom  willing  to  assist  the  amateur,  even  witli  advice .  Hia 
only  other  source  of  information  is  reading,  and  while  there 
are  books  treating  of  the  construction  of  large  vessels,  and 
others  of  the  use  of  boats,  there  are  none  giving  precisely 
the  instructions  needed  by  the  beginner  in  boat  building. 

Having  experienced  most  of  the  trials  and  mishaps  that 
fall  to  the  lot  of  the  tyro,  we  offer  in  these  pages  such  help 
as  has  proved  of  the  greatest  value  to  ourselves.  To  the 
professional  builder,  some  of  the  instructions  may  seem  ele- 
mentary and  unnecessary;  but  it  must  be  remembered  that 
we  are  not  writing  for  him,  who  by  long  practice  has  ac- 
quired an  accuracy  of  eye  and  dexterity,  that  enable  him  to 
shorten,  or  to  dispense  altogether  with  many  of  the  opera- 
tions described.  We  are  writing  for  the  amateur  who,  in 
default  of  this  training,  must  make  up  for  it  by  extra  care 
and  patience,  even  at  the  expense  of  time,  and  the  methods 
given  are  those  which  have  proved  best  adapted  to  his  pecu- 
liar requirements. 

Canoe  building  is  treated  in  detail,  as  the  processes  in- 
volved are  common  to  all  boatbuilding,  only  requiring  greater 
care  and  skill  than  ordinary  work;  and  the  principles,  once 
mastered,  may  be  applied  to  the  construction  of  any  of  the 
simpler  craft,  such  as  rowboats  and  skiffs. 

It  has  been  impossible  to  give  due  credit  to  the  originators 
for  manj'  of  the  devices  and  inventions  described;  but  to  all 
such  we  return  thanks  in  behalf  of  the  great  army  of  ama- 
teur builders  and  sailors,  in  which  we  claim  a  place. 


CONTENTS. 

I'age. 

Iktrodijction, * 

Desigxikg,  -                 ..---•-  11 

Model  I^Iaking, -       -       -  19 

Lavi>-g  Dowk,    -       - 2^ 

:Methods  op  Buildikg, 27 

Tools  axd  Materlaxs, 31 

Building, ^ 

Wells, ^'^ 

Aprons, """ 

Paddles, ^' 

Sails  and  Rigging, '''0 

Centerboakds, 88 

Rudders, ^ 

Tabernacles, ^'^ 

Tents  and  Beds, 100 

Stotes  and  Lamps, 106 

Canvas  Canoes, HI 

Boat  Building, H^ 

Appendix, 1'^^ 

Description  op  Plates, 137 


r^ 


I 


INTRODUCTION. 

T^HE  word  canoe  has  two  distinct  meanings,  having  been 
-*-  applied,  for  how  long  a  time  no  one  knows,  to  boats  of 
long  and  narrow  proportions,  sharp  at  both  ends  and  pro- 
pelled by  paddles  held  in  the  hand,  without  a  fixed  fulcrum, 
the  crew  facing  forward.  The  members  of  this  great  family 
vary  greatly  in  size  and  model,  from  the  kayak  of  the  Esqui- 
mau, to  the  long  war  canoes,  80  to  100  feet  long,  of  the 
islands  of  the  Pacific.  Within  the  past  twenty  years  the  word 
has  l;cen  applied  in  England  and  America  in  a  more  limited 
sense,  to  small  craft  used  for  racing,  traveling  and  exploring, 
as  well  as  the  general  purposes  of  a  pleasure  boat,  the  main 
essentials  being  those  mentioned  above,  while  sails  and  a  deck 
are  usually  added,  the  double  paddle  being  used  exclusively. 
In  Canada  the  term  has  for  a  long  time  been  applied  to  a 
similar  boat,  used  for  hunting  and  fishing,  without  decks, 
and  propelled  by  a  single  paddle.  The  following  pages  will 
refer  only  to  the  second  meaning  given,  as  the  one  of  most 
importance  to  the  amateur  builder,  and  as  the  instructions 
given  will  apply  equally  to  the  simpler  and  less  complicated 
Canadian  open  canoe. 

The  modern  canoe  which,  although  in  use  for  some  years 
previously,  may  be  said  to  date  from  Mr.  MacGregor's 
cruises  and  books,  1865,  6  and  7,  was  in  its  early  years 
divided  into  two  distinct  classes,  Rob  Roy  and  Nautilus,  to 
which  a  third.  Ringleader,  was  afterward  added,  but  the 
many  changes  and  improvements  have  so  multiplied  the 
models,  that  such  names  as  Nautilus,  Pearl,  Shadow,  Jersey 
Blue,  etc.,  convey  no  definite  idea  of  the  boat's  model  or 
dimension.  There  are  now  no  less  than  nine  widely  differ- 
ent models  named  Nautilus,   six  named  Pearl,  the  Jersey 


8  INTRODUCTION. 

Blue  has  changed  entirely,  and  half  a  dozen  builders  each 
offer  a  different  Shadow,  while  dozens  of  other  models  have 
sprung  up,  so  that  such  a  division  is  no  longer  possible. 

Modern  canoes  may,  however,  be  classed  in  a  different 
manner,  according  to  the  relative  proportions  of  their  pad- 
dling and  sailing  qualities,  thus: 

Paddling  Canoes — Propelled  solely  by  paddle. 

ISailable  raddling — Sail  being  used  a?  auxiliary,  as  in  the 
early  Rob  Roy. 

Sailing  and  Paddling — Both  qualities  being  about  equal,  as 
m  most  cruising  canoes. 

Paddleahle  Sailing — Fitted  mainly  for  sailing,  as  the  later 
English  boats,  the  paddle  being  auxiliary. 

Sailing — Larger  boats  for  two  or  three,  using  oars  as  aux- 
iliaries, as  the  Mersey  canoes. 

For  racing  purposes  a  different  classification  has  been 
adopted  here,  which,  with  the  English,  is  given  in  the  Ap- 
pendix. 

The  first  point  in  building  a  canoe  is  to  decide  on  the 
model  and  dimensions,  and  this  each  man  must  do  for  him- 
self, considering  carefully  the  purpose  for  which  he  will  use 
his  canoe,  the  water  she  will  sail  on,  the  load  to  be  carried, 
and  similar  details.  The  designs  given  cover  all  the  differ- 
ent classes  of  canoes,  and  from  them  one  can  be  selected  as 
a  basis  for  modification  and  improvement,  to  suit  the  builder. 
The  following  general  directions  will  aid  the  novice  in  de- 
ciding on  the  main  features  of  his  craft: 

For  small  streams  and  rivers,  where  portages  have  to  be 
made,  and  sailing  is  of  but  little  importance,  a  canoe 
14ft.x27in.  is  most  commonly  used.  She  should  have  a  flat 
floor,  little  or  no  keel,  ends  well  rounded,  little  sheer.  For 
general  cruising  work  under  sail  and  paddle,  a  canoe  J4ft.x 
30in.,  with  flat  floor,  good  bearings,  sternpost  nearly  upright, 
model  full  enough  to  carry  crew  and  stores  easily,  a  keel  of 
2  to  Sin.  or  a  centerboard.  For  large  rivers,  bays  and  open 
waters,  a  canoe  14ft.x33in.  or  15ftx31^in.,  fitted  with  a  metal 
centerboard  of  greater  or  less  weight.     The  tyro  will  be  safe 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  9 

in  following  cither  of  these  types,  according  to  his  purpose, 
as  they  are  the  ones  usually  preferred  by  canoeists. 

Any  object  floating  in  water  will  sick  until  it  displaces  a, 
weight  of  water  equal  to  its  own  weight,  thus  with  a  canoe, 
if  the  hull  weighs  901bs.,  fittings  131bs.,  sails  and  spars  151bs.. 
crew  1451bs.,  and  tent,  stores,  ets.,  501bs.,  the  total  weight 
being  SlSlbs.,  it  will  sink  until  it  displaces  313  lbs.  of  water, 

813 

or  g2^=5  cubic  feet,  as  one  cubic  foot  of  fresh  water  weighs 
62.51bs.  If  in  salt  water,  the  divisor  would  be  65,  a  foot  of 
the  latter  being  2 Jibs,  heavier  than  fresh. 

Now,  if  that  portion  of  our  canoe  which  is  below  her  pro- 
posed waterline  contains  less  than  5  cu.  ft.,  through  being 
cut  away  too  much,  the  boat  will  sink  deeper  than  was  in- 
tended, diminishing  the  freeboard  and  increasing  the  draft. 
This  fault  is  found  in  some  of  the  smaller  canoes  with  fine 
lines,  as  when  loaded  to  their  full  capacity  they  sink  so  deep 
as  to  be  hard  to  paddle,  and  unsafe  in  rough  water.  To 
guard  against  it,  a  rather  full  model  is  desirable  for  cruising, 
where  stores,  etc.,  must  be  carried,  it  being  hardly  necessary 
to  calculate  the  displacement,  as  is  done  with  larger  boats. 

If,  in  making  a  model,  a  block  of  wood  be  taken  14in, 
long,  2|in.  wide  and  iin.  thick,  or  one-twelfth  as  large  each 
way  as  tlic  portion  of  a  14ft.  canoe  below  water,  it  will  con- 
tain 17.5  cu.  in.,  and  if  our  model,  when  cut  from  this  block, 
contains  but  5  cu.  in. ,  it  will  be  ^s-;  or  .  28  of  the  original  block. 

This  fraction,  .28,  is  called  the  coefiicient  of  the  displace- 
ment, and  expresses  the  proportion  between  the  bulk  of  the 
boat  below  water  and  a  solid  whose  dimensions  are  the 
length  on  loadline,  the  beam  on  loadline,  and  the  depth  from 
loadline  to  the  outside  of  the  bottom  next  the  keel.  In 
yachts  it  varies  from  .25  to  .50,  the  former  being  called 
"light  displacement"  and  the  latter  "heavy  displacement"' 
boats. 

The  displacement  can  be  obtained,  if  desired,  by  first 
weighing  the  entire  block,  and  after  cutting  out  the  model 
weighing  that  also,  the  ratio  of  one  to  the  other  being  the 
coefficient  of  displacement  mentioned  above. 


10  INTRODUCTION. 

In  the  first  class  of  canoes  referred  to,  it  is  important  to 
have  the  draft  as  light  as  is  possible,  as  they  are  used  often 
in  very  shoal  waters.  If  built  with  a  flat  floor  they  need  not 
draw  over  4i  or  5in.,  the  keel  adding  about  liri.  more. 
Canoes  of  the  second  class  usually  draw  Gin.  exclusive  of 
keel,  which  varies  from  1  to  3in.,  the  latter  being  the  ex- 
treme limit  allowed  by  the  Association  rules.  The  larger 
canoes  are  mostly  centerboard  boats,  and  draw  from  6  to 
Tin.  with  no  outside  keel.  The  draft  should  be  decided  on 
and  the  position  of  the  waterline  fixed  in  the  design,  and  the 
canoe  trimmed  to  it  as  nearly  as  possible  at  first,  changes  in 
the  ballasting  being  afterward  made  if  they  seem  necessary. 

The  freeboard  is  the  distance  from  the  water  to  the  deck, 
and  in  most  canoes  it  is  less  than  it  should  be.  The  "least 
freeboard,"  or  the  distance  from  the  water  to  the  lowest 
point  of  the  deck,  may  be  4,  5,  and  6in.  respectively  for  each, 
of  the  classes. 

The  curve  of  the  gunwale  from  the  bow  downward  to  the 
middle  of  the  boat,  and  up  again  at  the  stern,  is  called  the 
sheer.  The  height  of  the  bow  above  the  point  where  the 
freeboard  is  least,  is  usually  Sin.  in  the  first  class  of  canoes, 
^and  6  to  7in.  in  the  latter  two,  the  stern  being  about  2in. 
lower  than  the  bow  in  each. 

The  rocker  is  the  curve  of  the  keel  upward  from  a  straight 
line,  and  should  be  about  Sin.  for  a  14ft.  boat. 

The  midship  section  is  a  section  across  the  boat  at  its 
greatest  beam,  and  on  its  shape  the  model  of  the  boat  largely 
depends.  As  a  canoe  must  carry  a  comparatively  heavy 
load  on  a  light  draft,  and  must  sail  with  little  ballast,  a  flat 
floor  is  desirable.  The  sides  should  be  vertical  or  slightly 
flaring,  the  "tumble  home"  or  rolling  in  of  the  upper  streak 
detracting  from  stability,  and  being  of  no  use. 

The  round  of  deck  may  be  Sin.  in  a  .".Tin.  boat,  and  S^in. 
in  a  30  to  33in.  boat,  as  a  high  crown  adds  greatly  to  the 
room  below,  frees  the  deck  quickly  of  water,  and  no  valid 
objection  can  be  made  to  it. 


DESIGNING. 


'T^O  go  into  the  subject  of  designing  at  any  length  is  outside 
of  the  scope  of  our  present  work,  but  a  short  descrip- 
tion of  the  method  of  drawing  and  tools  used,  will  enable  the 
beginner  to  do  all  the  work  necessary  for  a  small  boat,  and 
will  also  serve  to  introduce  him  to  a  most  fascinating  em- 
ployment for  his  leisure  hours,  the  importance  of  which  to 
the  intelligent  and  progressive  yachtsman  or  boat  sailor  is 
now  generally  admitted. 

The  amateur  will  require  a  drawing-board,  which  for  canoe 
work  need  be  only  a  smooth  piece  of  white  pine  three  feet 
long,  one  foot  six  inches  wide,  and  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
thick;  the  lower  and  left  hand  edges  being  straight  and  at  a 
right  angle  to  each  other;  a  T  square  about  thirty-six  inches 
long,  one  or  two  triangles  of  wood,  or  better  of  hard  rubber, 
a  pair  of  dividers  with  plain  and  pencil  points,  several  ship 
curves  of  various  patterns,  scales  and  splines.  These  latter 
are  long  flexible  strips  of  wood  or  rubber,  and  are  used  for 
drawing  curves.  They  are  usually  held  in  place  by  lead 
weights  at  short  intervals,  but  an  easier  and  cheaper  way  is 
to  confine  them  by  small  pins  driven  into  the  board.  The 
best  scales  are  those  printed  on  strips  of  bristol  board,  eigh- 
teen inches  long,  costing  twenty  cents  each.  They  may  be 
had  with  any  desired  number  of  parts  to  the  inch.  The  most 
convenient  scale  for  a  canoe  drawing  is  two  inches  to  the  foot 


12  DESIGNING. 

(one-sixth  full  size),  or  one  and  a  half  inches,  in  which  case 
a  common  two-foot  rule  may  be  used,  each  division  of  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  on  which  will  represent  one  inch.  For 
the  sail  plan  the  scale  may  be  one-quarter  of  an  inch  to 
the  foot. 

A  good  paper  for  working  drawings  is  the  "roll  detail 
paper"  which  is  strong,  buff  in  color  and  may  be  had  of 
four  or  five  feet  in  width  and  of  any  length.  Some  drawing 
pins  are  also  needed  to  fasten  the  paper  to  the  board,  or  if  it 
is  to  remain  there  for  some  time,  small  copper  tacks  may  be 
used,  as  the  square  and  triangle  will  work  over  them  more 
easily.  A  few  pencils  and  an  India  rubber  will  complete 
the  necessary  outfit,  a  drawing  pen  being  added  if  the  draw- 
ings are  to  be  inked  in  when  completed,  as  they  should  be. 
If  much  work  is  proposed  a  few  more  curves  may  be  added, 
a  pair  of  small  spacing  dividers,  bow  pen  and  pencil. 

Three  views  are  always  used  in  delineating  a  vessel,  as 
Bhown  in  Plate  I.  Tliese  are  called  the  sheer  plan, 
half  breadth  plan,  and  body  plan.  The  sheer  plan  is  a 
vertical  section,  lengthwise  of  the  boat,  showing  the  curve  of 
stem  and  stern,  the  rabbet  lines,  the  sheer  or  deck  line 
ab  c,  and  the  buttock  lines,  as  curved  lines;  and  the  water' 
lines,  Nos.  1,  2,  3,  4,  and  the  frame  lines,  1  to  13,  as  straight 
lines. 

The  half  breadth  plan  shows  the  width  of  one  side  of  the 
boat  at  the  deck  and  at  each  of  the  water  lines,  these  lines 
being  curved  (as  well  as  the  diagonals  Nos.  1  and  2),  the  frame 
and  buttock  lines  being  straight.  The  body  plan  shows  the 
cross  section  at  every  frame  line  or  square  station  (1  to  13); 
also,  the  line  of  the  deck,  a  6  c,  as  it  appears  from  a  point 
directly  in  front  of  the  boat.  The  lines  in  the  right-hand 
half  (1  to  X)  are  the  sections  of  the  forward  body,  and  those 
to  the  left  (X  to  13)  the  after  body.  The  water  lines,  buttock 
lines  and  diagonals  are  all  straight  in  this  plan. 

The  general  type  of  canoe  being  decided  on,  we  will  make 
out  a  table  of  dimensions  for  reference  in  drafting,  as 
follows: 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  13 

DIMENSIONS  OP    CKUI8ING    CANOE. 

Length,  over  all 14    ft. 

Beam,  extreme 30    in. 

Beam,  at  water  line 29    in. 

Draft  of  water 7    in. 

Depth,  water  line  to  rabbet  (distance /A) 5    in. 

Depth  of  keel 2    in. 

Freeboard,  bow  (distance  a  e) 11    in. 

Freeboard,  midships  (distance  6/) 5    in. 

Freeboard,  stem  (distance eg) 9    in. 

Sheer  at  bow 6    in. 

Sheer  at  stern 4    in. 

Round  (or  crown),  of  deck 3}^in. 

Thickness  of  piank  and  deck J4ui. 

Keel,  sided  (thickness) 1    in. 

Keel,  moulded  (depth) Iiy^n. 

Stem  and  stem,  sided  (thickness) 1    in. 

Rake  of  stern  post 2    in. 

With  the  paper  stretched  as  tightly  as  possible,  and  the 
board  on  a  table  of  convenient  height  before  us,  the  light 
coming  from  the  upper  left  hand  corner  of  the  paper,  we 
first  draw  a  base  line,  A  B,  near  the  lower  edge  of  the  paper 
and  in  length  equal  to  14ft.  on  our  scale,  using  the  "T  square 
with  its  head  held  firmly  against  the  left-hand  edge  of  the 
board.  Now  starting  at  0,  the  right-hand  end  of  the  base 
line,  we  lay  off  with  the  dividers  14  spaces  of  1ft.  each, 
numbering  them  fiora  1  to  14  as  in  the  drawing,  and,  shift- 
ing the  T  square  to  the  lower  edge  of  the  board,  we  draw 
vertical  lines  at  each  point  of  division,  or  15  in  all,  pro- 
longing them  sufficiently  to  cross  the  sheer  plan  above. 

Now  at  a  distance  from  A  B  equal  to  half  the  extreme 
beam,  in  this  case  ^i-  or  15in.,  we  draw  a  horizontal  line. 
Leaving  a  little  space  between  the  upper  limit  of  the 
half  breadth  plan  and  the  sheer  plan,  we  draw  the  base  line 
of  the  latter,  C  D,  and  parallel  to  it,  and  at  any  convenient 
distance  apart,  the  water  lines,  Nos.  1,  2,  etc.,  drawing 
in  first  the  load  water  line  at  a  distance/^,  above  C  D,  equal 
to  5in. 

The  other  water  hnes.  one  above  and  two  below  the  load 
water  lines,  are  spaced  2in.  apart  as  the  most  convenient 


I 


14  DESIONING. 

division  in  this  case.  Tlie  middle  buttock  and  bow  lines, 
and  any  others  that  may  bo  necessary,  are  now  drawn  in  the 
half  breadth  and  body  plans,  and  the  diagonals  are  also 
drawn  in  the  latter. 

To  avoid  confusion  of  the  many  lines  necessary,  it  is 
well  to  draw  these  "construction  lines,"  which  are  the  frame 
work  on  which  the  drawing  is  constructed,  in  red;  then 
when  the  drawing  is  completed,  the  water  lines  and 
diagonals  in  the  half  breadth  plan  are  drawn  in  blue,  the 
latter  lines  being  broken,  the  former  full.  The  remaining 
outlines  are  drawn  in  full  black  lines.  The  base  line  C  D  is 
supposed  to  pass  through  the  lowest  point  of  the  hull  of 
the  boat,  exclusive  of  keel,  which  point,  in  nearly  all 
canoes,  would  be  the  bottom  of  the  planking  at  midships, 
next  the  keel. 

Having  the  paper  laid  off,  we  will  begin  with  the  sheer 
plan,  laying  off  between  stations  7  and  8  the  least  freeboard, 
bf  ox  5in.,  making  a  small  circle  to  mark  the  place.  Now 
at  the  bow  we  measure  up  a  6  or  llin.  from  the  water  line 
to  the  deck  line,  at  the  same  time  measuring  in  the  width 
that  our  stem  is  to  be,  outside  of  the  rabbet,  IJ  in. ;  and 
similarly  at  the  stern,  measure  up  9in.  and  in  lin.  to 
the  points  a  and  c.  Taldng  a  long  spline,  we  will  lay  it  on 
the  drawing  so  as  to  pass  through  these  three  spots,  con- 
fining it  by  lead  weights  or  by  small  pins  on  either  side  of 
it  at  each  point.  If  it  does  not  take  a  "fair"  curve  without 
any  abrupt  bends,  other  pins  or  weights  must  be  added  at 
various  points  until  it  is  true  and  fair  throughout,  when  the 
line  may  be  drawn  in  with  a  pencil. 

Next  the  outline  of  the  bow,  bottom  of  keel  and  stern  may 
be  drawn  in  with  a  spline  or  the  curves,  and  also  the  rabbet 
line,  showing  the  ending  of  the  plank.  The  height  of  the 
crown  of  the  deck  at  midships  may  also  be  laid  off,  and  the 
middle  line  of  the  deck  drawn.  The  center  line  of  the  mid- 
ship section  is  E  F,  the  manner  of  finding  its  position  being 
given  further  on,  and  on  each  side  of  it  at  a  distance  equal 
to  half  the  extreme  beam,  the  perpendiculars  s  s  are  drawn; 
then,  using  a  small  spline  or  a  curve,  the  midship  section  is 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  15 

drawn,  according  to  the  taste  of  the  designer,  the  line  begin- 
ning at  rabbet  in  the  keel,  and  ending  at  the  point  5,  which 
is,  of  course,  as  high  above  the  water  line  as  the  correspond- 
ing point  in  the  sheer  plan.  The  midship  section  is  com- 
pleted by  drawing  in  the  other  half,  measuring  with  the 
dividers  the  breadths  from  E  F  on  each  water  line,  and 
transferring  them  to  the  opposite  side,  afterward  drawing  a 
curve  through  all  the  points  thus  found.  The  round  of  the 
deck  may  also  be  drawn  in  the  body  plan,  joining  the  two 
extremes  of  the  midship  section. 

Now  proceeding  to  the  half  breadth  plan  we  will  first 
draw  in  the  half  breadth  of  the  keel,  stem  and  stem.  In 
a  keel  canoe  the  breadths  will  be  the  same  throughout,  from 
^  to  lin.,  but  in  a  centerboard  boat  the  keel  must  be  wider 
amidships,  to  allow  room  for  the  trunk.  In  this  boat  the 
width  at  the  bow  and  stern  is  lin..  so  welay  off  |in.  and  draw 
a  line  parallel  to  A  B,  to  represent  the  "half  siding"  of  the 
keel,  as  it  is  called.  The  same  distance  is  laid  off  on  each 
side  of  E  F  in  the  body  plan,  being  other  views  of  the  same 
line. 

The  keel  being  laid  off,  the  half  breadth  at  the  deck  is 
taken  from  the  body  plan  and  set  off  at  X  on  the  half 
breadth  plan.  The  side  line  of  the  deck,  of  course,  passes 
through  this  point,  its  ends  meeting  the  side  of  the  keel  at 
the  points  a  and  c,  the  distances  of  these  points  from  stations  0 
and  14  respectively,  being  the  widths  of  the  stem  piece  and 
stern  post  outside  of  the  planking.  A  spline  is  bent  through 
the  three  points  so  as  to  give  the  desired  fulness  at  bow  and 
stem,  and  the  "sideline,"  or  half  breadth,  on  deck  is  drawn 
in. 

The  breadth  on  No.  2  water  line  is  now  laid  off  at  X  and  the 
endings  of  the  line  determined  by  squaring  down  from  those 
points  in  the  sheer  plan  where  No.  2  water  line  cuts  the 
rabbet  of  bow  and  stern  to  the  siding  of  the  keel  in  the  half 
breadth  plan.  To  test  it  we  will  run  in  some  of  the  interme- 
diate sections  in  the  body  plan,  beginning  with  No.  4. 

Three  points  of  the  water  line  are  now  determined,  and  to 
obtain  others  we  refer  to  Table  I.  in  the  Appendix  and  find 


16  DESIGNING. 

first,  that  in  most  of  the  canoes  there  described  the  midship 
section  is  placed  at  about  the  middle  of  the  load  line,  which 
in  our  boat  would  be  2^in.  aft  of  Station  7,  the  length  on 
loadline  being  13ft.  4*in.,  the  fore  body  being  6ft.  S^in.  and 
after  body  6ft.  81n.  An  inspection  of  the  tables  shows  that 
the  length  of  the  "middle  ordinate"  (k  I)  in  canoes  of  a  me- 
dium type  is  about  37  per  cent,  of  the  beam  at  the  water 
line.  Taking  36+  per  cent  of  29in.  we  have  lO^in.  as  the 
half  breadth  at  the  middle  of  the  fore  body 

For  purposes  of  comparison  of  the  various  canoes,  a 
dividing  buttock  and  body  line  is  also  iLsed,  being  drawn  in 
the  body  and  half  breadth  plans,  midway  between  the  center 
and  the  extreme  beam.  The  distances  (rs—t  v)  of  the  inter- 
sections of  this  line  with  the  load  water  line,  afford  a  com- 
parative measure  of  the  degree  of  fullness  of  the  boats, 
which  for  the  bow  ranges  from  29  to  47  per  cent,  of  the 
length  of  the  fore  body,  and  for  the  stern  from  25  to  46  per 
cent,  of  the  after  body,  the  larger  fraction,  of  course,  indi- 
cating a  finer  boat.  For  the  fore  body  we  will"  take  36  per 
cent  as  an  average  of  cruising  boats,  then  36  per  cent,  of 
6ft.  8^in.=2ft.  6in.,  which,  laid  off  along  the  bowline  from 
the  fore  side  of  the  stem  at  water  line,  gives  a  point  on  the 
water  line,  and  similarly,  taking  40  per  cent,  (a  rather  large 
figure,  but  the  boat  in  question  has  a  very  fine  run)  we  have 
40  per  cent,  of  6ft.  8in.==2ft.  Sin.,  which  is  laid  off  from  the 
after  side  of  stem  at  w  I.  "With  these  five  points  given  a 
spline  is  readily  set  and  the  water  line  drawn  in. 

Turning  now  to  the  body  plan  (the  right  hand  side  of 
which  represents  the  frames  of  the  fore  body,  and  the  left 
those  of  the  afterbody)  the  sheer  or  deck  line,  a  b  c,  is  drawn. 
The  "T  square  is  laid  across  the  board  at  the  height  of  the 
stem ;  a  in  the  sheer  plan  is  squared  across  to  the  half -siding 
of  the  stem  at  a  in  the  body  plan,  and  similarly  the  heights 
at  Stations  2,  4,  6,  are  squared  in.  Xow  the  half  breadth 
at  Station  6  is  taken  from  the  half  breadth  plan  with  the 
dividers  and  set  off  to  the  right  of  E  F  at  the  proper  height, 
then  4  and  2  are  treated  in  the  same  manr.er,  after  which 
a  curve  is  drawn  from  X  through  the  spots  to  a,  showing 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  17 

the  deck  line  of  Ihe  port  side  of  the  canoe,  as  it  appears  from 
a  point  directly  in  front,  after  which  the  line  is  drawn  in  the 
after  body  in  the  same  manner.  Of  course  this  Ime  gives  the 
upper  endings  of  all  the  frame  lines,  1  to  13. 

Only  every  other  one  of  these  is  drawn  in,  the  moulds 
thus  being  2ft.  apart,  but  by  laying  off  the  stations  1ft.  apart, 
the  bulkheads,  masts,  etc.,  are  more  easily  located. 

The  lower  ends  of  all  frame  lines  will  be  on  the  side  line 
of  keel  in  body  and  half  breadth  plans,  the  heights  being 
taken  along  the  rabbet  at  each  station  in  the  sheer  plan. 
Stations  4  and  10  are  now  completed,  the  breadths  on  the 
water  line  being  transferred  from  the  half  breadth  to  the 
body  plan,  and  curves  drawn  through  the  three  points  in  each 
frame  thus  obtained. 

Now  the  remainiiig  water  lines,  Nos.  1,  3  and  4,  maybe 
drawn  in  the  half  breadth  plan,  their  endings  being  foimd 
by  squaring  down  from  their  intersections  with  the  rabbet  in 
the  sheer  plan  and  the  breadths  at  4,  X  and  10  being  taken  from 
the  body  plan.  When  all  the  water  lines  are  fair,  the  frame  lines 
at  4  and  10  being  altered  slightly,  if  necessary,  to  correspond, 
the  remaining  stations,  2,  6,  8  and  12.  may  be  completed. 

The  design  is  now  ready  for  the  final  fairing,  for  which 
the  "diagonals"  No.  1  and  No.  2  are  drawn  in  the  body  plan. 
These  lines  should  be  so  drawn  as  to  intersect  all  the  frame 
lines  at  as  near  a  right  angle  as  possible.  The  distances  along 
the  diagonal  from  the  point  i  to  the  intersection  of  each 
frame  line,  are  taken  off  in  turn,  and  laid  off  on  their  corres- 
ponding stations  in  the  half  breadth  plan,  and  a  line  is 
drawn  through  the  points.  If  the  line  is  unfair  it  must  be 
altered,  the  corresponding  points  in  the  water  and  frame 
lines  being  changed  at  the  same  time,  until  all  coincide,  the 
breadths  and  heights  of  every  intersection  being  the  same  in 
all  three  plans,  when  it  may  be  assumed  that  the  drawing  is 
fair. 

The  endings  of  the  diagonals  arc  found  by  squaring  across 
from  the  points  in  the  body  plan  where  they  cross  the  siding 
of  stem  and  stern  to  the  rabbet  line  on  stem  and  stern  in  the 
sheer  plan,  and  then  squaring  down  these  points  to  the  sidicg 


18  DESIGNING. 

in  the  half  breadth  plan.  The  diagonals  may  be  laid  off  in 
two  ways,  either  an  "expanded,"  as  already  described,  or  a 
"level"  diagonal,  in  which  the  distances  from  E  F  in  the 
body  plan  to  each  intersection  are  measured  horizontally  as 
q  d. 

As  an  additional  test  of  fairness  other  "buttock"  lines  may 
be  run  in.  These  are  drawn  in  the  body  and  half  breadth 
plans,  parallel  to  the  center  lines,  and  are  transferred  to 
the  sheer  plan  by  taking  the  height  of  each  intersection  in 
the  body  plan  and  setting  it  off  on  the  corresponding  sta- 
tion, the  curve  being  drawn  through  the  "spots"  afterward. 
The  endings  of  the  buttock  lines  aie  found  by  squaring  up 
from  the  points  in  the  half  bieadth  plan  where  they  cross 
the  deck  line,  to  the  deck  line  in  the  slieer  plan. 

The  process  of  "fairing"  may  be  considered  as  completed 
when  all  the  curved  lines  are  true  and  fair,  and  the  heights 
and  breadths  of  every  intersection  are  the  same  in  each  of 
the  three  plans. 

This  completes  the  "construction  drawing  "  from  which 
the  calculations,  if  any,  are  made.  Plate  II.  represents  the 
completed  "working  drawing"  of  the  same  canoe,  showing 
dimensions  of  keel,  ribs,  etc.,  and  the  position  of  all  fittings. 
This  may  be  a  separate  drawing,  or  the  details  may  be 
added  to  the  "construction  drawing,"  after  which  all  lines 
are  Inked  in,  as  before  directed. 


MODEL    MAKING. 


TF  the  method  of  designing  described  be  followed  there 
-*-  will  be  no  necessity  for  a  model,  but  unless  the  amateur 
has  had  some  practice  in  drafting  it  will  be  easier  for  him  to 
first  make  a  model,  shaping  it  by  eye,  and  then  to  take  the 
lines  from  it. 

In  this  case  the  design  will  be  started  on  paper,  as  previ- 
ously described,  the  sheer  plan  completed  and  the  deck  line 
drawn  in  the  half  breadth  plan.  To  make  the  model,  a  block 
of  soft  dry  white  pine  is  required  of  a  size  to  correspond 
with  the  scale  of  the  drawing.  The  portion  below  the 
water  line  will  be  made  of  several  thicknesses  of  pine  and 
walnut  or  mahogany  placed  alternately.    Each  piece  will 


Fig.  1. 

be  of  the  same  thickness  as  the  distance  between  the  water 
lines.  A  sufficient  number  of  these  pieces  are  taken  to  make 
up  the  required  depth,  and  are  fastened  together  with  a  few 
screws  so  placed  near  the  back  as  not  to  interfere  with  the 
shaping  of  the  model,  and  on  top  of  all  the  pine  piece  is 
screwed,  making  a  block  like  Fig.  1. 

This  block  is  now  laid  on  tlie  drawing,  each  of  the  divi- 


20 


MODEL  MAKING. 


sions  marked  on  it  and  numbered  and  the  lines  drawn  on 
eacli  of  the  four  sides.  On  the  bacli  of  the  block  the  sheer 
plan  is  drawn,  omitting  the  keel,  il  any,  which  will  be  added 
afterward.  The  half  breadths  on  deck  are  now  taken  with 
the  dividers  from  the  half  breadth  plan  and  transferred  to 
the  top  of  the  block,  the  curve  run  in  with  a  spline  pinned 
to  the  spots,  and  the  block  is  cut  to  the  line  ABC. 

The  lines  on  the  bottom  of  the  block  are  now  squared  up 
across  the  new  face,  Fig.  2,  the  heights  of  the  deck  Une  taken 


Fig.  2. 


from  the  sheer  plan  and  set  off  on  their  proper  stations,  and 
a  line  A  D  E  drawn  through  the  spots.  The  wood  is  now 
cut  away  to  this  line  on  the  curved  tide  and  the  line  repre- 
senti- g  the  middle  of  the  deck  on  the  back,  leaving  of  course 
the  same  crown  to  the  block  as  it  is  intended  that  the  deck 
shall  have.  Next  the  back  of  the  block  is  cut  to  the  lines  of 
the  bow,  stern  and  bottom. 

The  block  is  now  screwed  fast  to  a  piece  of  board,  which 
latter  is  nailed  or  screwed  to  the  work-bench,  to  as  to  hold  it 
firmly,  and  cut  to  the  shape  desired  by  the  builder,  the  mid- 
ship section  being  first  roughed  out,  then  the  ends  being  cut 
away,  and  all  finally  finished  off  with  sandpaper.  To  com 
plcte  the  model  it  is  mounted  on  a  board,  the  keel  added,  be- 
ing glued  to  the  board,  it  is  varnished,  and  screw  eyes  put  in 
to  bang  it  up  by.  The  model  itself  should  be  sciewed  to  the 
board  so  as  to  be  easily  removed. 

To  take  the  lines  from  the  block  model  the  pieces  are  un- 
screwed and  each  laid  in  turn  on  the  half  breadth  plan  and 
the  edge  traced  thereon,  giving  the  water  lines,  from  which 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  21 

the  body  plan  may  be  drawn  in.  If  it  is  desired  to  make  a 
model  from  a  drawinpf  already  completed,  the  operation  is 
reversed,  the  pieces  or  "lifts"  are  planed  to  the  proper  thick- 
ness, the  stations  laid  oS  across  each,  and  the  half  breadths 
set  oil,  the  curve  of  the  water  line  drawn,  and  the  piece 
trimmed  away  to  the  line.  After  a  piece  is  prepared  for 
each  water  line,  all  are  screwed  together  and  the  edges 
rounded  off,  forming  a  fair  surface. 

It  is  sometimes  necessary  to  take  the  lines  from  a  solid 
iLodcl,  to  do  which  the  sheer  plan  is  traced  on  paper,  the 
half  breadths  on  deck,  and  the  heights  to  deck  line  are  taken 
off  by  the  divi'ders,  and  the  lines  drawn  on  the  paper,  then 
the  frame  lines  are  obtained  by  bending  a  thin  strip  of  lead 
around  the  model  and  tracing  the  outline  of  it  on  the  paper 
in  the  proper  position,  shown  by  the  deck  and  sheer  lines. 
The  drawing  being  completed,  the  next  operation  is  laying 
down. 


LAYING  DOWN. 


This  is  the" enlarging  of  the  drawing  to  the  full  size  of  the 
boat,  and  is  necessary  in  all  boat  and  ship  building.  For 
large  vessels,  the  drawing  is  made  on  the  floor  of  the 
"mould  loft,"  either  in  one  continuous  length,  or  in  the  case 
of  very  long  vessels,  in  two  portions  overlapping  each  other. 
For  small  work  a  wide  board  will  answer,  16ft.  long  and  2ft. 
wide,  or  less,  according  to  the  size  of  the  boat. 

On  this  common  roll  drawing  paper  is  laid  and  tacked, 
and  it  is  divided  off,  as  was  described  for  the  detail  drawing, 
except  that  the  half  breadth  plan  will  now  overlap  the  sheer 
plan  to  save  room.  Keferring  now  to  the  detail  drawing, 
a  "table  of  offsets"  is  made.  A  sheet  of  paper  is  ruled  in 
vertical  columns,  one  for  each  square  station,  and  also  in 
horizontal  lines  as  follows.  In  this  table  is  set  down  the 
heights  above  base  line  of  the  stem,  rabbet  and  sheer,  and 


MODEL  MAKING. 


the  half  breadth  at  the  deck,  on  each  waterline,  and  on  the 
diagonals: 


Half  Breadths. 


l-i  63 


^ 


5;    5?: 


05 

s 
Pa- 


iS      «JC 


J*: 


K     ^     s: 


s: 


M  i— 


^     s:     ^     s: 


i^     i^ 


« 


« 


I     ^ 


1^        wT        oST 


^ 


,■?: 


o  l-i 


^ 


From  ■  this  table  the  lines  are  laid  down  full  size  on  the 
paper,  each  distance  being  measured  off  on  its  proper  frame 
or  water  line,  and  a  long,  thin  batten  of  pine  run  through 
the  spots  thus  found.  As  we  are  now  working  from  a  smaller 
scale  to  a  larger,  all  errors  are    increased  in  the  same  ratio. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING-.  Z^ 

and  though  the  small  drawing  may  have  been  accurate 
there  will  be  some  errors  in  the  large  one,  and  to  correct 
these  the  same  process  cf  "fairing"  is  necessary,  as  was  be- 
fore described ;  running  in  the  water  lines,  frame  lines,  and 
diagonals  with  the  battens  until  all  the  curved  lines  are  fair 
and  regular,  and  the  breadths  and  heights  of  every  point 
are  the  same  in  all  three  plans  When  the  drawing  is  faired 
the  remaining  details,  such  as  masts,  bulkheads,  floor,  etc  , 
are  drawn  in  their  proper  places. 

The  lines  of  the  drawing  now  show  the  outside  surface 
of  tlie  plank,  but  the  moulds  over  which  the  boat  is 
built  must,  of  course,  correspond  with  the  inner  surface  of 
planking.  In  large  work  the  model  is  often  made  to  the 
outside  of  the  frames  only,  then  the  breadths,  when  taken 
off,  show  the  actual  size  of  the  frame.  If  the  working  draw- 
ings are  maJe  to  include  the  plank,  the  thickness  of  the 
latter  is  deducted  at  some  stage  of  the  drafting  prior  to  lay- 
ing down.  In  our  canoe,  for  convenience,  the  drawings  will 
all  include  the  plank,  so  in  making  the  moulds  its  thickness, 
iin.,  must  be  deducted. 

To  copy  the  frame  lines,  a  piece  of  thin  board  or  card- 
board A  BC  D,  Plate XiX.,  is  slipped  under  the  paper  of  the 
lar^e  drawing,  adjusted  unc.cr  the  line  to  be  copied,  and 
held  in  place  by  a  couple  of  tacks.  Setting  the  points  of  the 
compasses  iin.  apart,  a  row  of  spots  is  pricked  through  the 
paper  into  the  board,  \\n.  inside  the  frame  line,  shown  by 
the  small  circles  in  Fig.  3.  At  the  same  time  points  on  the 
center  line,  E  F,  load  water  line  and  the  diagonals  Dl  and 
D2  are  also  marked.  The  board  is  then  removed,  a  batten 
run  tnrough  the  spots.and  the  wood  trimmed  away  to  the  line. 
If  the  drawing  is  made  on  a  board  or  floor  the  lines  may  be 
taken  off,  as  in  Fig.  4. 

A  batten  about  f  x^in.  is  bent  along  the  line  on  the  floor 
and  held  down  by  flat-headed  nails.  A  piece  of  board  is 
laid  on  top  of  the  batten  and  a  mark  scratched  on  its  under 
side  with  the  piece  of  bent  wire  shown  at  A.  In  this  case, 
after  cutting  to  the  mark  another  line  must  be  gauged  ^in. 
inside  the  edge,  and  a  second  cut  made  to  it,  after  which  it 


24 


MODEL  MAKING. 


is  laid  on  the  drawing  and  the  center  line,  water  line  and 
diagonals  laid  oS.  on  it. 


Fig.  4. 


To  make  the  complete  mould,  a  piece  of  lin.  pine  ia 
planed  up  on  one  edge,  H  I,  Fig,  3.  a  center  line  E  F,  is  drawn 
at  right  angles  to  it,  and  also  the  load  water  hne.  then  the 
pattern  is  laid  on  this  boaid,  adjusted  to  the  center  and 
water  lines,  and  one-half  marked  off;  then  the  pattern  is 
turned  over,  adjusted  on  the  other  side  of  E  F,  and  that  side 
also  marked  off,  the  diagonals  being  marked  at  the  same 
time. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDINO.  25 

JL E I 


Fig.  6. 


26  ^  MODEL  MAKING 

As  the  boat  tapers  from  midships  to  the  ends,  it  will  be 
evident  that  the  after  side  of  the  forward  moulds  will  be 
slightly  larger  than  the  fore  sides,  and  the  reverse  will  be  the 
case  with  the  after  moulds,  No.  X  having  both  sides  the 
same  in  most  canoes.  To  allow  for  this  bevel,  moulds  2,  4, 
and  perhaps  6  must  be  sawed  out  ^in.  larger  than  the  marks 
show.  The  bevels  at  the  deck  height  and  on  each  diagonal 
are  now  taken  from  the  drawing  with  a  common  carpenter's 
bevel,  applied  in  turn  to  each  of  the  above  points,  and  the 
edges  of  the  mould  are  trimmed  accordingly. 

To  complete  the  mould,  a  notch  K  must  be  cut  at  the 
bottom  to  admit  that  portion  of  the  keel  or  keelson  inside  of 
the  rabbet,  as  will  be  explained  later. 

Besides  the  moulds  described  there  will  be  required  a  stem 
mould  (Fig.  6)  giving  the  outline  of  the  stem,  a  rabbet  mould 
made  to  the  rabbet  line  (if  the  stern  is  curved  similar  moulds 
will  be  required  for  it)  and  a  beam  mould,  showing  the  curve 
and  depth  of  the  def  k  beams.  These  should  be  made  of  Jin. 
pine.     They  are  taken  off  by  either  of  the  above  methods. 

The  tendency  of  light  boats  is  to  spread  in  width  in  build- 
ing, to  avoid  which  in  a  canoe,  where  a  small  excess  of  beam 
may  bar  the  boat  from  her  class  in  racing,  the  model  and  all 
the  drawings  are  sometimes  made  about  one  inch  narrower 
amidbhips  than  the  desired  beam  of  the  canoe,  and  the  sides 
are  allowed  to  spread  when  the  deck  beams  are  put  in,  if 
they  have  not  done  sc  previously,  as  ofter  happens  unleai 
great  care  is  taken. 


METHODS    OF    BUILDING. 


Wf  HILE  but  few  of  the  many  different  methods  of  building 
'  *  are  adapted  to  the  purpose  of  the  amateur,  a  descrip 
tion  of  the  principal  ones  will  enable  him  to  understand  the 
entire  subject  more  clearly.  Of  these,  two  are  by  far  the  most 
common,  the  carvel,  and  the  lapstreak,  also  called  chnker  or 
clincher.  In  the  first,  usually  employed  for  ships'  boats, 
yawls,  Whitehall  and  other  boats,  where  lightness  is  not  of 
first  importance,  the  planks  (six  to  eight  on  each  side)  are 
laid  edge  to  edge,  not  overlapping,  and  nailed  to  the  ribs  or 
timbers  that  make  the  frame,  the  latter  being  spaced  from 
nine  to  fifteen  inches  apart.  To  prevent  leakage,  a  small 
thread  of  raw  cotton,  lamp  wick,  or  in  large  boats,  oakum, 
is  driven  into  the  seams  with  a  mallet  and  caulking  chisel, 
and  the  seams  afterward  filled  with  putty,  marine  glue,  or  if 
oakum  is  used,  with  pitch.  To  stand  the  strain  of  caulking 
and  to  hold  the  cotton,  the  planks  must  be  at  least  fin. 
thick,  which  would  be  too  heavy  for  a  canoe 

In  a  lapstreak  boat  the  planks  lap  over  each  other  a  dis- 
tance of  one-half  to  one  inch,  the  edges  being  held  together 
by  rivets,  some  of  these  also  passing  through  the  ribs.  In 
all  cases  the  upper  board  laps  on  the  outside  of  the  one  be- 
low it.  Three  objectious  are  made  to  this  mode  of  building — 
liability  to  leakage,  difficulty  of  cleaning  inside,  and  the  ob- 
struction that  the  laps  offer  to  the  water. 

As  to  the  first,  it  is  almost  entirely  dependent  on  the  skill 
and  care  used  in  the  construction,  and  although  a  lapstreak 
boat  may  sometimes  leak  when  first  put  in  the  water  after 
drying  out  for  a  long  time,  it  will  very  soon  be  perfectly 
tight.  "While  the  second  point  is  an  objection,  it  is  by  no 
means  a  serious  one,  and  with  a  little  care  the  boat  may  be 


28  METHODS  OF  BUILDING. 

feept  perfectly  clean,  if  not,  a  stream  of  water  from  a  hose 
will  wash  out  all  dirt.  The  third  point  is  the  one  most  em- 
phasized by  the  opponents  of  the  lapstreak,  but  they  over- 
look the  fact  that  the  laps,  or  lands,  as  they  are  usually 
called  in  England,  are  very  nearly  parallel,  not  with  the 
water  lines,  bat  with  the  course  of  the  water,  which  is  largely 
down  and  under  the  boat.  At  the  ends  the  lands  are  dimin- 
ished to  nothing,  if  the  boat  is  properly  built,  and  that  they 
detract  nothing  from  the  speed  is  well  proved  by  the  fact 
that  a  very  large  majority  of  all  canoe  races  have  been  won 
by  lapstreak  boats. 

As  to  their  advantages,  they  are  light,  easily  repaired 
when  damaged  and  they  will  stand  harder  and  rougher  usage 
than  any  other  boats  of  their  weight  without  injury.  The 
lands  on  the  bottom  protect  it  greatly  when  ashore,  and  if 
anything  they  add  slightly  to  the  initial  stability. 

The  oyster  skiffs  of  Staten  Island  Sound  and  Princess  Bay, 
boats  from  18  to  2oft.  long,  lapstreak,  of  fin.  plank,  are  con- 
sidered by  the  fishermen  to  be  stiffer  and  to  rise  more  quickly 
than  smooth-built  boats  of  the  same  model.  As  after  some 
experience  with  different  modes  of  building,  we  have  settled 
on  the  lapstreak  as  the  best  for  canoes,  and  the  easiest  for 
amateurs,  we  shall  later  on  describe  it  in  detail. 

In  order  to  obtain  a  smooth  skin,  canoes  are  sometimes 
carvel  built,  as  before  described,  but  of  Jin.  stuff,  and  as 
this  cannot  be  caulked,  a  strip  of  wood  about  Jin.  thick  and 
lin.  wide,  is  placed  on  the  inside  of  each  seam  between  the 
timbers,  the  edges  of  the  planks  being  nailed  to  it.  This  is 
called  the  "rib  and  batten"  plan,  and  is  largely  used  in  Canada. 

Another  and  similar  plan,  the  ribbon,  or  more  properly 
ribband  carvel  (not  "rib  and  carvel")  is  used  in  Massachu- 
setts and  ConnecticuL  for  whaleboats,  and  in  England  for 
canoes.  In  these  boats  the  ribbands  are  of  oak  or  ash,  IJx 
iin.,  slightly  rounded  on  the  back  and  as  long  as  the  boat. 
They  are  screwed  to  the  moulds,  when  the  latter  are  in  posi- 
tion, just  where  the  seams  of  the  planks  come,  and  as  each 
plank  is  laid  on,  its  edges  ari?  nailed  to  the  ribbands  for  their 
entire  kngth.     When  the  ribs  are  put    in  they  must  be 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  29 

"jogged"  or  notched  over  the  ribbands.  In  both  of  these 
methods  the  boat  is  improved  if  a  strip  of  varnished  or 
painted  muslin  is  laid  along  the  seam,  under  the  ribband, 
but  this  is  often  difficult  to  do.  In  a  similar  way  the  boats  of 
the  yacht  Triton  arc  smooth  built,  with  a  strip  of  brass  inside 
each  seam  instead  of  a  ribband  of  wood.  While  having  a 
very  fine  surface  these  boats  are  usually  not  as  tight  as  the 
lapstreak,  and  are  more  easily  damaged. 

In  another  method  sometimes  employed  for  canoes,  the 
skin  is  double,  the  boat  being  first  planked  with  ^in.  boards 
and  then  with  a  second  layer,  crossing  the  inner  one.  The 
first  layer  sometimes  is  laid  diagonally,  sloping  aft  from  bow 
to  stern  with  the  second  layer  sloping  the  other  way,  so  as 
to  cross  it  nearly  at  right  angles;  a  method  used  in  U.  S. 
Navy  launches  and  Ufeboats. 

Sometimes  the  inner  skin  runs  across  the  boat,  and  the 
outer  fore  and  aft,  as  in  the  well-known  "Herald"  cAnoes, 
and  sometimes  both  run  fore  and  aft,  the  seams  of  one  skin 
coming  in  the  centers  of  the  planks  of  the  other,  rivets  being 
placed  along  all  the  edges,  a  method  of  building  followed 
also  in  some  of  our  largest  cutter  yachts. 

With  either  of  these  methods  a  thickness  of  muslin  is  laid 
in  paint  between  the  two  skins,  and  both  are  well  nailed 
together.  While  making  a  very  strong  boat,  it  is  often 
heavy,  and  when  water  once  penetrates  between  the  skins, 
as  it  will  in  time  (with  the  thin  plank  used  in  boat  building), 
the  leaks  cannot  be  stopped,  and  the  wood  will  soon  rot. 
Another  serious  objection  to  it  is  the  great  difficulty  of 
making  repairs. 

Boats  and  canoes  are  sometimes  built  of  tin,  copper  or 
galvanized  iron,  soldered  and  riveted  together,  a  method 
usually  confined  to  ships'  boats  and  lifeboats  Two  tin 
canoes  were  present  at  the  first  meet  in  1880,  and  seemed 
strong,  light  and  serviceable,  though  of  poor  shape.  No 
doubt  an  excellent  canoe  could  be  built  of  sheet  copper,  that 
would  not  leak,  and  would  be  indestructible;  but  the  cost 
and  weight  would  be  considerable. 

In  order  to  obtain  a  smooth  skin  with  the  advantage  of  the 


80  METHODS  OF  BUILDING. 

lapstreak,  the  planks  are  sometimes  rabbeted  on  their  ad- 
joining edges,  half  the  thickness  being  taken  from  each 
plank,  leaving  smooth  surfaces,  inside  and  out,  but  thicker 
plank  must  be  used  than  in  the  lapstreak,  and  the  working 
is  more  diffii;ult.  In  another  mode  the  planking  is  in  narrow 
strips,  perhaps  Ixf  in.  One  of  these  is  laid  in  place  and 
nailed  through  from  edge  to  edge,  into  the  keel,  then  another 
is  laid  alongside  of  it  and  nailed  to  it,  and  so  in  succession 
until  the  boat  is  completed.  A  few  frames  are  needed  to 
stiffen  the  boat  near  the  masts. 

In  the  boats  made  by  the  Ontario  Boat  Company  these 
strips  are  tongued  and  grooved,  then  steamed  and  forced 
together,  the  strips  in  some  boats  running  fore  and  aft,  and 
in  others  running  around  the  boat,  from  gunwale  to  gun- 
wale. In  shell  boats,  where  a  very  fine  surface  is  of  much 
greater  importance  than  in  canoes,  the  skin  is  made  of  Span- 
ish cedar,  about  ^in.  thick,  laid  in  four  or  six  pieces,  join- 
ing on  the  keel,  and  once  or  twice  in  the  length  of  the  boat, 
making  one  longitudinal  seam  and  one  or  two  transverse 
ones;  but  this  method  is  not  strong  enough  for  canoes. 

Paper  has  been  used  for  the  past  thirteen  years  as  a  ma- 
terial for  canoes,  but  although  the  boats  are  strong,  tight, 
and  but  little  heavier  than  the  lapstreak,  they  have  not 
become  popular,  and  are  but  little  used.  The  process  of 
construction  is  patented,  and  requires  both  tools  and  expe- 
rience beyond  the  reach  of  the  amateur.  Canoes  have  been 
built  during  the  last  five  years  on  a  similar  system,  using 
thin  veneer  in  three  thicknesses  instead  of  paper,  but,  besides 
their  great  weight,  no  glue  or  cement  can  be  depended  on 
when  long  immersed  i  n  water ;  they  are  open  to  the  same  objec- 
tions as  all  double-skinned  boats,  it  is  only  a  matter  of  time 
before  leakage  begins,  after  which  they  are  practically  ruined. 
One  of  the  oldest  modes  of  boat  building  was  to  make  a 
frame  of  wickerwork  or  similar  material,  covering  it  with 
leather,  a  method  still  followed,  except  that  canvas  is  sub- 
stituted for  the  leather.  This  mode  of  building  is  perhaps 
the  easiest  of  all  for  the  amateur,  and  we  shall  devote  a  cbaj> 
ter  specially  to  it  further  on. 


TOOLS    AND    MATERIALS. 


In  small  boats,  where  lightness  and  strength  are  of  first 
importance,  it  is  necessary  that  the  material  should  be  very 
carefully  selected,  both  as  to  quality  and  as  to  the  fitness  of 
each  kind  for  the  required  purpose.  Beginning  with  the 
keel,  the  best  wood  is  white  oak,  with  a  clear,  straight  grain. 
In  planing  it  will  be  found  that  the  grain  of  the  wood  in 
one  direction  spUnters  and  roughs  up,  while  in  the  other  it 
lies  smooth  and  the  keel  should  be  so  placed  in  the  boat 
that  the  splinters  or  rough  ends  point  aft,  otherwise  it  will 
be  torn  in  dragging  over  rocks  and  rough  ground.  In  looking 
at  the  end  of  the  wood,  a  series  of  concentric  layers  will 
be  noticed.  The  piece  should,  if  possible,  be  placed  in  such 
a  posiiion  that  the  nails  in  it  will  pass  through  the  layers, 
and  not  between  two  of  them,  for  instance,  in  a  keel  the 
nails  will  be  mostly  vertical,  so  the  layers  of  the  wood  should 
lie  horizontally,  abd  the  same  is  true  of  the  ribs,  the  nails 
through  them  being  at  right  angles  to  the  length  of  the 
boat,  and  the  layers  in  each  rib  running  fore  and  aft,  thus 
avoiding  any  liability  to  split.  Next  to  oak,  either  ash  or 
yellow  pine  will  make  a  good  keel,  but  hickory  should  never 
be  used  in  a  boat,  as  it  decays  rapidly. 

For  the  stem  and  stern,  which  are  usually  curved,  the 
best  material  by  far  is  hackmatack,  or  as  it  is  sometimes 
called,  tamarack,  wiiich  may  be  had  in  knees  of  almost  any 
curvature,  from  three  to  ten  inches  thick,  or  larger  Forcanoes 
a  three-inch  knee  is  the  best,  as  if  of  full  thickness  it  may  be 
sawn  into  three  slabs,  each  of  which  will  make  a  stem  and 
stern.  Oak  knees  are  also  used,  and  are  very  good,  but 
heavier  If  knees  cannot  be  had,  the  stem  and  stern  may  be 
cut  out  of  straight  plank. 


33  TOOLS  AND  MATERIALS. 

For  the  sides  of  a  centerboard  trunk,  clear,  dry  white  pine 
is  good,  but  mahoorany  is  better,  though  much  more  costly. 
The  timbers  or  ribs  are  usually  of  oak,  though  elm  is  excel- 
lent for  this  purpose.  The  wood  must  be  clear  and  of  the 
best  quality  in  order  to  bend  easily.  The  best  oak  for  this 
purpose  is  found  in  the  shape  of  stave  timber  used  by  coopers 
for  the  staves  of  barrels.  Those  pieces  are  from  three  to 
five  feet  long,  and  about  two  by  five  inches  square,  one 
being  sufficient  for  an  ordinary  lapstreak  boat. 

For  planking,  the  very  best  material  is  white  cedar,  varie- 
ties of  which  are  found  along  the  entire  length  of  the  Atlantic 
seaboard.  It  is  usually  sold  in  boards  J,  1  and  IJin.  thick  for 
boat  work,  and  from  13  to  20  feet  long.  For  small  boats  it 
should  be  clear  from  sap  and  knots,  but  for  larger  work 
that  is  painted,  the  latter,  if  hard  and  sound,  do  not  matter 
much,  in  fact,  the  knotty  cedar  is  considered  tougher  and 
stronger  than  the  clear. 

Where  cedar  cannot  be  had,  white  pine  can  be  used  to 
advantage;  in  fact,  the  amateur  will  often  find  it  much  easier 
to  buy  pine  of  Jin.  already  planed  than  to  work  up  the 
thick  cedar  himself,  while  pine  is  not  so  apt  to  change  its 
shape  in  working,  a  source  of  much  trouble  with  cedar. 
Where  neither  of  these  can  be  had  spruce  may  be  used,  but 
it  is  inferior.  Mahogany  and  Spanish  cedar  make  excellent 
planking,  but  they  are  no  better  than  white  cedar  and  cost 
much  more.  Mo&t  of  the  English  books  on  canoeing  recom- 
mend oak  for  planking,  but  it  is  never  used  here,  being  too 
heavy. 

For  the  bulkheads,  floor  boards  and  inside  work  white 
pine  is  the  best;  for  decks,  rudder  and  upper  streak  of  plank- 
ing, mahogany,  and  for  deck  beams  and  carlings,  spruce. 
The  gunwale  may  be  of  spruce  or  pine,  or,  if  outside,  as 
will  be  shown,  of  mahogany,  oak  or  yellow  pine,  the 
coamings  of  the  cockpit  being  of  oak.  Paddles  and  spars 
are  made  either  of  white  pine  or  spruce,  the  latter  being 
stiflfer  and  stronger,  but  a  little  heavier. 

The  other  necessary  materials — nails,  screws,  metal  work, 
etc. — will  be  mentioned  in  detail  as  are  required. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  33 

The  excellence  of  amateur  work  depends  not,  as  many  im- 
agine, on  the  number  of  tools  at  band,  but  on  the  care 
and  perseverance  devoted  to  it.  The  best  work  maybe  done 
with  very  few  tools;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  it  can  be  done 
much  more  quickly  with  a  larger  number. 

If  the  amateur  desires  to  build  but  one  boat,  at  as  small  an 
outlay  for  tools  as  possible,  the  following  will  be  sufficient: 

Panel  saw,  161n.,  8  teeth  to  the  inch $1  00 

Rip  saw,  28in..  5  teeth  to  the  inch 2  00 

Compass  saw,  12in 40 

Jack  plane,  double  iron 1  00 

Smoothing  plane,  double  iron 85 

Thumb  plane 25 

Clawhammer 75 

Riveting  hammer 40 

Cutting  pliers,  Stubbs's  or  HoII'g 85e.  to  1  25 

Small  screwdriver 50 

Three  gimlets,  1-18,  %,  y^m  50 

Three  brad  awls 25 

Six-inch  try-square 35 

Spokeshave 50 

Marking  gauge 10 

Chisels,  ^.  1^,  tin 75 

Two  foot  rule  25 

Gouges,  J^lin..  inside  bevel 50 

Oilstone . .     1  00 

Compasses,  5in 40 

Four  iron  clamps,  4in 2  00 

Chalk  line  and  scratch  awl 25 

$15  25 
The  above  arc  about  the  prices  of  the  best  quality  tools, 
cheap  ones  not  being  worth  buying,  and  with  them  any  kind 
of  small  boat  can  be  built,  but  the  addition  of  the  following 
tools  will  save  some  time  and  trouble: 

Eight- inch  ratchet  brace $1  85 

Center  and  German  bits,  various  sizes  1  50 

Countersink 25 

Rabbet  plane 60 

Bead  plane,  one-quarter  inch 50 

Draw  knife,  nine-inch  wide  blade 1  50 

Screwdriver,  ten-inch  65 

Twenty-six -inch  hand  saw  (  Instead  of  sixteen-  (    1  75 

Eight-inch  back  saw  j'  inch  panel  saw (    1  10 


34  TOOLS  AND  MATERIALS. 

These  will  be  all  that  are  needed,  except  a  few  files,  and 
two  or  three  drills  to  fit  the  brace,  for  the  brasswork,  such 
as  the  stemband,  but  there  are  some  others  that  are  very  use- 
ful, though  by  no  means  indispensable,  as  follows: 

Two-foot  steel  square. 

Bench  axe. 

Expansion  bit,  seven-eighths  to  three-inch. 

Level. 

Convex  spokeshave,  for  oars  and  paddles. 

Mortise  gauge. 

Adze,  for  larger  boats. 

Small  hand-drill  stock  with  drills. 

Two  or  three  round  sole  planes  for  spars. 

Besides  these  tools  there  will  be  needed  a  block  of  iron 
called  a  "set,"  or  riveting  iron,  used  to  hold  against  the  head 
of  a  nail  in  riveting;  a  '  'burr  starter,"  which  is  a  piece  of  iron 
or  brass  rod  fin.  in  diameter  and  3in.  long,  with  a  small 
hole  in  one  end,  used  to  drive  the  burrs  on  to  the  nails,  and 
some  wooden  clamps,  shown  in  Fig.  7.  The  solid  ones  are 
sawed  out  of  oak,  6  to  Sin.  long  and  lin.  thick,  strengthened 
by  a  rivet  through  them.  The  others  are  of  the  same  size, 
but  in  two  pieces,  joined  by  a  bolt  or  rivet.  In  use  a 
wedge  is  driven  in  the  back,  closing  the  other  ends  of  the 
jaws. 

A  work  bench  of  some  kind  must  be  had,  the  simplest 
form  being  a  plank  Sin.  thick,  lOin.  wide,  and,  if  possible, 
several  feet  longer  than  the  intended  boat,  so  as  to  allow 
room  for  a  vise  on  one  end,  as  well  as  space  to  plane  up  long 
boards.  This  plank  should  be  securely  fastened  along  a 
wall,  2ft.  Sin.  above  the  floor  and  with  its  outer  edge  20in. 
from  the  wall,  the  space  at  the  back  being  filled  in  with  lin. 
boards,  making  a  bench  80in.  wide,  the  top  being  level  and 
smooth,  as  the  material  to  be  planed  on  it  will  be  very  thin. 
A  vise  of  some  kind  must  be  placed  near  the  left  hand  end, 
an  iron  one  being  the  best,  but  the  common  wooden  one  will 
answer,  and  is  much  cheaper. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  86 


fCA 


r        7\ 


(JXxi. 


^' 


FiQ.  7. 


»9  TOOLS  AND  MATERIALS. 

Fig.  8  shows  a  permanent  bench  fastened  to  the  wall.  The 
top  is  3in.  thick,  of  oak,  and  should  be  24in.  wide,  and  at 
least  10ft.  long,  a  piece  of  2in.  plank  being^  fastened  at  the 
right  hand  end  by  way  of  an  extension  for  planing  long 
stuff.  A  series  of  fin.  holes  about  3in.  apart  are  bored  in 
each  leg,  a  peg  being  inserted  in  one  of  them  to  support  long 
boards,  in  planing  the  edges.  A  bench  hook  (a)  is  placed 
near  the  vise;  the  bracket  (c)  is  cut  out  of  2in.  stuff  and  is 
bolted  to  the  bench,  being  used  to  support  spars,  paddles 
and  similar  pieces,  one  end  being  held  in  the  vise,  and  the 
other  resting  on  the  bracket. 

Drawers  are  provided  under  the  bench  for  tools,  nails, 
screws,  etc.  At  the  back  of  the  bench  an  upright  board  12in. 
wide,  carries  a  rack  for  the  chisels,  gouges,  gimlets  and 
small  tools,  above  it,  on  the  wall,  the  saws,  draw-knife, 
spokeshave,  brace,  etc.,  are  hung,  a  rack  for  the  small 
planes,  and  another  for  sandpaper  is  fastened,  also  small 
boxes  for  such  nails  and  screws  as  are  most  frequently  re- 
quired. 

Two  saw  horses  or  benches  are  also  necessary,  the  tops 
being  Sin.  thick.  Gin.  wide  and  3ft.  long,  and  the  legs 
2ft.  long.  Two  pins  of  hard  wood  lin.  in  diameter  are 
driven  tightly  into  holes  about  l^in.  apart  in  one  of  the 
benches.  When  not  in  use  they  are  driven  down  flush  with 
the  top,  but  in  slitting  long  boards,  they  are  drivea  up 
and  the  board  wedged  between  them. 

Another  useful  piece  of  furniture  is  a  stool  about  1ft.  x 
18in.  on  top  and  ISin.  high,  one-half  of  the  top  being  a  seat 
and  the  other  half,  the  right  hand  side,  making  a  tray  to 
hold  nails,  screws,  hammer,  pliers,  and  other  small  tools 
used  in  fastening  the  plank,  thus  avoiding  the  necessity 
of  stooping  over  the  work,  and  also  keeping  the  tools  off 
the  floor. 

A  framework  of  some  description  is  always  necessary  to 
support  the  boat  or  vessel  in  building.  If  a  ship  or  yacht, 
the  keel  is  laid  on  blocks  a  short  distance  apart,  but  in  boat 
work,  the  "stocks,"  as  they  are  called,  are  usually  a  plank 
set  on  edge,  at  such  a  height  above  the  floor  as  will  bring 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDlTfO.  37 


k-  •  •  ••„- 


? 

o 


^ 


■^ 


88 


TOOLS  AND  MATERIALS. 


the  boat  in  a  convenient  position  (Fig.  9).  The  piece  (a)  Is 
a  common  pine  or  spruce  board,  lin.  thlcli.  8  or  lOin,  wide 
and  13ft.  long,  the  upper  edge  being  cut  to  the  rocker  of  the 
keel,  as  taken  from  the  drawing.     This  board  is  supported 


on  three  les^s  and  securely  braced  in  all  directions,  the  top 
being  20in.  from  the  floor,  so  as  to  give  room  to  work  on  the 
garboards. 

Another  style  of  stocks  is  shown  in  Fig.  10,  a  table  being 
built  about  13ft.  long  and  30in.  wide,  somewhat  like  a  canoe 
in  breadth;  the  top,  which  is  20in.  from  the  floor,  is  per- 
fectly level.     A  line  is  drawn  down  the  center,  while  across 


Fig.  10. 


the  board;  battens,  lin.  wide  and  l^in.  deep,  are  nailed,  2ft. 
apart,  to  each  of  which  a  mould  is  screwed,  the  boat,  of 
course,  being  built  keel  upward. 

This  method  of  building  (similar  to  that  employed  for  shell 
boats)  is  the  easiest  and  best,  but  involves  more  labor  in  the 
construction  of  the  table  or  stocks ;  however,  if  several  boats 
are  to  be  built,  it  will  pay  to  make  a  strong  level  table,  as 
when  once  a  set  of  moulds  are  made  and  each  fitted  to  the 
Bcrew-holcs  in  its  respective  crosspiece,  they  may  be  set  in 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  39 

place  in  a  few  minutes  with  every  certainty  that  they  are 
correctly  placed,  and  that  they  must  remain  so,  while  the 
table  makes  a  convenient  place  to  lay  tools. 

Finally  a  steam  box  of  some  kind  is  necessary,  its  size  de- 
pending on  the  work  to  be  done.  Usually  all  the  steaming 
required  for  a  canoe  is  the  timbers,  perhaps  \  or  i^'in.  thick, 
which  may  be  done  with  care  in  a  trough  of  boiling  water, 
but  if  anything  larger  is  to  be  bent,  akettle,  holding  a  couple 
of  pails  of  water,  should  be  arranged  over  a  stove,  or  roughly 
bricked  in  if  out  of  doors,  a  top  of  2in.  plank  being  fitted 
closely  to  it  with  a  pipe  leading  from  the  top  to  the  steam- 
box,  which  is  of  1\  or  even  lin.  boards,  and  may  be  3x6in. 
inside  and  7ft.  long,  supported  on  trestles  or  legs  near  the 
kettle,  and  fitted  on  one  end  with  a  hinged  door  to  close 
tightly,  or  the  end  may  be  closed  with  a  bundle  of  rags. 

(See  Plate  XV.  and  page  119.) 


BUILDING. 

rpHE  drawing  of  the  boat  being  completed,  the  moulds 
J-  made  from  it  and  the  bench  and  stocks  being  ready  as 
previously  described,  the  first  step  in  the  actual  work  of 
building,  is  the  shaping  of  the  keel  If  the  boat  has  no 
centerboard  trunk,  the  keel  is  made  of  the  same  siding  or 
thickness  as  the  stem  and  slern,  for  its  entire  length,  its 
depth  below  the  rabbet  being  taken  from  the  drawing  and 
iin. ,  the  thickness  of  the  plank,  added.  The  keel  may  be 
made  IJin.  deep,  the  extra  depth,  if  more  is  required,  being 
made  up  by  a  false  keel  screwed  to  it,  which  may  be  re- 
moved for  shoal  water,  as  shown  in  Fig.  11.  In  selecting 
the  wood  for  the  keel  and  keel  batten,  the  layers  should  lie 
horizontally,  as  shown. 

If  for  a  centerboard,  either  of  the  usual  form,  or  one  of  the 
patented  varieties  requiring  a  trunk,  a  flat  keel  must  be  used 
as  shown  in  the  plate,  wliich  represents  the  cross  section  of  a 
flat  keel  and  centerboard  trunk.  The  width,  for  the  length 
of  the  trunk,  will  be  S^in.  on  top,  tapering  to  the  size  of  the 
stem  and  stern  at  its  ends,  the  depth  or  thickness  of  the 
keel  being  uniform,  fin.  to  lin.  throughout  its  length. 

With  the  edge  keel,  a  keel  batten  is  necessary,  as  shown  in 
the  cross  section.  This  will  be  Jin.  thick,  and  lin.  wider 
than  the  keel,  to  which  it  is  nailed,  thus  overlapping  the 
latter  ^in.  on  each  side,  forming  a  rabbet  for  the  garbnards. 
If  the  flat  keel  is  used,  the  rabbet  is  cut  directly  on  the  keel. 

The  stem  is  next  sawed  out  from  a  hackmatack  knee,  and 
planed  up  ^  or  lin.  thick,  for  an  ordinary  canoe,  and  the 
fore  edge,  rabbet  and  bearding  lines  marked  on  it,  using  the 
moulds  made  for  each. 

The  rabbet  line  of  a  boat,  marked  a  in  the  drawing,  is  the 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  41 

L      /        /■      / 


Fio.  11. 


42  BUILDING. 

line  where  the  outer  surface  of  the  sliin  or  planking  joins  the 
surface  of  the  stem,  stem,  and  keel;  the  inner  or  back  rabbet, 
b,  sliown  by  the  dotted  line,  is  the  line  along  which  the  inner 
'  side  of  the  plank  joins  the  lower  edge  or  ends  of  the  same, 
and  the  bearding  line,  c,  shown  by  a  broken  line,  is  where 
the  inner  surface  of  the  skin  joins  the  deadwoods,  keel,  stem 
and  stern.  The  back  rabbet  is  found  by  squaring  in  from 
the  rabbet  line,  a  distance  equal  to  the  thickness  of  the 
plank. 

After  the  rabbet  and  bearding  lines  are  laid  off,  the  rabbet 
is  cut,  a  piece  of  wood  ^in.  thick  and  several  inches  long 
being  used,  applied  to  the  rabbet  as  the  cutting  progresses 
to  test  its  depth  and  shape.  The  rabbet  is  not  cut  quite  to 
its  full  depth  at  present. 

The  sternpost  in  most  canoes  is  made  of  a  knee,  the  rabbet 
being  curved  as  at  the  bow  (see  drawing  of  the  Dot),  but 
there  is  no  good  reason  for  so  doing,  unless  the  rake  of  the 
sternpost  is  excessive,  as  is  now  seldom  the  case,  and  a  better 
plan  is  to  make  the  sternpost  of  a  straight  piece,  as  shown, 
the  rabbet  forming  a  right  angle  or  a  little  more,  at  the 
junction  of  keel  and  post.  This  piece  is  planed  up,  the  rab 
bet  marked  and  cut,  as  in  the  stem,  and  fastened  to  the 
keel  by  a  2iin.  screw  passing  up  into  it,  as  shown,  and 
further  secured  by  a  chock  of  oak  nailed  or  screwed  in  the 
angle. 

To  fasten  stem  and  keel  together,  a  scarf  is  cut  of  tlie  shape 
shown  in  the  drawing,  about  Sin.  long,  copper  nails  being 
driven  through  the  keel  and  stem,  and  rivetted  over  burrs  on 
the  top  of  the  former.  The  keel  batten  is  now  nailed  on  top 
of  keel,  butting  against  the  stem  forward  and  the  chock  aft. 
The  bearding  line  is  drawn  in  where  it  has  been  omitted 
across  the  scarf  forward  and  chock  aft,  and  the  rabbet 
trimmed  at  these  points  and  the  frame  laid  on  the  large 
drawing,  from  which  the  water  line  is  marked  on  stem  and 
stern,  and  the  positions  of  moulds,  bulkheads,  mast  steps, 
trunk,  etc.,  on  both  top  and  bottom  of  keel. 

If  a  centerboard  trunk  is  required,  it  must  be  put  in  now ; 
being  constructed  as  shown  by  the  sectional  views.     The 


AMATEUM  CANOE  BUILDING.  43 

head  ledges,  forming  the  ends  of  the  trunk,  are  of  oak,  l^in. 
wide  and  as  thick  as  the  slot  or  opening,  fin.  for  a  thin  iron 
board,  and  f  to  lin.  for  a  heavy  iron  or  a  wooden  one.  The 
slot  is  tirst  cut,  l^in.  longer  at  each  end  than  the  required 
opening,  then  a  groove,  i'm.  wide  and  deep,  is  ploughed  on 
each  side  of  it  for  its  entire  length. 

The  head  ledges  are  now  fitted  in  place,  projecting  over 
the  keel  Jin.  fore  and  aft,  to  allow  for  caulking,  and  fast- 
ened by  a  copper  rivet  through  the  keel  and  lower  end  of 
each  to  keep  the  keel  from  splitting.  The  sides  of  the  case, 
of  dry  pine,  are  fin.  thick  on  the  lower  edges,  each  of  which 
has  a  tongue  on  it  to  fit  the  grooves  in  keel,  and  fin.  ou 
upper  edges.  A  thread  of  cotton  lamp  wick  is  laid  in  the 
grooves,  the  inner  surface  of  the  sides,  as  well  as  their  lower 
edges,  the  keel  and  the  head  ledges  are  well  painted,  and 
they  are  put  in  place  and  driven  into  the  grooves.  Before 
the  p.'iint  is  hard  the  sides  are  rivetted  to  the  head  ledges 
with  2in.  copper  nails,  and  brass  screws  3Jin.  long,  spaced 
6in.  apart,  are  put  through  the  keel  up  into  the  sides,  the 
holes  for  them  being  very  carefully  bored  and  countersunk 
into  the  keel.  If  the  board  is  hung  on  a  bolt,  the  hole  for  it 
mast  now  be  bored,   as  it  cannot  be  done  later. 

The  moulds  must  now  be  fitted  to  their  places,  a  small 
piece  being  cut  out  of  each  to  admit  that  part  of  the  keel  and 
keelson  inside  of  the  bsarding  line,  after  which,  if  the 
boat  is  to  be  built  with  tlie  keel  down,  the  frame  is  placed 
in  position  on  the  stocks,  secured  by  a  few  nails  driven 
through  the  keel  into  the  latter  (which  will  be  drawn  and 
the  holes  plugged  when  the  boat  is  ready  to  turn  over),  the 
stem  and  stern  are  plumbed  with  a  plumb-line  and  fastened 
by  shores  from  the  floor  or  roof,  the  moulds  put  in  position, 
adjusted  by  a  center  line  from  stem  to  stern,  and  also  shored 
firmly. 

If  the  latter  method  of  building  is  followed,  the  moulds 
are  screwed  to  the  table,  the  frame  laid  on  them  and  all 
firmly  shored  from  floor  to  ceiling.  Now  a  ribband  one-half 
inch  square  is  nailed  along  on  each  side,  at  the  height  of  the 
deck,  beine  fastened  to  the  stem,  stern  and  the  moulds,  and 


44  BUlLDlNa. 

the  positions  of  the  bulkheads  and  ribs  are  squared  up  oi 
down  on  to  them. 

To  prevent  any  leakage  through  the  scarfs,  stopwaters  are 
next  put  in.  These  are  small  plugs  of  dry  pine,  the  holes  for 
"which  are  bored  where  the  seam  or  joint  crosses  the  rabbet. 
They  should  be  bored  between  the  inner  and  outer  rabbet 
lines,  Fig.  12,  so  as  to  be  covered  by  the  caulking,  if  in  a 
large  boat,  or  by  the  edge  of  the  plank  where  the  seam  is  not 
caulked,  as  in  a  canoe.  This  should  be  done  at  all  scarfs, 
or  where  water  is  liable  to  follow  a  seam. 


Fig.   12. 

The  rabbet  is  now  completed  by  trimming  it  out  with  a 
sharp  chisel,  using  as  a  guide,  a  strip  Ixi^in.  and  long 
enough  to  cross  at  least  two  moulds.  This  is  held  down 
across  the  moulds,  one  end  being  applied  to  the  rabbet,  and 
the  wood  cut  away  until  the  surface  of  the  strip  and  the  out- 
side of  stem  and  stern  coincide. 

The  positions  of  the  ribs  are  now  laid  ofiE,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
13,  which  represents  the  fore  end  of  a  canoe,  set  up  on  a 
building  table  or  bench.  The  distance  apart  of  the  ribs  will 
be  5in..  with  an  intermediate  rivet  through  each  lap  between 
every  pair  of  timbers  Beginning  at  station  7  the  spaces  oi 
5in.  are  laid  off  toward  bow  and  stern  to  within  a  foot  o) 
each  end,  and  marked  on  top  and  bottom  of  keel  so  as  to  b> 
seen  from  inside  or  outside  when  the  plank  is  on,  and  alsi 
squared  down  on  the  ribband 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  45 

Perhaps  the  most  difficult  part  of  boat  building,  certainly 
the  most  difficult  to  make  plain  to  a  novice,  is  the  planking. 
In  order  to  obtain  both  strength  and  durability,  each  piece 
must  be  put  on  in  sach  a  way  that  it  will  bring  no  strain  on 
any  one  part,  and  will  not  itself  be  forced  into  an  unnatural 
shape,  to  attain  which  ends,  though  it  may  be  bent  or 
twisted,  it  must  not  be  "sprung"  edgeways  or  in  the  direc- 
tion of  its  breadth,  or  it  can  never  be  made  to  fit  properly. 
Although  strakes  are  sometimes  "sprung  on"  by  experienced 
builders,  the  amateur  should  not  attempt  it,  as  the  chances 
are  that  the  framework  will  be  pulled  out  of  shape. 

Before  commencing  to  plank,  the  beginner  can  obtain  an 
idea  of  how  the  planks  must  lie  by  taking  a  piece  of  board 
as  long  as  the  boat,  4  or  Sin.  wide  and  Jin.  thick,  tacking  the 
middle  on  moulds  6  and  8  at  about  the  turn  of  the  bilge,  and 
then  bending  the  plank  until  it  lies  on  all  the  other  moulds, 
but  not  forcing  it  edgeways  to  or  from  the  keel.  The  ends 
of  course  will  come  up  higher  on  bow  and  stern  than  the 
middle,  and  if  the  piece  be  laid  in  a  similar  manner  along 
the  keel  they  will  also  be  higher.  The  garboard  streak,  or 
that  next  the  keel,  will  be  4  to  5in.  wide  in  most  canoes; 
then  marking  off  the  width  desired,  4iin.,  for  instance,  on 
moulds  6  and  8,  the  board  mentioned  above,  having  one 
straight  edge,  is  laid  over  the  moulds,  its  straight  edge  4iin. 
from  the  keel  and  the  ends  bent  down  and  tacked  to  each 
mould  and  the  stem  and  stern,  and  a  mark  is  made  where 
the  board  crosses,  showing  the  position  of  the  upper  edge  of 
the  garboard.  By  upper  edge  is  meant  the  edge  nearest  the 
gunwale,  in  all  cases,  whether  the  boat  is  built  keel  up  or 
otherwise.  With  some  models  it  will  be  better  to  vary 
somewhat  from  this  line,  of  which  the  builder  must  judge 
for  himself,  according  to  the  circumstances  of  the  case. 

Next,  to  lay  off  the  upper  streak,  we  will  take  a  width  of 
3|^in.  at  midships,  3iu.  at  bow  and  Ifin.  at  stern,  marking 
off  these  distances  (Fig.  13)  from  the  upper  edge  of  the 
streak  already  marked  by  a  ribband,  and  putting  a  similar 
ribband  through  these  three  points,  bending  it  fair  and  mark- 
ing where  it  crosses  each  mould.     There  should  be  six 


46  BUILDING. 

streaks  on  each  side,  so  thore  still  remain  four  to  be  laid  off; 
to  do  whicli,  the  distance  from  the  lower  edge  of  the  upper 
streak  to  the  upper  edge  of  the  garboard  on  bow,  stern  and 
each  mould  is  divided  into  four  equal  parts,  making  the 
planks  ail  the  same  width  on  any  given  mould,  though  of 
course  the  widths  on  one  mould  differ  from  those  on  another, 
as  the  planks  taper  toward  the  ends,  the  girths  at  bow  and 
stern  being  much  less  than  arcidships. 

The  planks  being  laid  off.  the  next  operation  is  to  get  the 
shape  of  the  garboard,  to  do  which  a  "staff"  is  necessary. 
This  is  a  piece  of  board  four  or  five  inches  wide,  one-quarter 
inch  thick,  and  as  long  as  the  boat,  several,  having  more  or 
less  curvature,  being  necessary  for  the  different  strakes.  For 
accurate  work,  especially  where  there  is  no  help  at  hand,  it 
is  best  to  have  two  short  pieces,  each  about  one  foot  longer 
than  half  the  boat's  length.  One  of  these  pieces  is  cut  roughly 
to  the  shape  of  the  forward  rabbet  and  fastened  in  place 
with  a  screw  clamp,  or  a  small  piece  of  wood  with  a  nail 
through  it  called  a  hutchock  (I)  Fig.  13.  It  is  then  bent 
carefully  over  the  moulds  as  far  as  it  will  reach,  and  fast- 
ened to  each  with  a  hutchock.  The  staff  should  be  of  uni- 
form thickness  and  quality  so  as  to  bend  fairly,  and  is  best 
cut  so  as  to  lie  in  the  rabbet,  though  it  need  not  fit  closely. 
A  similar  piece  is  now  fitted  aft,  lapping  so'ne  two  feet  over 
the  former,  and  the  two  are  nailed  firmly  together,  so  as  to 
preserve  their  relative  positions  when  removed  from  the 
moulds.  As  the  fitting  of  the  garboard  depends  mainly  on 
the  manner  in  which  the  spiling  is  taken,  great  care  is 
needed  to  prevent  the  staff  springing  or  buckling  in  applying 
it. 

When  it  is  properly  adjusted  a  series  of  marks  are  made 
with  the  rxxle  and  pencil  on  the  rabbet  line  on  the  frame,  and 
also  across  the  staff,  about  two  inches  apart  where  the  line 
is  curved,  as  at  the  stem,  and  four  inches  where  it  is 
straighter  along  the  keel.  These  marks  are  to  insure  the 
compasses  being  set  at  the  same  points  in  taking  the  spiling, 
and  in  transferring  from  the  staff  to  the  plank  afterward,  as 
will  be  understood  later. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  Al 


48  BUILDING. 

Now,  with  the  compasses  set  to  any  convenient  distance, 
usually  from  two  to  three  inches,  a  circle  is  first  swept  on  the 
staff,  to  reset  them  by  if  accidentally  changed ;  then  one 
point  is  applied  to  a  mark  on  the  rabbet  line,  as  at  n,  and, 
with  the  other,  a  prick  mark  is  made  on  the  same  line,  at  o 
on  the  staff.  The  compasses  are  applied  in  succession  to 
each  of  the  other  points  on  the  rabbet  line  and  marks  made 
on  the  staff,  one  line  on  the  stem  marked  X  X  («»  m)  being 
called  a  sirmark,  by  which  the  plank  is  finally  adjusted. 

Before  removing  the  staff  from  the  moulds  the  position 
of  each  mould  must  be  marked  on  it,  as  the  breadths 
will  be  laid  off  afterward  at  each  mould. 

A  board  is  now  selected  free  from  knots,  sap  or  checks 
for  the  garboard.  If  it  can  be  had  planed  to  the  thickness, 
Jin.,  much  trouble  will  be  avoided,  but  where  this  is  not 
possible,  a  board  f  or  lin.  thick  is  planed  smooth  on  both 
sides,  the  staff  is  taken  carefully  from  the  moulds,  laid  on 
it  and  held  by  a  few  tacks,  then  with  the  compasses  still  set 
to  the  same  distance,  the  measurements  are  reversed,  placing 
a  point  of  the  compasses  on  the  marks  on  the  staff,  and 
measuring  out  on  the  board.  Tliis  operation,  if  accurately 
performed,  will  give  the  exact  shape  of  the  lower  edge  of 
the  garboard. 

The  sirmaik  is  now  transferred  to  the  board,  and  also  the 
position  of  the  moulds,  after  which  the  staff  is  removed  and 
a  batten  is  run  through  the  spots,  the  curves  on  the  ends 
being  drawn  in  with  the  rabbet  moulds.  To  lay  off  the 
upper  edge,  the  breadths  on  the  stem,  stern  and  each  mould, 
as  previously  marked  off,  are  taken  and  transferred  to  the 
respective  points  on  the  board,  an  extra  width  of  fin.  being 
added  for  tlie  lap,  and  a  line  drawn  through  them  with  a 
batten. 

Some  woods,  cedar  and  oak  especially,  will  spring  or 
change  their  shape  when  a  strip  is  sawed  off  one  edge,  and 
if  this  happens,  the  shape  may  be  so  altered  that  it  will  be 
very  difficult  to  make  the  plank  fit.  If  a  straight  line  is 
drawn  down  the  center  oi  the  board  before  sawing,  and 
then  tested  after  one  edge  is  sawn   to  shape,  it  will  show 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  49 

■whether  the  plank  has  sprung  at  all,  and  if  it  iias.  a  strip 
should  be  sawn  off  the  other  edge,  leaving  the  board  still  a 
little  wider  than  the  finished  strake  will  be,  and  then  the 
plank  should  be  laid  off  anew  from  the  staff,  as  in  the  first 
instance,  after  which  the  edges  may  be  planed  up,  with  little 
danger  of  further  springing. 

If  the  board  is  thick  enough  to  make  two  strakes,  gauge 
lines  are  now  run  around  the  edges  Jin.  from  each  side,  the 
piece  is  laid  on  the  saw  benches,  one  end  wedged  fast  be- 
tween the  two  upright  pieces  previously  mentioned,  and  it  is 
sawn  through,  using  the  rip  saw  held  nearly  vertical,  a  few 
inches  being  sawn  from  one  edge,  then  the  piece  being  turned 
over  and  sawn  for  a  short  distance  from  the  other  edge,  this 
process  being  repeated  until  the  sawing  is  finished,  as  the 
saw  will  certainly  run  if  used  entirely  from  one  side 

When  the  board  is  sawn  in  two.  the  pieces  are  each  planed 
to  thickness  on  tUe  inside,  after  which  the  edges  must  be 
beveled  to  fit  the  rabbet.  The  best  bevel  for  this  purpose  is 
made  of  two  pieces  of  wood  |in.  wide  and  l^in.  long,  one 
piece,  iin.  thick,  having  a  saw  cut  in  one  end,  in  which  the 
other  piece,  ^\\n.  thick,  is  slipped.  The  bevel  is  applied  to 
different  points  of  the  rabbet  about  6in.  apart  in  succession, 
and  the  ansrlee  transferred  to  the  respective  points  on  tlie 
strake,  after  which  the  entire  edge  is  planed  to  correspond  to 
these  spots. 

The  second  or  broad  strake  will,  of  course,  lap  over  the 
first,  but  at  the  ends  the  laps  must  diminish  until  the  surface 
of  both  planks  is  flush  with  the  stem  at  the  rabbet.  To 
secure  this  the  adjoining  surfaces  of  both  are  beveled  off, 
beginning  about  18iu  from  each  end  and  increasing  in  depth 
until  about  half  is  taken  from  each  piece  at  the  rabbet  of 
stem  and  sicrn.  This  may  be  done  with  a  rabbet  plane  or 
sharp  chisel.  The  lower  edge  of  the  hroad  strake  is  left 
/gin.  thick,  a  rabbet  being  cut  in  the  garboard  to  receive  it, 
but  the  upper  edge  of  the  garboard  is  simply  planed  to  a 
feather  edge.  Before  cutting  this  rabbet  the  width  of  ihe 
lap,  |in.,  should  be  marked  with  a  scratch  gauge  on  the 
outside  of  the  garboard  as  a  guide  for  setting  the  next  plank. 


50  BUILDING. 

Ail  bein.^  ready,  the  garboard  is  now  held  in  place,  with 
the  help  of  an  assistant,  each  part  of  it  being  tried  in  the 
rabbet,  to  test  the  accuracy  of  the  bevels.  In  doing  this, 
the  plank  is  not  put  in  place  for  its  entire  length  at  once,  but 
one  end  is  tried,  tiien  the  middle,  and  finally  the  other  end. 

The  fitting  being  complete,  the  fctopwatera  in,  and  the 
hole  bored  for  the  centerboard  bolt,  if  any;  the  garboard  ia 
fitted  in  place  on  the  fore  end,  adjasted  by  the  sirmark,  the 
after  part  being  held  -well  up  by  an  assistant,  and  one  or 
more  clamps  are  put  on  to  hold  it,  then  holes  are  bored  and 
countersunk  for  the  screws,  which  will  be  ^in.  No.  5  brass, 
and  the  garboard  is  screwed  fast  a-s  far  as  it  lies  in  place. 

In  fastening  such  light  plank,  great  care  is  needed  to  avoid 
splitting  it ;  the  pieces  must  be  in  contact  before  the  screw 
or  nail  is  put  in,  otherwise,  if  it  is  attempted  to  draw  them 
together  with  the  screws,  the  plank  will  usually  split.  Screws 
are  only  used  at  the  extreme  ends,  where  nails  cannot  be 
driven  through  and  riveted,  but  along  the  keel  the  latter  are 
put  in.  After  the  fore  end  is  fastened,  the  plank  is  laid  ia 
place  along  the  middle  of  the  boat  and  nailed,  every  other 
nail  being  omitted  to  be  put  in  after  the  timbers  are  in  place, 
after  which  the  stern  is  screwed  fast. 

If  the  operations  described  have  been  carried  out  correctly, 
the  garboard  should  fit  exactly  without  any  further  cutting, 
and  the  greatest  care  should  be  taken  to  do  so,  as  if  the  strake 
does  not  fit  at  first,  it  is  very  difficult  to  make  it  do  so  by 
cutting  it  afterward.  When  l)oth  garboards  are  on.  a  spiling 
is  taken  for  the  broad  strake;  it  is  got  out  and  put  on  in  a 
similar  manner,  the  staff,  however,  in  this  case  being  in  one 
length.  After  the  strake  is  in  place  and  screwed  at  the 
fore  end,  it  is  fastened  with  clamps,  and  the  positions  of  the 
nails,  omitting  all  that  will  pass  through  the  timbers,  are 
marked  off,  using  a  thin  batten  bent  around  the  boat,  from 
the  marks  on  the  keel  to  those  on  the  ribband,  to  insure 
the  rows  of  nails  being  straight. 

The  nails  for  this  work  are  of  copper,  f  or  lin.  long.  As 
the  holes  for  them  are  bored,  they  may  sometimes  refuse  to 
hold  at  first,  in  which  case  a  block  of  soft  wood,  Im.  square. 


AMATEUR  CANOt!  BUILDING.  51 

is  held  inside  tiie  scam  and  tbe  nail  driven  into  it,  the  block 
being  removed  before  riveting.  It  may  sometimes  be  neces- 
sary to  drive  a  nail  through  the  plank  into  a  mould,  using 
a  hutchock  to  hold  the  plank  down,  but  this  should  be 
avoided  if  possible,  as  the  hole  will  have  to  be  plugged  after- 
ward. 

To  recapitulate,  the  process  of  preparing  and  placing  a 
plank  is  as  follows:  First,  to  set  the  stall,  mark  it  and  take 
the  spiling  with  the  compasses,  mark  positions  of  moulds, 
plane  both  ^ides  of  board,  remove  staff,  place  it  on  board, 
nail  it,  spile  oft'  on  the  board,  mark  position  of  moulds  on 
latter,  remove  staff,  mark  line  of  lower  edge  through  tbe 
spots,  lay  off  breadths  at  each  mould  on  plank,  leaving  f 
extra  for  lap,  line  upper  edge  through  ttiese  spots,  saw  out, 
plane  up  edges  (if  a  thick  plank,  gauge  edges,  slit  and  plane 
insidcs),  bevel  edges,  gauge  upper  edge  on  outside  for  lap 
cut  rabbets  at  each  end  for  next  plank  (on  the  bilge  it  will  be 
necessary  to  bevel  the  upper  edge  of  plank  on  outside  for  its 
entire  length),  put  in  place,  clamp,  screw  fore  end  in  rabbet, 
nail  along  lap,  and  cut  and  screw  after  end. 

Where  there  is  a  quick  turn  to  tlie  bilge,  it  is  best  to  use 
^in.  stuff  for  each  plank,  hollowing  the  inside  with  a  plane, 
and  rounding  the  outside  to  fit  the  curve  of  the  moulds.  At 
the  ends,  where  the  laps  are  thinned  down,  tacks,  ^  and  fin. 
long,  are  ustd  instead  of  nails. 

The  planking  being  completed,  the  canoe,  if  built  with 
the  keel  up,  is  turned  over  on  the  stocks  and  shored  in  posi- 
tion, the  keel  being  blocked  to  the  proper  rocker,  then  the 
ribs  or  timbers  are  sawed  out  of  a  piece  of  stave  timber, 
|x:iin.,  the  upper  corners  are  rounded  off,  and  if  not  flexible 
enough  to  bend  easily,  they  are  put  in  the  &team  box  or  laid 
in  boiling  water. 

The  holes  for  the  nails  are  now  marked  off  by  means  of  a 
wide,  thin  batten,  which  is  bent  into  the  bottom  of  the  boat 
and  adjusted  to  the  mark  on  keel,  and  also  so  that  it  stands 
upiight;  then  a  mark  is  nitide  where  it  crosses  each  lap,  and 
a  hole  bored  in  the  middle  of  the  lap  with  a  i\in.  German 
bit.     When  all  the  holes  are  bored,  the  ribs  are  taken  one 


52  BUILDING. 

by  one,  bent  over  the  knee  and  pressed  dov/n  into  the  bot- 
tom of  the  boat ,  then  the  nails,  which  have  previously  been 
driven  liohtly  into  the  holes,  are  driven  up  through  the  tim- 
ber, using  a  set  to  hold  on  the  t<^>p  of  latter  alongside  of  the 
nail  as  it  comes  through.  The  lowest  nail  must  always  be 
driven  first,  then  the  others  in  succession  from  keel  to  gun- 
wale. 

As  many  ribs  as  possible  should  be  put  in  before  the 
moulds  are  removed,  those  alongside  of  the  bulklicads,  how- 
ever, being  omitted  entirely.  A  nail  must  be  put  through 
the  middle  of  the  garboard  and  broad  into  each  timber. 
After  all  are  in,  the  boat  is  kept  from  spreading  by  means 
of  cross  spaUs,  pieces  holding  the  gunwales  together,  and 
the  moulds  are  removed ;  the  blocks  are  then  pulled  off  the 
ends  of  the  nails,  and  ihe  riveting  up  begins. 

A  copper  burr  or  washer  is  slipped  over  a  nail  and  driven 
home  with  a  burr  starter,  an  attendant  outside  holding  the 
set  on  the  head  of  the  nad.  When  the  burr  is  on,  the  ena 
of  the  nail  is  cut  off  close  to  it,  and  the  projecting  part 
(about  iViD.)  is  headed  with  a  few  blows  from  a  light  rivet- 
ing hammer,  the  tacks  at  the  ends  merely  having  their  ends 
turned  down.  After  the  riveting  is  completed  the  gun- 
wales are  put  on. 

These  were  formerly  put  inside  the  boat,  being  jogged 
over  the  heads  of  the  timbers,  but  a  stronger  and  neater  plan 
is  to  put  them  outside,  making  them  of  a  hard  wood,  pref- 
erably mahogany.  The  deck  is  screwed  to  them,  and  they 
serve  also  as  chafing  battens,  protecting  the  sides.  They 
should  be  about  Ifin.  wide  at  middle,  1}  at  fore  and  1^  at 
after  ends,  and  fin.  thick.  A  rivet  is  put  through  the  stem 
and  both  fore  ends,  and  another  through  the  stem,  thus 
strengthening  what  was  formerly  one  of  the  weakest  points 
of  a  canoe.  Nails  are  also  driven  through  them  and  the 
upper  streak  and  the  head  of  each  timber  and  riveted, 
making  a  much  stiffer  side  than  the  old  method.  After  the 
gunwales  are  in,  the  cross  spalls  may  be  shifted  if  necessary 
until  the  curves  of  both  sides  of  the  boat  are  perfectly  fair 
and  symmetrical. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  53 

The  bulkhead  timbers  will  be  sawed  from  hackmatack 
knees  |in.  deep  and  ^in.  wide.  They  must,  be  fitted  accur. 
ately  to  place  in  order  to  make  a  water-tight  joint,  to  dc 
which,  a  piece  of  thin  board  is  cut  to  fit  closely,  the  timbers 
beinjj  marked  from  it.  After  the  timbers  are  fitted  as  tightly 
as  possible  by  this  means,  a  little  dark  paint  is  laid  on  where 
the  timber  will  come,  the  latter  is  put  in  plac2  and  pressed 
down,  with  a  slight  fore  and  aft  movement,  and  on  remov- 
ing it,  the  points  where  it  touches  will  be  marked  with  paint. 

These  are  cut  away  slightly,  the  piece  replaced,  and  the 
operation  repeated  until  the  paint  shows  on  the  entire  sur- 
face of  the  timber;  it  is  then  painted  with  thick  white  lead, 
pressed  into  place,  and  fastened  by  screws  or  nails  through, 
the  planks  at  each  lap  and  also  in  the  middle  of  each  strake, 
or  if  a  wide  strake,  with  two  nails. 

The  bulkheads  will  be  of  white  pine,  |in.  thick;  they  are 
placed  on  that  side  of  the  timbei-s  nearest  the  end  of  the 
boat,  and  are  riveted  to  them.  A  door  is  sometimes  cut 
in  the  bulkhead  to  give  access  to  the  compartment  in  place  of 
a  deck  hatch.  These  latter  are  to  be  avoided  if  possible,  as 
they  are  never  to  be  relied  on  as  water-tight,  and  being  ex- 
posed to  rain  and  waves,  are  apt  to  wet  all  below,  while  a 
door  in  the  bulkhead,  even  if  not  light,  is  only  exposed  to 
water  in  case  of  a  complete  capsize. 

It  is  still  customary  in  many  canors  to  place  the  floor 
boards  directly  on  the  timbers,  giving  a  little  more  space 
below  deck,  but  allowing  the  water  to  cover  the  floor  if 
there  is  the  least  leakage  or  a  wave  is  shipped.  A  letter 
plan,  shown  in  Plate  IV'.,  is  to  raise  the  floor  above  the 
garboards  from  1^  to2in.,  according  to  the  depth  of  the 
boat,  thus  giving  space  below  for  ballast  if  desired,  and  also 
keeping  crew  and  stores  dry,  even  though  there  is  consid 
erable  water  on  board. 

The  floor  is  carried  on  ledges,  z  z,  l^in.  deep  at  the  middle 
by  -fin.  wide,  fitted  closely  to  the  planking,  and  secured  by 
screws  through  the  Inps.  Small  limberholes  should  be  cut 
in  each  piece  to  permit  the  free  passage  of  water.  These 
pieces  also  serve  to  strcngtheu  the  bottom  of  the  canoe 


54  BUILDING. 

materially.  The  floor  boards,  n  n,  are  in  three  widths,  fin. 
thick,  of  pine,  the  side  pieces  being  screwed  to  the  ledges, 
while  the  middle  piece  can  be  lifted  out  to  stow  ballast 
below.  An  oval  hole  in  the  latter  piece,  about  under  the 
knees  of  the  crew,  holds  a  sponge  for  bailing.  The  deck 
beams— of  pine,  spruce  or  hackmatack— are  marked  out 
from  a  beam  mould,  which  is  made  from  the  large  drawing. 
The  amount  of  crown  to  be  given  to  the  deck  must  be 
decided  on  by  the  builder.  From  3  to  3|in.  is  not  too 
much  for  a  30-in.  boat,  as  the  space  below,  for  air  and  stow- 
age, is  much  greater  than  with  a  flat  deck ;  the  boat  will  free 
herself  from  a  wave  quicker,  and  there  is  nothing  to  be  said 
against  it.  Before  putting  in  the  deck  beams  the  timbers 
must  be  cut  off  level  with  the  gunwale,  and  the  latter  planed 
down  until  the  sheer  is  perfectly  fair  from  end  to  end,  the 
beam  mould  being  used  at  tlu  same  time  as  a  guide  by  which 
to  bevel  the  gunwah  s  to  suit  the  deck  beams.  The  latter 
are  spaced  about  as  shown  in  the  drawing,  being  fastened 
by  a  Sin.  brass  screw  through  gunwale  and  upper  streak 
into  each  end.  The  beams  will  be  lin.  deep  and  |in.  wide, 
except  the  partner  beam  that  supports  the  mainmast,  which, 
will  be  4in.  wide,  so  as  to  take  a  2iin.  hole  for  the  mast 
tube,  and  the  beams  under  the  butts  of  the  deck,  which  will 
be  l^in.  wide. 

Canoe  decks  are  sometimes  laid  in  but  two  pieces,  with 
one  seam  only,  down  the  center,  but  while  this  makes  a  very 
handsome  deck  it  is  necessary  to  take  off  the  entire  half 
deck  every  time  that  repairs  or  alterations  are  to  be  made. 
It  is  often  desirable  to  open  one  of  the  end  compartments, 
and  to  do  this  quickly  the  decks  are  now  very  often  laid  in 
six  or  more  pieces,  one  ioint  being  over  the  forward  bulk- 
head and  one  over  the  after  one.  At  these  points  the  beams 
are  made  l^in.  wide  and  but  fin.  deep,  each  piece  of  deck 
lapping  fin.  on  the  beam.  After  the  beams  are  in,  ridge 
pieces  are  fitted  down  the  center  of  the  deck  fore  and  aft 
of  the  well.  They  are  from  3  to  4in.  wide,  according  to 
the  size  of  the  masts,  and  |in.  thick,  being  halved  down  into 
the  deck  beams  and  bulkheads  and  nailed  to  them.     The 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  65 

holes  for  the  mast  tubes  are  now  bored,  the  steps  of  oak  are 
fitted  and  securely  screwed  or  riveted  to  the  keel  and  the 
mast  tubes  put  in  place.  These  arc  of  copper  or  brass,  the 
ends  soldered  up  so  that  they  are  perfectly  watertight.  The 
upper  ends  arc  slightly  flanged  over  the  ridge  pieces,  with  a 
little  lamp  wick  and  paint  under  the  flange  to  make  a  tight 
joint.  Plugs  are  sometimes  put  in  the  bulkheads  to  drain 
off  any  leakage,  and  the  holes  for  them  should  be  bored 
now,  as  low  down  as  possible.  The  frame  work  of  the  well 
consists  of  two  fore  and  aft  pieces  of  spruce,  v  v,  fxl^in. 
sprung  partly  to  the  shape  of  the  well,  the  ends  nailed  to 
the  deck  beams  and  bulkhead,  and  also  of  two  curved 
chocks,  r  r,  at  the  forward  end,  completing  the  pointed  form 
of  the  cockpit.  The  side  decks  are  also  supported  by  four 
knees,  y  y,  on  each  side,  sawn  from  oak  |in.  thick  and 
screwed  or  riveted  to  the  planking,  a  brass  screw  l1^in.  long 
passing  through  the  gunwale  into  each,  while  the  side 
pieces,  v  v,  are  screwed  to  the  inner  ends. 

Before  putting  in  the  coaming,  the  decks,  which  will  be 
of  iin.  mahogany  or  Spanish  cedar,  should  be  cut  and  fitted 
roughly  to  the  outline  of  the  well,  the  final  fitting  being  done 
after  the  coamings  are  in.  These  should  be  of  clear  tough 
white  oak,  :Jin.  thick.  Their  shape  is  taken  by  means  of  a 
thin  staff  sprung  into  the  well,  the  upper  and  lower  edges  of 
the  side  pieces  being  marked  on  it.  The  pointed  coamings 
now  generally  preferred  are  from  3  to  3^in.  high  forward, 
sloping  to  l^iu.  amidships  and  aft,  the  after  end  being  either 
round  or  square.  The  coamings  are  riveted  to  the  side  pieces 
and  the  after  piece  to  the  deck  beam  or  bulkhead,  a  piece  of 
■fin.  mahogany,  g,  being  fitted  in  the  angle  forward,  to 
strengthen  it,  and  also  to  hold  cleats  and  belaying  pins. 

The  other  fittmgs,  described  in  the  following  chapter,  such 
as  side  flaps,  footgear,  tabernacle,  etc.,  are  now  put  in,  then 
the  boat  is  turned  over  and  the  outside  smoothed  down,  using 
fine  sandpaper  and  a  file  on  the  uail  heads;  the  stem  band,  of 
i\in.  half-round  brass,  is  drilled  und  put  on,  the  rudder  braces 
are  fitted  and  riveted  fast,  and  sometimes  bilge  keels,  which 
are  strips  of  hard  oak  |in.  square  and  about  4ft.  long,  are 


56  BUILDING. 

screwed  to  the  bottom  about  over  the  second  lap,  protecting 
the  boat  in  haulin;?  up. 

The  outside  of  the  boat  aijd  the  inside  of  well  has  now  a 
coat  of  raw  linseed  oil,  and  the  inside  of  the  compartments, 
the  bottom,  under  the  floor,  and  the  deck  frame,  is  painted 
with  white  lead  and  oil,  sufBcient  black  being  added  to  make 
a  lead  color.  Now,  the  bulkheads  should  be  tested,  to  do 
which  the  boat  is  securely  blocked  up  a  short  distance  above 
the  floor,  and  each  bulkhead  in  turn  filled  with  water,  the 
leaks,  if  any,  being  carefully  noted  and  marked.  After  the 
ends  are  tested,  the  water  may  be  bailed  into  the  middle  of 
the  boat,  and  the  kaks  there  marked  also.  When  these  have 
been  made  tight,  the  decks  may  be  laid,  the  pieces  being 
first  fitted,  and  then  the  under  side  of  them  b?ing  painted, 
and  the  edges  of  the  gunwales,  ridge  pieces  and  bulkheads 
being  also  covered  with  thick  paint  or  varnish.  While  this 
is  fresh  the  pieces  of  deck  are  laid  in  place  and  fastened  with 
fin.  No.  5  brass  screws,  placed  Sin.  apart,  along  the  gun- 
wales, ridge  pieces,  deck  beams,  bulkheads  and  side  pieces 
of  the  well.  In  all  the  older  canoes  the  screw  heads  were 
countersunk  and  puttied  over,  but  it  is  customary  now  only 
to  screw  them  flush  with  the  wood,  allowing  the  head  to 
show.  If  puttied  over  it  is  difficult  to  remove  them,  and 
the  decks  will  be  more  or  less  defaced  in  clearing  out  the 
hard  putty  in  order  to  do  so. 

After  the  deck  is  on,  enough  quarter-round  beading  of 
mahogany  must  be  got  out  to  go  around  the  well,  and  also 
some  half-round,  to  cover  the  seam  down  the  center  of  the 
deck.  These  are  nailed  with  half-inch  brass  or  copper  nails. 
The  decks  are  next  oiled,  the  matt  plates,  cleats,  screw  eyes, 
and  other  fittings  screwed  fast,  the  rudder,  hatches,  etc. 
completed,  and  all  the  outside  of  hull  and  inside  of  the  well 
is  varnished  with  some  variety  of  wood  filler,  of  which  there 
are  several  in  the  market.  This  first  coat  is  merely  to  fill  the 
grain  of  the  wood,  and  has  no  polish  of  its  own.  After  it  is 
thoroughly  dry,  a  coat  of  spar  composition  should  be  given, 
and  allowed  full  time  to  dry  before  using  the  boat. 


CANOE    FITTINGS. 


Wf  HILE  the  first  requisite  ia  a  canoe  is  a  properly -de- 
*  '  signed  and  constructed  hull,  there  are  a  number  of 
minor  parts,  generally  summed  up  under  the  head  of  "Fit- 
tings," that  are  hardly  less  essential  to  safety,  comfort  and 
convenience,  and  which,  with  the  sails  and  rigging,  make  up 
a  complete  craft.  Perhaps  a  more  correct  term  for  these 
numerous  details  would  be  equipment,  but  the  word  fittings 
is  generally  used. 

THE  WELL. 

This  feature  distinguishes  the  modern  canoe  from  its  sav- 
age progenitors,  as,  excepting  the  kayak,  savage  canoes  are 
undecked,  and  its  shape  and  position  are  important  consid- 
erations. As  a  general  rule,  the  smaller  the  well,  the  better; 
as  less  water  can  get  below,  there  is  more  covered  stowage 
room,  and  the  boat  is  much  stronger;  but,  on  the  other  hand, 
there  must  be  an  opening  long  enough  to  permit  sleeping, 
storing  long  spars  below,  giving  access  to  hatches  below 
deck,  and,  on  occasion,  taking  a  companion.  The  wells  of 
the  early  Rob  Ro}s  were  elliptical,  20in.  wide  and  32  to 
36in.  long,  requiring  no  hatch,  the  coaming,  lin.  high 
above  deck,  bemg  bent  in  one  piece,  as  in  the  drawing. 
This  small  well,  resembling  that  of  the  kayak,  was  almost 
a  necessity,  as  the  boat  was  so  low  and  wet  in  rough 
water. 

A  step  in  advance  was  the  old  Nautilus  well,  which  was 
from  4ft.  Sin.  to  5ft  long,  and  20in.  wide,  a  length  of 
16'n.  being  shut  off  by  a  movable  bulkhead  just  abaft  the 


68  CANOE  FITTIXG8. 

crew's  back;  this  portion  being  ci>vered  by  a  movable  hatch, 
with  a  similar  hatch  at  the  forward  end,  leaving  an  opening 
of  2ft.  or  a  little  more  for  the  crew.  This  well,  with  its 
ugly  octagonal  form,  while  a  decided  improvement  in  many 
ways,  more  than  any  other  feature  earned  for  the  canoe  the 
dismal  epithet  of  coffin,  once  so  frequently  applied  to  it; 
besides  which,  owins  to  the  number  of  pieces  (eight)  it  gave 
no  strength  to  the  deck,  and  the  joints  soon  opened  and  leaked, 
while  the  almost  square  end  forward  did  not  throw  the  watei 
from  the  deck,  but  sent  spray  back  over  the  crew. 

In  1878  the  Shadow  canoe  came  out  with  an  elliptical  well 
20in.  by  5ft.,  covered  by  four  hatches,  so  arranged  as  to  close 
the  well  entirely  in  shipping  the  cauoe;  or  by  removing  one 
or  two  hatches,  making  room  for  the  crew  when  afloat.  The 
first  point  was  a  decided  advantage,  but  it  was  foand  in 
cruising  that  on  a  warm  day  the  canoe  became  very  hot 
below  with  hatches  fitting  closely  around  the  canoeist,  and 
when  they  were  removed  there  was  no  room  for  them  unless 
piled  three  high  forward,  and  liable  to  be  \o&i  overboard. 

At  the  same  time  the  first  Jersey  Blue  canoe  appeared  with 
a  rectangular  well  lyin.  by  oft.,  1ft.  being  abaft  the  crew, 
the  coaming  at  sides  of  weil  extending  over  the  forward  deck 
and  forming  slides  for  a  sliding  hatch,  which  could  be 
quiclUy  pulled  aft,  covering  as  much  of  the  well  as  desired, 
while  a  rubber  apron,  kept  rolled  up  on  top  of  the  hatch, 
completed  the  covering.  This  arrangement  answered  the 
purpose  of  protection,  but  the  square  corners  and  sliding 
hatch  were  clumsy  and  heavy  in  appearance. 

At  the  same  time  a  canoe  was  built  in  Harlem  having  a 
pointed  coaming  forward,  with  a  slight  flare,  the  first  of  its 
kind,  in  America  at  least,  and  in  1880  the  Sandy  Hook  and 
Jersey  Blue  canoes  were  fitted  with  pointed  coamings,  but 
not  flaring,  the  first  of  the  style  now  so  common  being  put 
in  the  Dot  in  place  of  the  Shadow  well  in  1881. 

This  form  of  well,  shown  in  Plate  IV.,  is  in  outline 
similar  to  a  Gothic  arch,  and  in  addition  the  sides  flaie 
outward,  throwing  off  all  spray  at  the  sides.  The  after 
end  is   made   either  round    or   square,  the   latter   giving 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING. 


69 


60  CANOE  FITIINOS. 

more  room  when  two  are  carried.  A  chock  of  mahogany 
(g)  in  the  drawing,  is  fitted  in  the  angle,  belaying  pins 
or  cleats  being  sometimes  put  on  it.  This  form  of 
coaming  is  well  fitted  to  hold  an  apron,  the  fore  end  of 
which,  being  fitted  to  the  point  of  the  coaming,  cannot  wash 
off,  and  no  spray  can  beat  in  under  it.  The  well  may  be 
partly  or  entirely  covered  by  hatches,  as  desired. 

Another  important  feature  in  a  well  is  its  width,  which 
must  be  regulated  by  the  size  and  intended  use  of  the  canoe. 
In  a  narrow  and  shoal  boat,  such  as  the  Rob  Roy,  a  width  of 
18in.  will  be  enough,  as  the  side  decks  will  be  wider  and  less 
water  will  come  over  the  side,  while  the  crew  can  still  lean 
out  to  windward,  but  in  a  wider  and  deeper  boat  there  is  less 
danger  of  water  over  the  side,  and  the  coaming  being  higher 
above  the  floor  will  interfere  with  the  crew  leaning  over,  and 
therefore  should  be  made  wider,  the  usual  widfh  being  20in. 

American  practice  in  canoe  sailing,  especially  in  racing, 
differs  materially  from  the  English;  the  crew,  in  America, 
almost  invariably  being  seated  on  the  weather  deck,  in  sail- 
ing to  windward,  the  feet  braced  under  the  lee  deck,  the  body 
leaning  well  to  windward,  and  the  steering  being  done  by 
means  of  a  tiller  on  the  after  deck,  but  in  England  the  crew 
is  seated  low  down  in  the  canoe,  a  portion  of  the  deck  abreast 
the  body  being  cut  away  and  the  opening  closed  at  will  by  a 
hinged  flap,  the  weather  one  being  closed  and  the  lee  one 
opened  at  the  end  of  each  tack,  only  the  head  and  shoulders 
being  above  deck,  offering  but  little  surface  to  the  wind. 
With  this  arrangement  a  narrow  well  is  allowable. 

That  canoeists  may  judge  for  themselves  as  to  the  value  of 
this  feature  for  their  work,  we  quote  from  the  London  Field 
the  opinions  of  Messrs.  Baden-Powell  and  Tredwen  concern- 
ing them.  The  former  gentleman  says :  "In  describing  the 
canoe  fittings  of  the  present  day,  the  side  deck  flaps  must  not 
be  omitted.  In  a  sailing  canoe  it  is  all  important,  but  1  do 
not  admit  its  great  utility  in  a  traveling  canoe,  at  least  not  for 
general  work.  "Where  the  chief  work  is  to  be  lake  sailing,  side 
flaps  will  be  very  useful ;  but  where  much  hauling  out  and 
jumping  in  and  out  is  to  be  the  order  of  the  day,  side  flaps 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  61 

are  utterly  out  of  place.  The  side  flap  was  first  introduced 
in  the  Rob  Roy  in  1868,  but  did  not  appear  in  the  next  edi- 
tion of  that  name.  It  has,  however,  now  become  a  general 
favorite,  and  it  is  to  be  found  in  every  sailing  canoe.  If 
fitted  to  the  traveling  canoe,  the  after  end  of  the  flap  should 
be  just  forward  of  the  backboard  beam,  and  it  should  be 
strongly  hinged  at  the  outer  edge;  and,  in  short,  strongly 
fitted  in  every  way,  as  it  is  just  about  the  place  that  one's 
hands  lay  hold  of  to  raise  the  body  in  case  of  a  sudden  jump 
up  or  out.  A  broken,  and  perhaps  lost  overboard,  flap  would 
be  a  dangerous  mishap  to  a  canoe,  if  caught  at  the  time  in  a 
breeze  at  a  mile  or  two  from  land." 

Mr.  Tredweu,  after  describing  some  of  the  canoes  that  he 
has  designed  and  built  during  the  past  fifteen  years,  con 
Unues:  "It  has  already  been  observed  that  the  flap  side  decks 
have  not  been  fitted  to  all  the  Pearl  canoes,  and  that  where  a 
canoe  has  been  built  with  them,  they  have  been  subsequently 
discHrded,  and  that  the  next  canoe  built  without  them  has 
subsequently  been  altered  by  the  addition  of  this  contri- 
vance. The  result  of  this  varied  experience  is  to  establish 
them  as  a  very  valuable  adjunct  to  a  cruising  canoe  if  prop- 
erly applied  and  fitted,  otherwise  they  are  better  omitted. 
There  are  two  essentials  bes-ides  the  flaps  themselves,  consist- 
ing of  two  sets  of  coamings  around  the  openings  cut  in  the 
deck.  The  first  coamings  are  parallel  and  close  to  the  cuts 
across  the  deck,  and  consequently  at  right  angles  with  the 
ordinary  well  coamings,  and  are  screwed  securely  to  the 
deck,  and  their  inboard  ends  butt  on  to  the  well  coamings. 
They  entirely  prevent  any  leakage  along  the  deck  from  for- 
ward or  aft,  into  the  openings  of  the  flap  side  deck. 

"The  second  set  of  coamings  are  placed  transversely,  hinged 
to  the  deck,  and  when  raised  their  inboard  ends  fit  closely 
against  the  beading  or  coaming  of  the  hatch  cover;  and  they 
are  not  intended  to  exclude  leakage  along  the  deck,  but  they 
serve  as  catches  around  which  the  mackintosh  coat  fits,  to 
prevent  any  sea  breaking  into  the  well.  The  inboard  ends 
must  therefore  project  about  half  an  inch  above  the  hatch 
cover  when  they  are  raised.     Many  canoes  have  had  these 


fi2  CANOE  FITTINGS. 

binged  coamings  fitted  without  the  fixed  coamings,  and  with- 
out sufficient  width  to  project  above  the  hatch  cover,  and  as 
they  neither  exclude  water  running  baclc  along  the  deck,  nor 
provide  a  holdfast  for  the  mackintosli,  the  wliolc  contri- 
vance has  been  condemned. " 

In  this  country  the  first  step  in  this  direction  was  in  the 
Elfin,  a  ^ew  York  canoe,  which  in  1878  had  her  coamings 
cut  and  hinged;  the  first  real  side  flaps  being  put  in  the 
Sandy  Hook  in  1881,  since  wMch  they  have  been  tried  in 
various  canoes,  but  have  not  come  into  general  use.  Their 
construction  is  shown  in  .the  drawings. 

In  the  Pearl  canoe,  the  well,  which  is  almost  rectangular, 
is  covered  by  a  forward  hatch  in  two  parts,  the  after  portion, 
extending  to  the  body,  being  hinged  to  the  foi-ward  part,  so 
as  to  lie  flat  on  it,  when  opened.  On  its  after  end  is  a  bead- 
ing, over  which  the  skirt  of  the  canoe  jacket  is  drawn,  this 
skirt  also  being  held,  by  a  rubber  band  run  around  its  lower 
edges  to  a  similar  beading  on  the  after  hatch,  and  to  the 
hinged  coamings  described;  the  deck  flaps  opening  inside  the 
wide  skirt,  so  that  there  is  no  entrance  for  water  below. 
Where  it  is  desired  to  close  the  canoe  entirely,  the  well  is 
covered  by  three  or  lour  hatches,  fitting  closely  together,  as 
shown  in  the  drawing  of  the  Shadow.  These  are  held  down 
by  a  bar  running  over  them  fore  and  aft,  one  end  of  which 
is  inserted  in  an  eyebolt  at  fore  end  of  well,  the  other  pad- 
locking to  a  similar  bolt  aft. 


APRONS. 

In  rainy  weather  or  in  rough  water  it  is  necessary  to  cover 
the  well  entirely,  either  by  hatches  or  by  an  apron  fitting 
closely  around  the  body.  The  simplest  form  of  apron,  and 
one  especially  adapted  to  the  pointed  coaming,  is  a  cover  of 
cloth,  cut  to  the  shape  of  the  coaming  and  turned  down  on 
the  edges,  to  button  over  screw  heads  in  the  latter,  near  the 
deck.  It  also  extends  aft  about  6in.  over  the  hatch  or  deck 
immediately  behind  the  back.     A  hole  is  cut  for  the  body  of 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDINO.  63 

the  canoeist,  and  around  the  edge  a  piece  (a)  6in.  wide  is 
stitched,  so  as  to  be  drawn  around  the  body.  This  piece  is 
long  enougli  to  lap,  as  at  {b),  and  button  on  one  side.  That 
portion  of  the  apron  abaft  the  body  is  held  down  by  a  cord 
{c)  made  last  to  cleats  or  screweycs  on  deck,  the  apron  not 
being  buttoned  to  coaming  abreast  of  the  body. 

A  beam  (rf),  to  which  the  apron,  just  forward  of  the  body, 
is  nailed,  keeps  it  arched  so  as  to  shed  all  water.  If  a  for- 
ward hutch  is  used,  the  fore  end  of  apron  may  be  buttoned 
to  it.  In  case  of  a  capsize,  the  after  part  will  pull  from 
under  the  cord,  and  the  canoeist  is  free,  the  apron  remain- 
ing on  the  coaming.  Instead  of  a  buttonhole  on  the  flap,  a 
loop  of  light  tvvine  should  be  used,  so  as  to  break  at  once,  if 
necessary. 

*  Another  device  is  the  telescopic  apron  devised  by  Mr. 
Farnham,  which  consists  of  a  wire  framework  covered  with 
oiied  cloth.  This  framework  is  composed  of  several  brass 
or  German  silver  tubes  (e),  one  sliding  in  another,  as  in  a 
telescope,  and  also  of  carlins  (/)  of  ^in.  spring  brass  wire, 
soldered  or  brazed,  as  shown,  to  collars  (</)  on  the  tubes.  The 
ends  of  these  carlins  are  turned,  as  shown,  to  enga,r;o  under 
the  beading  on  the  outer  edge  of  the  coaming,  and  are  also 
bent  into  loops  to  avoid  cutting  the  cloth.  On  the  after  end 
a  piece  of  -^^  wire  (A),  bent  to  a  curve,  is  brazed,  being  also 
brazed  to  the  after  carlin.  This  wire  should  extend  3in.  aft 
of  the  sliding  bulkhead  to  i.  Forward  of  the  well  is  a  block 
screwed  to  the  deck,  and  to  it  the  first  tube  is  pivoted  by  a 
universal  joint,  permitting  a  side  motion  to  the  framework, 
but  holding  it  down  forward,  or  it  may  be  held  by  a  strap, 
as  shown.  When  the  frame  is  drawn  into  position,  the  ends 
of  the  carlins,  hooking  under  the  beading,  hold  it  down,  and 
the  curved  ends  of  the  piece  (A)  hook  over  blocks  (0  on  each 
side,  keeping  all  in  position. 

The  cover  is  of  stout  muslin,  cut  about  Bin.  larger  each 
way  than  the  coaming,  so  as  to  turn  down,  aa  elastic  cord 
being  run  in  the  hem  to  draw  it  tight.  Before  sewing  the 
cover  to  the  frame,  the  ends  of  the  carlins  and  all  sharp 
corners  or  edges  are  covered   with  leather,  so  as  to  avoid 

*  See  page  133. 


64  APRONS. 

cutting  the  cover.  Extra  strips  are  sewn  on  the  lower  side, 
under  the  carlins,  to  hold  down  the  cover.  For  rough  water 
an  extra  apron  is  used,  being  a  short  skirt,  fitting  under  the 
arras,  the  lower  edge  gathered  in  by  an  elastic  cord.  An 
extra  wire  {k)  is  attached  to  the  framework,  forming  a  coam- 
ing on  the  after  end  of  the  apron,  and  a  woodea  coaming 
also  runs  across  the  after  hatch.  The  lower  edge  of  the 
skirt  is  drawn  over  these  coamings,  and  also  over  two  knobs 
(Z)  at  the  sides,  the  elastic  holding  all  in  place. 

The  apron  on  a  Rob  Roy  or  small  canoe  is  sometimes  held 
down  by  a  strip  of  wood  (m)  on  either  side  of  the  coaming, 
to  which  the  apron  is  tacked,  each  strip  having  a  flat  brass 
hook  {n)  to  hold  it  to  the  coaming,  the  forward  end  of  apron 
being  held  down  by  a  rubber  cord  passing  around  the  fore 
end  of  well. 

The  material  for  an  apron  should  be  stout  muslin,  and 
after  being  cut  and  sewed  it  should  be  stretched  tightly, 
well  dampened,  and  coated  with  a  mixture  of  turpentine  one 
part,  boiled  linseed  oil  three  parts,  and  raw  oil  six  parts, 
laid  on  very  thin,  a  second  coat  being  given  when  the  first 
is  perfectly  dry.  To  complete  the  covering  of  the  well, 
either  with  hatches  or  aprons,  a  waterproof  coat  is  neces- 
sary, made  in  the  form  of  a  loose  shirt,  opening  about  6in. 
in  front,  the  sleeves  being  gathered  in  at  the  wrists  with 
elastic.  The  coat  is  just  long  enough  to  touch  the  floor 
when  seated,  and  it  should  have  a  flounce  outside,  just  under 
the  arms,  and  long  enough  to  fasten  over  the  coamings,  or 
hinged  pieces  of  the  side  flaps,  if  the  latter  are  used,  the 
coat  being  full  enough  to  allow  them  to  be  opened  inside  of 
it.  To  put  on  the  coat  it  is  rolled  into  a  ring,  slipped 
quickly  over  the  head,  the  arms  thrust  into  the  sleeves,  after 
which  it  may  be  adjusted  at  leisure.  Care  should  be  taken 
in  putting  it  on,  as  an  upset  while  entangled  in  it  would  be 
serious. 

A  seat  of  some  kind  is  necessary  in  a  canoe;  it  should 
be  as  low  as  possible,  in  order  to  keep  the  weight  down,  but 
still  high  enough  to  be  comfortable  when  paddling.  In  a 
boat  of   llin.   or  more  depth  the  crew  must  sit  several 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDINO.  65 


^^ 


^ 


I  B        ^         I         -^ 


CA170E  AFROKS,  ETC. 


C6  APRONS. 

inches  above  the  bottom  to  paddle  comfortably,  and  in  such 
a  boat  a  high  seat  allows  the  body  to  lean  further  to  wind- 
ward; but  in  a  shoal  boat  all  that  is  necessary  is  a  small 
cushion  on  the  floor  boards. 

The  tent,  clothes  bag  or  blankets  may  serve  as  a  seat, 
though  it  is  better  that  all  bedding  should  be  stowed  below 
deck  and  out  of  the  reach  of  any  moisture.  Some  canoes  are 
fitted  with  a  seat  of  pressed  wood,  such  as  is  used  for  chair- 
seats,  and  in  some  cases  the  seat  is  simply  a  box  without  top 
or  bottom,  about  lOln.  square  and  Sin.  deep,  the  top  being 
covered  with  canvas,  or  leather  straps. 

A  feature  that  is  peculiar  to  the  canoe,  and  that  adds 
greatly  to  the  comfort  of  the  canoeist,  is  the  backboard, 
usually  a  framework  with  two  vertical  strips  joined  by  two 
crosspieces,  as  shown  at  o,  and  hung  from  the  shifting  bulk- 
head by  a  strap.  The  vertical  pieces  are  2J^in.  wide  and 
■f  thick,  slightly  rounded  on  the  fore  side,  and  are  placed  2i 
inches  apart,  thus  supporting  the  back  on  either  side  of  the 
backbone,  and  the  crosspieces  are  rivetted  to  them. 
Sometimes  a  flat  board,  about  8xl2in.,  is  used,  either 
with  or  without  a  cushion ;  but  the  frame  is  better.  For 
paddling  double,  an  extra  beam  is  used  across  the  cockpit, 
■with  a  backboard  hung  on  it  for  the  forward  man.  or  a  seat 
is  made  of  two  pieces  of  board  hinged  together,  one  forming 
the  back,  being  supported  by  a  brace  hinged  to  it  (p).  This 
back  may  be  used  at  any  point  desired,  being  independent 
of  the  well  and  coaming,  and  the  angle  of  the  back  may  be 
changed  at  will,  while  it  7S  easily  folded  and  stowed  away 
when  not  in  use. 

To  increase  the  stowage  room  and  to  secure  a  better  dispo- 
sition of  weights  fore  and  aft,  batches  are  sometimes  cut  in 
the  deck,  but  to  be  really  valuable,  two  points  are  essential 
which  have  never  yet  been  obtained ;  they  must  be  quickly 
opened  and  closed,  and  airtight  when  closed.  As  good  a 
method  as  any  is  to  make  a  regular  coaming  to  the  opening 
in  the  deck  f  to  lin.  high,  the  hatch  fitting  on  to  this  coam- 
ing with  a  beading  projecting  down,  two  thumb  screws 
being  used  to  secure  it.     Its  water-tight  qualities  may  be  im- 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  67 

proved  by  a  square  of  rubber  cloth  laid  over  the  opening 
before  putting  on  the  hatch.  This  hatch  is  heavy  and 
clumsy  in  appearance  compared  with  hatches  flush  with  the 
deck,  but  the  latter  always  leak,  and  are  never  to  be  relied  on. 

In  some  cases  where  it  may  be  desirable  to  get  at  the  in- 
side of  the  compartments  occasionally  for  repairs,  a  hatch 
may  be  cut  in  the  deck  and  covered  with  a  piece  of  Jin. 
mahogany  decking,  lin.  larger  each  way  than  the  opening, 
and  fastened  by  brass  screws  as  the  deck  is,  the  laps  being 
first  painted.  This  piece  will  be  airtight  and  yet  can  be  re- 
moved and  replaced  in  a  few  minutes  when  repairs  are 
needed. 

For  transporting  the  canoe  on  shore  a  yoke  is  necessary,  and 
may  be  made  in  several  ways,  the  simplest  form  being  that 
used  for  the  guides'  boats  in  the  Adirondacks,  a  piece  of 
wood  (r)  hollowed  to  fit  over  the  shoulders  and  around  the 
neck,  the  boat,  bottom  up  of  course,  resting  with  one  gun- 
wale on  each  end  of  the  yoke.  Another  form  is  a  box 
(s)  with  no  top  or  bottom,  long  enough  to  fit  in  the  width  of 
the  well,  and  having  two  straps  (t)  across  one  side,  which 
rest  on  the  shoulders;  the  coaming  of  the  boat  resting  on 
the  ends  of  the  box. 

A  plan  lately  devised  by  Mr.  Farnham  employs  a  franle 
of  four  pieces,  which  also  serves  in  place  of  a  sliding  bulk- 
head. When  used  as  a  yoke,  two  straps  are  buckled  across 
it  and  support  it  on  the  shoulders,  the  boat  being  inverted 
on  it. 


PADDLES. 


The  principal  point  of  difference  between  a  canoe  and 
other  boats,  is  the  mode  of  propulsion,  the  paddle  being  held 
and  supported  by  Iwtli  hands,  while  in  boats  the  oar  or  scull 
i^  supported  on  the  boat,  and  its  motion  is  directed  hj  the 
hand.  The  former  is  the  primitive  mode,  and  even  today 
the  craft  used  i)y  savage  tribes  are  propelled  almost  entirely 
by  paddles,  the  oar  being  used  by  civilized  nations 

The  shape  of  the  paddle  differs  greatly  in  various  locahties, 


08  PADDLES. 

but  two  forms  only  are  known  to  modern  canoeists,  the 
single  blade,  shown  in  the  center  of  the  accompanying 
plate,  and  the  double  blade,  various  forms  of  wkich  are 
also  shown.  The  former,  derived  from  the  Nortli  American 
Indians,  is  about  S^ft.  long,  with  a  blade  Sin.  wide,  and  is 
made  of  maple,  beech,  or  spruce.  The  upper  end  is  fash- 
ioned so  as  to  fit  easily  in  the  hand,  the  fingers  being  doubled 
over  the  top.  The  single  paddle  is  used  continuously  on  the 
same  side  of  the  boat,  and  its  motion,  in  skilled  hands,  is 
noiseless. 

The  double  paddle,  the  one  best  known  in  connection  with 
modern  canoes  from  the  time  of  MacGregor,  is  derived 
directly  from  the  Esquimau  and  his  kayak.  The  length 
varies  with  the  beam  of  the  canoe,  from  7  to  9ft.,  the  former 
size  being  the  one  first  used  with  the  small  cmoes,  but  a 
gradual  increase  in  length  has  been  going  on  for  some  years, 
and  of  late  many  canoeists  have  adopted  9ft.  instead  of  8,  as 
formerly,  for  boats  of  30in.  beam  and  over.  Various  patterns 
of  paddles,  as  made  by  different  builders,  are  shown  in  the 
plate,  half  of  each  paddle  only  being  given.  The  blades  vary 
in  width  from  6  to  Tin.,  and  in  length  from  18  to  20in. 

Paddles  of  over  7ft.  are  usually  cut  iu  two  and  jointed,  the 
joint  consisting  of  two  brass  lubes,  the  larger  one  SJin.  long 
and  from  1,-^  to  1,V  outside  diameter,  the  smaller  one  2|in. 
long,  and  fitting  tightly  inside  the  former.  The  sho:t  piece 
is  sometimes  fitted  with  a  small  pin,  fitting  notches  in  the 
.\onger  piece,  so  that  when  the  paddle  is  set,  either  with  both 
blades  in  the  same  plane,  or  if  paddling  against  the  wind, 
the  blades  at  right  angles,  no  further  motion  is  permitted  ia 
the  joint;  but  this  pl;in  is  not  advisable,  as  when  the  joint 
sticks,  as  it  often  will,  it  is  necessary  to  turn  the  paits  to 
loosen  them,  which  of  course  the  pin  prevents. 

Tips  of  sheet  brass  or  copper  are  put  on  the  ends  to  pre- 
serve them  from  injury  against  stones  and  logs  in  pushing 
off.  Pine  or  spruce  are  the  best  materials  for  paddles  of  this 
style.  To  prevent  the  water  dripping  down  on  the  hands, 
rubber  washers  are  used,  or  two  round  rubber  bands  on  each 
end,  about  'Z\xx.  apart,  will  answer  the  same  purpose.     One 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  69 


CANOK  PADDLES. 


70  SAILS  AND  RIGGING. 

half  of  the  double  paddle  is  sometimes  used  as  a  single  blade, 
an  extra  piece,  similar  to  the  head  shown  on  the  double  blade, 
being  inserted  in  the  ferrule;  or  when  sailing,  one  half, 
lengthened  out  by  a  handle  18in.  long,  may  be  carried  on 
deck,  ready  for  any  emergency,  the  other  half  being  stowed 
below.  The  half  padf^le,  in  this  case,  is  held  with  the  blade 
under  a  cord  stretched  over  the  forward  deck,  the  after  end 
being  held  by  a  cord  looped  over  a  cleat  abreast  the  body. 
For  racing  and  light  paddling,  spoon  blades  are  used,  the 
general  outline  being  the  same  as  the  straight  blade?,  but  the 
latter  are  stronger  and  better  for  cruising  work. 


SAILS  AND  RIGGING. 


The  success  of  a  canoe  as  a  sailing  craft  depends  largely 
on  the  proportioning  of  the  sails  to  the  boit  aad  the 
work  to  be  done — on  their  proper  fitting,  and  on  the  perfec- 
tion of  all  the  smaller  details  of  tbe  rigging.  Almost  every 
known  rig  has  been  tried  on  canoes,  all  but  a  few  having 
been  in  time  rejected,  so  that  to-day  but  three  types  are  at 
all  popular  with  canoeists— the  leg  of  mutton,  the  lateen, 
and  the  lug. 

Before  deciding  on  the  shape  of  the  sails,  the  first  question 
is.  How  much  sail  to  carry?  a  question  only  to  be  decided 
by  a  comparison  with  other  boats  and  their  rigs.  Attempts 
have  been  made  to  formulate  expressions  by  which  the  area 
of  sail  may  be  calculated  when  the  dimensions  and  weight 
of  the  boat  are  known ;  but  in  a  canoe  the  greatest  elements 
in  carrying  sail  are  the  personal  qualities  of  the  canoeist,  his 
skill,  activity,  daring,  prudence  and  good  judgmei.t;  and 
their  value  is  easily  appreciated  when  on  tho  same  canoe  one 
man  can  carry  100  square  feet  of  sail,  while  another  will 
hardly  be  safe  with  fifty.  This  being  the  case  it  is  impos- 
sible to  calculate  what  area  a  canoe  will  carry,  but  a  com- 
parison with  similar  boats  will  give  the  average  cruising  rig, 
the  canoeist  maJdng  such  an  addition  to  it  as  he  considers 
wiU  suit  his  individual  wants. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  71 

Another  uncertain  dement  in  carrying  sail  is  the  charae 
ter  of  the  water  on  wliich  most  of  the  work  is  done.  If  on 
a  river  or  lake,  among  hills,  where  squalls  are  sudden  and 
violent,  the  sails  should  be  small,  and  the  arrangements  for 
furling  and  reefing  them  as  complete  and  reliable  as  possible; 
if  on  open  water,  where  the  wind  is  strong  but  steady,  a 
large  sail  may  be  carried,  fitted  with  an  ample  reef  for 
rough  weather. 

Whatever  area  be  chosen,  the  almost  universal  practice 
with  canoeists  is  to  carry  two  sails.  The  cat  rig,  though 
simple,  requires  larger  and  heavier  spars,  a  large  boom  and 
a  high  center  of  effort,  and  is  more  difficult  to  handle,  as  far 
as  setting,  furling  and  stowing  sail,  than  the  main  and  miz- 
zen  rig;  and,  on  the  other  hand,  a  jib  has  been  proved  to  be 
of  little  use,  as  it  is  difficult  to  set  in  a  boat  where  the  crew 
cinnot  go  forward;  a  number  of  lines  are  needed,  it  requires 
constant  attention,  is  useless  when  running,  and  of  little 
benefit  when  doing  its  best.  By  having  tbe  bulk  of  the  sail 
forward,  it  can  be  easily  reached,  is  always  in  sight,  draws 
well  when  running,  and  can  be  quickly  spilled  without 
losing  the  power  of  luffing,  while  the  mizzen  aft  requires 
very  little  attention,  luffs  the  boat  promptly  and  keeps  way 
on  her,  and  even  if  neglected,  can  do  little  but  bring  her  into 
the  wind. 

In  a  long,  narrow  boat  like  the  canoe,  the  sail  should  be 
spread  well  fore  and  aft,  long  and  low,  rather  than  narrow 
and  high,  as  the  propelling  power  will  be  as  great,  and  the 
heeling  or  capsizing  power  much  less,  and  this  end  is  best 
attained  with  the  main  and  mizzen  rig. 

In  order  to  obtain  a  proper  balance  of  the  sails,  it  is  ne- 
cessary that  tlieir  common  center  or  the  point  at  which,  if  a 
force  were  applied,  it  would  balance  the  pressure  of  the  wind 
on  the  sails,  which  point  is  called  the  center  of  effort,  should 
be  nearly  in  the  same  vertical  line  with  the  center  of  lateral 
resistance  of  the  hull,  which  lattor  is  the  point  at  which,  if 
a  string  were  attached,  and  the  boat,  with  rudder  amidships 
and  centerboards  down,  were  drawn  sideways,  it  would 
advance  at  right  angles  to  the  string,   neither  bow  nor  stern 


73  SAILS  AND  RIGOING. 

being  ahead.  These  points  would  be  described  in  technical 
language  as  the  common  center  of  gravity  of  the  sails,  and 
the  center  of  gravity  of  the  immersed  vertical  longitudinal 
section,  including  rudder  and  centerboard. 

The  center  of  lateral  resistance  can  be  ascertained  by 
drawing  accurately  to  scale,  on  a  piece  of  cardboard  the 
outline  of  that  portion  of  the  hull  below  the  waterline,  in- 
cluding rudder,  keel  or  board,  taking  it  from  the  sheerplan, 
then  cutting  out  the  piece  and  balancing  it  on  a  fine  needle 
stuck  in  a  cork.  The  point  on  which  it  will  balance  is  the 
center  of  lateral  resistance. 

To  ascertain  the  center  of  effort,  some  calculation  is  ne- 
cessary. A  sail  draft  is  first  made  showing  the  sails,  masts, 
hull  and  center  of  lateral  resistance,  the  scale  being  usually 
J  or  ^in.  to  the  foot  for  a  canoe  or  small  boat. 

First,  to  determine  the  area  of  the  sail ,  if  triangular,  a  line 
is  drawn  from  one  angle  perpendicular  to  the  opposite  side, 
or  to  that  side  produced.  Then  the  area  will  be  equal  to 
one-half  of  the  side  multiplied  by  the  distance  from  the  side 
to  the  angle ;  for  instance,  in  the  triangle  B  C  D  in  the  first 
figure,  which  represents  the  calculations  for  a  sail  of  89 
square  feet,  a  line  perpendicular  to  C  D  would  not  pass 
through  B;  so  C  D  is  produced  to  g  then  12ft.  3in.x7ft.  6in. 
—91. 87+2=45. 9ft.,  area  of  BCD.  If  the  sail  is  not  tri- 
angular it  may  be  divided  into  several  triangles,  each  being 
computed  separately.  The  sail  shown  will  first  be  divided 
by  the  line  C  D  from  throat  to  clew;  the  area  of  B  C  D 
has  been  ascertained  to  be  45.9ft.,  and  similarly  the  area  of 
A  C  D  is  43.9,  then  the  antire  area  will  be  88.8ft.  A  shorter 
rule,  and  one  that  in  most  sails  is  sufficiently  correct,  is  to 
multiply  the  distance  A  B  by  C  D,  and  to  take  half  of  the 
product,  but  in  a  high,  narrow  sail,  this  would  not  answer, 
as  in  this  case,  where  16ft.  4in.xl2ft.  Sin. =200+2=  100ft., 
or  an  error  of  1 1ft. 

The  area  being  known,  the  center  of  gravity  of  each  tri- 
angle is  next  found  by  drawing  a  line  from  the  middle  of  one 
side  to  the  opposite  angle,  and  laying  off  \  of  this  line,  as  in 
the  triangle,  BCD,  where  half  of  C  D  is  taken  at  a,  a  line. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING. 


78 


a  B,  drawn,  and  i  of  it  taken,  giving  the  point  d,  the  center 
of  the  triangle.    The  point  c  is  found  in  a  similar  manner. 


and  we  know  that  their  common  center  of  gravity  must  be 
on  the  line  e  d.    Now,  dividing  the  sail  by  a  line,  A  B,  into 


74  SAILS  AND  RIGGING. 

another  set  of  triangles,  ABC  and  A  B  D,  we  find  their 
centers  at  e  and/,  and  drawing  the  line  e  f,  its  intersection 
with  c  d  will  be  the  center  of  gravity,  and  consequently 
renter  of  effort,  of  the  entire  sail. 

To  determine  the  common  center  of  two  or  more  sails,  a 
vertical  line  is  drawn  just  ahead  of  the  forward  sail,  and  the 
distance  of  the  center  of  each  sail  from  this  line  is  measured 
and  multiplied  by  the  area  of  the  sail.  In  the  drawing, 
showing  two  balance  lugs  of  45  and  20ft.,  the  cruising  rig. 
for  a  14x30  canoe,  these  figures  would  be  40x5ft.  Sin. =232, 
and  20xl3f  t.  7in.^ — 273,  or  505.  Now,  dividing  this  sum  by 
the  total  area  of  the  sails,  or  65ft.,  we  have  ^^i^=7.77,  or  7ft 
9in.,  the  distance  of  the  center  of  effort  from  the  vertical 
line.  In  this  case,  the  center  of  effort  of  the  sails  and  the 
center  of  lateral  resistance  of  the  hull  will  fall  in  the  same 
vertical. 

To  be  safe,  a  boat  should  always  carry  sufficient  weather 
helm  to  luff  easily,  or  in  other  words,  when  sailing  on  the 
wind,  the  leverage  of  the  after  sail  should  be  enough  to  re- 
quire that  the  helm  be  carried  slightly  on  the  weather  side 
to  prevent  her  coming  up  into  the  wind,  then  if  it  be  left 
free  she  will  luff  instantly.  To  do  this  requires  in  theory 
that  the  center  of  effort  should  be  aft  of  the  center  of  lateral 
resistance,  but  in  the  calculations  it  is  assumed  that  both 
sails  and  hull  are  plane  surfaces,  while  in  reality  they  are 
both  curved  and  the  wind  pressure  is  distributed  unequally 
over  the  sails;  while  the  pressure  of  the  wave  on  the  lee  bow, 
aided  by  a  decrease  of  pressure  under  the  lee  quarter,  tend 
to  shove  the  boat  to  windward,  independently  of  her  sails,  so 
that  she  will  have  a  greater  weather  helm  in  any  case  than  the 
calculations  show,  varying  with  the  fullness  of  her  bows, 
and  the  center  of  effort  may  often  be  placed  some  distance 
ahead  of  the  center  of  lateral  resistance. 

It  will  be  seen  from  this  that  such  calculations  are  not 
absolutely  exact,  but  they  are  the  best  guides  we  have,  and 
if  the  calculated  centers,  and  actual  working  in  practice  of 
different  boats  are  recorded,  a  comparison  will  show  what 
allowance  is  necessary  in  the  case  of  a  similar  boat. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING. 


75 


In  planniDg  a  canoe's  sails  then,  three  things  should  be 
kept  in  view;  to  distribute  the  sail  well  fore  and  aft,  keep- 
ing a  low  center  of  effort ;  to  keep  the  latter  about  over  the 


center  of  lateral  resistance,  and  to  keep  as  short  a  main  boom 
as  is  consistent  with  the  first  point. 
In  order  that  a  boat  should  sail  equally  well  with  her 


76  SAILS  AND  RIGGING. 

board  up  or  down,  the  center  of  the  board  should  come 
under  the  center  of  lateral  resistance,  otherwise,  if  the  board 
be  forward  and  the  boat  balances  with  it  lowered,  on  raising 
it,  the  center  of  lateral  resistance  at  once  moves  aft,  and  the 
center  of  effort  being  unchanged,  the  greater  leverage  is  for- 
ward, and  the  boat's  head  falls  off. 

If  it  is  necessary  to  place  the  board  well  forward,  it  may 
be  done  by  using  a  small  mizzen,  a  reef  being  shaken  out  in 
it  when  the  board  is  raised.  A  mainsail  is  sometimes  rigged 
and  tried  with  a  cheaply  made  mizzen  of  any  shape  until  the 
proper  balance  is  obtained,  when  a  suitable  mizzen  is  rigged 
permanently. 

The  simplest  rig  for  a  canoe  is  the  leg  of  mutton,  or,  as 
it  is  sometimes  called,  sharpie  rig,  consisting  of  two  tri- 
angular sails,  requiring  only  mast,  boom,  halliard  and  sheet, 
and  on  a  narrow  boat,  where  but  a  small  area  can  be  carried, 
they  will  answer  very  well,  but  where  a  large  spread  is 
needed,  the  spars  must  be  so  long  as  to  be  unmanageable; 
for  instance,  to  spread  60  square  feet,  with  an  8ft.  boom, 
would  require  a  mast  16ft.  above  the  deck.  Another  disad- 
vantage is  the  necessity  of  using  rings  on  the  mast,  as  they 
are  liable  to  jam  in  hoisting  and  lowering. 

A  simple  sail,  once  used  on  canoes,  is  the  spritsail,  but  it 
was  abandoned  on  account  of  the  diflSculty  of  handling  the 
sprit  in  so  small  a  boat.  The  ordinary  boom  and  gaff  sail  is 
also  objectionable  as  it  requires  two  halliards  and  the  rings 
on  the  mast,  are  apt  to  jam. 

The  lateen  sail,  as  adapted  by  Lord  Ross,  is  much  used 
on  canoes,  especially  the  smaller  ones.  It  has  the  ad- 
vantages of  a  short  mast,  low  center  of  effort,  and  few  lines; 
but  the  yard  and  boom  must  be  very  long,  the  sail  cannot  be 
furled  or  reefed  when  before  the  wind,  and  it  is  not  suited 
for  large  areas.  The  lateens  introduced  by  the  Cincinnati 
C.  C.  are  practically  leg  of  mutton  sails,  the  yard  peaking 
up  into  the  position  of  a  topmast,  as  shown  in  the  drawing. 
The  ordinary  lateen  rig  consists  of  a  triangular  sail  laced  to 
a  yard  and  boom,  both  spars  being  jointed  together  at  the 
tack,  and  a  pole  mast  with  a  spike  several  inches  long  on 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING. 


77 


78  SAILS  AND  RIGGING. 

top.  A  brass  ring  is  lashed  to  the  yard  near  its  lower  end, 
and  a  jaw  (a)  of  wood  or  metal  is  fastened  to  the  boom,  a 
short  distance  from  the  forward  end.  In  sctling  the  sail, 
the  yard  is  lifted  until  the  ring  can  be  hooked  over  the  spike 
on  the  mast,  then  the  boom  is  drawn  back,  lifting  the  yard, 
and  the  jaw  is  dropped  in  place  around  the  mast,  the  oper- 
ation being  reversed  in  taking  in  sail. 

The  following  method  of  reefing  the  lateen  (see  p.  83)  was  de 
vised  by  Gen.  Oliver,  of  the  Mohican  C.  C.  The  fore  end  of 
the  boom  is  fitted  with  a  jaw  (6)  which  encircles  the  mast  when 
the  sail  is  set,  making  aleg  of  muttonsail,  while  on  the  boom 
is  a  jaw  {a).  In  reefing,  the  jaw  {b)  is  removed  from  the  mast, 
allowing  the  boom  to  come  forward  until  a  touches  the  mast, 
the  slack  of  the  sail  being  taken  in  by  a  reef  line,  d  dd. 
One  end  of  this  line  is  made  fast  at  the  tack,  it  is  then  rove 
through  grommets  in  the  sail,  and  the  other  end  made  fast 
on  the  leach,  the  slack  being  taken  in  by  ho<>king  the  cord 
over  a  screweye  (e)  on  the  boom  forward,  and  another  aft. 
Another  similar  plan  dispenses  with  the  jaw  on  the  end  of 
the  boom,  using  instead  a  second  jaw  on  the  boom  near  the 
first,  the  shape  of  the  sail  being  a  little  dijfferent,  but  the 
details  of  reef  line,  etc. ,  the  same. 

Another  sail  devised  by  Gen.  Oliver,  and  called  by  him  the 
"Mohican"  sail,  is  intended  to  combine  the  short  boom  and 
facility  in  reefing  of  the  balance  lug  with  the  short  mast  of 
the  lateen.* 

Fig.  A  represents  the  sail  set.  The  short  mast  with  pin, 
and  the  spars  toggled  together  of  the  Ross  lateen,  are  used 
with  the  addition  of  a  jaw  at  the  end  of  boom.  Tlie  sail  is 
set  in  the  usual  lateen  manner,  and  the  spar,  B,  becomes  vir- 
tually a  high  mast,  and  is  treated  as  such.  Four  very  light 
bamboo  battens  are  put  in  the  sail  to  increase  the  area,  and 
the  sail  is  attached  to  the  spar,  B,  as  far  up  as  the  ring,  and 
from  that  point  to  a  batten  (a),  and  this  batten  is  attached  to 
B  by  halliard,  b,  which  passes  through  block  to  foot  and 
back  to  hand.  The  sail  can  be  lowered  by  halliard  (6)  or 
taken  off  mast.  A,  in  the  usual  manner  of  lateens. 

The  first  reef  is  taken  by  letting  go  halliard  and  pulling  in 

♦This  sail  is  little  used  at  present,  nnd  the  name  "Mohican"  is 
applied  solely  to  the  settee  sail  described  on  page  159. 


AMATEVR  CANOE  BUILDING. 


79 


reef  line  (one  being  the  continuation  of  the  other)  until  bat- 
ten touches  boom.  The  Dot's  reefing  gear  is  used  in  this 
instance,  and  works  admirably.     The  second  reef  is  taken 


Fig.  a. — "Mohican"  Sail,. 

by  unshipping  boom  C  from  mast  A  and  hooking  it  again  to 
A  by  the  jaw.  Batten  No.  2  drops  to  No.  4,  and  the  slack 
is  taken  up  by  reef  line,  as  shown,  and  the  sail  becomes  an 


80 


8AIL8  AND  RIQOINO. 


ordinary  lateen.     The  halliard  and  reef  line  may  be  made 
fast  on  boom,  and  should  be  so  when  sail  is  stowed  away. 


Fig.  B. — "Mohican"  Sail     Single  Reef. 


This  sail  can  be  unshipped  and  stowed  exactly  as  the 
lateen,  and  with  the  same  advantages.     It  is  always  stowed 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  81 

on  deck,  made  fast  to  side  of  coaming;  and  it  has  the  reefing 
advantages  of  the  balance  lug,  the  short  boom,  and  the  height 
to  catch  light  winds,  with  none  of  the  disadvantages  as  to 
many  ropes  and  high  masts. 


Fig.  C. — "Mohican"  Sail.    Double  Reef 

A  is  the  jaw;    B,   tlie  spar  or  topmast;    C,  the  boom. 

Fig.  B  shows  sail  with  one  reef  and  Fig.   C,  with  two. 

First  reef  can  be  taken  in  before  the  wind;  second  reef  can 


83  SAILS  AND  RIGGINO. 

not,  unless  first  rnef  is  repeated  with  a  parallel  batten. 
In  case  leg  o'  mutton  form  of  sail  is  used  the  area  is  much 
reduced,  but  ail  but  No.  4  batten  may  be  omitted,  and  the 
sail  made  fast  to  spar  B  by  rings,  and  hoisted  and  lowered 
as  in  ordinary  leg  b'  mutton  sails. 

The  old  sliding  gunter  is  no  longer  used,  as  it  was  difficult 
either  to  hoist  or  lower  the  topmast  with  any  pressure  of 
wind  on  the  sail.  Within  the  past  year  (1888;  tbe  gunter  rig 
has  been  revived,  with  better  results,  see  page  192. 

On  a  canoe,  the  nearer  the  sails  approach  a  square,  the 
shorter  boom  and  yard  they  require  for  any  given  area,  and 
the  easier  they  are  to  handie  and  stow.  All  things  con- 
siilered,  there  is  no  sail  so  easily  set,  reefed  or  furled  as  the 
simple  standing  lug.  The  head  of  the  sail  is  laced  to  a  yard 
on  which  a  ring  b  is  lashed,  while  the  foot  is  laced  to  a  boom, 
in  the  forward  end  of  which  an  eye  i3  spliced.  On  the  mast 
is  a  brass  traveler  a,  formed  of  a  ring  to  which  a  hook  is 
brazed.  An  eye  is  formed  on  the  upper  part  of  the  hook  in 
which  the  halliard  c  is  spliced,  while  the  downhaul  e  is 
spliced  to  the  hook  itself. 

The  halliard  and  downhaul  are  sometimes  in  one  piece,  the 
lead  being  from  eye  in  traveler  through  block  at  masthead, 
thence  through  double  block  at  foot  of  mast  to  cleat  on  side 
deck;  thence  through  double  block  again  and  to  hook  of 
traveler,  the  latter  part  forming  a  downhaul.  The  tack  d  is 
an  endless  line  rove  through  a  single  block  on  deck  at  the 
foot  of  the  mast  and  a  screweye  near  the  well,  and  having  a 
toggle  spliced  into  it.  To  set  sail  it  is  taken  from  below,  the 
eye  in  the  end  of  boom  toggled  to  the  tack,  hauled  out  and 
belayed,  then  the  yard  is  lifted,  the  ring  hooked  on  to  the 
traveler,  and  the  halliard  hauled  taut  and  belayed.  The 
downhaiil  is  led  outside  of  the  sail,  the  latter  always  being  on 
the  same  side  of  the  mast. 

Where  a  large  area  is  to  be  carried,  as  in  racing,  the  best 
sail  is,  beyond  all  question,  the  balance  lug,  a  modification  of 
the  sails  long  in  use  in  China,  which  was  introduced  to 
canoeists  some  fifteen  years  ago.     In  this  sail  a  portion  pro- 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING. 


84  SAILS  AND  RIGGING. 

jects  forward  of  the  mast,  greatly  lessening  the  outboard 
weight  when  running  free,  as  well  as  the  length  of  the  boom. 
The  sail  is  spread  on  a  yard  and  boom,  as  the  standing  lug, 
but  is  so  hung  that  a  portion  hangs  forward  of  the  mast, 
about  one-seventh  to  one-eighth  of  the  boom  being  forward ; 
thus,  u  sail  of  7ft.  on  the  foot  will  have  no  longer  boom 
when  running  free  than  an  ordinary  sail  of  6ft.  on  the 
foot. 

To  handle  a  large  sail  quickly  and  certainly  a  number  of 
lines  are  needed,  some  of  which  maybe  dispensed  with  at  the 
■will  of  the  skipper,  but  we  will  give  all  in  the  description. 

One  peculiarity  of  these  sails,  a  feature  also  derived  from 
the  Chinese,  is  that  they  have  a  light  batten  sewn  in  a  hem 
on  the  sail  at  every  reef,  keeping  the  sail  very  flat,  and  per- 
mitting the  use  of  reefing  gear  instead  of  the  ordinary  reef- 
points. 

The  sail  always  remains  on  the  same  side  of  the  mast,  on 
either  tack,  being  permanently  hung  there.  On  the  yard 
just  forward  of  the  mast  is  a  short  piece  of  line  {g),  having 
an  eye  in  one  end,  and  a  wooden  toggle  in  the  other,  and  abaft 
the  mast  is  a  thimble,  k.  The  end  of  the  halliard  has  an 
eye  spliced  in  it,  then  in  setting  sail — supposing,  as  is  usually 
the  case,  that  the  sail  is  on  the  port  side — the  halliard  ia 
passed  through  the  eye  1c,  around  the  starboard  side  of  the 
mast,  and  toggled  to  the  eye  in  the  line  g. 

The  boom  is  rigged  in  a  similar  manner,  with  thimble  {k) 
and  tack,  the  latter,  about  5  ft.  long,  being  spliced  to  the  boom 
at  I,  and  leading  around  starboard  side  of  mast  through  k 
and  block  m  on  deck,  to  cleat;  or  the  tack  may  be  fast  at  I, 
lead  through  a  thimble  lashed  at  starboard  side  of  mast,  then 
through  eye  k  and  to  cleat  on  boom.  In  these  sails  the  luff 
must  be  set  up  very  taut  to  keep  them  flat,  so  the  tack  and 
halliard  gear  must  be  strong. 

On  each  batten  a  short  line  (o),  called  a  parrel,  is  made  fast 
just  forward  of  the  mast,  fastening  with  a  toggle  to  an  eye 
(jo)  on  tbe  batten  abaft  the  mast,  allowing  such  play  as  is 
necessary  in  lowering  sail  or  reefing.  These  parrels  confine 
the  sail  to  the  mast,  keeping  it  flatter,  and  distributing  its 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING. 


86 


Balance  Lug  Sail. 


86  SAILS  AND  RIGGING. 

weight  more  uniformly  over  the  entire  length  of  the  mast, 
thus  easing  the  strain  on  the  masthead. 

A  topping  lift  is  usually  fitted,  being  in  two  parts,  one  on 
each  side  of  the  sail.  The  lower  ends  are  "crowsfeet,"  as 
shown,  the  main  lines  leading  through  a  block  at  the  mast 
head,  and  uniting  in  one  part,  which  leads  through  a  block 
at  the  deck  and  to  a  cleat. 

Another  line,  t,  called  a  jackstay,  is  made  fast  to  the  mast- 
head, leads  down  outside  of  the  sail,  and  is  made  fast  to  the 
mast  iust  above  the  boom,  or  it  may  be  led  through  a  thim- 
ble on  the  boom  to  a  cleat.  Its  purpose  is  to  hold  up  the 
fore  end  of  the  boom  in  reefing  and  lowering  sail.  A  down- 
haul  is  also  rigged  to  gather  in  the  sail  quickly,  especially  in 
case  of  an  upset.  It  is  made  fast  to  the  yard  near  the  eyn,  h, 
and  leads  through  a  screweyc  or  block  on  deck.  The  miiin 
sheet  is  made  fast  to  a  span,  or  for  a  large  sail  a  single  block 
travels  on  the  span,  and  the  sheet  is  rove  through  it,  one  end 
of  the  latter  having  an  eye  in  it.  When  running  free,  the 
entire  length  of  sheet  is  used,  the  eye  bringing  up  in  the 
block  and  preventing  it  unreeving,  but  when  closehauled  the 
eye  is  hooked  over  a  cleat  on  the  afterdeck,  and  the  sheet  is 
used  double,  giving  a  greater  purchase  and  taking  in  the  slack. 

For  racing  with  very  large  sails,  backstays  are  some- 
times necessary,  leading  from  the  masthead  to  the  deck 
on  each  side,  one  being  slacked  off,  and  the  other  set  up,  in 
jibing.  When  not  in  use,  the  slack  is  taken  up  by  a  rubber 
band.  In  rigging  the  mizzen,  the  jackstay  and  backstay  are 
omitted,  and  the  topping  lift  is  a  standing  one,  made  fast  to 
masthead  and  boom,  the  sheet  being  single.  * 

The  following  method  of  handling  a  balance  lugsail,  writ- 
ten by  Mr.  E.  B.  Tredwen,  and  published  in  the  London  F^dd 
some  time  since,  refers  both  to  the  large  racing  sails,  and  to  a 
cruising  rig  also :  "The  difficulty  which  is  experienced  by 
many  canoeists,  appears  to  arise  from  the  needless  labor  of 
taking  off  the  sail  every  time  the  canoe  is  housed.  I  have 
always  found  it  best  to  keep  a  mast  for  each  sail,  a  cruising 
mast  and  a  racing  mast,  and  the  respective  sails  are  never 
taken  off  their  masts  except  for  washing  or  repairing.     Simi- 

*A  later  and  improved  form  of  balance  lug  is  described  on 
page  225. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  St 

larly  the  mast  which  has  been  last  used  on  the  canoe  is 
always  put  away  with  the  canoe,  either  unstcpping  it,  and 
laying  it  on  deck,  or  lowering  it  (if  a  lowering  mast  be  used) 
and  letting  it  lie  with  a  lashing  to  keep  it  in  place. 

If,  however,  the  canoe  must  be  left  in  the  open,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  remove  the  mast  and  sail,  which  is  very  easily  done. 
Having  finished  sailing  and  come  alongside  the  boat  house, 
the  topping  lift  is  I'.t  go  and  the  after  end  of  the  boom  comes 
on  deck;  then  the  tack  must  be  slacked,  or  if  the  tack  is  a 
fixture,  the  jackstay  must  be  slacked  a  few  inches.  The 
reeflines  should  next  be  gathered  together,  and  stowed  into 
a  fold  of  the  sail,  the  halliard  and  hauling  part  of  the  top- 
ping lift,  similarly  stowed  in  a  fold  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  sail,  and  the  main  sheet  cast  three  or  four  times  around 
all. 

All  the  lines  leading  to  the  masthead  (topping  lift,  halliards, 
etc.)  should  then  be  gathered  to  the  mast  about  two  feet 
above  deck  and  a  tyer  put  around.  The  after  end  of  the 
sail  can  now  be  brought  up  to  the  mast  and  tied  there,  and 
the  whole  let  run  into  a  long  bag  and  stowed  away  in  the 
boat  house. 

When  next  going  out  for  a  sail,  the  mast  is  stepped,  the 
tie  of  the  boom  end  to  the  mast  let  go,  and  the  sail  brought 
down  to  the  deck,  the  mainsheet  cleared  from  around  the 
call,  the  topping  lift  set  up,  and  the  reeflines  allowed  to  lie 
in  the  fore  end  of  the  well.  The  jackstay  being  set  up, 
sail  may  be  hoisted  at  once.  The  trouble  when  under  way 
of  reeving  two  reeflines  tlirough  two  screweyes,  and  knot- 
ting the  ends  for  the  sake  of  keeping  them  in  their  places, 
appears  to  be  a  detail  scarcely  worth  discussion. 

If  the  mast  and  sail  are  not  taken  off  the  boat  at  the  end 
of  the  sail,  there  is  not  even  the  trouble  of  untying  the  knots 
in  the  ends  of  the  lines.  When  my  canoe  sails  have  not 
been  put  away  by  a  stranger,  I  can  always  gtt  under  sail  in 
five  minutes. 

In  a  cruising  sail  there  is  no  necessity  for  the  tack  to  lead 
along  the  deck,  or  even  along  the  boom.  I  have  always 
cruised  with  a  fixed  tack  about  Gin.  long,  made  fast  to  the 


88  CENTERBOARDS. 

lug  of  a  triple  pulley  on  the  mast  for  the  reefing  gear  to  lead 
through. 

The  only  occasion  on  which  the  tack  need  be  started  is  in 
racing,  when  the  wind  is  very  light  and  the  canoe  is  sailing 
between  high  banlis.  The  tack  may  then  be  eased  up  until 
the  yard  is  hoisted  chock  ablock,  so  as  to  get  the  sail  as  high 
as  possible ;  at  all  other  times  a  standing  tack  will  do  with- 
out any  part  on  deck. " 


CENTERBOARDS. 


In  all  decked  canoes  of  classes  A  and  B,  which  include 
probably  two-thirds  of  the  canoes  used  in  America,  sail- 
ing qualities  have  of  late  been  considered  as  of  even  more 
importance  than  paddling,  and  the  sailing  powers  of  these 
boats  have  been  developed  to  an  extent  never  thought  of  by 
the  first  canoeists.  Almost  the  first  quality  in  a  sailing  boat 
is  its  lateral  resistance,  by  reason  of  which  it  can  be  sailed 
to  windward,  and  to  secure  enough  in  a  canoe  one  of  two 
things  is  necessary,  a  fixed  keel,  or  a  centerboard;  the  lee 
board  being  too  clumsy  a  device  to  be  of  use  in  a  canoe, 
though  at  one  time  occasionally  used.  An  exception  may 
be  made  here  to  the  double  leeboard  used  on  the  Canadian 
canoes,  which  may  be  handled  on  an  open  canoe, 
but  will  not  answer  for  a  decked  one.  There  are  a  number 
of  considerations  on  both  sides  of  the  question  of  keel  vs. 
centerboard,  and  as  no  general  rule  is  possible,  we  will  notice 
the  leading  points  on  either  side,  leaving  the  canoeist  to  de- 
cide for  himself  after  weighing  them. 

First — efficiency;  the  two  are  about  equal  as  to  lateral 
resistance  and  handling  if  the  keel  be  rockered,  otherwise  the 
centerboard  boat  will  turn  more  easily,  and  the  double  board 
is  decidedly  better  than  the  keel  when  running  free.  Second 
— strength  and  weight;  the  keel  boat  will  be  stronger  and 
lighter  than  any  centerboard  boat  can  be,  but  the  latter  can 
be  built  strong  enough  without  being  too  heavy.  Third — 
durabiUty ;  the  keel  is  not  liable  to  accident  and  derangement  as 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  89 

all  boards  arc.and  there  is  less  danger  of  leakage,  while  the  boat 
■will  stand  more  rough  usage.  Fourth— cxpeuse;  the  keel  will 
cost  usually  from  $15  1o  $25  less  than  a  boar;l  of  proper  con- 
struction. Fifth — convenience;  the  keel  boat  gives  more 
room  inside,  but  will  not  stand  upright  on  shore  as  the  flat- 
bottomed  centerboard  will,  which  is  a  great  disadvantage  in 
landing,  sleeping  on  shore  and  in  packing  stores  aboard, 
and  sometimes  dangerous  in  running  aground.  On  the  other 
hand,  a  flat  keel,  as  now  built  for  centerboard,  allows  the 
canoe  to  rest  in  an  upright  position  when  on  land,  a  very 
great  convenience. 

Whatever  style  of  board  may  be  adopted,  to  secure  the 
best  results  it  must  be  placed  as  nearly  as  possible  in  the 
proper  position ;  but  again  the  question  of  a(!Commodation 
comes  in.  The  best  position  for  a  board  is.  i n  most  boats, 
with  the  center  of  its  immersed  portion  a  little  forward  of  the 
center  of  lateral  resistance  of  the  hull  and  the  center  of  effort 
of  the  sails;  but  in  a  canoe,  in  order  to  obtain  room  for  sit- 
ting and  sleeping,  the  board  must  be  considerably  forward 
of  this  if  a  trunk  is  required  for  it,  and  it  may  bs  moved  for- 
ward without  much  harm,  provided  the  aftersail  is  reduced 
in  conseoueuce.  The  only  detriment  to  this  plan  would  be 
that  while  the  boat  would  balance  properly  on  a  wind  with 
the  board  down,  she  would  need  a  larger  mizzen  when  in 
shoal  water  with  board  up.  To  avoid  tliis  disadvantage  two 
plans  are  adopted,  either  to  place  the  board  well  forward  and 
add  a  second  board  aft,  or  to  use  a  folding  board  that  will 
not  require  a  large  trunk,  and  may  be  placed  in  any  part  of 
the  boat.  Of  the  latter  class  of  boards  there  are  several  vari- 
eties, all  of  them  patented. 

The  question  of  weight  in  a  centerboard  is  also  an  import- 
ant one.  Most  sailing  canoes  require  some  ballast,  and  in 
this  form  it  can  be  carried  lower  than  in  any  other  way,  as 
a  drop  of  18in.  below  the  keel  is  allowed  by  the  rules.  The 
weight  being  so  low  down  will  make  the  boat  much  stiffer 
than  inside  ballast  can,  and  its  value  will  be  found  when 
running,  as  it  will  steady  the  boat  greatly.  The  extra 
weight  is  of  little  account  in  handling,  as  the  boards  may  be 


90  CENTERB0ARD8. 

lifted  out  on  landing  so  that  the  canoe  and  trunks -will  weigh 
nomoie  than  a  canoe  with  fixed  board.  Several  instances 
have  occurred  of  canoes  with  heavy  boards  capsizin:^  under 
racing  sail  until  water  poured  into  the  well,  but  coming  up 
safely  and  continuing. 

The  double  board  plan  presents  many  advantages  for  a 
canoe,  the  center  of  the  boat  is  entirely  clear  of  trunk,  lever 
or  gear,  leavirg  plenty  of  room  for  sleeping;  with  two 
boards,  if  properly  worked,  the  boat  may  be  handled  to  per- 
fection in  tacking,  the  canoe  falling  off  quickly  when  the 
forward  board  is  raised,  and  luffing  when  it  is  lowered  and 
the  after  one  raised,  while  in  running  free  the  after  board 
steadies  the  boat  greatly.  The  objection  on  the  score  of 
weight  is  but  small,  as  both  boards  may  be  lifted  out  easily, 
when  the  weight  of  the  two  trunks  is  no  more  than  that  of 
most  folding  boards,  while  the  boards  themselves  are  ballast 
in  its  best  shape.  The  smaller  or  after  board  will  weigh 
from  7  to  121bs.,  the  forward  one  from  15  to  601bs.,  as  de- 
sired, or  for  light  winds  it  may  even  be  made  of  wood.  These 
boards  are  also  made  so  that  a  portion  of  the  weight  may  be 
removed,  as  will  be  described  further  on. 

The  first  point  of  importance  in  building  a  centerboard 
boat  is  the  trunk  for  the  board.  In  a  boat  of  any  eize,  a 
sloop  or  catboat,  of  16ft.  or  upward,  the  trunk  would  be 
composed  of  two  pieces  of  oak  called  bed  pieces  as  long  as 
the  trunk,  and  for  a  small  sailboat,  2x4in.  placed  oa  edge 
and  bolted  to  the  keel  on  each  side  of  the  slot,  strips  of  can- 
ton flannel,  painted  with  thick  white  lead,  being  laid  between 
them  and  the  keel.  At  each  end  of  the  slot  are  "headledges" 
also  of  oak,  8  or  Sin.  wide,  in  a  fore  and  aft  direction,  and 
as  thick  as  the  width  of  the  slot,  which  should  be  large 
enough  to  allow  for  the  board  swelUng  when  wet.  The  slot 
being  cut  in  the  keel  the  headledges  are  driven  into  it  at  each 
end  and  a  rivet  pui  through  each  and  the  keel,  then  the  bed- 
pieces  are  put  in  place  with  the  flannel  between  and  bolted 
down  to  the  keel,  rivets  being  also  driven  through  their 
ends  and  the  headledges.  The  sides  of  the  trunk  are  made 
of  dry  pine  from  1  to  l^ins.  thick  for  a  sailboat,  riveted  at 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  91 

the  ends  to  the  headledges,   the  seams  between  the  sides  and 
the  bed  pieces  being  caulked. 

Such  a  construction  is  too  heavy,  and,  besides,  unneces- 
sary in  a  light  boat;  the  headledges  (a  a)  are  retained,  but  no 
bedpieces  are  put  in.  The  headledges  will  be  from  f  to  fin. 
thick,  according  to  the  thickness  of  the  board,  and  l^in. 
wide,  of  spruce.  They  are  set  into  the  keel  (6)  as  shown 
in  Fig.  11,  and  also  in  plate  on  next  page.  The  sides 
of  the  trunk  are  of  well-seasoned  and  clear  wood,  usually 
white  pine,  although  mahogany  is  more  durable.  A  tongue 
i3  planed  on  the  lower  edge,  iin.  wide  and  deep  (see 
Fig.  11),  and  a  corresponding  groove  is  plouglied  on 
each  side  of  the  slot.  The  sides  are  fin.  thick  on  lower 
edge,  for  a  large  board,  but  may  be  tapered  down  to  |in.  at 
the  top,  as  shown,  to  save  unnecessary  weight.  Some  care 
and  neatnfiss  is  required  to  make  tight  work ;  the  sides  are 
tongued  on  their  lower  edges,  then  fastened  together,  side  by 
side,  with  a  few  small  brads,  and  cut  to  the  same  shape; 
then  the  insides  are  painted,  a  strip  of  brass  being  first 
screwed  to  the  inside  of  cncb  to  prevent  wear,  then  they  are 
carefully  adjusted,  with  the  headledges  in  place  between 
them,  and  a  few  screws  put  in  temporarily  to  hold  them 
while  riveting.  They  are  then  fastened  together  by  copper 
nails  through  sides  and  headledges,  about  l^in.  apart,  the 
nails  being  also  riveted  over  burrs.  Two  or  three  pieces  of 
wood,  as  thick  as  the  headledges,  are  now  laid  in  the  trunk 
to  prevent  it  or  the  keel  fiom  coming  together  in  planking, 
and  are  not  removed  until  the  boat  is  finished,  or  the  trunk 
may  close  slightly.  Now  the  grooves  in  the  keel  are  painted 
with  thick  white  lead,  the  trunk  is  driven  down  into  place 
and  clamped  fast,  rivets  are  put  through  the  keel  and  each 
headledge,  then  the  holes  are  bored  for  the  screws.  These 
latter  are  of  brass,  ,\'  toiin.  diameter  and  S^in.  long.  The 
hok'O  are  bored  full  depth  with  a  small  bit,  then  a  larger  one 
is  run  in  for  a  distance  equal  to  the  shank  of  the  screw,  the 
latter  is  screwed  firmly  in  and  filed  smooth.  In  fastening 
such  work  all  joints  that  are  painted  must  be  thoroughly 
fastened  while  the  paint  is  fresh,  or  they  will  leak.     The 


92 


CBNTERB0ARD8. 


^^^^ 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  93 

after  trunk  will  come  on  the  deadwoods,  and  it  may  be 
necessary  to  set  in  a  solid  bedpiecc,  on  which  the  trunk  is 
set.  a.s  above,  the  sides,  however,  being  thinner. 

Trunks  are  sometimes  made  of  galvanized  iron,  but  are 
liable  to  rust  and  are  not  as  good  as  wood.  If  the  sides  of 
the  trunk  are  thick  enough  holes  are  sometimes  bored  through 
them  from  top  to  bottom  and  bolts  driven  down  through  the 
keel,  preventing  them  from  splitting.  In  canoes  the  trunks 
are  usually  open  on  top,  so  that  the  boards  may  be  lifted  out. 

The  after  board  may  be  of  zinc,  galvanized  iron  or  cop- 
per iin.  thick,  about  15  to  18in.  long.  It  is  hung  by  two 
strips  of  brass  |x^in.,  or  even  thinner,  one  on  each  side  of 
the  board,  to  which  they  are  fastened  by  a  rivet  through 
both  and  the  corner  of  the  board.  At  the  top  they  are  both 
riveted  to  a  small  handle,  by  which  they  may  be  lifted  out 
A  braided  cord  is  used  to  raise  ar.d  lower  the  board,  being 
spUced  into  a  brass  ey<i  in  the  after  upper  corner.  This  cord 
runs  over  a  brass  pulley  fitted  on  deck,  which  is  also  movable. 

The  heavy  boards  are  usually  of  plate  iron  galvanized, 
and  are  from  \  to  \\n.  thick,  the  latter  weighing  60  pounds. 
A  square  board,  as  is  usual  in  sailboats,  would  bring  too 
much  weight  at  the  top,  to  avoid  which  that  portion  of  the 
board  within  the  case  is  cut  away  until  only  an  arm,  suffi- 
cient to  steady  the  board  in  the  case,  is  left.  The  board  is 
first  cut  to  shape  out  of  boiler  plate  of  the  required  thick- 
ness, then  it  is  filed  smooth  at  all  corners  and  angles  and  re- 
duced to  a  thickness  of  i^-in.  at  the  upper  after  corner 
where  the  lifting  gear  is  fastened,  and  at  the  lower  forward 
corner  where  the  pin  hole  is.  Next  the  board  is  galvanized 
and  then  it  is  ready  for  the  fittings.  Sometimes  cast-iron  is 
used,  but  it  is  liable  to  break.  The  Pearl  canoe  has  two 
boards  of  Muntz  metal,  one  of  68  pounds  for  racing. 

Another  form  of  board,  in  which  the  frame  work  is  ol 
wrought  iron,  with  sides  of  sheet  iron,  leaving  a  space  inside 
in  which  a  plate  of  lead  can  be  inserted,  is  shown  in  th3 
Appendix.  By  this  device  a  light  or  heavy  board  can  be 
had.  while  the  weight  is  divided  for  carrying.  If  the  board 
be  fixed  in  the  canoe.a  brass  bolt  is  put  through  it  and  the 


94  CENTERBOARDS. 

trunk,  on  which  it  turns,  but  the  usual  plan  is  to  fit  the  board 
to  lift  out.  The  board  is  hung  from  a  brass  rod,  or  between 
two  brass  strip?  ^//),  as  described  for  the  small  board,  the 
top  havinfc  a  hjiadle  {g),  and  also  a  catch  to  prevent  the 
lifting  rod  from  pulling  forward.  A.  small  brass  chock  {h) 
is  screwed  to  the  inside  of  the  trunk  to  prevent  the  lifting  rod 
slipping  aft.  A  rivet  is  also  put  through  the  keel  to  retain 
the  lower  end  of  the  rod.  If  the  board  docs  not  weigh  over 
thirty  pounds  it  is  raised  and  lowered  by  a  single  pennant  of 
braided  cord.  Two  brass  plates  are  rivetted,  one  on  each 
side  of  the  board,  at  its  upper  after  corner,  and  a  brass 
thimble  in  which  the  lifting  line  is  spliced,  plays  on  a  rivet 
through  their  upper  ends.  A  pulley  is  placed  o.a  deck,  from 
which  the  cord  leads  to  a  cleat. 

For  ii  heavier  board  a  purchase  must  be  used,  a  chain  made 
of  flat  links  side  by  side,  is  fastened  to  the  centerboard  by 
two  large  links,  a  rubber  ball  is  then  slipped  on  to  the  chain 
to  act  as  a  buffer,  and  a  single  brass  block  is  lashed  to  the 
end  of  the  chain.  The  deck  pulley  (A)  over  which  the  chain 
runs  has  a  sheave  with  a  square  groove  to  take  the  chain, 
and  is  also  fitted  so  as  to  slide  into  place  on  deck,  or  be 
readily  removed,  without  talking  it  off  the  chain.  A  brass 
block  is  also  lashed  to  the  lifting  rod  at  deck,  and  the  line  is 
rove  by  making  one  end  fast  to  the  tail  of  this  block,  leading 
through  the  other  block,  on  the  chain,  and  back  through  the 
first  block,  thence  to  a  cleat.  By  taking  hold  of  the  chain 
near  the  pulley  with  one  hand,  and  of  the  lilting  handle 
with  the  other,  the  pulley  may  be  disengaged  and  the  board 
readily  hfted  out. 

RUDDERS. 

It  is  most  essential  to  the  safety  of  a  canoe  that  there  shall 
be  some  means  of  steering  besides  the  paddle.  The  boat 
is  ?o  long  that  it  cannot  be  turned  quickly  by  the  latter,  the 
leverage  being  comparatively  short,  and  on  all  but  the 
smallest  Rob  Roys  a  rudder  is  a  prime  necessity.  The  first 
canoes  were  built  with  stem  and  stern  nearly  alike,  both  with 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  95 

a  long  curve,  to  which  il  was  very  difficult  to  fit  a  rudder. 
One  plan  was  to  use  a  curved  rudder  and  braces  fitted  to 
turn,  but  such  a  rudder  is  cot  only  difficult  to  ship  but  will 
unship  itself  on  the  least  provocation.  In  another  plan  a 
false  stern  was  made  fitting  the  sternpost,  to  which  it  was 
fastened,  but  straight  on  its  after  edge,  to  which  the  rudder 
was  hung.  This  plan  also  was  clumsy  and  unsatisfactory, 
and  finally  discarded.  Another  plan  was  to  use  a  long  arm 
for  the  lower  brace,  projecting  three  or  four  inches  from  the 
eternpost,  so  that  the  rudder  hung  vertically ;  but  this,  too., 
is  now  little  used.  For  many  years  the  sternposts  have  been 
straight,  though  mostly  set  at  an  angle  to  the  keel,  as  in  the 
old  Shadows,  giving  a  good  support  for  a  rudder.  There 
was  a  decided  objection  to  this  plan,  however,  as  it  was 
very  difficult  to  launch  the  canoe  from  a  bank  or  dock  if  the 
water  was  shoal,  the  sternpost  sticking  in  the  mud  and.  la 
addition,  it  made  the  canoe  hard  to  turn  round.  To  obviate 
these  objections  and  yet  allow  the  rudder  to  hang  properly 
without  causing  a  drag,  as  it  will  on  a  curved  or  raking 
sternpost,  some  canoes  of  late  have  had  the  siernpost  vei'ti- 
cal,  or  nearly  so,  from  the  water  up,  giving  7  to  9in.  to  sup- 
port the  rudder,  but  below  the  water  the  heel  is  rounded 
quickly  away  into  the  rocker  of  the  keel,  allowing  the  boat 
to  be  pushed  stern  first  into  mud  without  sticking  fast,  and 
also  increasing  the  ease  of  turning. 

In  form  the  rudder,  especially  for  rough  water,  should 
drop  below  the  level  of  the  keel  several  inches,  so  as  to  have 
a  good  hold  on  the  water,  even  when  the  boat  is  pitching 
among  waves.  With  this  form  of  rudder,  shown  in  the 
large  plates  of  canoes,  a  tricing  line  is  sometimes  used,  being 
made  fast  to  the  rudder,  and  running  over  a  sheive  in  the 
sternpost  at  d;3ck,  by  means  of  which  the  rudder  may  be 
raised  in  shoal  water.  The  idea  of  a  drop  rudder  in  two 
parts  is  not  new,  but  its  practical  application  to  canoes  is  of 
recent  date,  one  of  the  firbt  having  been  fitted  to  the  Atalan- 
tis  by  Mr.  S.  R.  Stoddard  in  1883.  These  rudders,  now 
coming  into  general  use,  are  made  of  sheet  brass,  as  shown 
in   the  drawing,  a  portion  being  fitted  on    a   pivot  like 


96  RUDDERS. 

a  centerboard,  allowing  it  to  drop  to  a  distance  or  to  rise  on 
striking  any  obstacle,  while  it  may  be  raised  by  a  line  from 
the  well.  This  rudder  acts,  to  a  certain  extent,  as  an  after 
centerboard,  allowing  the  centerboard  proper  to  be  placed 
further  forward  than  would  otherwise  be  possible.  Besides 
this  it  has  a  further  advantage,  that  on  most  canoes  it  may 
be  so  proportioned  as  to  fold  up,  leaving  nothing  below  the 
water-line,  thus  obviating  to  a  great  extent  the  necessity  for 
removing  the  rudder  at  all,  as  the  boat  may  be  launched  with 
the  rudder  attached,  but  folded  up  so  as  not  to  strilce  bot- 
tom. If  the  rudder  and  j'^oke  arc  both  strongly  made,  they 
offer  excellent  handles  by  which  to  lift  the  after  end  of  the 
canoe.  The  stock  of  the  rudder  is  made  of  one  piece  of 
sheet  brass  doubled,  the  rod  on  which  Ihe  rudder  hangs  run- 
ning down  inside  the  seam  as  shown.  The  top  of  each  side 
is  turned  down  horizontally,  and  to  the  two  the  rudder-yoke 
is  rivctted.  The  drop  portion  of  the  rudder  fits  between  the 
two  sides,  a  bolt  or  rivet  passing  through  the  three.* 

The  usual  way  of  hanging  the  common  rudder  by  pintles 
and  braces,  is  shown  also.  A  better  plan  is  to  have  two 
braces  on  the  rudder,  as  well  as  two  on  the  sternpost,  with 
a  rod  of  I'.n.  brass  running  down  through  them,  allowing  the 
rudd(,r  to  rise  up,  but  not  to  unship.  An  old  but  very  good 
plan  is  shown  at  m.  On  the  rudder  are  two  braces,  each 
with  a  hole  through  it.  A  similar  brace  is  placed  below  on 
the  sternpost  and  a  brass  rod  is  screwed  or  riveted 
permanently  into  it.  The  upper  end  of  the  rod  is  held 
by  a  flat  strip  of  brass,  in,  brszed  to  it,  while  in  the  lower 
brace,  n,  on  rudder,  is  a  slot,  allowing  it  to  slide  past  m  on 
the  rod. 

The  rudder  yoke  should  be  strong  and  well  proportioned, 
as  it  sometimes  receives  heavy  blows.  The  arms  need  not 
be  over  4^  to  5in.  long  each,  as  the  shorter  length  will  give 
power  enough.  Sometimes  instead  of  a  yoke  a  grooved 
wheel  is  fitted  to  the  rudder  head,  the  lines  running  in  the 
groove.    This  gives  control  of  the  rudder  in  any  position, 

*  See  page  198. 


AMATEUB  CANOE  BUILDING.  97 

even  when  backing,  and  has  another  advantage  in  that  the 
mizzen  sheet  cannot  foul  and  the  yoke  cannot  catch  in  lines 
or  bashes.* 


TABERNACLES. 

It  is  now  considered  necessary  in  order  to  spar  a  canoe  to 
the  best  advantage,  to  place  the  masts  so  near  the  ends  that 
it  is  very  difficult,  or  even  impossible  to  unship  them  when 
afloat,  especially  in  rough  water.  The  requirements,  both  of 
convenience  and  safety,  however,  dictate  that  they  must  be 
capable  of  being  lowered,  both  for  bridges,  trees,  warps  and 
when  in  very  rough  water.  The  arrangements  by  which 
this  end  is  attained  are  called  tabernacles,  several  styles  of 
which  are  shown.  In  one  form  the  deck  is  not  cut,  but  the 
heel  of  the  mast  is  pivoted  between  two  pieces  of  oak,  (^)  each 
2^xiin.  above  deck,  fastened  securely  to  the  keel  and  pro- 
jecting 4^  to  rjin.  above  deck.  These  pieces  are  covered 
above  deck  with  sheet  brass  -,Vin.  thick,  and  the  heel  of  the 
mast  is  bound  with  the  same  to  prevent  splitting.  A  pin  or 
bolt  of  fin.  brass  goes  through  the  three,  the  mast  turning  on 
it.  The  after  side  of  the  tabernacle  is  also  of  ^in.  oak,  pro- 
jecting l^in.  above  deck,  or  enough  to  catch  the  heel  of  the 
mast  and  prevent  the  later  from  going  forward.  The  mast 
is  raised  and  supported  by  a  forestay  and  tackle  from  the 
stemhead,  to  permit  which,  the  sail,  if  a  balance  lug,  must 
have  a  great  peak. 

Another  simple  form  was  fitted  to  a  canoe  in  1880  by  the 
writer.  A  triangular  box  was  set  in  the  forward  part  of  the 
canoe,  fastened  at  the  bottom  to  the  keel,  and  at  the  top  to 
the  deck,  in  which  a  slot  was  cut,  as  wide  as  the  mast  and 
about  1ft.  long,  the  box,  of  course,  being  of  the  same  width 
inside.  In  practice,  the  canoeist,  seated  in  the  well,  could 
place  the  mast  in  the  box,  leaving  it,  for  paddling,  lying  at 
an  angle  of  45  degrees,  but  when  desired  to  raise  it,  by  going 
on  the  knees  the  mast  could  be  thrown  easily  into  an  up- 
right position,  and  held  by  a  wooden  cliock  (o)  slipped  into  the 
£lo<i  behind  it.  This  chock,  with  its  sides  proiecting  over 
*  See  page  190. 


TABERNACLES. 


A }fA  TEUR  CA NOE  B UILDINO.  99 

the  slot,  completely  covered  it,  and  kept  out  all  water. 
When  the  mast  was  not  in  use,  its  place  wag  taken  by  a 
square  plujj.  The  chock  was  fitted  at  its  fore  end  to  slide 
under  two  screw  heads  which  held  it  down,  and  its  aftei 
end  was  kept  down  with  a  brass  button. 

Another  and  better  form  of  tabernacle  is  that  devised  by 
Mr.  Tredwen  and  fitted  to  the  Pearl  canoes.  This  is  a  square 
box  15  to  18in.  long,  as  wide  as  the  diameter  of  the  mast 
and  as  deep  as  can  be  fitted  to  the  boat.  It  i3  lined  with 
sheet  copper  and  provided  with  a  drain  (;•)  at  the  bottom. 
For  racing  piirpo^^es  two  light  boxes  of  wood  are  made,  wide 
enough  to  fit  in  the  tabernacle,  their  united  length  just  fill- 
ing the  remainder  of  the  box  when  the  mast  is  in  it.  If  the 
mast  is  to  be  set  forward,  both  boxes  are  slipped  in  behind 
it;  the  mast  may  be  set  aft,  the  boxes  being  forward  of  it, 
or  the  mast  may  be  placed  between  the  two  boxes.  By  this 
device  the  mast  may  be  tried  in  almost  any  position  until  its 
proper  place  is  found.  In  the  Pearl  the  large  and  small 
mainsails  are  both  used  with  the  same  mizzsn,  the  position 
of  the  sails  being  changed  so  that  both  will  balance  properly. 

In  cruising,  the  mast  is  fitted  to  lower  by  means  of  a  line 
from  the  well.  In  one  method  the  brass  band  to  which  the 
clocks  are  fastened  is  fitted  with  two  lugs  or  trunnions,  at 
the  height  of  the  deck.  These  lugs  engage  in  two  hooks 
screwed  to  the  deck  at  the  after  end  of  the  tabernacle,  being 
raised  by  a  heel  rope  led  over  a  sheave  in  the  heel  of  the 
mast,  thence  through  a  sheave  on  the  after  side  of  the  mast 
above  deck,  and  thence  through  a  sheave  forward  of  the 
tabernacle,  giving  a  very  powerful  purchase.  By  another 
plan  the  mast  is  hoisted  by  a  purchase  made  fast  at  the  stem 
head  and  also  to  the  mast  above  the  deck.  "With  either  of 
these  arrangements,  no  forestay  is  needed.  To  set  the  mast 
at  the  fore  end  of  the  tabernacle,  no  lugs  are  required,  but  a 
chock  is  dropped  into  the  bottom  to  prevent  the  heel 
from  coming  aft,  and  the  purchase  is  used  to  bring  the  mast 
upright  and  hold  it  there. 


TENTS   AND   CAMP  BEDS. 

A  tenl  of  some  kind  is  an  essential  part  of  the  outfit  ot 
every  canoeist,  as  he  never  knows  when  it  may  be  needed, 
even  on  a  short  trip.  A  head  wind,  foul  tide  or  sudden 
storm  may  make  it  impossible  to  reach  the  proposed  stopping 
place  8nd  force  the  canoeist  to  seek  refuge  for  a  night  or 
from  the  rain  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Tents  for  canoes  are  of  three  kinds:  First,  a  small  shelter, 
merely  for  sleeping  under;  second,  a  square  tent,  high 
enough  to  sit  under  and  to  cook  or  read  in;  third,  shore 
tents  large  enough  for  two  or  three.  The  simplest  of  all  is 
improvised  from  a  rubber  blanket  hung  over  a  boom  or 
paddle,  one  end  of  which  is  lashed  to  the  mizzenmast  the 
other  resting  on  the  deck.  The  sides  will  need  to  be  tied 
down  or  kept  in  place  by  stones.  A  better  device  is  the 
shelter  used  on  the  Windward;  shown  in  the  drawing.  This 
tent  has  a  ridge  rope,  one  end  of  which  is  hooked  to  an  eye 
or  cleat  at  fore  end  of  well,  the  other  end  being  made  fast 
to  the  mizzenmast  about  3ft.  above  deck.  The  cover  is  a 
piece  of  sheeting  or  drilling  hemmed  around  the  edges,  with 
a  hem  also  down  the  center  in  which  the  ridge  rope  is  run. 
A  triangular  piece  is  fitted  to  the  after  end,  running  across 
the  foot,  and  tapes  are  sewn  at  inter^^als  along  the  edges  to 
tic  down  with.  This  tent,  shown  with  the  fiap  open,  makes 
a  good  shelter  and  sheds  rain  well,  but  is  hardly  roomy 
enough  where  much  sleeping  aboard  is  done.  It  has,  how- 
ever three  advantages,  in  being  easily  set  and  stowed,  taking 
up  little  room  in  the  canoe,  and  offering  httie  surface  when 
riding  head  to  wind. 

A  better  tent  on  the  same  plaa  is  made  with  the  top  trian- 
gular, the  after  end,  about  20in.  wide,  having  a  hem  in 
which  a  stick  is  inserted,  a  cord  from  each  end  of  the  stick 
'  running  lo  the  mast.  The  after  end  is  square  instead  of  tri- 
angular, and  the  sides  are  triangular,  all  coming  to  a  point 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  101 


Q4iA\oe  S^fc£t*v 


<^^^(^j6y\}0  "^  ^.o^l^C. 


102  TENTS  AND  CAMP  BEDS. 

at  the  fore  end.     This  tent  is  roomier  than  the  former,  but 
is  easily  set  and  stowed. 

Of  the  second  class  the  favorite  one  is  that  commonly 
known  as  the  Mohican,  but  first  used  by  Mr.  C.  L.  Norton 
on  the  Kittiwake.  This  tent  in  its  present  form  is  also 
shown.  The  top  piece  is  of  canvas,  22in.  wide  and  6  to 
7ft.  long.  At  each  end  a  hem  is  turned  in,  to  take  a  round 
stick,  fin.  in  diameter  and  22in.  long.  The  sides  and  ends 
of  the  tent  are  made  of  striped  awning  stuff,  which  comes 
29in  wide,  so  that  throe  breadths  may  be  used.  The  tent  is 
30in.  wide  at  bottom,  and  about  1ft.  longer  on  bottom  than 
on  top.  Tlie  sides  and  ends  are  sewed  together  at  the  cor- 
ners, but  the  middle  breadth  on  each  side  is  sewed  only  to 
the  top,  making  a  curtain  which  may  be  rolled  up,  as  shown. 
These  curtains  lap  over  the  adjoining  sides  a  little,  and  are 
provided  with  tapes  to  tie  them  fast.  The  bottom  of  the 
tent  is  fitted  with  grommets  which  hook  over  small  screw- 
heads  under  the  beading  of  the  deck.  The  tent  is  supported 
by  two  ropes  fastened  to  the  masts.  It  is  sometimes  desir- 
able to  have  small  windows  in  the  tent,  which  may  be  made 
of  circular  pieces  of  glass  2iin.  diameter,  each  having  two 
holes  drilled  near  the  edge  by  which  it  is  sewn  fast. 

For  use  on  shore  a  ground  cloth  2ix7ft.  may  be  used  under 
the  tent.  The  sides  should  be  about  Sin.  high,  to  keep  out 
rain  and  wind  under  the  sides.  The  floor  cloth  should  be 
waterproofed. 

In  another  form  of  tent  two  bamboo  uprights,  one  at  each 
ead  of  the  well,  are  used,  the  tent  being  square,  with  a 
rounded  top,  somewhat  like  a  wagon.  A  ridgepole,  jointed 
in  the  middle  for  stowage,  is  supported  on  the  uprights,  the 
tent  spread  over  these,  and  the  top  extended  by  four  strips 
of  bent  oak,  let  into  hems  across  the  top.  The  Pearl  canoe 
is  fitted  with  a  tent  of  this  description,  the  uprights  being 
made  in  two  pieces,  one  sliding  in  the  other,  so  that  by  ex- 
tending them  the  tent  is  raised,  for  cooking  or  reading,  but 
at  night  they  are  let  down,  making  the  tent  lower  and  less 
exposed  to  the  wind. 

An  A  tent  is  sometimes  fitted  to  a  canoe,  using  an  uprighf 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  108 

at  each  end  of  thft  well,  or  one  at  the  fore  end  and  the  miz- 
zennaast,  with  the  painter  stretched  across  as  a  rid^e  rope, 
but  a  wider  top,  as  shown  in  the  Mohican  tent,  is  better. 

For  shore  use  a  tent  is  usually  carried  large  enough  to  ac- 
commodate two  or  three  persons.  Tlie  simplest  form  is  the 
ordinary  A  tent,  made  about  ftjft.  square  at  the  bottom,  and 
6ft.  high.  It  is  supported  by  two  upright  poles  and  a  ridge 
pole,  or  the  latter  may  be  dispensed  with  and  a  ridge  rope 
used,  the  ends  being  made  fast  to  stakes  in  the  ground. 

A  better  and  roomier  form  is  the  wall  tent,  a  very  good 
style  being  that  devised  by  some  of  the  Clyde  C.  C.  This 
tent  is  usually  about  6ft.  wide,  7ft.  long,  and  6ft.  high,  the 
walls  being  2ft.  high.  The  bottom  is  sewn  to  the  sides 
and  ends,  except  the  flap,  which  serves  as  a  door,  thus  pre- 
venting all  drafts.  It  is  well  to  have  a  second  bottom  of 
light  stuff  laid  inside  over  the  main  one,  and  not  sewn  fast, 
so  that  it  may  be  lifted  out  for  cleaning  the  tent.  A  ridge 
pole  and  two  upright  poles,  all  jointed,  are  used.  Where 
the  walls  join  the  roof,  a  hem  2in.  wide  is  sewn,  and  in 
this  four  or  five  grommets  are  set  to  take  the  tent  ropes. 
The  tent  pins  are  of  iron  rod  I'm  ,  galvanized,  lOin.  long, 
with  the  upper  end  turned  into  a  ring  to  draw  them 
out  by.  A  flap  is  sometimes  made  in  each  side  of  the  roof 
for  ventilation.  In  setting  this  tent,  it  i=i  ixnfolded  on  the 
ground  and  each  corner  fastened  with  a  pin,  then  the  four 
pins  for  the  corner  ropes  are  driven,  each  at  the  proper  dis- 
tance from  its  corner,  which  will  be  found  the  first  time  that 
the  tent  is  set  and  marked  permanently  on  one  of  the  poles 
for  future  measurement ;  the  corner  ropes  are  made  fast  to 
the  pins,  allowing  slack  enough  to  hoist  the  tent,  then  the 
ridge  pole  is  run  through,  the  canoeist  goes  inside  the  tent, 
raises  the  after  end,  slips  the  upright  under  the  ridge  pole, 
walks  to  the  other  end,  holding  up  the  latter,  and  slips  in 
the  other  pole.  Now  the  corner  ropes  may  be  looked  over 
and  tightened,  the  remaining  pegs  driven  and  the  ropes  made 
fast  to  them,  and  the  ground  sheet  spread  inside.  The 
entire  operation,  if  the  tent  is  properly  folded,  can  be  per- 
formed by  one  man  in  five  minutes.     Sometimes  the  ridge 


104  TENTS  AND  CAMP  BEDS. 

pole  is  made  to  extend  about  18in.  beyond  tlie  front  of  the 
tent,  thus  keeping  the  upright  out  of  the  way  of  the  door. 
It  is  as  well  to  have  the  rear  upright  inside,  as  it  is  useful  to 
hang  clothes  on,  a  few  hooks  being  screwed  in  it.  It  will 
also  be  convenient  to  have  a  few  canvas  pockets  hung  to  the 
walls  for  brush,  and  comb,  etc. 

Canoeists  in  America  have  used  for  the  past  few  years  a 
yery  good  tent,  of  the  form  known  as  "Marquee."  The 
ground  space  may  be  7x7ft.,  the  height  to  peak  being  about 
the  same.  But  one  pole  is  needed,  which  is  in  the  center  of 
the  tent.  The  roof  portion  may  be  2|ft.  on  each  side,  and  is 
extended  by  four  small  sticks  running  from  the  central  pole 
to  each  corner.  The  four  lower  corners  are  first  staked 
down,  the  pole  is  slipped  into  the  center  of  the  roof,  raising 
the  latter,  then  the  four  sticks  are  pushed  into  place,  and  all 
is  ready.  These  tents  are  usually  made  without  a  bottom, 
but  a  ground  cloth  should  be  used  in  any  case. 

For  small  tents,  heavy  unbL  ached  sheeting  may  be  used, 
and  for  the  larger  ones  a  light  drill  or  duck.  To  render 
them  waterproof  they  may  be  coated  with  boiled  linseed  oil 
and  terebin,  one  gill  of  the  latter  to  two  quarts  of  oil,  two 
coats  being  sufHcient.  The  Mohican  tCLt  has  a  top  of  heavy 
canvas  and  sides  of  awning  stuff,  neither  being  waterproofed, 
and  the  marquees  are  generally  made  of  the  latter  material. 
If  a  stay  is  made  in  any  place  for  some  time,  the  shanty 
tent,  described  by  "JSfessmuk"  in  "Woodcraft,"  is  probably 
the  best  known,  but  in  canoeing  the  halts  are  usually  but  for 
a  day  or  two,  and  often  for  a  night,  so  the  tent  must  be 
quickly  set  and  stowed. 

Next  to  the  question  of  shelter  comes  the  bed,  a  point  of 
special  interest  to  most  canoeists,  who  for  fifty  weeks  of  the 
year  sleep  in  a  comfortable  bed  at  home. 

Many  canoes  are  now  furnished  with  a  mattress  of  cork 
shavings,  which  makes  an  excellent  bed,  and  also  answers  as 
a  life  preserver.  This  mattress,  the  invention  of  Mr.  C.  H. 
Faroham,  is  50in.  long,  18in.  wide  and  4in.  thick,  made  of 
some  light  material,  such  as  burlaps  or  Japanese  canvas. 
It  is  divided  by  two  partitions,  each  made  of  muslin  sewn 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  105 

to  top,  bottom  and  ends,  into  tlnee  parts,  each  50x6x4m., 
and  in  each  of  these  about  1^^  pounds  of  cork  shavings  is 
placed.  The  partitions  arc  inteudt'd  to  keep  the  cork  dis- 
tributed even!}'.  Hooks  and  rings  at  the  ends,  with  straps 
for  the  shoulders,  make  it  easily  adjustable  as  a  life  pre 
server,  as  it  is  long  enough  to  encircle  the  body. 

In  connection  with  this  mattress,  Mr.  Famham,  much  of 
whose  canoeing  has  been  done  in  cold  climates,  has  devised 
a  sleeping  bag  or  quilt  and  cover.  The  quilt,  when  extended, 
is  nearly  heart-shaped,  being  7ft.  long  and  7ft.  at  the  widest 
part.  The  small  end  does  not  come  quite  to  a  point,  but  an 
oval  end  piece  is  sewn  in.  The  quilt  is  mi  de  of  silk  or  silesia, 
stuffed  with  2J  pounds  of  down,  evenlj'  quilted  in,  the  edges 
being  strengthened  with  a  binding  of  tape.  Around  the 
edges  are  buttons  and  buttonholes,  by  which  the  quilt  may 
be  converted  into  a  closed  bag,  in  which  a  man  may  sleep 
warmly  in  the  coldest  weather.  A  cover  of  the  same  shipc 
is  made  of  fine  muslin,  coated  with  boiled  oil,  and  being 
provided  with  buttonholes,  may  be  buttoned  closely,  keep- 
ing off  entirely  the  dampness  of  the  gi'ound  or  even  rain. 
The  entire  weight  of  the  quilt  is  A\  pounds,  and  of  oiled 
cover  2  pounds  6  ounces,  and  both  may  be  rolled  into  a  very 
small  bundle  for  stowage.  The  amount  of  covering  may  be 
regulated  to  suit  the  weather,  the  canoeist  sleeping  with 
either  oiled  cover,  quilt,  or  both  over  him,  or  if  very  cold, 
rolhng  up  in  both  and  lying  on  tho  cork  mattress.  The  cork 
mattress  is  used  in  several  ways  as  a  cushion  during  the  day. 
Canoeists  usually  carry  in  summer  a  good  pair  of  blankets, 
and  sometimes  a  sleeping  bag,  made  of  a  quilt  or  blanket 
doubled  and  sewn  together  at  the  edges  and  across  one  end, 
the  other  being  kept  open  for  ingress. 

If  weight  and  space  are  of  importance  on  short  summer 
cruises,  a  single  good  blanket  may  be  taken,  with  a  lining  of 
sheeting  or  drill  sewed  to  one  edge  and  buttoning  along  the 
bottom  and  other  edge.  In  very  warm  weather  the  canoeist 
sleeps  under  the  drilling  only,  or  if  cooler,  under  the  blanket; 
but  in  still  colder  weather  the  lined  blanket  will  be  almost  as 
warm  as  a  double  one,  and  much  lighter.    A  rubber  water- 


106  STOVES  AND  LAMPS. 

bed  is  sometimes  carried  and  is  very  comfortable  to  sleep  on, 
but  they  are  quite  expensive. 

One  or  two  rubber  blankets  are  usually  found  in  a  canoe- 
ist's outfit,  and  are  very  useful,  as  a  tent  may  be  improvised 
from  one ;  it  is  necessary  on  damp  ground  or  in  a  wet  canoe, 
and  during  the  day  the  bedding  may  be  rolled  in  it.  What- 
ever !  jdding  is  carried,  it  is  highly  necessary  that  it  should 
be  kept  dry,  which  is  best  accomplished  by  wrapping  in  a 
waterproof  cover  or  bag,  strapping  it  very  tightly,  and  carry- 
ing it  well  under  the  deck  or  in  a  compartment.  In  many 
localities  a  few  yards  of  mosquito  netting  are  indispensable, 
as  it  may  be  used  in  connection  with  any  of  the  tents  de- 
scribed. Several  varieties  of  camp  cot  are  sold  in  the 
sporting  goods  stores,  but,  though  good  in  a  permanent 
camp,  they  are  too  heavy  and  bulky  for  a  canoe. 


STOVES  AND  LAMPS. 


On  a  canoe  cruise  of  any  length  cooking  apparatus  of 
some  kind  is  of  course  a  necessity,  but  on  short  trips  it  is 
usually  dispensed  with,  a  supply  of  cold  provisions  being 
carried.  Some  means  of  making  tea,  coffee  or  hot  soup  is 
always  necessary,  however,  and  should  be  at  hand  even  if 
the  trip  in  prospect  is  to  last  but  a  few  hours.  Delays  are 
always  possible  on  the  water,  and  the  prudent  canoeist  will 
prepare  for  them.  For  light  cooking  an  alcohol  stove  is  the 
cleanest  and  most  compact,  the  best  being  that  known  as  the 
"flamme  force,"  which  gives  a  hot  flame  in  a  little  while, 
and  may  be  used  afloat.  With  this  stove,  a  little  coffee  or 
tea,  some  pilot  bread  and  a  can  of  prepared  soup,  a  good  meal 
may  be  quickly  prepared.  The  only  objection  is  the  cost  of 
the  fuel.  Wood  spirits  may  be  used  instead  of  alcohol,  and 
is  much  cheaper;  but  the  odor  is  very  disagreeable.  Kero- 
sene stoves  have  no  place  on  a  canoe,  as  they  are  so  dirty, 
besides  being  quite  heavy,  and  the  oil  is  difiicult  to  carry 
without  fcpilling  over  the  boat.    Alcohol  for  the  spirit  store 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING. 


107 


may  be  carried  in  a  quart  can,  with  a  screw  top,  and  even  it 
a  little  is  spilled  it  will  do  no  injurj',  as  kerosene  will. 

Most  of.  the  cooking  will  be  done  on  shore  over  a  wood 
fire,  either  on  the  ground  or  in  a  camp  stove  of  some  kind. 
Several  very  compact  stoves  are  made  by  the  dealers  in 


C^ 


C^j^/wy/h  %}C^/VjC- 


camp  goods,  but  they  are  too  large  for  a  canoe,  unlesp  in  a 
large  party,  where  the  load  can  be  divided  among  several 
boats.  For  cooking  without  a  stove  a  very  useful  contriv- 
ance is  the  camp  gridiron,  shown  in  the  cut.  The  ends  are 
of  half  round  or  flat  iron  Sin.  long.  Each  has  four  holes 
drilled  in  it  for  the  cross  biirs  of  -i^riin-  "wire,  wh-ich  aro 


108  STOVES  AND  LAMPS. 

riveted  in.  Tlie  legs  are  of  ^in.  round  iron,  6in.  long,  the 
upper  ends  being  flattened  down  and  turned  over  to  fit  on 
"wire  staples.  Tliese  staples  pass  through  holes  in  the  end 
pieces  of  the  gridiron,  and  are  riveted  fast.  When  in  use 
the  fire  is  made  and  allowed  to  burn  down  to  a  mass  of  hot 
ashes,  then  the  legs  of  the  gridiron  are  opened  and  stuck  in 
the  ground  over  it,  making  a  level  framework,  on  which 
coffee  pot,  pails  and  pans  wiU  rest  without  danger  of  upset- 
ting. When  not  in  use,  the  legs  are  folded  down  and  the 
gridiron  stowed  in  a  canvas  bag. 

A  very  compact  and  convenient  camp  stove  was  used  by 
Mr.  Smith,  of  Newburg,  at  the  camp  last  spring.  It  was 
made  of  sheet  iron,  the  top  being  about  lOxlSin.,  or  larger  if 
desired,  in  the  shape  of  a  flat  pan,  the  edges  turning  up  lin 
all  around.  The  two  sides  were  pieces  of  sheet  iron  6in. 
wide  and  I7in.  long,  lin.  at  each  end  being  turned  at  a  right 
angle,  as  shown,  making  the  sides  each  15in.  long.  The 
ends  were  each  6in.  wide  and  lOin.  long,  a  strip  6in.  long 
and  2in.  wide  being  riveted  across  each  end  as  shown,  on 
the  inside.  To  put  the  stove  together,  the  projecting  pieces 
on  the  sides  were  pushed  in  between  the  strips  on  the  ends, 
making  a  square  box,  and  the  hd  was  laid  on  top,  holding  all 
together.  In  the  front  end,  a  circular  hole,  covered  by  a 
door,  was  made  to  put  in  the  wood  through,  and  in  the  other 
end  a  hole  was  cut  to  communicate  with  the  pipe.  This 
latter  is  of  round  or  oval  section,  about  ^in.  across,  and 
18in.  long.  At  the  bottom  it  is  riveted  to  a  flat  piece  5in. 
square,  which  slides  in  the  two  extra  strips  riveted  on  the 
after  end,  as  shown  in  the  drawing. 

This  stove  may  be  easily  and  cheaply  made;  it  is  light  and 
compact  for  stowage,  all  folding  into  a  flat  package  lOxlSx- 
l|in.,  except  the  pipe,  and  it  is  quickly  set  up  and  taken 
apart.  No  bottom  is  needed,  the  stove  being  set  on  the 
ground. 

In  another  form  the  body  of  stove  is  hinged  together,  so 
that  when  not  in  use  the  stove,  covers  and  funnel  all  go  into 
a  canvas  bag,  two  feet  long,  one  foot  wide  and  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  which  can  be  stowed  under  floor 


AMATEUB  CANOE  BUILDING.  109 

of  canoe,  and  is  entirely  out  of  the  way.  It  is  made  of  sheet 
iron;  the  top  is  24x12,  with  two  holes  Sin.  diameter,  with 
sheet  iron  covers,  and  a  small  2x3in.  hole  at  one  end  to  hold 
chimney  or  funnel.  The  sides  are  24x10,  hinged  to  top,  and 
ends  12x10,  hinged  to  top  in  same  manner;  small  strips  of 
heavier  iron,  \m.  thick,  are  riveted  on  sides  and  one  end  in 
such  manner  as  to  project  below  bottom  of  stove,  and  being 
pointed,  can  be  pushed  into  the  ground  in  sotting  up  stove 
so  as  to  hold  all  firm.  The  front  end  does  not  have  these 
projections,  so  it  can  be  propped  out  from  stove,  thereby 
acting  both  as  a  door  for  fuel  and  to  create  a  draft. 

Tho  funnel  is  made  of  four  pieces  hinged  together,  two 
23x3  and  two  23^x24,  the  additional  half  inch  projecting 
below  and  fitting  into  the  hole  cut  on  top  of  stove. 

The  top  is  better  in  some  respects  without  holes,  ys  the 
cooking  utensils  are  then  kept  clean,  and  free  from  sjaoke. 

Still  another  stove  is  sometimes  used,  consisting  of  a 
cylinder  of  sheet  iron,  10  to  12in.  in  diameter  and  the  same 
in  length,  open  at  both  ends.  Across  one  end  are  stretched 
several  stiff  wires,  upon  which  rest  the  cooking  utensils 
At  the  other  end,  which  is  the  bottom  when  used  as  a 
stove,  an  opening  about  0x7  from  the  bottom  edge  is 
cut  to  serve  as  a  door  and  draft.  At  the  same  end,  opposite 
the  door,  another  small  opening  is  cut  to  give  a  draft  to  the 
other  side. 

When  not  used  as  a  stove  it  is  reversed,  the  wires  serving 
as  a  bottom  enables  it  to  hold  all  the  utensils,  plates,  etc.,  as 
a  bucket,  and  a  wire  handle  being  fitted  to  the  bottom  for 
that  purpose. 

Its  advantages  are  that  a  fire  can  be  made  very  quickly, 
even  with  poor  wood,  as  the  draft  is  tremendous;  it  confines 
the  heat  and  saves  fuel,  enables  one  to  have  a  good  fire  of 
wood  too  small  to  use  in  an  open  fire,  and  renders  the  hunt- 
ing and  cutting  of  the  usual  cross  piece  for  hanging  the  pots 
by  unnecessary,  and  it  is  also  very  cheap. 

To  eaiTy  the  proA'isions  in  and  keep  them  dry,  a  chest 
of  wood  or  tin  is  used,  generally  about  lOxlSxOin.,  in 
which  arc  packed  tin  cans  with  large  screw  covers,  such  as 


110  STOVES  AND  LAMPS 

are  used  on  vaseline  cans,  for  coffee,  tea,  sugar,  flour,  oat- 
meal, baking  powder,  rice,  and  any  other  articles  itLs  desired 
to  keep  dry.  If  the  large  box  be  waterproof,  as  it  should 
be,  such  articles  are  sometimes  carried  in  bags  of  light 
drilling,  but  the  cans  are  usually  the  best.  This  box  is  usu- 
ally stowed  just  forward  of  the  feet,  under  the  deck,  but 
where  it  can  be  easily  reached,  the  spirit  lamp  being  also 
near  by.  In  cooking  on  board,  the  box  is  drawn  out,  the 
lid,  or  sometimes  a  hatch,  is  laid  across  the  coaming  for  a 
table,  and  the  spirit  stove  set  up.  For  cooking  on  shore,  a 
kettle  for  boiling  water,  say  two  quarts,  a  smaller  one  for 
oatmeal,  etc.,  to  pack  inside  the  large  one,  a  coffee  pot,  and 
a  frying  pan  are  indispensable,  other  articles  being  added  if 
there  is  room.  A  very  handy  implement  in  a  camp  kitchen 
is  a  pair  of  light  blacksmith's  tongs,  with  which  plates  and 
pans  may  be  lifted  when  hot. 

A  light  of  some  kind  is  a  most  important  part  of  a  canoe's 
equipment,  as  the  canoeist  may  on  any  trip  he  overtaken  by 
darkness,  in  which  case  bis  safety  may  depend  largely  on 
his  showing  a  Ught.  A  square  box  lantern  of  brass  is  used 
by  many  canoeists,  one  side  having  a  green  glass  and  one  a 
red,  the  front  having  a  round  white  lens.  The  oil  used  is 
lard  or  kerosene.  This  lamp,  which  is  fitted  to  slides  on  the 
forward  deck,  makes  an  excellent  signal  light,  but  is  not 
visible  from  astern.  In  camp,  white  slides  may  be  substi- 
tuted for  the  colored  ones.  The  use  of  kerosene  is  a  disad- 
vantage, as  it  is  difficult  to  carry.  The  Mohican  C.  C.  carry 
a  small  brass  lantern  in  which  a  candle  is  used,  giving  a 
white  light  only,  and  serving  for  use  in  the  tent  or  in  camp. 
When  under  way  at  night  it  is  hung  from  the  mizzenmast. 


CANVAS    CANOES. 


T  ONG  before  the  era  of  boats  constrticted  of  boards,  and 
-*-^  following  closely  after  the  primitive  attempt  at  naviga 
tion  astride  a  log,  and  the  second  step  in  the  form  of  several 
logs  lashed  together,  came  the  intermediate  step,  by  which 
the  form  and  proportion  of  a  boat  was  obtained  out  of  com- 
paratively raw  material,  and  without  tools.  The  coracle, 
as  this  craft  was  called,  was  simply  an  open  frame  of  basket 
work,  woven  from  branches  and  saplings  gathered  by  the 
riverside,  over  which  the  hide  of  a  bullock,  or  some  similar 
covering,  was  stretched  and  sewn ;  the  implements  required 
in  constructing  such  a  craft  being  few  and  of  the  simplest 
form,  so  that  it,  in  all  probability,  antedates  considerably  the 
canoe  fashioned  from  a  hollow  log. 

This  style  of  boat  is  still  in  use,  though  of  course  in  a 
greatly  improved  form,  and  it  still  possesses  three  great 
advantages,  it  requires  less  skill,  fewer  tools,  and  less  expense 
of  labor  and  material  Ihan  any  boat  of  similar  excellence. 
The  canvas  canoe  is  usually  inferior  both  in  weight,  strength 
and  appearance  to  its  wooden  rival,  but  is  still  a  very  good 
boat  for  all  the  purposes  of  the  canoeist.  The  canvas  skin  is 
quite  heavy  when  so  prepared  as  to  be  watertight,  and  adds 
nothing  to  the  strength  of  the  boat,  which  requires,  con- 
sequently, a  stronger  frame  than  a  cedar  canoe,  in  which 
decks  and  planking  add  greatly  to  the  strength.  If  the 
canoe  is  of  the  smaller  variety,  for  paddhng  only,  or  carrying 
but  a  small  sail,  it  may  be  built  as  light  or  even  lighter  than 
a  cedar  boat  of  equal  stiffness,  but  if  of  such  a  size  as  14x30, 
with  50  lo  90ft.  of  sail,  the  entire  frame  must  be  very 
strongly  braced,  and  the  boat  will  weigh  more  than  one  of 
cedar. 


113  CANVAS  CANOES. 

The  first  steps  of  the  building  are  similar  to  those  previous- 
ly described  for  a  lapstreak  canoe.  The  moulds  are  cut  out  in 
the  same  manner,  the  stem  and  stern  are  prepared,  a  rabbet 
^in.  deep  being  cut  to  take  the  edge  of  the  canvas.  The 
inner  keel,  /,  is  fin.  thick,  2^^  to  Sin.  wide  at  middle,  and 
tapers  to  ^  at  the  ends.  It  is  planed  up,  without  a  rabbet, 
and  to  it  the  stem  a  and  stern  b  are  screwed.  The  outer  keel 
is  ^in.  wide,  and  as  deep  as  may  be  desired,  not  less  than 
fin.  It  is  plane  d  up,  the  grain  pointing  aft,  as  described  for 
a  cedar  canoe,  and  is  fitted  to  the  scarf  of  stem,  and  screwed 
temporarily  to  stem,  keel  and  stern,  as  it  must  be  removed 
when  the  canvas  is  put  on. 

The  frame  is  now  set  up  on  the  stocks,  the  moulds  shored 
in  place  and  all  adjusted,  then  the  gunwales  h,  of  oak  or  ash, 
Jxf ,  are  tacked  on  and  jogs  or  notches  are  cut  in  the  stem 
and  stern  to  receive  them,  leaving  their  outer  surface  flush 
with  the  surface  of  the  stem  and  stern.  These  notches  should 
not  be  cut  across  the  rabbets.  Strips  of  oak  or  ash  II, 
IJxJin.,  are  now  nailed  lightly  to  the  moulds,  five  or  six  be- 
ing used  on  each  side,  and  the  jogs  d  d  marked  and  cut  in 
stem  and  stern  to  receive  their  ends,  which,  like  the  gun- 
wales, are  secured  with  screws  or  rivets  to  the  deadwoods. 

The  ribs  k  will  be  of  oak  or  elm,  f  xjin.  They  are  planed 
up,  steamed  or  soaked  in  boiling  water  until  quite  pliable, 
and  then  are  taken  one  by  one,  bent  over  the  knee,  and  while 
still  hot  the  middle  nailed  down  to  the  keel,  and  then  each 
ribband  in  turn,  from  keel  to  gunwale,  is  nailed  temporarily 
to  the  rib  with  one  nail  only.  Care  is  necessary  to  keep  the 
ribbands  fair,  without  hollows  or  lumps.  After  all  the  ribs 
are  in  they  must  be  looked  over  and  faired  up,  the  nails  being 
drawn  out,  if  necessary,  after  which  a  copper  nail  is  driven 
through  each  rib  and  ribband  where  they  cross,  and  riveted, 
making  a  very  strong  and  elastic  frame. 

An  inwale,  n,  Ixfin  ,  is  now  put  inside  of  each  gunwale, 
h,  being  jogged  to  fit  over  the  heads  of  the  ribs,  all  three 
being  well  riveted  together.  When  this  is  in,  the  deck  beams 
o  may  be  fitted.  They  are  cut  out  of  oak  or  hackmatack, 
lx|in.,  and  are  placed  as  directed  for  a  wooden  canoe,  the 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  113 

deck  frame  and  coamings  being  put  in  in  the  same  manner. 
The  frame  is  now  taken  from  the  stocks,  and  all  corners  that 
might  cut  the  canvas  arc  smoothed  and  rounded  off,  then  it 
is  painted  all  over. 

The  canvas  should  be  hard  and  closely  woven,  wide 
enough  to  reach  from  gunwale  to  gunwale.  The  frame  is 
first  turned  upside  down,  the  outer  keel  removed,  and  the 
middle  of  the  canvas  fastened  along  the  keel,  with  a  few  tacks, 
then  it  is  turned  over,  and  the  canvas  drawn  tightly  over 
the  gunwales.  To  do  this  effectively,  the  two  edges  of  the 
canvas  are  laced  together,  using  a  sail  needle  and  stronpc 
twine,  with  stitches  about  6in.  apart  along  each  edge.  Tliis 
lacing  is  now  tightened  until  th(!  canvas  lies  flat  over  the 
entire  frame.  At  the  ends  it  must  be  cut  neatly,  the  edge 
turned  in,  and  tacked  tightly  in  the  rabbet,  which  is  first 
well  painted  with  thick  paint.  When  the  ends  are  finished 
the  lacing  is  agt  in  tightened  up,  and  a  row  of  tacks  driven 
along  the  gunwale,  after  which  the  lacing  is  removed  and 
the  canvas  trimmed  down,  leaving  enough  to  turn  in  and 
tack  to  the  inside  of  the  inwale. 

The  moulds  are  now  removed,  and  a  keelson,  e,  is  put  in 
to  stiengthen  the  bottom,  being  of  oak,  fin.  deep  and  lin. 
wide.  It  is  slipped  in,  one  or  two  of  the  deck  beams  being 
removed,  if  necessary,  and  the  position  of  each  lib  marked, 
then  it  is  removed,  and  jogs  cut  to  fit  down  over  the  ribs, 
after  which  it  is  replaced  and  screwed  down,  running  far 
enough  foiward  on  the  stem  to  lap  well  over  the  scarfs  and 
strengthen  it.  The  deck  frame  and  coaming  is  next  finished, 
the  mast  tubes  set,  and  all  preparations  for  decking  made  as 
for  a  wooden  canoe.  A  deck  is  sometimes  laid  of  ^in.  pine 
or  cedar,  over  which  the  canvas  is  stretched,  or  the  canvas 
may  be  laid  directly  on  the  beams.  The  canvas  for  the  deck 
may  bo  about  6oz.  weight,  and  is  stretched  tightly  down 
and  tacked  along  the  gunwales  and  around  the  well.  After 
it  is  on,  half  round  strips  m  in,  are  screwed  around  the  edge 
of  the  deck,  and  an  outside  keel  piece  of  oak  ^in.  thick,  is 
fitted  to  the  bottom,  the  screws  passing  through  into  keelson 
e,  making  all  very  stiff. 


114  CANVAS  CANOES. 

The  canvas  should  now  be  wetted,  and  painted  with  two 
coats  of  boiled  oil,  with  a  little  turpentine  and  iapan  dryer 
mixed  in,  after  which  a  coat  or  two  of  paint  of  any  desired 
color  will  finish  it  off.  The  paint  must  be  renewed  on  any 
spots  where  it  may  rub  off  in  use,  but  the  canoe  should  not 
be  painted  oftener  than  necessary,  as  its  weight  is  much  in- 
creased thereby. 

Another  method  of  building  a  canvas  boat,  as  described 
by  a  writer  in  Forest  and  Stream,  was  to  build  the  boat,  of 
whatever  model  desired,  in  the  same  manner  as  an  ordinary 
carvel  built  wooden  boat,  but  using  very  thin  planking,  no 
attempt  being  made  to  have  the  seams  in  the  latter  water- 
tight. This  frame  is  then  covered  with  canvas  laid  in  thick 
paint,  causing  it  to  adhere  to  the  wood,  and  making  a  smooth, 
watertight  surface.  Such  a  boat  can  be  easily  built  by  those 
who  have  not  the  skill  and  training  necessary  to  build  a 
wooden  boat,  and  it  would  be  strong  and  durable,  as  well  as 
cheap. 


BOAT    BUILDING. 


T^HI'j  first  steps  of  boat  building  are  the  same  as  those 
-■-  already  described  under  canoe  building.  The  main  fea- 
tures of  the  design  are  decided  on ,  the  d  ra  wings  or  model  made, 
and  from  them  the  lines  are  laid  down  and  the  moulds  made. 
The  latter,  being  larger  than  for  a  canoe,  arc  usually  made 
of  several  pieces  braced  together,  as  shown  in  Plate  15,  instead 
of  being  cut  from  a  solid  board.  Rabbet  and  stem  moulds 
will  be  required,  as  in  a  canoe,  and  also  one  for  the  stern  or 
transom,  the  usual  shape  of  which  is  also  shown,  as  well  as 
the  shax^e  of  the  mould,  which  is  made  of  one  piece  of  board, 
to  correspond  only  to  one  side  of  the  stern. 

One  of  two  methods  is  usually  followed  in  boat  building, 
either  the  lapstreak  or  clincher,  as  described  for  canoes,  or 
the  carvel  or  smooth  build ;  the  latter  being  used  only  where 
planking  is  thick  enough  to  caulk,  and  making  a  heavier 
boat  than  the  former.  Whichever  way  is  adopted,  the  boat 
is  usually  built  on  stocks,  keel  downward;  but  unless  of 
large  size,  it  will  be  easier  to  huild  it  on  a  table,  as  described 
for  a  canoe. 

For  a  lapstreak  boat,  a  keel  or  keelson  (or  if  for  a  center- 
board,  a  flat  keel),  will  be  used,  as  on  pages  40  and  42.  If 
the  stem  is  nearly  straight,  a  knee  will  not  be  necessary,  but 
the  stem  may  be  cut  out  of  oak  plank,  as  at  a.  The  keel  c 
is  nailed  to  it,  and  the  joint  is  strengthened  by  a  chock  e 
bolted  to  both.  As  a  boat  h  usually  fuller  at  the  bows  than 
a  canoe,  the  thickness  of  the  stem  alone  will  not  give  suffi- 
cient fastening  for  the  upper  planks,  so  a  piece  b,  called  an 
apron,  is  added  inside  the  stem,  wide  enough  to  fill  the  space, 
which  the  stem  alone  would  not  do.  This  apron  is  fitted 
just  within  the  inner  rabbet  line,  and  extends  from  tl:c  top 


116  BOAT  BUILDING. 

of  stem  down  about  to  the  waterline,  near  which,  as  the 
Jines  become  finer,  the  stem  itself  will  be  thick  enough  for 
deadwoods.  The  apron  may  be  from  1|  to  2iD.  in  a  fore 
and  aft  direction,  its  width  depending  on  the  fullness  ot  the 
bows. 

The  sternpost  in  a  boat  is  of  the  shape  shown  at  /,  the 
after  side  being  cut  away  to  receive  the  stern  or  transom  h. 
The  sternpost  is  nailed  or  screwed  to  the  keel,  and  in  the 
angle  betwern  the  two  is  fitted  the  after  deadwood  (/,  in 
which  the  rabbet  is  cut.  In  a  lapstreak  boat,  the  keel  batten 
d  will  run  from  the  chock  e,  or  from  the  stem,  on  top  of  keel 
and  after  deadwood  to  the  stern. 

The  frame  being  fastened  together  and  the  rabbets  cut,  it 
is  set  upon  the  stocks,  the  keel  is  held  in  place  by  a  few  iron 
nails  driven  through  into  the  stocks  (to  be  cut  off  when  the 
boat  is  removed)  and  the  stem  and  sternpost  are  lined  up 
plumb,  and  with  the'proper  fore  and  aft  rake,  and  secured  by 
shores  from  above  and  below;  see  page  38,  Fig.  9.  The 
transom  is  next  cut  out  from  some  hard  wood,  using  the 
mould  b.  A  vertical  line  is  first  drawn  down  the  center  of  a 
board  of  sufficient  size,  and  at  its  lower  end,  at  2,  the  half 
breadth  of  the  sternposl  is  set  off  on  each  side.  A  line  is 
drawn  at  right  angles  to  this  center  line  at  the  height  of  the 
upper  side  of  the  gunwales,  allowing  enough  above  for  the 
round  of  the  top  of  the  stern,  and  on  tliis  line  is  laid  off  the 
breadth  of  the  stern,  giving  the  points  1,  1.  The  mould 
in  now  applied  to  one  side  and  then  the  other,  and  when 
both  are  marked  the  stern  is  cut  out,  allowing  enough  bevel, 
as  the  fore  side  will,  of  course,  be  larger  than  the  after  side. 
The  stern  is  now  nailed  or  screwed  to  the  sternpost,  com- 
pleting the  frame. 

The  moulds  are  next  put  in  place,  and  shored  from  the 
ceiling  or  from  the  floor,  and  a  ridge  piece  is  stretched  from 
stem  to  stern  and  nailed  to  each  as  well  as  to  the  moulds, 
keeping  all  in  position. 

The  operation  of  planking  is  now  proceeded  with  precisely 
as  in  a  canoe  (see  page  4b),  the  stop  waters  being  first  put  in. 
The  planking  should  be  of  cedar,  in  single  length*  'f  Dossi 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  117 

ble,  but  whero  cedar  cannot,  be  obtained,  ■white  pine  or 
even  spruce  may  be  used.  The  upper  streak  is  usually  of 
hard  wood,  oak,  walnut  or  mahogany,  and  is  a  little  tliicker 
than  the  lower  plankin^,  and  is  sooaetimes  rabbeted  over  it, 
as  shown  in  the  sectional  view.  A  bead  is  sometimes  worked 
near  the  lower  edge,  and  just  above  the  bead,  if  a  gold  stripe 
is  desired,  a  shallow  depression  x,  called  a  "cove,  "is  plowed, 
in  which  the  gold  is  laid  to  protect  it  from  injury. 

After  the  planking  is  completed,  the  timbers  are  planed  up 
and  put  in  as  in  a  canoe,  or  if  a  neater  job  is  desired,  they 
are  made  a  little  iieavier  at  the  heels,  each  one  extending 
only  from  the  kcd  to  gunwale,  and  are  steamed  and  bent 
first,  then  each  is  fitted  to  its  place,  marked  and  cut  to  fit 
down  closely  to  the  planks,  as  shown  in  the  section,  after 
which  it  is  riveted  in.  Between  each  pair  of  timbers  a 
'•floor"  is  fitted,  similar  to  the  timber,  but  extending  across 
the  keel  as  high  as  the  turn  of  the  bilge  on  either  side. 

After  the  timbers  are  in  and  nails  riveted  the  next  operation 
is  to  set  the  gunwales.  These  are  pieces  of  ash  or  oak,  ii,  run- 
ning inside  of  the  upper  streak,  and  covering  the  heads  of  the 
timbers,  which,  are  jogged  into  them  as  shown  in  the  sec- 
tion of  upper  streak,  gunwale  and  timbers.  The  gunwales, 
sometimes  called  inwales,  may  be  |in.  deep,  1^  wide  at 
center  and  taper  to  fin.  at  each  end.  They  are  planed  up, 
and  if  necessary  steamed  until  they  will  bend  easily;  then 
they  are  put  in  place  resting  on  the  heads  of  the  timbers, 
which  latter  have  been  cut  off  ^in.  below  top  of  upper  streak, 
and  the  position  of  each  timber  is  marked.  The  gunwales 
are  then  removed  and  the  jogs  cut,  after  which  they  are  re- 
placed and  fastened  by  a  nail  through  the  upper  streak  at 
each  timber  and  one  or  more  between  the  timbers. 

After  the  gunwales  are  in,  a  breasthook  I,  worked  from 
a  knee,  is  put  in  the  bow,  fitting  the  inner  sides  of  the  gun- 
wales and  the  after  side  of  the  apron.  A  rivet  of  iin. 
iron  is  put  through  stem,  apron  and  throat  of  breasthook. 
At  the  after  corners,  transom  knees  k  k,  are  put  in,  being 
riveted  to  the  transom  and  also  to  the  gunwale  and  upper 
streak.     An  oak  bead,  half  round  in  section,  is  usually  run 


118  BOATBUILDING. 

round  the  upper  ed2:e  of  the  upper  streak  to  complete  iti 
being  nailed  through  into  the  gnnwale. 

The  interior  arrangements  of  the  boat  depend  on  the  taste 
of  the  builder,  but  that  shown  is  the  usual  one  in  rowboats. 
In  the  bows  is  a  small,  triangular  seat  n,  amidships  are  one 
or  more  thwarts  o  o,  according  to  the  size  of  the  boat,  and 
aft  are  the  sternsheets  or  benches  p. 

All  of  these  rest  on  two  strips  m,  about  2xiin  ,  which  are 
called  the  risings,  and  arc  fastened  to  the  timbers  at  a  proper 
height  to  support  the  seats,  which  should  bo  about  7iu.  below 
the  top  of  gunwale.  The  seats  in  bow  and  stern  are  also 
supported  by  ledges,  and  the  forward  ends  of  the  latter  are 
either  long  enough  to  rest  on  the  after  thwart  as  shown,  or 
are  supported  by  brackttG.  The  thwarts  should  be  strength- 
ened by  knees  of  wood  j,  well  riveted.  Sometimes  a  single 
knee  is  used  in  the  center  of  a  thwart,  fitted  on  it  and  riveted 
down;  and  sometimes  two  are  used,  one  near  each  edge.  The 
thwart  in  which  the  mast  is  stepped  should  be  very  strongly 
fastened.  Lockers  are  sometimes  built  under  the  seats,  but 
their  construction  is  simple,  and  requires  no  special  direction. 

The  floor  is  usually  composed  of  several  pieces,  in  the 
center  the  "bottom board,"  q,  of  about  12in.  wide,  resting  on 
the  ribs  and  held  down  by  buttons  or  staples  in  the  keelson; 
outside  of  this  the  button  boards  r  r,  -i  to  Sin.  wide  at  center 
and  narrower  at  the  ends.  Several  small  strips  are  nailed 
across  the  under  side  ot  these  to  keep  them  from  splitting, 
which  strips  project  ^in.  from  the  inner  edge,  so  as  to  enter 
below  the  bottom  board  and  hold  down  r  r.  Outside  of  these 
pieces  are  two  strips  s  s,  about  Sin.  wide,  and  screwed  to 
the  timbers.  They  are  called  the  footlines,  and  on  each  are 
two  buttons,  which  turn  over  the  outer  edges  of  the  button 
boards,  holding  them  down.  Outside  of  each  footline,  and 
also  screwed  to  the  limbers,  are  the  racks  t  t,  to  hold  the 
stretchers  for  the  feet  when  rowing.  Where  the  floor  nar- 
rows up  in  the  stern  it  is  raised  a  little,  one  wide  piece,  u, 
being  fitted,  resting  on  two  ledges  screwed  to  the  bottom. 

There  are  many  patterns  of  rowlock  in  use,  of  brass  or  gal- 
vanized iron,  and  the  old  wooden  thole  pins  are  little  used 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  119 

for  pleasure  boats.  The  center  of  the  rowlocks  should  be 
from  9  to  lOin.  aft  of  the  ed2;e  of  the  thwart.  The  rudder 
will  be  hung  as  iu  a  canoe,  and  fitted  with  a  yoke  and  lines 
for  rowing  and  a  tiller  for  sailing.  A  backboard,  v,  is  usu- 
ally fitted  across  the  stern,  making  a  back  to  the  seat.  The 
name  of  the  boat  may  be  painted  or  carved  on  it.  The  stem 
is  protected  by  a  stemband  of  half-round  iron  or  copper, 
ronning  well  down  on  to  the  keel,  and  the  angle  at  the  heel 
of  the  sternpost  is  usually  protected  by  a  similar  piece, 
called  a  scagband.  The  final  processes  of  finishing  and 
painting  have  all  been  described  in  cauoe  building. 

The  construction  of  a  carvel  built  boat  varies  somewhat 
from  a  lapstreak,  the  operations  resembling  more  tliosc  em- 
ployed u  shipbuilding.  The  frame  is  prepared  as  for  a 
lapstreak  boat,  except  that  no  keel  batten  is  needed.  The 
rabbets  being  cut  and  the  frame  set  up.  the  moulds  are  put 
in  phicc  and  a  number  of  thin  ribbands  tacked  over  them. 
Now,  instead  of  the  planking  being  laid  the  frame  is  first  set 
up  complete.  If  the  timbers  are  to  be  bent,  as  is  usual  for 
small  boats  up  to  sailboats  of  25ft.  or  over,  a  timber  block  is 
made  of  a  litlle  greater  curvature  than  the  midship  mould. 
The  ends  are  cut  from  a  10-inch  board  and  cross  pieces  are 
nailed  to  them,  making  a  width  of  2  to  3ft.  A  strip  is  naUed 
across  each  end,  projecting  a  few  inches,  and  to  these  two 
ends  another  piece  bs  nailed,  leaving  room  to  insert  the  heels 
of  the  timbers  to  be  bent.  The  timbers  are  sawed  out  and 
planed  up.  each  being  long  enough  to  roach  from  the  keel  to 
the  gunwale.  They  aie  about  one-third  deeper  at  the  heel  or 
lower  end  than  at  the  head;  for  instance,  |in.  deep  at  heel, 
and  |in.  at  head.  It  is  well  to  get  them  out  and  bend  them 
in  pairs,  that  is,  if  the  timber  is  to  be  Jin.  thick.  |in.  deep  at 
heel,  and  |in.  at  head,  the  piece  will  be  l|in.  wide  by  |in.  at 
one  end,  and  Un.  at  the  other.  This  piece  is  steamed  and 
bent  on  the  trap,  then  sawed  in  half  and  the  edges  planed, 
making  two  pieces  each  fin.  thick. 

A  steam-box  of  some  kind  is  necessary  for  this  work,  the 
size  depending  on  the  dimensions  of  the  boat.  Steam  may 
be  made  in  an  iron  kettle  supported  over  a  wood  fire  ia  any 


120  BOA  T  B  UILDING. 

convenient  manner.  A  wooden  lid  is  fitted,  with  a  pipe  also 
of  wood,  leading  to  the  steam  chest.  This  may  be  made  of 
four  pine  boards,  being  8ft.  long  and  8xl0in.  square  inside. 
A  light  rack  of  lath  is  made  to  slide  inside,  on  which  to  lay 
the  pieces  to  be  steamed.  One  end  is  closed  permanently, 
and  the  other  is  fitted  with  a  door,  or  a  bundle  of  rags  is 
stuffed  in,  to  confine  the  steam.  The  timbers  being  ready, 
they  are  laid  on  the  rack  and  slid  into  the  box,  which  must 
be  full  of  hot  steam,  and  left  there  until  they  will  bend  easily. 
They  are  then  removed  one  by  one  and  bent  over  the  timber 
block,  the  heels  first  being  inserted  under  the  cross-piece, 
then  the  heads  slowly  and  carefully  bent  down,  and  fastened 
with  a  cord,  a  screw-clamp  or  a  nail.  Of  course  the  timbers 
in  various  parts  of  the  boat  will  vary  in  curvature,  but  all 
may  be  bent  on  the  one  block,  some  being  pressed  down 
closer  than  others.  When  Ihoy  are  cold  they  are  removed 
from  the  block,  and  before  recovering  their  shape  are  stay- 
lathed,  a  strip  called  a  stay-lath  being  nailed  across  to  pre- 
vent the  piece  straightening  out. 

All  the  timbers  are  treated  thus,  and  left  to  cool.  Each 
pair  must  be  marked  in  some  w;iy  to  prevent  confusion. 
The  timbers  do  not  cross  the  keel,  but  meet  on  it,  and  to 
join  them  a  floor  timber  is  placed  next  to  each  pair.  The 
floors  may  be  sawed  from  straight  stuff  in  some  cases,  but 
toward  the  ends,  and  at  the  middle  also  if  the  boat  is  sharp, 
they  mu'st  be  cut  from  grown  knees.  If  the  boat  has  been 
properly  laid  down  on  the  mould  floor,  the  floor  timbers  are 
taken  from  the  lines  on  the  floor,  each  being  sawed  to  the 
proper  shape  and  fastened  to  the  keel  by  a  naii  or  bolt  of 
round  iron  (not  a  screw  bolt  with  nut).  After  the  floors 
are  in  place,  the  timbers  are  taken,  one  pair  at  a  time, 
and  fitted  in  their  respective  positions.  Some  will  not  coin- 
cide exactly  with  the  lines  of  the  ribbons,  but  they  may  be 
made  to  do  so  by  straightening  them  out  a  little. 

The  tendency  of  bent  timbers  is  to  straighten  out,  so  all 
are  bent  to  a  little  greater  curvature  than  the  ribbands  re- 
quire, and  in  fitting  are  allowed  to  straighten  a  little.  Every 
timber  must  touch  all  the  ribbands,  or  there  will  be  an  un- 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  121 

fair  spot  tliat  cannot  be  remedied,  as  the  timbers  are  too 
light  to  allow  any  cutting  away.  The  timbers  are  nailed  to 
the  keel  f  nd  the  floor  timbers,  and  also  to  a  few  of  the  rib- 
bands to  hold  them  in  place,  all  being  carefully  set  plumb, 
and  square  to  the  keel. 

The  widths  of  the  planks  are  next  laid  off  on  the  timbers, 
and  stem  and  stern,  no  allowance  for  lap  being  necessary,  of 
course;  and  a  spiling  is  taken,  not  for  the  garboard,  but  for 
the  wale  or  upper  streak.  This  is  got  out  and  nailed  to  the 
timbers,  and  the  streak  below  it  is  also  put  on;  then  the  boat 
is  taken  from  the  stocks,  turned  over,  and  the  garboardsput 
on.  The  planking  will  be  thicker  than  for  lapstreak,  not 
less  than  fin.,  which  is  as  thin  as  will  stand  caulking.  After 
the  garboards  are  laid,  the  broadstreaks  follow,  then  the 
planking  is  continued  from  top  and  bottom  alternately,  until 
an  opening  is  left  on  the  bilge  for  the  last  plank,  which  is 
called  the  shutter. 

"When  this  is  in  and  fastened,  the  nails  are  driven 
home  and  riveted,  the  inside  work  completed,  the  bottom 
roughly  planed  off,  when  the  seams  are  ready  for  caulking. 

This  operation  is  performed  with  a  wide,  blunt  chisel 
called  a  caulking  iron,  and  a  wooden  mallet.  The  iron  is 
driven  into  the  scam,  opening  it  slightly,  then  a  thread  of 
raw  cotton  is  driven  in,  using  the  iron  and  mallet.  On  small 
work,  cotton  lampwick  is  used  instead  of  raw  cotton.  To 
caulk  a  boat  properly  requires  care  and  practice,  and  the 
amateur,  in  default  of  practical  instructions,  will  do  well 
to  employ  a  caulker.  After  the  seams  are  caulked  they 
should  be  well  painted  over  the  cotton,  using  a  very  narrow 
brush,  as  the  paint  will  help  to  keep  in  the  cotton. 

The  hull  is  next  planed  smooth,  sandpapered  and  painted, 
after  which  all  seams  and  nail  holes  are  puttied,  all  is  well 
sandpapered  again,  and  painted  with  two  coats. 

If  the  boat  is  to  have  a  deck  and  waterways,  as  shown  in 
some  of  the  designs,  no  guawale  will  be  necessary;  but  the 
upper  streak  will  be  heavy  enough  to  take  the  fastenings  at 
the  edge  of  the  deck.  A  clamp  or  shelf  will  be  worked  in 
place  of  a  gunwale  along  the  timbers  inside,  and  low  enough 


122  BOAT  BUILDING. 

for  the  deck  beams  to  rest  on  it.  These  beams  will  be  fast- 
ened to  upper  streak  and  clamp  with  knees  on  each  beam 
about  the  mast.  The  deck  may  be  of  f  or  ^in.  pine,  either 
painted  or  covered  with  canvas.  The  dimensions  of  the 
boat  given  in  tiie  illustration  are  as  follows:  Length  overall, 
14ft. ;  beam  extreme,  4ft. ;  depth  amidships,  17in. ;  sheer  for- 
ward, T^in. ;  sheer  aft.  Sin.  Waterlines,  Sin.  apart.  The 
waterlines  are  drawn  for  convenience  parallel  to  the  keel, 
but  the  actual  draft  of  the  boat  will  be  Tin.  forward  and 
9^in.  aft.  Keel  outside,  lin. ;  keel,  stem  and  stern  sided, 
liin. ;  keel  batten,  |x'i|in. ;  timbers,  |xfin. ;  spaced  12in., 
with  bent  floors  between  each  pair  of  timbers;  planking, 
fin. ;  upperstreak,  ^in. ;  gunwale,  lin.  deep,  1^  wide  amid- 
ships, fin.  at  ends. 


APPENDIX. 


COMPARISON     OF     CANOE     ELEMENTS. 


A  8  AN  AID  to  the  amateur  designer  in  deciding  on  the 
-^^  proportions  of  bis  craft,  the  following  table  has  been 
compiled,  giviug  the  elements  of  some  of  the  best  known 
boats.  The  first  column  gives  the  length  on  waterline,  the 
second  the  beam  at  loadline,  and  the  third  the  ratio  of  length 
to  beam  or  -g.  The  fourth  column  gives  the  distance  of 
the  midship  section  from  the  fore  end  of  waterline,  and  the 
fifth  and  sixih  give  the  proportions  of  fore  body  and  after 
body.  The  seventh  column  contains  the  product  of  the 
length  on  waterline,  beam,  and  depth  from  waterline  to 
rabbet,  giving  an  approximate  comparison  of  the  displace- 
ments. In  order  to  compare  the  relative  fullness  of  the 
various  models  on  the  waterline,  the  forward  part  of  the 
waterline  is  divided  in  half,  and  a  line  K  C,  Plate  I.  is 
drawn  and  measured.  This  line  is  called  the  "middle 
ordinate,"  and  is  greater  as  the  waterline  is  fuller.  Column 
seven  shows  the  ratio  of  this  middle  ordinate  to  the  extreme 
breadth  of  the  waterhae,  the  average  being  about  .36.  As  a 
further  comparison,  a  dividing  buttock  line  v  r,  is  drawn 
in  the  half  bnadth  plan,  parallel  to  the  centerline,  and  mid 
way  between  it  and  the  greatest  beam  This  line  intersects 
the  waterline  in  two  places,  r  in  the  forebody,  and  v  in  the 
afterbody.  The  distance  of  each  intersection  from  its 
respective  end  of  the  waterline,  or  the  lines  r  s,  t  v,  are 
measured,  and  columns  eight  and  nine  give  respectively  the 
ratios  of  r  s,  to  the  length  of  forebody,  and  t  vto  the  length 


124    COMPARISON  OF  CANOhJ  ELEMENTS. 

of  afterbody.  By  the  aid  of  these  three  columns  the  water- 
lines  may  be  run  in  readily  in  the  preliminary  drawing.  All 
measurements,  for  the  convenience  of  calculation,  are  in  feet 
and  decimals. 


Elements  of  Canoes. 


Nautilus,  Cruising.  1830 
NamilusKo.  8,  Rating, 

1879    

Nautilus  No.  9.  Racing 

and  Cruising,  1881. . . 
Nautilus  No.  5.  Racing 

and  Cruising,  1874. . . 
Pearl  No.  3,  Cruising. 

1882 

Pearl   No.    5,    Racing 

and  Cruising,  ISiO. . . 
Pearl    No.    6,    Racing 

and  Cruising,  1882. . . 
Clyde  Wren,  Cruising. 

1879 

Clyde   Laloo,    Racing 

and  Cruising,  1881. . . 

Shadow,  Cruising,  1878 

Rob  Roy,  Cruising.  1867 
Jersey    Blue    No.     1, 

Cruisiug,  1878 

Jersey    Blue     No.    2, 

Cruising,  1880 

Raritania,      Cruising, 

1883 

Kill  von  Kull,  1880 


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19.0 

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87 

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13.75 

2.42 

5.7 

6.65 

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14.0 

.36 

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2.0 

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6.55 

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2.42 

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13.2 

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1.96 

8.9 

8.5 

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12.0 

.49 

.32 

.80 

MEASUREMENT    RULES. 


AMERICAN  CANOE  ASSOCIATION. 

Rule  1. — A  canoe  to  compete  in  any  race  of  the  A.  C.  A. 
must  be  sharp  at  both  ends,  with  no  counter  stern,  or  tran- 
som, and  must  be  capable  of  being  efficiently  paddled  by 
one  man.  To  compete  in  A.  C.  A.  paddling  races,  it  must 
come  within  the  limits  of  one  of  the  numbered  classes, 
I.,  11.,  III.,  rv.,  and  to  compete  in  sailing  races,  it  must 
come  within  the  limits  of  either  Class  A  or  B. 

Class  I. — Paddling. — Any  canoe. 

Class  II. — Paddling. — Length  not  over  loft.,  beam  not 
under  2Giu.     Depth  not  under  Sin. 

Class  III. — Paddling. — Length  not  over  16ft.,  beam 
not  under  28in.     Depth  not  under  9in. 

Class  IV. — Paddling. — Length  not  over  16ft.,  beam 
not  under  30in.     Depth  as  in  Class  III. 

Class  A. — Sailing. — Lengtli  not  over  16ft.,  beam  not 
over  28in. 

Class  B. — Sailing. — Length  not  over  17in.,  with  a 
limit  of  28Mn.  beam  for  that  length.  The  beam  may  be 
increased  iin.  for  each  full  inch  of  length  decreased. 

The  greatest  depth  of  a  canoe  in  Classes  A  and  B,  at 
fore  end  of  well,  from  under  side  of  deck  amidships  to 
inner  side  of  garboard  next  to  keel,  shall  not  exceed  16in. 

In  centerboard  canoes  the  keel  outside  of  the  garboard 
shaL  not  exceed  l^Jin.  in  depth,  including  a  metal  keel 


136  MEASUREMENT  RULES. 

band  of  not  over  ^in.  deep.  The  total  weight  of  all  cen- 
terboards  shall  not  exceed  60  j)ounds;  and  they  must  not 
drop  more  than  l8in.  below  the  garboard;  when  hauled 
up  tbej  must  not  project  below  the  keel  except  as  follows: 
Canoes  built  before  May  1,  18S5,  may  be  fitted  with  cen- 
terboards  which,  when  hauled  up,  may  project  below  the 
keel,  provided  such  projection  of  board  and  case  is  not 
more  than  2iin.  in  depth  below  the  garboard,  and  not 
more  than  36in.  in  length.  In  order  to  be  admitted  in 
races  without  ballast,  the  centerboard  or  boards,  includ- 
ing bolts  and  other  movable  parts,  but  not  including  fixed 
trunks  c  r  cases,  must  not  exceed  15  pounds  in  total  weight. 
Canoes  without  centerboard  s  may  carry  keels,  not  over 
Sin.  deep  from  garboards,  and  not  weighing  more  than 
35  pounds.  Leeboards  may  be  carried  by  canoes  not 
having  centerboards. 

Measukement. — The  length  shall  be  taken  between 
perpendictdars  at  the  fore  side  of  stem  and  at  the  aft  side 
of  stern,  the  beam  at  the  widest  part  not  including  bead- 
ing, which  shall  not,  in  Classes  A  and  B,  exceed  l^in.  in 
depth,  any  beading  over  this  depth  being  included  in  the 
beam.  The  word  "beam"  shall  mean  the  breadth  formed 
by  the  fair  lines  of  the  boat,  and  the  beam  at  and  near 
the  waterlLne  in  the  paddling  classes  shall  bear  a  reason- 
able proportion  to  the  beam  at  the  gunwale.  The  Regatta 
Committee  shall  have  power  to  disqualify  any  canoe 
which,  in  their  opinion,  is  built  with  an  evident  intention 
to  evade  the  above  rules.  As  the  minimum  in  Class  IV. 
coincides  with  the  maximum  in  Class  B,  a  margin  of  iin. 
is  to  be  allowed  in  measTiring  for  these  classes,  in  order 
that  a  canoe  built  to  come  well  within  one  class  may  not 
thereby  be  ruled  out  of  another. 


AMA  TEUR  CANOE  B UILDING.  12'i 

ROYAL  CANOE  CLUB. 

Canoes  for  paddling  races  must  not  be  of  greater  length, 
not  of  less  beam  and  must  be  of  the  material  and  construc- 
tion set  out  in  the  following  classes  : 

First  Class. — Any  cauoe. 

Second  Class — (Uob  Roy). — Any  material  or  build,  deck- 
ed with  wood  ;  greatest  length  not  more  than  15ft.,  greatest 
beam  not  more  than  26in. 

Third  Class — (Rob  Roy). — Clinker  built,  of  any  material, 
decked  with  wood  ;  greatest  length  not  more  than  loft., 
greatest  beam  not  less  than  26in. 

Canoes  for  sailing  races  shall  not  be  over  the  following 
dimensions,  viz.  : 

First  Class. — Any  material  and  build;  greatest  length 
over  all,  from  stem  to  sternpost,  not  more  than  20ft.,  with  a 
limit  of  beam  of  2ft.,  but  the  beam  maybe  increased  by 
li^in.  for  each  whole  foot  of  length  decreased;  greatest  depth 
at  fore  end  of  well,  under  the  center  of  the  deck  to  the  gar- 
board,  not  more  than  16in.  Fixed  keel  of  wood,  not  more 
than  21n.  deep;  a  metal  band  not  exceeding  -Jin.  in  depth, 
may  be  added  to  the  wooden  keel,  in  which  case  the  depth, 
of  the  keel  inclusive  of  band  must  not  exceed  2in. 

One  or  more  boards  are  allowed  of  any  material,  thickness 
not  exceeding  -fiQ. ;  length,  combined  if  more  than  one,  not 
exceeding  half  the  canoe's  length:  depth  of  drop  not  exceed- 
ing 18in.  below  the  fixed  keel  or  its  metal  band.  "When 
hauled  up  they  must  be  completely  housed  within  the  canoe. 

All  ballast,  anchors  or  other  metal  weights  (except  center- 
board  and  keelband  before  described,  and  metal  deck  fittings) 
shall  be  carried  within  the  canoe,  above  the  garboards.  Bal- 
Ir.st  may  be  shifted  during  a  race,  but  all  ballast  on  board  at 
starting  must  be  carried  throughout  the  race. 

Second  Class  Cruising  Canoes. — The  canoes  in  this  class 
shall  not  exceed  the  dimensions  of  First  Class.  Keels  and 
centerboards  as  in  First  Class.  "Weight  of  canoe,  including 
all  spars,  gear,  fitting  and  ballast,  not  over  200  pounds. 


STEERING    GEARu 


"VTO  detail  of  the  fittings  of  canoes  is  as  important  for 
-'-^  safety  and  comfort,  as  that  by  which  the  rud Jer  is  con- 
trolled, and  no  part  is  so  often  ill-contrived  and  badly  fitted 
up. 

The  strong  and  simple  tiller  of  the  sailboat  cannot  be  used, 
owing  to  the  distance  of  the  crew  from  the  stern  of  the  boat, 
and  also  to  the  necessity  of  using  the  feet  for  steering,  the 
hands  being  fully  occupied  with  the  sheets,  paddle  and  cen- 
terboard.  To  be  of  any  real  use,  the  footgear  must  be 
strong,  as  a  very  heavy  strain  is  often  thrown  on  it  involun- 
tarily by  the  powerful  toggle-joints  of  the  knees,  au'l  the  fail- 
ure of  any  part,  when  in  rough  water  or  in  rapids,  might 
bring  disaster  to  the  boat  and  crew. 

The  action  of  the  rudder  must  be  prompt  and  certain 
without  lost  motion,  there  must  be  a  firm  bearing  for  the 
heels  in  paddling,  and  for  the  ball  of  the  foot  in  steering,  and 
both  must  be  readily  adjustable  to  suit  the  length  of  the  leg 
of  the  crew.  As  canoeists  know,  it  is  often  a  great  relief, 
when  in  the  canoe  for  a  long  time,  to  slacken  out  the  foot- 
gear, and  lean  back  easily  while  sailing  or  paddling  ilowly, 
but  as  soon  as  a  hard  paddle  is  in  prospect,  the  body  is  set- 
tled upright  against  the  backboard,  and  the  footgear  short- 
ened up  until  the  feet  are  braced  firmly  against  it  for  a  long, 
swinging  stroke.  The  footgear  must  also  be  so  arranged  as  tc 
be  readily  removed  for  sleeping,  stowing  luggage,  or  to  carry 
a  second  person,  and,  if  possible,  it  should  be  so  fitted  that 
the  second  man  can  steer  while  paddling. 

From  the  days  of  the  earliest  canoeist  to  the  time  of 
McGregor,  the  paddle  only  was  used  for  steering,  either  hela 
in  the  hands  or  resting  ia  a  small  rowlock  ou  either  side. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  129 

called  a  crutch — Fig.  1 — a  plan  that  answered  well  with  the 
small  sail  then  used;  but  with  the  greater  number  and  area 
of  sails  something  more  became  necessary,  and  rudders  were 
fitted,  controlled  by  a  continuous  line  passing  along  the 
deck  and  around  the  fore  end  of  the  well,  a  pull  on  either 
side  steering  the  boat.  The  increased  work  thrown  on  the 
hoods  by  the  addition  of  ballast,  centerboard,  spinnaker, 
etc.,  made  it  necessary  to  transfer  the  steering  to  the  feet, 
which  had  hitherto  been  idle,  so  the  rudder  lines  were  run 
through  the  coaming  into  ihe  well,  and  loops  tied  in  the  ends 
into  which  the  feet  were  inserted,  an  arrangement  still 
further  improved  by  the  addition  of  metal  stirrups.  This 
gave  a  very  powerful  and  sensitive  gear,  and  it  was  not  in 
the  way  in  the  least,  but  tliere  were  some  serious  defects  in 
it;  there  being  no  brace  for  the  feet  in  paddling,  the  stirrups 
were  apt  to  slip  off  at  times  when  it  was  impossible  to  stop 
and  lean  forward  and  lephice  them,  while  in  case  of  an  up- 
set the  lines  might  not  free  themselves  and  would  entangle 
the  canoeist's  feet.  In  one  case  a  canoeist,  forgetting  to 
loosen  his  feet,  leaped  ashore  suddenly  and  was  thrown  flat 
in  the  water  by  the  rudder  lines 

A  much  better  plan  was  devised  by  Mr.  Baden-Powell  for 
his  first  Nautilus  canoe.  As  shown  in  Fig.  3,  a  vertical 
spindle  of  wood  has  its  lower  end  fitted  to  turn  in  a  step  on 
the  keelson,  the  upper  end  running  through  the  deck,  the 
projecting  portion  being  square.  Below  the  deck  a  crossbar, 
called  the  "foot  yoke,"  was  fitted  to  the  spindle,  and  above 
deck  a  second  crosspiecc,  the  '  'deck  yoke, "  was  fitted  to  the 
square  head,  the  rudder  lines  running  along  the  deck  to  it. 
This  gear  was  used  for  a  long  time  on  the  Nautilus  and  all 
its  descendants,  and  is  still  often  met  with.  It  had  many 
defects,  there  was  no  brace  in  paddling,  its  position,  oucc 
fixed,  could  not  be  changed,  so  it  was  usually  just  too  long 
or  too  short  for  the  crew,  it  was  in  the  way  in  stowing, 
sleeping,  or  carrying  double,  the  lines  on  deck  added  to  the 
confusion  there,  and  the  parts  required  careful  fitting,  and 
brass  bushings  at  the  joints,  or  they  soon  worked  loose. 
Several  of  these  objections  were  removed  by  some  ingenioui 


180  STEERING  GEAR. 

canoeist,  who  cast  aside  the  deck  yoke,  lengthened  the  foot 
yoke  and  ran  the  lines  inside  the  well,  to  the  extremities  of 
the  latter. 

The  gear  shown  in  Fig.  4  was  first  fitted  to  the  canoe 
Janette,  in  1877.  Two  pieces  of  wood,  each  lixljin.  and 
lOin.  long,  were  screwed  to  the  bottom  on  each  side  of  the 
keel,  running  fore  and  aft,  each  piece  having  four  vertical 
notches  to  receive  the  stretcher,  a  piece  of  oak  |in.  thick. 

On  the  foreside  of  the  stretcher  a  piece  of  oak  lin.  square 
was  screwed,  the  upper  end  rounded  for  the  foot  yoke  to 
pivot  on.  The  stretcher  could  be  slipped  into  either  of  the 
four  pairs  of  notches,  and  was  then  held  down  by  a  hook 
and  a  screwcye  in  the  keel.  This  gear  gave  a  firm  rest  in 
paddling,  it  was  strong  in  construction,  there  was  no  lost 
motion,  and  it  could  be  quickly  shifted  (to  make  room  for  a 
second  person)  to  a  pair  of  similar  notches  placed  forward. 

An  improvement  on  this  plan  is  shown  in  Fig.  5,  in  which 
the  two  fore  and  aft  pieces  are  grooved  on  the  sides  facing 
each  other,  and  a  piece  of  oak  fin.  thick  and  Gin.  wide 
is  fitted  to  slide  freely  between  them.  To  this  piece  the 
stretcher  or  footpiece  is  fastened,  and  in  the  angle  between 
them  is  a  brass  knee  or  biace,  shown  separately,  the  top 
of  which  forms  a  pivot  for  the  footyoke.  An  eye  is  cast 
on  the  afterside  of  the  brace,  in  which  a  short  lanyard 
is  spliced.  This  lanyard  reeves  through  a  screweye  in  the 
keel,  and  by  it  the  gear  may  be  held  in  any  position,  or  by 
casting  it  off,  the  entire  piece  may  be  removed.  Another 
pair  of  slides  can  be  fitted  forward  or  aft,  as  may  be  desired 
for  carrying  two.  This  gear  seems  to  fulfill  every  requisite, 
and  has  thus  far  answered  well  wherever  tried. 

The  canoe  Raven  has  a  novel  arrangement,  shown  in  Fig. 
6,  consisting  of  two  wooden  pedals  hinged  at  the  bottom  to 
a  brass  rod,  a  rudder  line  being  attached  to  the  outer  corner 
of  each.  A  stout  brass  spring  maintains  a  constant  tension 
or\  the  pedals,  and  is  so  formed  as  to  hold  them  fiat  on  the 
floor  when  the  rudder  lines  are  cast  off.  By  this  arrange- 
ment the  rudder  is  always  kept  amidship  when  left  tc  itself. 
The  brass  rod  is  held  in  two  holes  in  the  fore  and  aft  cleats. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  131 

and  may  be  adjusted  in  the  other  boles  as  shown.  A  better 
plan  would  be  to  hinge  the  pedals  with  the  spring  on  a 
board  sliding  as  in  Fig.  5,  for  which  purpose  the  ordinary 
spring  butts  of  brass  answer  very  Veil. 

The  steering  gear,  shown  in  Fig.  7,  in  which  the  foot  yoke 
is  carried  on  a  spindle  passing  through  and  supported  by  an 
arched  piece  of  wood,  the  lower  end  resting  in  one  of  several 
holes  in  the  floor,  was  devised  by  Mr.  Rushton.  The  ends 
of  the  arched  piece  slide  in  grooved  pieces  on  the  floor,  and 
by  pulling  up  the  spindle  the  gear  may  be  slid  forward  or 
backward,  the  spindle  end  being  shipped  again  in  one  of  the 
holes. 

Where  there  is  a  centerboard  in  the  canoe  the  footyoke  is 
pivoted  in  a  bracket  ou  the  after  end  of  the  trunk,  in  which 
case  its  position  is  fixed,  and  the  length  can  only  be  changed 
by  using  a  straight,  concave  or  convex  yoke.  The  Pearl 
canoe  is  fitted  with  a  yoke  attached  lo  the  trunk.  Fig.  8,  but 
in  order  to  steer  with  the  feet  when  lying  down,  as  is  done  in 
sailing  to  windward,  the  yoke  has  two  loops  of  leather 
fastened  to  its  fore  side,  in  which  the  feet  are  inserted. 

In  most  of  the  match-sailing  in  this  country  the  crew  is 
seated  on  the  deck  and  the  footgear  is  out  of  reach.  To  steer 
from  the  deck,  a  tiller,  shown  in  Fig.  9,  is  used,  having  been 
first  applied  to  the  Dot  in  1879,  and  since  fitted  to  many 
other  canoes.  A  yoke  is  pivoted  on  deck  just  aft  of  the 
hatch,  and  to  this  yoke  a  short  tiller  is  fastened  within  easy 
reach  of  the  hand.  Two  short  lines  join  the  ends  of  the 
deck  and  rudder  yokes.  All  parts  of  the  gear  require  to  bis 
made  very  strongly,  as  a  great  strain  is  sometimes  thrown  on 
the  tiller  by  the  weight  of  the  body.  The  tiller  is  sometimes 
fitted  lo  pivot  on  the  mizzen  mast,  and  is  so  arranged  that  a 
turn  of  the  handle  clamps  it  fast,  in  any  position.  Another 
device  for  steering  by  hand  was  applied  to  the  Folly.  S.  F. 
C.  C,  by  her  owner;  a  half  yoke  only  is  used  on  the  rudder. 
Fig.  2.,  with  a  stud  in  the  end.  A  pole  long  enough  to  reach 
the  well  has  a  ring  in  one  end,  which  is  slipped  over  the 
stud,  a  push  or  pull  on  the  pole  moves  the  rudder.  A  Ian- 
yard  on  the  fore  cud  of  the  pole  is  belayed   to  a  cleat  and 


132  STEERING  GEAR. 

keeps  it  from  going  adrift  if  dropped  suddenly.  This  gear 
is  used  in  the  left  hand,  and  is  not  well  adapted  to  steering 
from  deck. 

Another  device,  only  mehtioned  to  warn  canoeists  against 
it,  has  a  single  stirrup  on  one  side,  with  a  powerful  spring 
on  the  other.  Should  the  foot  be  suddenly  removed  from 
the  stirrup  the  rudder  is  drawn  quickly  to  one  side  and  held 
there.  The  proper  material  for  rudder  lines  has  long  been  a 
subject  of  dispute  among  canoeists,  and  is  still  undecided, 
some  advocating  copper  wire,  some  chain,  some  a  rope  of 
brass  or  copper  wire,  and  some  a  braided  or  hard  laid  cord, 
the  last  being  probably  the  best,  if  well  stretched  and  oiled. 
It  will  work  easily  and  without  the  disagreeable  clang  of 
wire,  and  will  not  kink  as  chain  will  do.  Whatever  material 
is  used,  it  should  lead  as  directly  as  possible  from  the  foot- 
gear to  the  rudder,  with  no  sharp  turns,  and  holes  and 
screweyes  through  which  it  passes  should  be  perfectly 
smooth.  The  rudder  lines  are  in  some  cases  run  through 
brass  tubes  below  deck,  but  this  is  seldom  necessary,  and 
they  are  best  led  in  around  the  after  side  of  the  well  coam- 
ing. Some  means  of  taking  up  the  slack  in  the  line  is  neces- 
sary, the  usual  way  being  to  use  a  small  "fiddle"  similar  to 
those  used  for  tent  ropes,  as  in  Fig.  4.  If  obtainable,  smaU 
snap-hooks  should  be  used  to  attach  the  lines  to  the  yokes. 

When  in  use,  the  steering  gear  should  be  examined  often, 
the  parts  oiled,  new  lines  put  in  if  required,  and  all  parts 
kept  in  perfect  order.  Before  a  race,  of  course,  it  will 
receive  special  attention,  any  parts  that  appear  weak  being 
strengthened  for  the  occasion.  Such  care  is  never  thrown 
away,  and  it  is  from  the  lack  of  just  such  attention  that  pro 
yoking  mishaps  occur. 


THE    FARNHAM    APRON. 


MR.  FARNHAM  offers  the  following  additional  instruc 
tions  concerning  the  apron  described  on  page  63. 
t.  Carline  wires  are  bent  so  as  to  form  a  hook  outside  the 
beading  of  the  coaming,  but  they  do  not  hook  under  this 
beading,  for  tbey  would  then  prevent  the  apron  from  com- 
ing free  in  case  of  a  capsize. 

8.  If  the  forward  tube  were  fastened  directly  to  the  coam- 
ing, as  shown,  the  apron  could  not  be  pushed  far  enough 
forward  to  uncover  all  the  cockpit. 

3.  The  apron  is  not  kept  down  by  the  ends  of  the  carlines 
hooking  under  the  beading,  but  by  the  elastic  in  the  hem, 

4.  The  latch  or  catch  to  keep  the  apron  stretched  must 
be  just  forward  of  the  last  carline  /,  and  not  at  i.  The 
apron  will  not  readily  come  free  if  fastened  at  i. 

5.  The  apron  is  better  cut  4^^  to  5  inches  larger  each  way 
than  the  coaming.  The  hem  is  then  wide  enough  to  give 
two  thicknesses  of  cloth  along  the  top  of  the  coaming, 
where  the  wear  is  greatest. 


THE    WINDWARD    CANOE    TENT. 


ABETTER  tent  than  the  one  described  on  page  100  is  now 
used  on  the  Windward.  The  top  is  a  triangle,  the 
width  at  the  after  end  being  2ft.  The  sides  are  also  triangu- 
lar, about  2^ft.  wide  at  after  ends.  The  fore  ends  of  top  and 
sides  meet  in  a  point,  which  is  fastened  to  the  bow  of  the 
canoe.  ** 

The  after  part  of  the  tent  is  square,  2x2^ft.,  and  the 
upper  edge  is  sewn  to  the  after  end  of  the  top,  making  a 
hem,  in  which  is  a  small  stick.  The  tent  is  hung  by  a  line 
from  the  mizzenmast  to  this  stick.  The  seams,  from  the 
ends  of  the  stick  to  the  bow,  where  the  sides  join  the  roof, 
should  be  sewn  to  a  light  rope,  or  the  sides  will  be  drawn 
out  of  shape. 


COMPOSITE    CENTERBOARDS. 


T^HE  following  plan  for  the  construction  of  a  centerboard 

J-     is  iUustrated  in  Plate  XVIII. : 

The  sailing  canoes  of  the  Royal  Canoe  Club,  of  England, 
frequently  carried  centerboards  of  thick  iron  plate,  weighinir 
fifty  or  sixty  pounds.  Several  canoes,  chiefly  "Pearls," 
have  recently  been  built  to  carry  similar  heavy  centerboards 
on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic.  A  heavy  iron  centerboard 
forms  most  excellent  ballast  when  lowered,  but  it  bos  some 
disadvantages.  It  is  unhandy  to  lift  in  and  out  of  the  canoe, 
especially  if  the  latter  is  bobbing  about  on  broken  water  by 
a  wharf.  "When  fully  housed  in  the  centerboard  box,  it 
makes  a  good  deal  of  top-haavy  weight,  and  helps  the  canoe 
to  roll.  Acting  on  a  hiot  given  to  me  by  Mr.  W.  P. 
Stephens,  at  Lake  George  last  August,  I  have  designed,  and 
have  had  constructed  a  centerboard  loaded  with  lead,  in 
which  the  greater  part  of  the  weight  is  concentrated  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  board.  A  skeleton  frame  of  bar  iron  is 
first  made,  and  on  each  side  of  this  is  riveted  a  sheet  of 
iron  -I'g-in-  thick.  This  makes  a  hollow  centerboard  of  a 
total  thickness  of  fin. ,  and  weighing  2'i  pounds.  Two  light 
iron  frames,  i^gin.  wide,  with  long  handles,  are  made  to  fit 
into  the  lower  part  of  the  inside  of  the  centerboard.  These 
frames  are  loaded  with  lead,  and  each  then  weighs  13  pounds, 
thus  making  the  total  weight  of  the  centerboard  49  pounds 
when  fuUy  loaded.  This  new  board  will,  I  think,  be  found 
to  possess  the  following  advantages: 

The  weight  being  concentrated  in  the  bottom  of  the  center 
board  gives  better  ballasting  power  with  less  actual  weight. 
I  hope  that  my  49-pound  board  will  give  as  much  sail 
carrying  power  as  a  65-pound  iron  plate  would. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  135 

The  lead-loaded  board  will  act  as  ballasl  even  when 
housed  in  the  canoe,  and  will  not  make  the  canoe  roll,  as 
the  greater  part  of  the  weight  is  tnen  within  5  inches  of  the 
bottom  line  of  the  keel. 

For  the  tame  reason,  most  valuable  help  is  afforded  in 
righting  the  canoe  when  capsized,  even  if  the  board  should 
slip  back  into  the  box  or  had  not  been  lowered.  A  button 
across  the  slot  on  deck  will  prevent  the  board  being  un- 
shipped in  the  event  of  the  canoe  turning  bottom  up. 

Wh(;n  sailing  in  shallow  water  the  whole  weight  of  the 
lead  can  be  got  below  the  keel  by  lowering  the  centerboard 
Sin.  only. 

It  is  much  easier  to  handle  in  removing  it  from  the  canoe 
or  putting  it  on  board.  Instead  of  one  heavy  lift  of  50 
pounds,  you  first  remove  13  pounds  of  lead,  then  lift  another 
13,  and  finish  with  a  lift  of  23  pounds. 

When  a  light  centerboard  only  is  wanted,  leave  the  lead 
at  home.  This  will  in  some  cases  save  the  necessity  of  a 
man  keeping  two  centerboards. 

In  the  accompanying  drawing,  at  figure  1,  the  board  is 
shown  with  one  side  removed,  so  as  to  bring  the  internal 
economy  to  view.  Starting  at  F,  the  frame  is  continued  to 
E,  thence  to  D  and  L.  It  is  not  continued  up  to  the  top 
comer  at  C,  but  is  taken  across  to  M,  continuing  to  I,  it 
doubles  back  in  a  sort  of  loop,  and  is  welded  at  N.  This 
gives  doubled  strength  at  M  and  Bb,  where  the  greatest 
strain  is.  The  dotted  line  A  B  shows  the  line  of  the  keel 
when  the  board  is  lowered.  The  portion  of  the  frame  from 
E  to  about  >[  is  made  of  bar  iron  ^  deep  by  ^^in.  thick. 
From  E  to  L  it  is  chamfered  off  to  an  edge,  as  shown  by 
the  line  R  R  R,  so  as  to  cut  the  water  easily.  A  hook  is 
welded  on  at  P,  which  hooks  on  to  the  king  bolt.  "Where 
the  sheet  iron  is,  the  frame  U  4in.  thick;  where  not  covered 
with  sheet  iron — G,  I,  A,  and  F  to  O — it  is  -f  thick,  so  as  to 
give  a  uniform  thickness  throughout. " 

The  sheet  iron  is  shown  by  the  lightly  shaded  part. 
Starting  at  P,  its  outer  edge  passes  H,  and  Aa  to  G  where  it 
is  level  with  tho  outer  edge  of  the  centerboard.     It  coa- 


136  COMPOSITE  CENTEBB0AKD8. 

tinues  past  M  and  C  to  L,  where  it  takes  a  jog  inward  for 
half  an  inch  to  the  line  R  R  R.  It  follows  the  chamfer 
along  the  bottom  of  the  board  to  near  E  and  np  to  P  again. 
The  upper  corner  L  C  M  is  composed  merely  of  the  two 
thicknesses  of  sheet  iron,  and  is  only  an  eighth  of  an  inch 
thick,  except  where  it  widans  oat  as  it  approaches  the  bar 
L  M.  This,  while  giving  plenty  of  strength,  gives  room  for 
the  chain  shackle  at  C  without  thinning  down  and  weaken- 
ing the  frame,  and  it  also  reduces  somewhat  the  top-heavj'- 
weight  of  frame  at  the  corner.  These  two  sheets  of  iron, 
1  gin.  thick,  are  riveted  to  the  frame  by  copper  rivets  as 
shown,  and  are  chamfered  oil  from  L  to  D  and  D  to  E,  to 
correspond  wilh  the  chamfer  of  the  frame.  From  C  to  L 
the  edges  of  the  sheets  are  brought  together  so  as  1o  continue 
the  sharp  edge.  Figure  2  gives  a  full-sized  section  at  one  of 
the  rivets.  The  two  frames  which  contain  the  lead  are 
made  of  |X|\in.  iron,  hammered  on  the  edge  down  to-^^. 
which  increases  the  thickness  slightly.  They  are  shown  at 
S,  T,  U,  V,  and  X,  Y,  Z,  O.  The  load  is  held  by  pieces  of 
stout  wire  which  are  riveted  in  the  frames  before  the  melted 
lead  is  poured  into  them.  These  wires  are  shown  by  dotted 
lines.  The  frames  are  fitted  with  long  handles  V I  and  O  J, 
which  terminate  in  eyes  1  and  J.  Above  the  eye  J  is  a  but- 
ton K,  working  on  a  bolt  F,  secured  by  two  jammed  nuts 
below.  This  makes  it  impossible  for  the  lead  to  fall  out  if 
the  centerboard  is  upside  down.  The  eyes  I  and  J  project 
above  the  deck. 

To  take  out  the  lead  when  the  board  is  housed  in  its  box, 
turn  the  button  K,  put  your  finger  in  the  eye  J,  and  lift  out 
the  forward  lead  fiame,  then  by  means  of  the  eye  I,  drag 
the  aft  frame  forward,  and  lift  it  out. 

Robert  Tyson,  Toronto  Canoe  Club. 

The  smaller  sketch  is  a  suggestion  of  Mr.  King's,  in  con- 
nection with  the  same  design. 


DESCRIPTION   OF   PLATES. 


Plate  I. — Cruising  Canoe  "Jersey  Blue." 

The  first  canoe  of  this  name  was  desiarned  and  built  by 
Mr.  W.  P.  Stephens  in  the  winter  of  1877-78,  being  intended 
for  a  cruising  boat.  The  dimensions  were  nearly  the  same 
as  the  present  boat,  but  the  model  was  quite  different,  with 
greater  sheer,  long  bow  and  full  quarters.  She  was  fitted 
with  deck  hatches,  sliding  hatch  to  well,  rudder,  and  the 
footgear  shown  iu  Fig.  4,  Plate  XVII.,  and  was  rigged  as  a 
schooner,  two  boom  and  gaff  sails  and  jib.  The  rig  was 
subsequently  changed  to  leg  of  mutton,  and  later  to  balance 
lug.  The  model  shown  in  Plate  I.  and  II.  was  designed 
in  1880  for  the  same  purpose  as  the  preceding  one,  general 
cruising,  and  a  number  of  canoes  have  been  built  from  it. 

Plate  I.  shows  the  lines  of  the  boat,  and  also  method  of 
putting  them  on  paper  as  explained  in  the  chapter  on  design- 
ing. The  dimensions  and  table  of  offsets  are  given  on  pages 
13  and  22.  In  cruising  this  canoe  will  carry  a  mainsail  of 
45ft..  with  mizzen  of  18  to  20,  and  in  racing,  a  mainsail  of 
65  to  70  sq.  ft. 

Plate  II. — "Jeusey  Blue,"  Construction  Drawing. 

This  drawing  shows  the  arrangement  of  decks,  bulkheads, 
etc  ,  and  the  general  construction  of  the  same  canoe,  and  is 
described  on  pages  52-55. 

Plate  III. — River  Canoe,  "Raritakia." 

This  canoe  was  designed  by  Mr.  W.  P.  Stephens  in  1883, 

for  work  on  small  rivers  and  streams.     She  is  built  with  a 

flat  keel,  and  can  befitted  with  a  centerboard  or  a  false  keel 

of  wood  can  be  screwed  on.    The  floor  is  flat,  the  keel  pro- 


138 


DESCRIPTION  OF  PLATES, 


jects  but  Jin.,  and  on  each  side  are  oak  bilge  keels  fin, 
square.  On  to  tliese  and  the  main  keel  the  boat  rests 
squarely,  and  may  be  dragged  without  injury.  Two  .sails 
are  used,  either  leg  of  mutton  or  lateen,  the  latter  being  the 
better.  Their  areas  may  be  15  and  30ft.  for  cruising. 
Lenath  14ft.,  beam  27in.,  depth  amidships  G^in.,  shear  at 
bow  3Jin.,  sheer  at  stern  2^in.,  crown  of  deck  Sin. 


Half  Ei-eadths. 

Hei 

1 

-hts.      j 

§ 

Diagonar,  A.  B... 
Diagonal,  C.  D... 

to 

1 

B 

a 

9 

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5'      B 

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CO     CO 

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i 

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'    »         £ 

AMA  TEUR  CANOE  B UILDINO.  139 

Plate  IV. — The  Shadow  Canoe  "Dot." 
This  model  was  designed  by  cx-Com.  W.  L.  Alden,  N.  Y. 
C.  C,  in  1878,  and  was  built  by  Mr.  James  Everson.  The 
Dot  was  the  third  of  the  model  and  was  built  in  1878,  since 
which  she  has  been  widely  known  as  a  successful  racing  and 
cruising  boat,  ller  first  cruise  was  from  New  York  toRon- 
dout,  in  1878,  and  in  1880  she  made  a  cruise  on  the  Susque- 
hanna, from  Bingliamton  to  Harrisburg,  in  nine  and  a 
half  days,  since  which  she  has  made  many  short  cruises, 
besides  several  of  some  length.  Her  first  race  was  in  the  re- 
gatta of  1879,  in  which  she  was  beaten  by  boats  with  larger 
keels.  In  1880  the  keel  was  increased  to  2iin.,  and  in  1883 
to  3in.,  which  depth  is  sufllcient  to  take  her  to  windward, 
as  she  has  won  nearly  every  sailing  race  in  which  she  has 
entered,  including  five  for  the  Challenge  Cup,  besides  win- 
ning all  of  the  sailing  prizes  but  one  in  her  class  at  Lake 
George  in  1882.  Her  best  run  on  a  cruise  was  fifty  miles  in 
ten  hours  under  sail  and  paddle,  from  New  York  down  the 
Sound.  Her  owner,  Mr.  Vaux,  was  one  of  the  first  in  this 
conntry  to  use  lug  sails,  having  two  standing  lugs,  which 
were  changed  in  1881  for  balance  lugs.  She  was  also  the 
first  boat  steered  with  a  tiller,  the  crew  sitting  upon  deck. 
The  tollowing  are  her  principal  dimensions:       Ft.     In. 

Length  over  all 14       4 

Beam  at  Waterline 30 

Beam  at  deck £8 

Depth  at  bow I614 

Depth  at  stern ICi^ 

Depth  amidships t}^ 

Depthofkcel     2J^ 

Distance  from  fore  side  of  stem- 
To  forward  hatch I    2       g 

To  center  of  mainmast 2       C 

To  forward  bulkhead 3       6 

To  fore  end  of  coaming 4       (S% 

To  sliding  bulkhead 8      11 

To  after  end  of  well 10       8 

To  bulkhead 10      10 

To  center  of  mizz3nmast 11       4 

To  after  hatch ^  J^       ^H 

Weight  of  hull  when  in  use,  93  pounds. 


140 


DESCRIPTION  OF  PLATES. 


TABLE  OF  OFFSETS  FOR  CANOE  "DOT.' 


Half  Breadths. 

Diagonals. 

o 

1^1 

1 

Deck. 

L  W.  L. 

No.  2. 

No.  3. 

A.  B. 

CD. 

0 

16^ 

1 

12M 

CM 

50M 

4-M 

m 

7^ 

CM 
10^ 

a 

10^ 

IIW 
13)1 

9% 

8 

]2% 

a 

9J^ 

u 

13 

11 

15M 
lo5i 

12U 
11)1 

4 

9}^ 

14 

1.5 

Vi^ 

loll 

5 

9^ 

13J^ 

14^ 

13% 

15^ 

6 

11 

12^ 

1214 

■ig 

7i^ 

13U 

105^ 

V 

13^ 

7M 

6}i 

3 

8}^ 

71^ 

8 

le^ 

The  keel,  stem  and  stern  are  lin.  thick;  planking  (lap- 
streak,  5  planks  on  eacli  side),  Jin, ;  decks  and  hatches,  Jin.  ; 
ribs  of  oak,  Jxfin.,  spaced  6in.  apart.  Many  changes  have 
been  made  in  the  boat  as  experience  has  shown  them  to  be 
necessary;  the  fore  bulkhead,  shown  by  dotted  lines,  has 
been  removed,  the  fore  hatch  permanently  fastened  down, 
2in.  of  keil  added,  foremast  tube  shifted  forward  and  en- 
larged from  If  to  2in.,  the  old  steering  gear,  with  a  yoke  on 
deck  and  one  below,  replaced  by  a  yoke  btlow  deck  on  a 
vertical  pivot,  and  the  elliptical  well  entirely  covered  with 
hatches  changed  to  one  with  a  pointed,  flaring  coaming, 
with  an  apron.  The  paddle  used  for  several  seasons  past 
has  been  9ft.  long. 


Plate  V. — Racing  Sail  op  tiie  "Dot." 
The  racing  rig  of  the  Dot  con  ists  of  two  balance  lues,  of 
70ft.  and  35ft.,  the  larger  of  which  is  shown  in  Plate  V. 


DIMENSIONS   OF  SAILS. 

Main. 

Luff Gft.  lOln 

Leach, 10ft.    9in, 

Foot Oft. 

Head 7ft. 

Tack  to  peak 13ft. 

Clew  to  throat 10ft. 

Area 70  sq  f  t. 

Battens  24in.  apart  on  leach  and  22in.  on  luff. 


8in. 
Sin. 


7iD. 


Mizzeii. 

4ft. 

6ft.  4in. 
5ft.  Oin. 
4ft.  4in. 
7ft.  Sin. 
6ft.  3in. 
25  sq.  ft. 


A  MA  TEUR  CANOE  B  UILDINO.  141 

When  the  sail  is  taut  the  rinp  on  the  yard  is  drawn  close 
in  to  the  mast,  raising  the  yard  and  throwing  tlie  fore  end  a 
little  further  forward  than  it  is  shown.  The  halliard  a  a,  is 
hooked  into  an  eye  on  the  parrel,  c,  (the  latter  made  fast  to 
the  yard  just  forward  of  the  mast)  from  which  it  loads 
through  a  ring  on  the  yard,  thence  through  a  block  d,  at  the 
mast  head,  and  down  through  a  ring  lashed  to  the  mast,  near 
the  deck,  from  which  it  leads  to  a  cleat  abri^ast  the  well.  The 
tack  bb\s  seized  to  the  boom  just  forward  of  the  mast,  and 
leads  through  a  hook  on  the  boom  abaft  the  mast,  under  a 
hook  in  the  deck,  and  to  its  cleats. 

The  parrels  e  e,  are  made  fast  to  the  battens  just  forward 
and  aft  of  the  mast,  and  when  in  place,  hold  the  sail  in  to  the 
mast,  keeping  it  flatter,  and  relieving  the  masthead  of  con- 
siderable strain.  The  reefing  gear  is  rigged  as  follows:  Three 
deadeyes,  ///,  are  seized  to  the  boom  as  shown.  The  reef 
line  h,  from  the  leach,  is  in  two  parts  from  the  batten  to  the 
deadeye,  one  part  on  each  side  of  the  sail.  At  the  deadeye, 
they  unite  into  one  part,  leading  forward  along  the  boom, 
through  the  middle  deadeye,  thence  through  the  block  i,  on 
fore  reef  line.  This  line  g  also  runs  down  each  side  of  the 
sail,  through  the  deadeye,  and  is  then  lashed  to  the  single 
block  i.  A  pull  on  the  hauling  part  (the  halliard  being  first 
slacked  away)  brings  boom  and  batli  n  snugly  together,  the 
line  is  belayed  to  the  cleat  on  the  boom,  and  the  middle  reef- 
points  I  hooked  together,  or  a  third  line  may  be  added  in 
place  of  the  points.  A  similar  arrangement  may  be  rigged 
on  the  batten,  drawing  down  a  second  reef.  The  points  on 
the  halliard  where  it  is  belayed  wben  a  reef  is  hauled  down 
are  marked  with  colored  thrf  ad,  so  the  halliard  can  be  slacked 
away  the  proper  distance,  made  fast,  and  the  reef  hauled  in 
and  belayed.  A  sling  about  18in.  long  has  both  ends  seized 
to  the  boom.  On  this  a  deadeye  travels,  to  which  the  sheet 
is  fastened. 

Plate  VI. — Clyde  Canoe  "Laloo." 
The  following  description  of  the  Lidoo,  with  the  draw- 
ings, was  furnished  by  Mr.  C.  G.  Y.  Kinrr,  of  the  Clyde  C. 


142  DESCRIPTION  OF  PLATES. 

C,  a  well-known  canoeist,  as  well  as  an  amateur  designer  and 
builder.  The  desiga  differs  in  many  respects  from  American 
models,  and  has  never  been  tried  in  competition  with  them. 
It  will  be  noticed  that  the  lines,  which  show  the  inside  of 
planking,  are  narrowed  in  amidships  to  allow  the  boat  to 
spread  in  building. 

Mr.  King  says:  Talking  one  evening  over  a  quiet  pipe 
with  an  old  canoeing  friend,  Chailie  Livingstone,  of  Liver 
pool,  we  both  agreed  that  a  new  design  of  canoe  was  necis. 
sary  (to  our  ideas),  and  if  not  actually  promoting  canoeing, 
it  would  give  us  some  new  experience  in  canoes.  So  we  set 
to  work  sketching  free-haiid  designs,  and  in  course  of  time 
hit  upon  the  idea  of  a  canoe  having  very  full  lines  aft,  car- 
rying the  floor  well  forward,  so  as  to  give  the  basis  of  a  full 
bow  which  at  the  same  time  would  look  as  if  it  were  extra 
fine.  Our  aim  was  to  build  a  canoe  that  would,  for  her  size, 
bethestiffest  under  sail,  quickest  under  paddle,  and  a  good 
dry  seaboat.  We  succeeded.  The  lines  of  accompanying 
drawing  are  the  inside  or  skin  lines. 

To  those  who  do  not  understand  what  that  means,  a  few 
words  will  explain.  The  principal  dimensions  of  the  canoe 
are:  Length,  16ft. ;  beam,  31|in. ;  depth  from  inside  of  gir- 
boards  to  top  of  top-streak  amidships,  llfin. ;  depth  of  keel, 
including  metal  band,  2\va.  In  setting  up  the  frames  it  is  a 
wise  thing  to  cut  them  at  most  lin.  less  beam  amidship 
than  beam  required  when  finished,  as  the  thickness  of  the 
planks  each  side  has  to  be  allowed  for,  and  the  boat  is  almost 
dead  certain  to  fall  out  after  the  tie  beams  are  removed  pre- 
vious to  screwing  down  the  deck. 

The  drawings  give  a  sheer  plan,  a  bodj'^  plan  and  a  deck 
plan.  The  lines  A  and  B  in  all  three  are  buttock  lines.  The 
waterlines  are  indicated  in  the  body  and  deck  plans  by  1,, 
2,,  3,,  4,,  and  cross  sections  in  body  and  deck  plans  by  1,  2, 
3,  5,  0,  7.  The  midship  section  is  somewhat  different  from 
what  is  or  what  the  writer  knows  as  the  Shadow  model .  The 
Shadow  has  too  much  tumble  home  and  loses  stability  as  she 
lies  over  to  a  breeze. 

The  Laloo  has  her  greatest  beam  at  the  gunwale,  and  has 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  143 

no  tumble  from  bow  to  stern,  thereby  increasing  her  stability 
from  her  waterllne  to  lier  deck,  and  enabling  her  to  carry  an 
extra  amount  of  sail.  Her  sail  power  by  calculution  is 
53  sq.  ft.,  and  she  is  able  to  carry  that  spread  without  bal- 
last. She  can  carry  safely  for  racing  purposes  114  pounds 
of  lead,  and  with  that  amount  she  can  carry  85  sq.  ft.  sail. 
The  best  style  of  sail  to  have,  especially  in  Scotch  waters,  is 
the  batten  sail  with  a  running  reeGng  gear,  which  enables 
the  canoeist  to  reef  his  sail  close  down  while  unrler  way,  and 
without  more  exertion  than  hauling  on  a  cord  specially 
arranged  for  the  purpose. 

The  Laloo's  rig  is  one  lug  sail  of  Gj  sq.  ft.,  which  is  a 
handy  siz )  for  cruising  or  racing,  and  70  pounds  of  lead,  40 
pounds  placed  at  fore  end  of  well  in  front  of  the  foot-steer- 
ing gerr.  and  30  pounds  placed  aft  the  sliding  bulkhead  at 
aft  end  of  well.  To  those  who  might  contemplate  building 
such  a  craft  a  few  over-all  dimensions  of  deck  fittings  might 
come  in  handy.  Length  over  all,  from  bow  to  sternpost,  16lt. ; 
from  bow  to  center  of  mast  step,  2ft.  lOin. ;  from  center  of 
mast  step  to  fore  end  of  well,  4rt. ;  from  fore  end  of  well 
to  aft  end  of  well,  8ft.  5iin.  from  aft  end  of  well  to  aft  end 
of  hatch,  1ft.  6fin. ;  from  aft  end  of  hatch  to  sternpost,  4ft.; 
width  of  well  at  fore  end,  1ft. ;  width  of  well  at  aft  end, 
;.ft. ;  width  of  locker  hatch  at  fore  end,  1ft.  Sin. ;  width  of 
locker  hatch  at  aft  end,  1ft.  lin. ;  height  of  well  coaminp^s, 
l|in. ;  diameter  of  mast  at  deck,  2^\a. ;  diameter  of  mast  at 
head,  l^in.,  height  of  mast  from  deck,  10ft.  To  anyone 
si  udying  these  lines  and  comparing  them  with  those  of  other 
craft,  the  difference  will  be  very  marked.  It  was  predicted 
by  those  who  saw  the  canoe  under  construction  that  she 
would  have  a  heavy  drag  aft,  but  such  i3  not  the  case.  She 
enters  the  water  with  perfect  sweetness  and  leaves  it  with- 
out a  ripple  even  when  running  before  a  good  breeze  in  a 
calm  sea.  Her  stability  and  sail-carrying  power.i  leave  no 
loophole  for  adverse  criticism.  To  Mr.  Livingstone  is  all 
the  credit  due  for  insisting  on  carrying  out  and  building 
these  strange  lines  for  a  canoe  to  have.  She  is  easy  to  pad- 
dle considering  her  Sl^in.  beam,  and  her  stowage  capacity 


144  DESCRIPTION  OF  PLATES. 

is  most  ample  for  a  long  cruise.  She  is  perfectly  open  down 
below,  fore  and  aft;  has  no  water-tight  bulkheads,  but  has 
instead  probably  india  rubber  air  bags  fitted  to  her  shape 
(before  deck  is  screwed  down  at  bow  and  stern).  These  bags 
Mill  be  about  a  couple  of  feet  long,  and  can  be  inflated  at 
will,  and  have  more  than  enouoh.  buoyancy  to  float  the  canoe 
when  full  of  water,  and  with  her  crew  on  board. 

At  the  aft  end  of  well  is  a  sliding  bulkhead,  and  by  re- 
moving it  and  folding  back  the  hatch-lid  H,  room  can  be 
made  for  a  crew  of  two;  or  when  cruising  alone  without  a 
tent  a  comfortable  couch  can  be  obtained  in  a  few  seconds. 


Plate  VII. — SArL  Plan  of  "Laloo." 
This  sail  has  an  area  of  60  sq.  ft. ;  the  first  reef  has  16  sq. 
ft. ;  second  reef,  15  sq.  ft. ;  leaving  29  sq.  ft.  for  a  close  reef 
wiien  blowing  hard.  Figure  1  is  a  full  sail  plan,  showing  all 
the  rigging  necessary  without  being  complicated.  A  are  main 
halliard  blocks  at  masthead  and  foot  of  mast;  D  is  double 
block  for  topping  lift;  K  is  single  small  block  for  jackstay; 
J  S,  jackstay;  M  H,  main  halliard;  T  L,  topping  lifts — one 
on  each  side  of  sail;  B,  reefing  battens;  R,  reef  points;  RC, 
forward  reef  cord;  R  C  2,  after  reef  cord;  P,  loop  and  toggle 
to  secure  lower  end  of  topping  lift;  C,  cleat  to  receive  R  C 
2  when  reef  is  hauled  down. 

S  =  parrel  on  boom,  on  which  runs  a  deadeye  or  block, 
to  which  is  fastened  main  sheet.  When  lying  close  hauled 
the  block  is  at  the  after  end  of  S,  and  S  helps  to  distribute 
strain  OH  boom;  when  running  free  block  is  at  fore  end  of 
S  and  main  sheet  does  not  drag  in  the  water.  M  =  ma&t.  W 
on  boom  and  on  each  batten  are  parrels  to  keep  sail  close  up 
to  mast  so  that  it  won't  bag  with  the  wind.  W  O,  jack 
block.  Figure  2  illustrates  on  a  large  scale  how  to  fasten 
halliard  to  yard  so  as  to  dispense  with  the  services  of  a  trav- 
eler. T  at  the  throat  is  a  loop  fastened  to  the  yard  through 
which  passes  a  toggle  on  the  end  of  the  halliard.  The  hal- 
liard then  passes  round  the  opposite  side  of  the  mast,  from 
which  yard  and  sail  are,  is  reeved  through  block  B  on  yard, 
then  through  block  A  at  masthead,  then  down  to  block  at 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  145 

mast  foot  and  thence  to  cleat.  The  topping  lifts  are  toggled 
to  boom  so  as  to  be  easily  detached  when  spinnaker  is  to  be 
hoisted,  spinnaker  head  l3'ing  ready  to  be  fastened  to  either 
as  required,  the  other  topping  lift  remaining  in  its  place. 

The  jackstay  is  rigged  on  the  outside  of  the  sail,  so  that 
when  sail  is  lowered  the  triangular  part  at  boom,  Y  Z,  pre- 
vents the  sail  from  flopping  over  the  deck  on  the  one  side, 
while  the  nast  prevents  it  on  the  other.  X  is  a  brass  rod  at 
the  masthead  for  a  fly.  There  are  several  plans  by  which 
the  sail  can  be  reefed  "instantaneously."  The  one  here 
shown  the  writer  has  found  to  work  the  best.  Ltt  us  start 
at  the  back  and  follow  the  first  reef  all  round.  One  end  of 
the  cord  is  secured  at  the  back,  and  is  rove  through  brass 
rings  -,^j  diameter  sewn  on  sail  where  shown,  tlien  through 
block  at  luff  of  first  batten,  then  through  block  in  line  of 
mast,  then  down  to  a  deadeye  at  mast  fcot,  then  to  cleat 
wherever  handiest  for  owner.  Then  the  after  part  has  to  be 
looked  to.  Rig  cord  in  the  same  way,  starting  at  the  clew 
and  cleat  on  C  at  boom.  Thi.s  gives  a  very  handy  plan  for 
reefing  quickly  if  caught  in  a  squall  while  racing.  When 
the  squall  has  passed  slack  out  reef  cords  and  hoist  yard  at 
once.  For  a  good,  deliberate  reef  while  cruising  it  would  he 
well  to  tie  down  reef  points  as  well,  as  the  extra  time  it 
takes  is  not  wasted.  It  is  a  capital  plan  to  have  all  blocks 
for  use  about  the  mast  fastened  to  the  mast  and  not  to  the 
deck,  so  that  when  one  comes  ashore  to  dismantle,  the  mast, 
sail  and  rigging  can  be  removed  and  returned  without  the 
bother  of  alwajs  re-rigiring. 

The  Laloo  was  desi'j;ncd  to  be  sailed  without  a  mizzen. 
though  an  after  sail  is  of  great  service  in  mostly  allweattier. 


Plate  VIII. — Nautilus  Racing  and  Crdisikg  Canoe. 

For  the  drawings  of  this  canoe,  as  well  r.s  the  two  follow- 
ing ones,  and  the  canoe  yawls,  we  are  indebted  to  "Yacht 
and  Bo;it  Sailing."  This  canoe  was  designed  by  Mr.  Baden- 
Powell,  for  open  water  cruising  and  for  racing  under  the 
R.C.C.  rules.  The  main  objects  in  view  were  sleeping  room, 
good  sailing  lines  and  light  draft.    Centerboard  of  plate-iron, 


146 


DESCRIPTION  OF  PLATES. 


83  lbs.     Length,  14ft. ;  beam,  33in. ;  depth  arnidship,  14iin.; 

sheer  at  bow,  7|ia. ;  do.  at  stern,  5|^in. ;  draft,  7ia  ;  keel,  lin. 

AA.— Mast  tubes.  BB-Headleclges.  C—Centei board.  D— Fore 
b  Ikhead,  with  door.  E— Drain  pipes  to  compartment.  F— Footyoke. 
G— Deekyoke.  H  -Handle  of  centerboard.  I— Hauling  ud  gear  of 
centerboard.  J— Rack  for  cleats.  K— Fore  hatch.  L— After  hatch. 
M— Seat  for  paddling.  N— After  bulkhead,  with  door.  O— Floor 
boards.   P— Backboard  for  paddling.    S— Sheer  for  rudder  tricingline. 


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The  sails  are  two  balance  lugs  of  95  and  35sq,  ft. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING. 


147 


Plate  IX. — Pearl  Cruising  Canoe. 
The  family  of  Pearls,  designed  by  Mr.  E.  B.  Tredwen, 
R.C.C.,  numbers  nine  different  models,  the  design  in  the  plate 
being  No.  3.  She  is  designed  for  open  water  cruising  as  well 
as  racing.  Dimensions:  Length,  15ft. ;  beam,  31J^in. ;  depth 
amidships  llin  ;  sheer  at  bow,  5in. ;  sheer  at  stern,  3in. 


'  Half  Breadths. 

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148 


DESCRIPTION  OF  PLATES. 


Plate  X.— Pearl  Canoe  No.  6. 
This  canoe  was  designed  to  compete  not  only  with  canoes, 
but  in  the  races  of  the  Thames  gigs,  boats  much  larger  than 
canoes,  and  she  has  been  remarkably  successful  both  "witli 
thim  and  her  own  class.  She  is  fitted  with  two  centerboards 
of  Muntz  metal,  the  forward  one  of  68  pounds,  being  |in. 
thick.  The  sail  carried  is  lOoft.  in  mainsail,  and  about  40rt. 
in  mizz  n,  the  latter  being  fitted  to  reef,  by  rolling  on  the 
boom.  Lenath  14ft.,  beam  33in.,  depth  amidships,  14in., 
sheer  at  bow  Tin.,  at  stern  4in. 


Half  Breadths.   Heights. 


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AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING. 


149 


Plate  XI.— American  CKDisiNa  Canoe. 

This  canoe  was  designed  in  1883  by  Mr.  W.  P.  Stephens, 
of  the  New  York  C.  C,  for  general  cruising  and  racing. 


Halp-Breadthe. 

:   Deck. 

1 

6in. 

4in. 

2in. 

'  Pt.  In. 

Ft.  In. 

Ft.  In. 

Ft.  In. 

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To  make  the  same  lines  answer  for  a  15x30  canoe,  the  moolds, 
six  in  number,  may  be  spaced  25'in.  apart  instead  of  24in..  aa 
showTi.  An  extra  mould  at  each  end,  Nos.  1  and  13,  will  be  useful 
in  building. 

The  movable  bulkhead  is  placed  8ft.  Sin.  from  the 
bow,  and  shapes  aft,  giving  an  easier  position  to  the 
body  than  when  vertical.  The  after  bulkhead  is  placed 
9ft.  9in.  from  the  bow,  and  is  fitted  so  as  to  be  water- 
tight up  to  the  top  of  the  coaming,  which  runs  aft  15in. 
further,  the  bulkhead  projecting -|\'in.,  or  the  thickness 
of  the  hatches,  above  the  coaming.  On  the  top  of  this 
bulkhead  is  screwed  a  strip  of  flat  brass  d,  ;fVin.  thick 
(see  Plate  XVIII.)  and  wide  enough  to  project  fin.  on 
each  side  of  tlie  latter;  thus,  if  the  bulkhead  is  ^in.  thick, 
the  brass  should  be  liin.  The  cuddy  hatch  &  is  ,'^in. 
thick,  flat,  with  no  crown,  and  extends  from  the  fore  side 
of  the  bulkhead  to  the  shifting  bulkhead,  and  may  pro- 
ject a  little  over  the  latter.     In  width  it  extends  |in.  over 


150  DESCRIPTION  OF  PLATES. 

the  coaming  on  each  side,  allowing  side  pieces  iin.  thick  to 
be  nailed  to  it,  the  latter  extending  down  to  the  deck.  The 
grain  should  run  athwartship,  and  the  hatch  may  be 
strengthened  by  a  batten  screwed  to  the  under  side,  running 
fore  and  aft.  The  after  hatch  a  is  made  in  a  similar  man- 
ner, but  extends  aft  of  the  well  fin.,  with  a  piece  across  the- 
end  as  well  as  on  the  sides.  The  side  pieces  of  both  hatches 
meet  at  Ihe  joint  shown. 

*Both  hatches  turn  on  flat  brass  hinges  with  brass  pins, 
which  are  riveted  to  th«  brass  strip,  an  1  the  hatches  may  be 
fastened  with  hooks  and  screweyes  on  deck,  or  with  hasps 
and  padlocks.  The  cuddy  hatch  is  opened  by  turning  it  aft, 
while  the  after  one  turns  forward,  each  when  open  lying  flat 
on  top  of  the  other.  The  side  pieces,  reaching  to  the  deck, 
keep  out  any  spray  or  waves,  and  the  brass  strip,  if  not  per- 
fectly water-light,  may  be  made  so  by  a  strip  of  rubber 
cloth  Sin.  wide  tacked  to  both  hatches,  covering  the  strip 
and  its  joints.  Of  course  neither  of  these  ha'ches  wiil  keep 
out  all  water  when  capsized,  but  they  will  be  much  dryer 
than  the  ordinary  deck  hatches,  they  cannot  be  lost  or  left 
behind,  the  cuddy  hatch  is  quickly  turned  over  out  of  the 
way,  they  are  easily  opened  and  shut  and  cannot  drop  off 
and  allow  the  contents  to  fall  out  if  capsized,  while  being 
flat,  they  can  be  made  very  strong  and  will  not  warp  as  all 
curved  hatches  do. 

Now  to  make  the  after  one  water  tiuht.  The  coaming 
inside  will  be  probably  2|in.  desp  or  a  little  more,  and 
around  its  lower  edge,  as  well  as  across  the  bulkhead,  a 
beading  made  of  four  strips  g,  g,  each  |in.  square,  is  screwed 
strongly,  and  on  this  beading  is  laid  a  small  tube  or  band  of 
soft  rubber.  The  inner  hatch  c  is  a  board  fin.  thick,  with 
two  battens  on  the  under  side  to  prevent  warping,  and  is 
large  enough  to  fit  neatly  inside  the  coaming,  resting  on  the 
rubber  tube  or  washer.  To  hold  this  hatch  down,  a  cross 
beam  e  is  used,  of  oak  lin.  square  at  the  middle,  \i  here  a 
brass  thumbscrew /passes  through,  and  lin.  wide  by  |^in. 
thick  at  the  ends.  It  is  lin.  longer  than  the  distance  between 
the  coaming  to  the  bulkhead.     This  beam  slips  into  two 

*  In  fitting  this  arrangement  the  hinges  and  rubber  have  teen 
discarded  as  unnecessary. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  161 

notches,  one  in  bulkhead,  and  one  in  the  coaming  at  after  end 
of  well,  at  such  a  height  that  it  can  be  slipped  in  freely, 
when  the  hatch  c  is  in  place,  when  a  couple  of  turns  of  the 
thumbscrew  /  brings  the  hatch  down  firmly  on  the  rubber. 
As  this  irmer  hatch  is  a  flat  board,  and  is  completely  pro- 
tected from  sun  and  water,  it  cannot  warp  aa.exposed  hatches 
do,  and  it  is  so  covered  by  the  outer  hatch,  that  no  water 
can  reach  it  unless  the  boat  has  her  masts  level  with  the 
water.  As  for  simplicity,  in  spite  of  the  long  explanation  it 
is  quickly  worked,  the  outer  hatch  is  unhooked  and  turned 
over,  making  a  flat  table  on  which  to  lay  articles  in  packing, 
the  thumbscrew  is  turned  twice,  the  crossbeam  and  hatch 
lifted  out,  and  all  is  open.  The  thumbscrew  may  run  into  a 
socket  in  the  hatch,  thus  attaching  the  latter  and  the  beam, 
and  a  lanyard  made  fast  inside,  but  long  enough  to  allow 
the  hatch  to  be  lifted  off,  will  prevent  either  being  lost,  so 
that  there  will  be  no  detached  parts. 

The  objection  may  be  made  that  the  flat  hatch  is  less  grace- 
ful than  the  curved  one,  but  on  the  other  hand  it  can  be 
much  stronger,  it  will  not  warp,  and  will  certainly  be  dryer, 
while  folding  flat  on  top,  it  takes  little  room  when  opened. 
If  a  tiller  is  used,  it  will  fit  iu  a  socket  like  the  whiffietree 
fastening  and  not  over  a  pia.  The  fore  end  of  the  cuddy 
hatch  should  have  a  small  beading  to  prevent  any  water  run- 
ning into  the  well.  Plate  XVIII.  shows  a  view  from  above, 
with  the  outer  after  hatch  opened,  side  views  with  the  same 
opened  and  closed,  and  a  vertical  section  through  the  center, 
with  details  of  beam  and  thumbscrew  and  brass-covered 
joint. 

"With  this  division  of  the  boat,  the  after  end  will  be 
devoted  to  bedding,  extra  clothing  and  articles  which  must 
be  kept  dry,  usually  the  lighter  portion  of  the  load,  while 
forward  will  be  stowed  the  mess  chest,  cooking  traps,  and 
heavier  articles  until  a  proper  trim  is  obtained. 

The  masts  are  stepped  according  to  the  latest  practice  of 
canoeists,  and  if  it  were  not  for  the  necessity  of  sometimes 
unstepping  the  mainmast  while  afloat,  it  would  be  better  to 
place  it  9in.  further  forward,  or  loin,  from  the  bow,  and  for 


152  DESCRIPTION  OF  PLATES. 

racing  it  should  be  so  placed.  Both  tubes  are  shown  of  the 
same  size,  2in.  at  deck  and  1^  at  bottom,  so  that  the  mizzen 
may  be  used  forward  in  high  wmds.  The  rudder  may  be 
cf  the  new  drop  form,  or  of  fin.  mahogany,  and  will 
curve  quickly  aft  from  the  waterline,  so  that  it  will  not  re- 
tain weeds  or  lines  which  may  drift  imder  it. 

The  forward  bulkhead  is  not  shown,  as  canoeists  now 
differ  60  much  in  their  ideas  as  to  its  proper  place.  It  may 
be  so  placed  as  to  leave  7ft.  between  it  and  tlie  after  bulk- 
head, being  made  as  tight  as  possible,  or  it  may  be  omitted 
entirely,  air  tanks  being  used  instead. 

The  rig  for  cruising  will  be  about  50  and  20  ft.,  and  for 
racing,  70ft.  in  the  mainsail  and  about  25  in  mizzen. 

The  following  construction  is  recommended  as  being  the 
best,  and  if  properly  fastened  will  be  strong  and  light.  Stem  and 
stern,  hackmatack  knees  with  proper  grain  lin.  thick  (sided); 
keel  of  white  oak  fin.  thick  (iin.  outside,  ^in.  for  rabbet, 
and  ^m.  inside);  width  at  center  2in.  outside  and  Sin.  inside. 
No  keel  batten  will  be  needed,  the  entire  rabbet  being 
worked  in  the  keel.  The  planking  will  be  of  clear  white 
cedar  Jin.  thick,  laid  with  |in.  lap,  the  lands  outside  being 
rounded  down  at  the  ends.  The  upper  streak,  shown  in 
the  plans,  will  be  of  mahogany,  fin.  thick,  and  should  be  of 
strong,  tough  wood.  This  streak  will  be  rabbeted  on  its 
lower  edge,  lapping  fin.  over  the  streak  below.  The  ribs 
will  be  of  white  oak  stave  timber  ixfin.,  spaced  Sin.  apart, 
each  running  across  from  gunwale  to  gunwale,  except  at  the 
extreme  ends  and  abreast  the  centerboard  trunk.  They  are 
fastened  with  copper  nails  cut  off  and  riveted  over  burrs, 
not  copper  tacks,  except  at  the  extreme  ends.  The  weakest 
point  of  a  canoe,  especially  those  with  flat  keels,  is  the  mid- 
dle of  the  bottom,  which  in  this  boat  is  stiffened  by  the  lloor 
ledges  s  s,  Plate  TI.  These,  which  are  placed  on  each  alternate 
rib,  are  of  oak,  or  better,  hackmatack  fin,  thick,  and  deep 
enough  to  raise  the  floor  2  or  2iin.  They  will  of  course  be 
straight  on  top,  where  the  floor  lies,  and  will  fit  the  rib  on 
the  lower  side.  They  are  fastened  with  long,  slim  copper 
nails,  through  the  laps  and  ribs,  riveted  on  the  upper  side 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  158 

of  the  ledge.  This  construction  is  both  stronger  and  lighter 
than  the  use  of  a  thicker  keel.  The  decks  will  be  of 
mahogany  i^in.  thick,  and  will  be  screwed  to  the  upper  edge 
of  the  gunwale,  which  takes  the  place  of  the  inner  wale  and 
beading,  making  a  strong,  light  top.  The  general  arrange- 
ment of  deck  frame  and  coaming  has  been  fully  described  on 
pages  52-53. 

In  finishing  the  canoe  the  inside  below  decks  is  painted 
inside  of  well,  and  entire  outside  is  varnished,  and  a  gold 
stripe -fiu.  wide  is  laid  along  the  mahogany  upper  streak  ^in. 
from  the  lower  edge.  This  gold  stripe  should  be  slightly  below 
the  surface  of  the  streak,  to  protect  it,  a  "cove"  or  groove 
being  ploughed  to  receive  it  (  Plate  XVI.). 


Plate  XII. — T.vxdem  Caitoe. 

Perhaps  no  boat  taxes  more  severely  the  skill  of  the  de- 
signer than  a  modern  canoe,  as  there  are  so  many  conflicting 
qualities  to  combine  in  one  harmonious  whole,  within  very 
narrow  limits  of  size,  weight  and  draft,  but  difficult  as  the 
task  is  with  a  single  canoe,  it  is  still  harder  with  a  double 
boat,  and  the  best  that  can  be  expected  is  a  compromise, 
sacrificing  many  desirable  points  to  others  still  more  impor- 
tant. Such  a  canoe  should  have,  first,  sufficient  displace- 
ment to  float  easily  two  men  of  average  weight  with  their 
stores;  secondly,  room  for  both  men  to  sit  in  comfort,  allow- 
ing room  to  move  around  and  stretch  the  legs;  third,  room 
for  their  stores  and  clothing;  fourth,  a  foot  steering  gear  by 
which  either  can  steer.  Such  a  boat  is  usually  intended  also 
to  be  paddled  by  one  man,  if  required,  to  accomplish  which 
no  greater  length  is  admissible  than  16ft,  both  on  account 
of  handiness  and  increased  weight. 

If  the  boat  is  intended  for  a  long  cruise,  where  much  lug- 
gage must  be  carried,  a  length  of  17ft.  with  a  beam  of  33irL 
would  be  better,  but  the  same  plans  may  be  used,  laying 
down  the  sections  25in.  opart  in  the  working  drawing, 
and  placing  the  moulds  at  the  same  distance.  To  increase 
the  beam  the  boat  may  be  made  iin.  deeper  amidships, 
the  heights  at  stem  and  stern  being  the  same;  then  when 


154 


JDESCRIPTIOlf  OF  PLATES. 


planked  and  timbered,  but  "before  putting  in  bulkheads  or 
deck  beams,  the  sides  may  be  sprung  apart  two  inches  with- 
out affectins:  the  fairness  of  the  lines. 


a. 

Mainmast  tube. 

Ti. 

Floorboards. 

h. 

Fore  bulkhead. 

i. 

Middle  hatch. 

c. 

Slides  for  steering  geai. 

k. 

After  hatch. 

d. 

Fore  hatch. 

I. 

Door  in  bulkhead- 

e  e 

Backboards. 

m 

After  bulkhead. 

/• 

Sliding  hatch. 

n. 

Mizzen  mast  tubes. 

9- 

Footgear  for  after  man. 

o. 

Eudder  lines. 

TABLE  OF  OFFSETS. 


I  Heights 
'  inches. 


I.. 
U 

in 

IV. 

v.. 

VI. 


12 

11 

13^ 


Half  Breadths. 


Deck. 


14 
15 
15 
14 


No.l. 

w.x. 


L.W.L. 


12 


No.  H. 
W.  Lu 


12^ 

13 

10 


Diag.  l.'Diag.  2. 


15 
135| 


13U 
13^ 
12M 

m 


Distance  from  fore  side  of  stem: 
To  mainmast,  2ft.  91n. 
Fore  bulkhead,  3ft. 
Fore  end  cf  well,  5ft. 
Sliding  bulkhead,  8ft. 


To  Mizzen  bulkhead,  13ft. 
6in. 
After  bulkhead,  12ft. 
After  bulkhead,  12ft. 


Sections  27iin.  centers,  'waterlines  Sin.  apart,  heights 
measured  from  rabbet  line  at  midships,  planking  Jin.  lap  of 
planks  fin.,  timbers  -,\'X|in.,  spaced  6in.,  keel,  stem  and  stern 
sided  lin.,  keelson  or  keel  batten  -,^yx2in.,  deck  :J^in. 

A  yoke  is  provided  on  the  af  terside  of  the  sliding  bulkhead, 
so  that  the  after  man  may  steer,  while  another  style  of  foot 
gear,  shown  in  the  body  plan,  is  fitted  to  the  slides  forward, 
which  can  be  used  either  by  the  forward  man  or  by  a  man 
who  is  sailing  alone.  In  the  latter  case  the  hatch  i  is 
removed  and  stowed  below,  the  bulkhead  shifted  aft  to  the 
fore  edge  of  hatch  k,  and  the  opening  at  after  end  of  the  well 
closed  with  a  canvas  cover.  This  cover  is  made  of  duck, 
painted,  and  fits  down  over  the  coaming  and  the  edge  of  the 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  155 

hatcb.  Around  its  lower  edge  are  hooks,  such  as  are  used 
on  shoes  for  lacin<r,  and  a  cord  is  run  through  them  and  over 
screwheads  on  the  coaming,  holding  the  cover  tightly  down. 
A  door  in  the  after  bulkhead  gives  room  there  for  storage,  the 
forward  compartment  being  entirely  closed. 


Plate  XUI. — Saii.  Plan  op  Tandem  Canoe. 
This  sail  plan  of  the  double  canoe  is  dnsisned  for  cruising 
rather  than  racing.     The  area  of  the  mainsail  is  63ft.,  reef- 
ing down  to  47  and  34ft.,  and  the  mizzen  is  23ft.,  reefing  to 
14ft. 

SPARS. 

Mainmast^Deck  to  truck,  10ft.  Mizzenmast— Deck  to  truck,  6ft. 

Diam.  at  deck,  aj^in.  Diam.  at  deck,  IJ^in. 

Diam.  at  truck,  l^^in.  Diam.  at  truck,  %in. 

Rak3  J^in.  to  1ft.  Rake  %Sn.  to  Ifc. 

Main  boom  9ft. ;  diam.  IJ^in.  Mizzen  boom  5ft.  4in. ;  diam.  lJ4'n- 

Main  yai-d  7ft. ;  diam.  ]}4in.  IMizz'^n  yard  4ft.  ?in. :  diam.  l^in. 

Main  battens,  oval,  %x\\i\xi.  Mizzen  battens,  oval.  56xlln. 

SAILS. 

Mainsail— Head,  7ft.  Mizzen— Head,  4ft.  2in. 

Foot,  Oft.  Foot,  5ft.  4in. 

Luff,  6ft.  6in.  Luff.  4ft. 

Leach,  10ft.  21n.  Leach,  6ft.  lln. 

Tack  to  peak,  12ft.  Tack  to  peak,  7ft.  2m. 

Clevr  to  throat,  10ft.  6in.  Clew  to  throat,  6ft.  3in. 

a  a.     Main  tack.  /.       Mizzen  halliard. 

b  b.     Main  halliard.  o.       Mizzen  tack. 

ccc.  Parrels.  g.       Mizzen  sheet. 

d.  Main  slieet  slin^.  n.  n.  Mizzen  toppinglift. 

e.  Main  sheet.  in.      Maia  toppingllft. 

1 1.      Main  jackstay. 

The  main  tack  is  led  down  through  a  block  on  the  after 
side  of  a  brass  spider  band  that  encircles  the  mast,  and  is 
belayed  on  the  port  side  nearly  amidships.  The  main  hal- 
liard leads  down  through  a  cheek  block  on  the  starboard 
side  of  the  spider  band,  and  belays  on  a  cleat  on  starboard 
side  of  well,  wliile  the  downhaul  leads  through  a  similar 
block  on  the  port  side  of  mast  to  port  side  of  well.  The  top- 
pinglift  is  in  two  parts,  fast  to  the  masthead,  and  leads  down 
on  both  sides  of  the  sail,  and  through  a  bullseye  lashed  on 
the  underside  of  the  boom.    The  jackstay  is  also  made  fast 


1 56  DESCRIPTION  OF  PL  A  TES. 

at  the  masthead,  leads  down  the  port  side  outside  of  the  sail, 
and  is  lashed  to  the  mast  just  above  the  boom.  In  lowering 
or  setting  the  sail,  it  lies  in  the  toppinglift  and  jackstay, 
■which  prevent  its  falling  overboard. 

The  mizzen  tack  leads  direct  to  a  cleat  on  the  deck  near 
the  mast,  and  the  halliard  leads  through  a  single  block 
lashed  to  the  mast,  and  is  belayed  to  a  cleat  near  the  after 
end  of  the  well  on  the  starboard  side.  The  mizzen  sheet 
leads  to  a  cleat  on  the  coaming  on  the  port  side  of  the  well. 
The  mizzen  toppinglift  is  doubled  (on  both  sides  of  the  sail), 
and  also  terminates  in  crowfeet  on  the  lower  ends.  The 
mizzen  may  be  lowered  and  allowed  to  hang  in  it. 


Plate  XIV. — Canvas  Canoe. 
Details  of  canvas  canoe  building  are  given  on  pages  111-114. 


Plate  XY. — Kowboat. 
This  boat  is  of  the  ordinary  type  of  pleasure  boat  for  row- 
ing and  fishing  on  lakes  and  rivers.     Full  details  are  given 
on  pages  115-122. 


Plate  XYI. — Rowing  and  Sailing  Boat. 

This  boat  was  designed  for  sailing  in  a  small  bay,  where 
it  frequently  happens  that  after  sailing  some  distance  the 
wind  falls  and  it  is  necessary  to  row  home,  and  it  was  desired 
to  keep  her  in  a  boathouse  in  order  that  she  might  be  always 
dry  and  ready  for  use  when  required. 

Her  length  over  all  is  13ft.,  beam  4ft.,  draft  aft  when 
loaded  lOiu.,  freeboard  1ft.,  at  bow  1ft.  Sin. ,  at  stern  1ft.  4in. 
Owing  to  her  depth,  the  centerboard,  which  is  rather  long, 
is  entirely  under  the  two  thwarts,  and  as  much  out  of  the 
way  as  it  can  well  be.  It  is  of  oak  bolted  through  with  Jin. 
iron,  and  is  fitted  with  a  lifting  rod  of  -fin.  brass,  with  a 
handle  at  the  top.  This  rod  is  £0  hinged  as  to  turn  down  on 
top  of  the  trunk  when  the  board  is  up,  being  held  by  a  but- 
ton. The  mast  is  stepped  in  a  tabernacle  so  as  to  be  easily 
removed  for  rowing.  This  tabernacle  is  made  of  two  pieces 
of  oak  3x3iin.  at  deck,  above  which  they  project  l-Jin.    At 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  157 

the  bottom  they  are  secured  to  au  oak  mast  step,  in  which 
is  a  mortise  for  the  heei  of  the  mast,  and  at  deck  they  are 
let  into  a  piece  of  board  Sin.  wide,  running  athwartship,  and 
screwed  firmly  to  each  gunwale.  From  the  mast  to  the  bow 
a  deck  of  Jin.  mahogany  is  laid  which,  with  its  framing, 
holds  the  tabernacle  firmly,  and  prevents  any  straining  of 
the  boat.  The  forward  side  of  the  tabernacle  is  closed  from 
the  step  up  to  within  8in.  of  the  deck,  so  that  the  mast  will 
not  slip  forward  when  being  stepped.  The  heel  is  slipped 
into  the  tabernacle,  the  mast  raised  up,  falling  into  the  step, 
and  a  brass  catch,  pivoted  at  one  end,  is  thrown  across  the 
after  side  at  deck  and  fastened  with  a  turn  of  the  thumb  nut 
shown.  The  sail  is  a  balance  \ug,  fitted  with  one  batten: 
Foot,  13ft. ;  head.  Oft.  6in. ;  luff,  6ft. ;  leach,  14ft.  Gin. ;  tack 
to  peak,  15ft. ;  clew  to  throat,  13ft.  3in. ;  batten  above  boom 
— 2ft.  9in.  on  luflf,  3ft.  on  leach;  mast  at  deck.  Sin. ;  at  head, 
l|iD. ;  mast,  heel  to  truck,  13ft.  Sin. 

The  mast  is  irquare  in  the  tabernacle,  above  which  it  is 
round.  The  head  of  the  sail  is  cut  with  a  round  of  9in.,  the 
yard  being  bent  to  fit  it.  The  sail  is  hoisted  by  a  halliard 
running  through  a  strap  on  the  yard  just  aft  the  mast,  and 
hooking  into  a  similar  strap  forward  of  the  mast.  Below  it 
is  led  through  a  brass  suatch  block  on  the  heel  of  the  mast, 
and  aft  to  a  cleat  on  the  trunk,  within  reach  of  the  helmsman. 
The  tack  is  spliced  to  the  boom  just  forward  of  mast,  leads 
through  a  bullseye  lashed  to  boom  abaft  the  mast,  and  down 
to  a  cleat  on  the  after  side  of  ihe  mast.  The  sail  may  be 
easily  taken  from  the  mast  and  stowed,  for  rowing,  which 
cannot  be  done  with  a  boom  and  gaff  sail.  The  stem,  stern 
and  keel  are  of  white  oak,  the  former  two  sided  IJin.,  the 
latter  sided  4in.  outside  and  moulded  lin.  The  planking  is 
of  white  cedar,  lapstreak,  i^tin.  thick,  the  upper  streak  being 
of  fin.  mahogany.  The  ribs  are  fx^in.,  spaced  9in.,  being 
jogged  down  to  the  plank  and  copper  riveted,  the  thwarts 
are  of  fin.  mahogany;  rudder  15in.  wide,  of  lin.  mahogany, 
fitted  with  tiller  and  yoke.  The  gunwales,  of  oak,  are 
Ixl^in.  at  midships  and  Ixfin.  at  ends.  The  sides  of  the 
trunk,  which  is  covered  on  top,  are  of  dry  white  pine,  liin. 


;58 


DESCRIPTION  OF  PLATES. 


at  bottom  and  fin.  at  top.  They  are  set  flat  on  the  keel,  a 
strip  of  canton  flannel  well  painted  being  laid  between,  and 
fastened  with  fin.  brass  screws  from  outside  of  keel.  The 
ballast  is  of  gravel,  in  30-pound  canvas  bags. 


!2!    iz!    tr" 


Hal£  Breadths.  I      Depths. 


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P  P  B 

p.  .  a  ^ 

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to 

AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  159 

Plate  XVIL — Mohican  Sail— Steerinq  Gear. 

The  members  of  the  Mohican  C.  C,  of  Albany,  have 
found  the  balance  luj?  sail  unsuiled  to  their  work,  river  sail- 
ing and  cruisinw,  and  have  labored  for  *  ome  time  to  tind 
something  better,  the  result  being  the  sail  now  described, 
devised  by  Cora.  Oliver.  This  sail  resembles  somewhat  the 
sail  of  the  Alatantis,  as  made  and  used  by  Mr.  S.  R.  Stod- 
dard, but  it  was  fitted  by  Com.  Oliver  without  any  knowl- 
edge of  the  Stoddard  sail,  from  which,  however,  the  idea  of 
the  reefing  gear  was  afterwards  taken. 

In  shape  the  sail  is  an  ordinary  balance  lug,  cut  off  at  the 
first  reef,  thus  leaving  a  short  luff,  and  one  batten  above  the 
boom.  The  sail  is  hoisted  by  a  halliard  d,  which  is  prac- 
tically continuous  with  the  downhaul  e.  The  halliard  is 
made  fast  to  a  brass  ring  a  on  the  mast,  thence  it  leads 
through  a  snatch  block  c  on  the  yard,  through  a  block  b  on 
masthead,  thence  through  a  block  in  at  deck,  and  returns 
through  a  block ^■.  ending  in  a  brass  hook.  The  downhaul  e 
is  fast  to  the  batten  i,  runs  down  through  rincs  on  the  sail  to 
brass  ring  n,  lashed  to  the  mast.  The  two  reef  lines//  are 
double,  one  on  each  side  of  the  sail,  running  through  block 
on  the  boom,  and  uniting  in  a  single  line,  which  is  also  part 
of  e,  so  that  the  three  lines  from  batten  to  boom  at  middle, 
fore  and  after  ends  really  run  through  n,  as  a  single  line,  the 
small  ring  in  the  bight,  into  which  the  halliard  hooks,  only 
serving  to  equalize  the  pull. 

The  boom  is  held  to  the  mast  by  a  brass  jaw  g,  above  and 
below  which  are  leather  collars  C  C,  which  prevent  the 
boom  rising  or  falling,  and  render  a  tack  line  unnecessary. 
A  parrel  may  be  used  on  the  batten,  or  a  jaw  h.  The  ten- 
sion on  the  halliard  and  reef  lines  is  obtained  by  the  line  on 
block  j,  by  which  all  is  hauled  taut. 

To  set  the  sail  the  jaws  are  placed  around  the  mast  ig 
being  between  the  collars  C  C),  the  bight  of  the  halliard, 
next  the  ring  is  slipped  into  the  snatch  block  c,  the  down- 
haul  and  reef  lines  c  f  are  passed  through  ring  n,  and  the 
end  of  the  halliard  hooked  into  the  ring.    Now  the  block 


160  DESCRIPTION  OF  PLATES. 

j  is  drawn  aft  and  its  line  belayed,  putting  a  tension  on  the 
halliard  and  downhaul.  The  sail  is  now  ready  to  hoist.  It 
will  be  seen  that  the  halliard,  with  block  m,  always  remairs 
on  the  mast;  in  stowing  the  latter  the  block  ^'  is  cast  off, 
leaving  the  halliard  free.  To  take  in  a  reef,  that  part  of  the 
halliard  to  which  e  and /are  attached  is  hauled  aft,  thiis 
slacking  away  the  other  part,  and  at  the  same  time  taking  in 
the  reef  neatly,  with  no  ends  to  coil  away  or  belay.  It  is 
found  in  practice  that  the  halliard  will  slip  a  little,  letting 
the  sail  down.  To  prevent  this  a  little  brass  cam  clutch,  k, 
is  screwed  to  the  deck,  the  halliard  d  being  slipped  into  it. 
The  roller  will  jam  the  cord  as  it  pulls  forward,  but  a  pull 
aft  will  instantly  release  it. 

Foot 9ft.6in. 

Head 10ft. 

Leach 12ft.  6in. 

Luff 3ft. 

Tack  to  peak 12ft.  Gin. 

Clew  to  throat 9ft.  lOin. 

Total  £irea 65ft. 

Beefed 38J^ft. 

For  description  of  steering  gears,  see  pages  128-138. 


Pl.\te  XVIII. — Canoe  Hatches  akd  Fittings. 
Bee  page  349. 


THE    PROGRESS    OF    CANOEING. 


TN  the  three  years  that  have  passed  since  "Canoe  and 
-^  Boat  Building"  was  first  published,  the  growth  of 
canoeing,  as  well  as  other  forms  of  boat  sailing,  has  been 
very  rapid,  and  the  changes  in  the  craft  have  been  many, 
some  marked  improvements  being  made.  The  principles 
of  building,  treated  in  the  first  part  of  this  book,  are  un- 
altered, and  in  preparing  the  present  edition  the  improve- 
ments in  model,  rig  and  fittings  have  been  described  in 
detail  in  connection  with  the  best  examples  of  the  new 
canoes,  such  as  Lassie,  Pecowsic,  Notus  and  the  two  new 
designs. 

The  year  1886  was  a  most  important  one  in  canoe  racing, 
being  marked  by  the  first  meeting  between  the  "heavy 
ballast"  English  canoes,  sailed  with  crew  below,  and  the 
various  American  models  with  crews  seated  on  deck. 
Canoe  racing  was  reduced  to  a  science  in  England  some 
years  before  it  became  at  all  popular  in  America,  the  re- 
sult being  that  the  British  canoes  were  far  superior  in 
fitting  up  and  mechanical  details  to  the  American  craft. 
As  in  the  case  of  yachting,  the  various  details  of  the 
English  canoes  have  been  used  and  thoroughly  tested  in 
this  country,  with  the  result  of  the  improvement  of  some 
features  and  the  total  rejection  of  others,  the  leading 
canoes  of  the  A.  C.  A.  now  constitutiag  a  distinctly 
marked  national  type.  The  result  of  the  races  sailed  in 
New  York  and  on  the  St.  Lawrence  in  1886  has  been  to 
show  that  both  the  "no  ballast"  canoe  and  the  craft  with 
a  moderate  amount  of  ballast,  say  under  lOOlbs.,  is  much 
faster  than  the  Royal  C.  C.  type  with  upward  of  OOOlbs. 
One  reason  for  the  poor  performance  of  the  latter  in 


162  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

American  waters  appears  to  be  that  the  type  was  devel- 
oped on  a  narrow  river  and  a  small  pond,  where  the  wind 
is  very  puffy  and  unsteady;  and  further,  the  courses  are 
very  short.  To  meet  these  requirements,  the  canoes  have 
relied  on  a  large  amount  of  ballast  to  carry  a  lofty  sail, 
necessary  to  utilize  the  wind  between  the  banks  and  to 
make  the  canoe  safe  in  the  flawy  breezes,  while  owing  to 
the  many  turns  required  when  a  number  of  rounds  of  a 
short  course  have  to  be  made,  the  maneuvering  powers 
of  the  boats  were  developed  to  the  fullest  extent,  in  fact, 
so  far  as  to  seriously  impair  the  running  and  reacliing. 
No  better  example  of  this  can  be  found  than  the  wonder- 
ful working  of  the  Nautilus  in  Mr.  Baden-Powell's  hands; 
with  her  weight  and  rcckered  bottom  she  turned  within 
her  own  length,  and  was  as  completely  under  the  control 
of  her  owner  as  a  bicycle  would  be.  In  marked  contrast 
to  this  were  some  of  the  American  canoes,  which,  though 
far  faster  off  the  wind,  or  even  when  on  a  long  leg  to 
windward,  were  slow  and  uncertain  in  tacking  and  ma- 
neuvering generally. 

Until  they  were  defeated  at  the  A.  C.  A.  meet  of  1886,  the 
English  canoeists  held  tenaciously  to  the  inside  position, 
lying  down  in  the  beat,  and  thus  were  compelled  to  rely 
on  lead  for  the  necessary  stability,  but  while  in  America 
both  Nautilus  and  Pearl  were  sailed  from  the  deck  with 
the  reduction  of  about  loOlbs.  of  ballast,  and  in  both 
cases  the  improvement  in  speed  was  most  noticeable:  in 
fact  if  the  two  had  been  well  sailed  from  the  first  in  the 
deck  position,  with  little  ballast  besides  the  board,  they 
would  have  made  a  very  much  better  showing  in  the 
International  races.  So  far  as  canoes  are  concerned,  it  is 
certain  that  the  day  of  heavy  ballast  and  displacement  is 
past,  and  it  is  equally  certain  that  if  the  value  of  the  deck 
position  had  been  understood  a  few  years  since  in  Eng- 
land and  the  races  been  sailed  over  more  open  courses 
than  the  Thames  and  Hendon  Lake,  the  "heavy  ballast" 
canoe  of  the  Royal  C.  C.  would  never  have  come  into 
existence.    Since  their  return  both  Mr.  Baden-Powell,  of 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  163 

the  Nautilus,  and  Mr.  Stewart,  of  the  Pearl,  have  designed 
and  sailed  with  succjess  canoes  of  the  American  type, 
and  with  the  growth  of  canoe  racing  tliroughout  Great 
Britain  that  will  follow  the  success  of  the  newly  organ- 
ized British  Canoe  Association,  the  canoes  are  likely  to 
approach  that  type  and  the  early  English  canoes  of  a 
dozen  years  ago. 

The  question  of  no  ballast  vs.  moderate  ballast  is  by  no 
means  so  conclusively  settled,  and  though  the  "no  ballast" 
canoes  have  won  the  majority  of  races  in  the  past  two 
seasons,  there  is  still  reason  to  believe  that  a  moderate 
amount  of  ballast  is  desirable,  perhaps  part  of  it  being  in 
the  form  of  a  centerboard  of  401bs.  or  under.  The  ordi- 
nary canoe  is  designed  to  displace  besides  her  hull,  spars, 
sails  and  crew,  the  stores  and  outfit  for  a  cruise,  a  weight 
of  about  lOOlbs.  This  weight  is  in  a  clumsy  and  bulky 
form,  much  of  it  stowed  comparatively  high,  and  no 
man  would  carry  it  simply  as  ballast  for  racing,  but  his 
canoe  is  supposed  to  cail  at  her  best  when  trimmed  with 
this  load  for  cruising;  no.v  when  racing,  with  larger 
sails,  it  would  seem  but  proper  that  the  disj)lacement, 
freeboard  and  load  waterline  should  be  kept  as  before, 
loose  and  clumsy  ballast  such  as  blankets  and  provisions 
being  replaced  by  shot  bags  beneath  the  floor.  No  other 
class  of  vessel  is  expected  to  sail  exactly  as  well  under 
two  very  different  conditions,  and  it  is  not  clear  why  a 
canoe  should  do  so.  The  addition  of  lOOlbs.  of  ballast 
does  not  necessitate  appreciably  fuller  lines,  the  model 
may  be  as  sharp  and  clean  cut  as  in  any  of  the  "no  bal- 
last" canoes,  and  though  in  the  past  the  idea  of  lead  bal- 
last has  to  a  great  extent  been  associated  with  bulk  and 
full  lines,  there  is  still  a  wide  field  for  the  Class  B  canoe- 
ist, especially  on  open  waters,  to  study  and  experiment 
in  before  giving  his  order  for  a  Pecowsic. 

Looking  at  the  question  of  model,  the  examples  given 
cover  a  wide  range,  from  the  light  Pecowsic  to  the 
new  design  on  Plates  XXVII.,  XXVIII.  and  XXIX., 
a    canoe  of  over  5001bs.  displacement,  and  yet  of  easy 


164  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

form,  totally  different  from  the  Pearls  and  the  old  Nau- 
tili. The  newest  design,  a  16x29  racing  canoe,  Plate 
XXX.,  is  intended  to  float  a  total  displacement  of  less 
than  2751bs.,  but  the  same  lines  may  be  utilized  in  build- 
ing a  16x80  canoe  with  lin.  more  depth,  an  addition  to 
the  present  sheer,  thus  making  a  very  fast  and  able  canoe 
for  both  racing  and  cruising. 

In  sails,  the  fashion  has  changed  to  the  extent  of  dis- 
carding old  rigs  without  supplying  anything  specially 
good  to  take  theu-  place,  the  endeavor  being  to  get  a  sail 
entirely  abaft  the  mast,  but  at  the  same  time  easily  reefed 
or  lowered.  The  most  successful  effort  in  this  direction 
is  the  rig  shown  in  Plate  XXIX,,  devised  by  Mr.  C.  J. 
Stevens,  New  York  C.  C.  The  sails  used  en  Pecowsic, 
the  invention  of  Mr.  Barney,  have  been  used  by  him  with 
great  success  in  racing;  but  the  general  demand  is  for  a 
rig  that  will  reef  and  lower  In  the  West,  the  sprit  sail 
has  been  tried  on  canoes  with  some  success,  the  sprit 
being  carried  down  and  stepping  en  the  boom  about  4in. 
from  the  mast,  thus  holding  the  boom  down.  The  lateen, 
Mohican  and  balance  lug  are  just  now  in  disfavor,  canoe- 
ists being  engaged  in  various  experiments,  and  it  is  im- 
possible to  say  what  the  outcome  will  be.  A  very  good 
sail  is  shown  on  Plate  XXVI.,  that  of  the  Notus,  a  lower- 
ing leg  of  mutton.  These  rigs,  with  many  details  of 
fitting,  are  fully  described  in  connection  with  the  plates. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  165 

Plates  XIX.  and  XX — Class  A  Canoe  "Lassie." 

The  Lassie  was  designed  as  an  attempt  to  get  good  speed 
clo«e  windward  work,  a  fairly  lisrht  and  small  canoe  to  carry 
a  moderate  amount  of  ballast — always  a  heavy  load  to  han- 


?  —   ^    -?  —  ■* 


die— and  to  be  a  good  cruising  canoe  for  all  but  very  narrow 
and  rapid  waters.  She  has  proved  herself  fast  under  sail  and 
paddle,  easy  to  handle  on  the  water  and  ashore,  amply  large 
enough  for  a  man  of  medium  height  and  weight,  and  needs 
but  7olbs.  of  ballast  at  the  most;  with  all  this  she  is  very 
steady  before  the  wind.  iShe  is  a  Class  A  canoe,  but  allowed 
in  Class  B  races,  and  just  comes  within  the  limits  of  Class 
III  paddling. 

The  dimensions — 15ft.x28in. — and  the  points  arrived  at 
were  given  to  Mr.  Everson,  who  worked  out  the  problem  in 
his  own  way,  and  to  whom  all  credit  for  the  result  is  due. 

Two  flat  brass  plates  were  used  for  the  boards,  placed  as 
shown  in  the  drawing,  as  beingthe  best  for  windward  results 
it  was  thought,  not  overlooking  convenience  at  the  same 
time.  For  cruising  the  after  board  can  be  dispensed  with  and 
the  slot  in  the  keel  plugged.    The  forward  plate  can  be  re- 


IGG 


PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 


moved  and  a  wooden  board  substituted,  thus  saving  about 
201b3.  in  dead  weight.  The  ballast  all  gops  below  the  floor, 
and  is  held  in  by  the  floor  boards  buttoned  down.  It  is  then 
in  the  vi  ry  best  place.  The  canoe  is  steady  before  the  wind 
since  she  draws  more  water  than  the  Sunbeam — unless 
heavily  ballasted — being  narrower.  The  motio'i  from  side 
to  side  is  a  very  easy  one,  quite  unlike  the  quick  roll  of  a 
flat-floored  canoe.  The  manipulation  of  the  two  boards 
takes  time  to  acquire,  so  that  the  maximum  result  can  be 
obtained.  They  largely  decrease  the  work  that  has  to  be 
done  by  the  rudder  in  sini;:le  board  canoes. 

The  sails  made  for  the  Sea  Bee — a  Sunbeam  canoe — were 
used  on  the  Lassie  with  the  best  results.     Mr.  Tredwen,  the 


master  mind  in  England  on  canoe  sailing,  has  warmly  com- 
mended the  short  boom  and  double  head  gear  of  this  main- 
sail. The  drawing  illustrates  it  clearly.  Mast,  boom,  yard 
and  the  two  battens  are  all  of  exactly  the  same  length,  thus 
making  it  an  easy  rig  to  stow  for  the  spread  obtained,  75 -q 
ft.  Very  little  of  the  sail  is  in  front  of  the  mast,  and  the 
yard  peaks  up  well,  both  good  points  for  windward  sailing. 
The  double  purchase  at  the  throat,  single  at  p  -ak,  with  one 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  167 

halliaid,  used  as  a  downhaul  as  well,  allows  great  strain  to 
be  put  on  the  yard  in  hoisting  and  brings  everything  as  taut 
as  fiddle  stiings,  a  flat  sail  resulting.  The  lopping  up  of  the 
boom  shown  in  the  drawing  is  not  quite  true  in  fact,  except 
when  the  sail  is  at  rest,  or  passing  over  the  head  of  the  crew 
as  in  tacking  or  jibing.  At  other  times  the  pull  of  the  sheets 
brings  the  boom  end  much  lower,  by  the  give  of  the  sails, 
halliards  and  mat>t;  so  much  so  in  close-hauled  sailing,  when 
the  canoe  heels  somewhat,  that  it  is  about  parallel-with  the 
plane  of  the  water — the  very  best  position  for  it  to  take. 
The  high-pointed  coaming,  Sin.  camber  to  deck,  narrow 
cockpit  (ISin  )  and  flush  deck  forward  make  the  Lassie  a 
very  dry  boat  at  all  times.     The  dimensions  are: 

Length 16ft. 

Beam,  txtreme 281n. 

Depth  at  gunwale ll^in. 

Sheer    \^°'' ^*°- 

Sheer.. -jgj^j.^ 4Jiin. 

Dead  rise  in  6in lin. 

Crown  of  deck 3in. 

Fore  side  sf  stem  to— 

Mast  tubes, 1ft.  Sin.,  8ft.  Jjjin.,  lift.  }^n. 

Fore  trunk,  fore  end 8ft.  Sin. 

Fore  trunk,  after  end 5ft.  lOin. 

Coaming,  fore  end    4ft.  Sin. 

Well  at  deck,  fore  end  4ft.  lOIn. 

Backrests,  r  r  7.5in  and  9.3in. 

After  end  of  well lOft.  HJ^in. 

Bulkhead 10ft.  9i^ln. 

Deck  tiller 10ft.  lOin. 

After  trunk,  fare  end Hft.  SJ^in. 

After  trunk,  after  end 12ft.  6in. 

Deck  hatch,  fore  side lift,  llin 

Deck  hatch,  af  ier  side 12ft.  9in. 

Width  of  cockpit 1ft.  6in. 

Coaming,  height  at  fore  end 8in. 

Coaming,  height  at  middle Sin. 

Waterlints  3m.  apart;  buttock  and  bowlines,  51n.  apart;  sections, 
2ft.  apart,  from  fore  side  of  stem;  floor  above  garboardj,  8J^in.;  stem 
and  stern  sided  lin.,  keel  sided  (width)  3in;  moulded  (thickness)  lin.: 
keel  batten,  I4in.x4in.  at  amld.ships;  sidmg,  J^in  ;  rib.^,  )4x5-16, 
spaced  Sin.,  Oin.  at  ends;  deck,  ^^'^-t  diameter  of  mast  tubes,  Sin; 
floors,  6-1  Uin. 


168  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 


RKFKRPINCES. 

a, 

stem,  hackmatack. 

m. 

coaming,  oak. 

b. 

stern,  hackmatack. 

n. 

hatch,  mahogany. 

c, 

keel,  oak. 

o. 

after  hatch. 

d. 

keel  ba'  ten.  oak. 

P< 

deck  batch. 

e. 

ribs,  oak. 

q. 

cencer  strip  of  deck,  mahog. 

f. 

bulkhead,  pine,  i^in 

r, 

back  rests,  oak. 

9: 

headledges,  oak. 

s, 

heel  brace,  oak. 

h. 

sides  of  trunk,  pine 

yja. 

t. 

steerinjr  pedals,  oak. 

f, 

deck  beams,  pine. 

u. 

deck  tiller. 

k. 

knees,  oak  or  hackmafk. 

V, 

centerboard  hinges,  brass. 

I, 

maststeps,  oak. 

z. 

lloor  leJges,  cedar. 

The  keel  batten,  ^ia.  thick,  is  a  separate  piece;  but  it 
would  be  better  if  -worked  ia  one  with  the  keel.  The  center- 
board  trunks  are  both  below  deck,  closed  on  top  and  opening 
only  on  the  bottom.  The  board?,  of  sheet  brass,  are  hinged 
by  means  of  two  L-shaped  pieces,  shown  at  v,  one  on  each 
side  of  the  board.  These  pieces  are  each  fastened  to  the 
keel  by  a  screw  from  the  outside.  To  remove  the  board  the 
canoe  is  turned  over,  the  two  screws  taken  out,  and  the  boat 
turned  back,  whtn  the  board  will  drop  out.  The  fore  board 
is  of  -i%in.  brass,  weighing  lolbs.  The  after  board  is  of  ^in. 
brass,  weighing  51bs.,  and  is  quadrant-shaped.  Each  is 
filed  to  a  sharp  edge.  They  are  hoisted  by  cords,  the  for- 
ward pendant  belaying  on  a  cleat  on  after  end  of  the  trunk; 
the  after  pendant  coming  through  the  deck  to  a  cleat  on 
starboard  side  deck,  abreast  the  canoeist.  The  three  mast 
tubes  are  of  uniform  size.  2in.  inside,  so  the  masts  may  be 
interchanged.  The  rudder  is  of  Jin.  oak,  thinned  down  at 
the  edges,  the  yoke  being  a  semi-circular  piece  with  a  score 
in  it  for  the  rudder  lines,  of  brass  chaiu.  The  foot  gear  con- 
sists of  two  oak  pedals,  t  t,  fitted  to  the  floor  boards  with 
brass  spring  hinges.  When  two  are  paddling,  the  after  man 
uses  the  braces,  s  s,  in  the  floor,  the  back-board  for  the  for- 
ward man  being  at  r.  The  hatch,  o,  is  made  with  an  outside 
jim,  fitting  over  the  coaming  and  close  to  the  deck.  There 
is  no  fore  bulkhead,  as  usually  fitted,  and  the  sliding  bulk- 
head is  also  omitted,  a  piece,  r,  taking  lis  place  in  support- 
ing the  hatch  and  carrying  the  back  board.  The  broken 
lines  in  the  sectional  view  show  the  inner  edges  of  the  plauk- 


AMA  TE UB  CANOE  B  UILDINO.  169 

ing,  the  widths  of  the  same  at  midships  being  given  in  the 
cross  section,  page  165. 


Plate  XXI.— Class  B  Canoe  "Sunbeam." 

This  canoe  was  built  early  in  1885  by  James  Everson 
for  Mr.  J.  F.  Newman  for  a  cruising  canoe.  The  model 
has  since  become  very  popular  and  a  number  of  these  boats 
•were  present  at  the  meet  of  1885.  The  boat  is  intended  for 
general  use  in  wide  waters  where  balla&t  U  desiiable,  and 
upward  of  lOOlbs.  of  shot  in  bags  is  carried.  For  use  in 
narrower  waters  a  flatter  floor  would  be  needed,  no  ballast 
being  carried.  Though  intended  for  a  cruiser,  the  canoe  has 
proved  very  fast  and  several  of  the  same  model  have  taken 
a  place  among  the  racers  of  their  class.  The  interior  arrange- 
ments are  of  the  usual  form.  At  d,  e  and  /are  bulkheads, 
that  at/ being  movable.  The  well  is  covered  with  hatches, 
in  the  usual  style,  a  a  and  c  c  are  airtanks  of  phosphor  bronze. 
The  dimensions  are : 

Length 15ft. 

Beam 2ft.  6in. 

Depth  amidships llin. 

Sheer  at  bow  7ia.,  at  stern h%\n. 

Crown  of  deck 2in. 

Distance  from  foreslde  ot  stem  to— 

Mainmas^ 1ft.  Sin. 

Bulkhead 4ft.  3in. 

Fore  end  of  well 4ft.  lOin. 

After  end  of  well  lOfD.  9in. 

Sliding  bulkhead 9ft.  6in. 

Mizzenmast lift.  Sin. 

After  bulkhead lift.  6in. 

The  dimensions  of  frame,  planking,  etc.^  are  the  same  as 
in  the  Lassie.  The  rig  of  the  Sunbeam  is  two  balance  lugs 
of  70  and  35i't.  for  racing,  or  50  and  15it.  for  cruising. 

In  the  fall  of  1886  the  afterboard  and  trunk  were  removed, 
a  brass  drop  rudder  was  added,  and  the  detidwood  at  stem 
and  stern  cut  away  as  far  as  possible,  the  canoe  being  too 
slow  in  stays. 


170  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

Plates  XXII.  and  XXIII.— Pecowsic. 

Perhaps  the  greatest  pleasure  that  comes  to  most  own- 
ers of  boats  is  not  so  much  in  actually  possessing  the 
fastest  craft  of  all,  as  in  the  continual  effort  to  gain  that 
desired  end  by  sm'passing  the  similar  efforts  of  others:  a 
competition  that  is  often  more  exciting  and  engrossing 
than  the  final  test  by  which  in  a  few  hours  the  results  of 
this  labor  are  proved  to  be  satisfactory  or  the  reverse.  It 
often  happens  that  the  development  of  the  highest  capa- 
bilities of  a  yacht  is  the  work  of  several  seasons  of  care- 
ful and  painstaking  effort,  and  of  many  changes  and  ex- 
periments; work  that  calls  into  play  all  the  inventive 
faculties  and  reasoning  powers,  but  that  ultimately  brings 
a  far  higher  reward  when  success  is  attained  than  do  the 
briefer  and  less  intellectual  struggles  of  the  regatta 
course.  It  is  from  this  point  of  view  that  the  canoe, 
looked  on  contemptuously  by  many  as  a  mere  toy,  and 
unworthy  of  serious  notice,  commends  itself  to  a  large 
number  of  intalligent  men  as  a  fitting  subject  for  their 
study.  Where  the  first  cost  of  a  yacht  may  range  from 
ten  to  thirty  thousand  dollars  and  the  cost  of  any  changes 
are  in  proportion,  there  are  comparatively  few  who  are 
able  to  follow  the  sport  to  its  fullest  extent;  but  in  the 
canoe,  while  the  cost  of  boat,  outfit,  and  a  season's  racing 
will  not  exceed  two  or  three  hundi-ed  dollars,  the  interest 
is  no  less  intense,  the  competition  is  as  keen,  and  the  re- 
wards are  great  in  proportion.  In  no  other  sailboat,  per- 
haps, is  there  so  much  room  for  ingenuity  and  invention. 
The  small  size  of  the  boat  and  the  amount  of  work  her 
crew  of  one  must  do  make  it  necessary  that  everything 
should  be  arranged  to  the  best  advantage,  while  the 
strong  competition  between  the  various  craft,  both  in 
home  and  distant  races,  is  a  constant  stimulus  toward 
improvement  in  modal,  rig  and  fittings.  Every  one  fa- 
miliar with  the  leading  canoes  will  recognize  the  fact 
that  each  testifies  not  only  to  her  owner's  skill  as  a  sailor 
but  also  as  a  designer,  rigger  and  inventor,  and  that  each 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  171 

boat,  while  all  are  alike  to  the  casual  observer,  possesses  a 
marked  individuality  of  its  own. 

From  this  point  of  view  no  less  than  from  the  promi- 
nence which  he  has  lately  attained,  the  canoeing  experi- 
ence of  Mr.  E.  H.  Barney  of  the  Springfield  C.  C,  is  a 
most  interesting  and  instructive  one.  Taking  up  canoe- 
ing as  a  novice,  at  an  age  when  most  men  have  given  up 
such  sports,  he  has  in  less  than  three  years  won  a  most 
enviable  place  among  the  leaders  of  the  sport.  Mr.  Bar- 
ney began  his  canoeing  early  in  1884  with  a  lateen  rigged 
canoe  of  good  model  and  fitted  in  the  best  style  of  the 
leading  builders;  but  a  short  trial  served  to  show  many 
points  that  were  capable  of  improvement.  The  rudder, 
fitted  in  the  usual  manner,  was  not  perfect  by  any  means 
and  soon  gave  place  to  an  original  method  of  his  own 
that  is  no  less  admirable  for  its  effectiveness  than  for  its 
simplicity  and  mechanical  perfection.  With  this  came  a 
new  deck  tiller,  a  rudder  yoke  that  could  not  foul  the 
mizzen  sheet,  the  "fishtail"  rudder  and  many  smaller 
details.  A  little  experience  brought  changes  in  sails, 
rigging  and  centerboard,  until  this  novice  was  soon 
looked  upon  as  one  of  the  leaders  in  the  field  of  canoe 
inventions.  His  first  boat  was  soon  discarded  for  a  bet- 
ter, and  this  in  turn  made  way  for  a  third,  until  the  fifth, 
the  well-known  Pecowsic,  was  purchased  last  year. 

Three  of  these  canoes  have  borne  the  name  Pecowsic, 
the  one  here  illustrated  being  the  third;  and  this,  like  its 
predecessor,  was  built  for  Mr.  Barney  by  F.  Joyner,  of 
Glens  Falls,  N.  Y.  The  model  was  made  by  the  builder 
to  Mr.  Barney's  order,  and  the  method  of  construction, 
,  the  smooth-skin  lap,  is  the  same  as  Mr.  Joyner  has  em- 
ployed so  successfully  for  some  time.  The  general  ar- 
rangements, the  positions  of  masts,  boards,  etc.,  as  well 
as  the  entire  rig,  were  planned  by  Mr.  Barney.  The 
accompanying  lines  were  very  carefully  taken  from  a 
small  drawing,  and  the  full-sized  outlines  of  the  moulds, 
furnished  by  Mr.  Joyner;  but  some  fairing  was  neces  ary 
to  put  the  drawing  in  its  present  shape.    The  midship 


173  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

section  shows  far  less  deadrise  than  an  inspection  of  the 
boat  itself  woiild  indicate,  the  cutting  away  of  the  ends 
giving  an  idea  of  a  sharp  V  section,  quite  different  from 
what  the  drawing  shows.  The  bulk  of  the  hull  is  small, 
and  its  internal  capacity  limited,  though  it  is  claimed 
that  there  is  ample  room  for  cruising  outfit,  and  that  the 
boat  is  well  adapted  for  general  work.  There  is  but  one 
bulkhead  just  abaft  the  well,  closed  with  one  of  Joyner's 
circular  hatches.  The  fore  end  of  the  boat  is  entirely 
open,  to  permit  of  the  stow^age  of  spars  and  sails.  The 
board  is  a  sheet  of  thin  brass  only  30in.  long  but  rising 
high  above  the  top  of  the  low  trunk,  shown  by  the  dotted 
lines  in  the  sheer  plan;  before  the  Meet  of  1886  the  board 
was  shifted  lOin,  forward  of  the  position  shown.  The 
well  is  short  and  far  aft,  while  the  tnink  interferes  with 
the  room,  and  sleeping  is  difficult  if  not  absolutely  im- 
possible. As  no  ballast  is  carried  and  there  is  little 
weight  of  metal,  the  danger  of  sinking  if  filled  is  re- 
moved, especially  as  one  air  tank  is  carried  in  the  after 
end.  The  weight  of  the  hull,  about  lOOlbs. ,  is  nearly  all 
made  up  of  wood.    The  dimensions  are  as  follows: 

Length,  extreme 15ft.  lO^in. 

l.w.l 15ft.   6  in. 

Beam,  extreme 28*in. 

l.w.l 27Mn. 

Depth,  amldship 9Mn. 

Sheer,  bow 8  in, 

stern S^in, 

Draft  62in, 

Crown  of  deck 2*in, 

Well,  width 17  in, 

length 5ft.  OOMn. 

Foreside  of  stem  to  foremast 7  in. 

mainmast. 6ft.   6*in. 

mizzenmast 13ft.   4  in. 

weU,  fore  end 6ft.  lOMn. 

well,  after  end 12ft. 

bulkhead 12ft. 

centerb'd  trunk,  fore  end  Oft.  7  in. 
centerb'd  trunk,  after  end  9ft.  1  in. 
The  first  station  is  2ft.  from  stem,  the  others  are  each  ISin. 
apart.    The  waterlines  are  2J4in.  apart. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUTLDTNG.  173 

The  most  x)eculiar  feature  of  the  boat  is  her  rig,  differ- 
ing as  it  does  from  anything  else  in  canoeing.  The  ad- 
vantages of  the  simple  leg  o'  mutton  sail  were  too  appar- 
ent not  to  be  quickly  seized  upon  by  canoeists,  but  a  diffi- 
culty was  experienced  in  obtaining  sufficient  area;  be- 
sides which  the  sail  is  hard  to  hoist  in  such  small  sizes, 
the  mast  rings  having  no  weight  and  being  liable  to  jam 
very  frequently.  After  being  used  for  some  years  the 
sail  was  abandoned;  but  after  trying  the  others  in  turn, 
Mr.  Barney  was  attracted  by  the  simplicity  and  efficiency 
of  the  leg  o'  mutton  sail,  especially  for  an  unballasted 
boat  of  narrow  beam,  and  began  to  experiment  with  it, 
making  his  own  sails.  To  overcome  the  first  objection, 
he  added  a  third  sail,  thus  making  up  the  area;  while  it 
was  well  distributed  over  the  length  of  the  boat,  and  at 
the  same  time  the  center  of  effort  is  kept  low,  an  import- 
ant point  in  such  a  craft.  The  second  difficulty,  that  of 
handling,  was  disposed  of  by  lacing  each  sail  to  its  mast 
and  not  attempting  to  hoist  or  lower  it,  the  mast  and  aU 
being  removed  and  a  smaller  substituted  if  reefing  was 
required.  To  do  this  successful!}',  five  sails  are  carried, 
the  masts  and  tubes  being  all  of  one  size.  Three  of  the 
sails  must  be  set  at  once,  the  other  two  being  stowed 
below.  It  would  seem  that  not  only  is  this  shifting  a 
matter  of  difficulty  in  many  cases,  but  that  the  sails 
below  would  be  a  serious  incimabrance  in  so  small  a  boat, 
but  those  who  have  used  her  state  to  the  contrary. 

The  sails  and  spars  are  as  foUows  : 


Mast. 

Boom. 

Batten3, 

No. 

of. 

Area. 

No.l,   8ft. 

5f  C.  lOin. 

1 

22  sq.  f  fc. 

No.  2, 10ft. 

5ft.  lOin. 

2 

28  sq.  ft. 

No.  3, 10ft. 

5ft.  lOin. 

2 

33  sq.  ft. 

No.  4,  lOtt. 

5ft.  lOin. 

2 

33  sq.  ft. 

No.  5,  lift.  8in.    5ft.  lOin.  3  43  sq.  ft. 

The  sails  shown  in  Plate  XXIII.  are  Nos.  5,  4  and  2, 
No.  1  being  indicated  by  the  dotted  lines,  while  No.  3  is 
similar  to  No.  4,  but  smaller.  The  greatest  possible  area 
is  113ft.,  the  least  22ft.     The  booms  are  limited  in  length 


174  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

by  the  distance  between  main  and  foremasts,  and  the 
first  batten  in  each  sail,  except  No,  3,  is  to  gain  more 
area.  The  other  battens  were  added  to  make  the  sails 
sit  properly,  as  they  ba<:?ged  in  places.  Mr.  Barney  has 
used  very  light  spar?,  the  masts  being  slender  sticks  with 
a  quick  taper,  and  so  having  little  weight  aloft.  Tlie 
booms  are  fitted  with  brass  jaws  (Plate  XXIX.  a),  allow- 
ing them  to  top  up  easily.  The  sails  are  fastened  to  the 
spars  by  small  wire  staples,  such  as  are  used  for  blind 
slats.  No  lines  of  any  kind  are  used  except  the  sheets, 
and  the  extreme  limit  of  lightness  and  simplicity  is 
reached. 

Since  Pecowsic's  success  in  1886,  a  number  of  similar 
craft  have  appeared  in  the  races;  some  of  them  much 
fairer  in  model  than  the  lines  here  shown,  though  all  by 
the  same  builder.  None,  however,  have  equalled  the 
record  of  Mr.  Barney's  boat,  which  is  good  evidence  that 
the  reason  for  Pecowsic's  speed,  which  has  puzzled  so 
many  canoeists,  is  to  be  found  net  so  much  in  her  model, 
as  in  the  skill  and  care  with  which  she  is  rigged,  fitted 
up  and  handled.  In  1887  Pccowsic  was  sailed  by  Mr. 
Geo.  M.  Barney,  son  of  her  owner,  the  latter  using  anew 
canoe  of  similar  model,  but  rockered  up  much  more  aft, 
named  Lacowsic.  She  was  loft.  lOIn.  X37iin.,  built  at 
Springfield  under  Mr.  Barney's  supervision,  with  a  double 
skin.  The  sails  were  identical  with  Pecowsic's.  Both 
of  these  canoes  made  an  excellent  showing  in  the  seaeon 
of  1887. 


Plates  XXIII.,  XXIV.,  XXXa.— '«No  Ballast'  Canoe 
Vesper. 
The  utility  of  some  ballast  and  of  boats  built  to  carry  it 
is  generally  admitted  when  open-water  sailing  is  in  ques- 
tion, but  there  are  some  locations  where  a  totally  different 
type  of  boat  has  come  into  use,  and  has  found  great  favor 
at  the  expense  of  the  heavier-ballasted  craft.  This  has 
been  the  case  particularly  at  i\lbany,  whft-e  canoeing  is 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING. 


ITS 


confined  to  the  Hudson  River,  with  occasional  excursions 
to  neighboring  streams  of  a  similar  character.  The  boats 
first  used  by  the  Mohican  C.  C.  were  of  the  Shadow  and 
similar  models  as  built  a  few  years  since,  but  for  some 
years  the  club  has  displayed  great  activity  in  the  hunt  for 
improvement,  and  besides  the  sail  and  fittings  generally 
known  by  their  name,  they  have  devoted  much  attention 
to  the  question  of  model.  Vesper  was  designed  by  Mr. 
R.  W.  Gibson  in  1885-G,  and  built  by  Mr.  J.  H,  Rushton, 
the  huU  being  lapstrake  and  very  lightly  built. 
The  table  of  offsets  is  as  follows: 


CD 

1 

Hktghts. 

Half  Breadths. 

5 

QQ 

Deck 

Rabi 

Deck 

lOin. 

^ln.4^in. 

2J6in. 

lin. 

Keel. 

Diag. 
a.b.c. 

0 

Ftin 
18* 
15 

12* 
U 
102 
10 

1(P 

11» 

IB 

Ft.In 
0 
0* 
0» 
0 

0» 
0' 
(H 

Ft.In 
0» 
6' 
10» 
33* 
15 
15" 
U» 
12> 
7» 
0» 

0 

Ft.In 

Ft-In 

Ft.In 

Ft.In 

Ft.In 

Ft.In 
0. 
0* 
1 
1« 
1* 
1* 
1» 
1' 
0' 
0" 

Ft.In 

1 

2 

3.... 

4 

GJ.... 

0 

7.  ... 

8 

9  .  .. 

5» 

102 
133 

15 
15» 
14« 

12" 

7' 

183 

14* 
152 
148 
11* 
6 

4' 

83 

11« 
14. 
15 
13^ 
10* 
5 

2T 

lO" 

13 

W 

13 
8« 
3* 

4« 
8' 
11« 
13« 
10^ 
6^ 
1» 

5» 

9' 
12* 
14" 
15" 
14» 
11* 

60 

03 

1 
Foreside  8t< 

0 

0' 

3* 

7> 

14 

! 

The  dimensions  are: 

Length  over  all 15ft.  6«in. 

Beam,  exti-eme 30*in. 

1-w.l ao  in. 

Draft,  excluding  keelson 4<in. 

inchiding  keelson. 5  in. 


176  PROGEESS  OF  CANOEING. 

Freeboard,  bow 14  in. 

amidsMps 5<in. 

stern ll*in. 

Sheer,  bow 8«in. 

stern 6  in. 

Rake,  sternpost 2  in. 

Crown  of  deck 2  in. 

Diameter  of  mast  tubes -j  1^'?-  J^^j-  ^?Pf  ^^^ 

The  rig  shown  in  Plate  XXIII.,  has  the  ordinary  Mohi- 
can sails,  rigged  as  shown  in  detail  in  Plate  XVII. 


Plates  XXV.  and  XXVI.— Notus— Racing  and  Cruis- 
ing Canoe. 
After  a  season's  use  of  Vesper,  Mr.  Gibson  sold  her  and 
made  a  new  design  embodying  some  improvements,  and 
in  1887  Notus  was  built.  She  is  a  16x30  canoe,  much 
like  Vesper,  her  6in.  waterline  being  the  same;  but  she 
is  cut  away  more  under  water  forward,  giving  a  slightly 
hollow  entrance,  to  improve  her  j^erformance  in  rough 
water.  The  same  long,  fine  bow  and  full  stern  already 
tested  by  Mr.  Gibson  have  been  retained,  but  the  ex- 
tremely broad  and  long  floor  is  modified.  Notus  having 
about  lOin.  flat  and  an  elliptical  form  of  midship  section, 
leading  into  the  turn  of  the  bilge,  which  gives  remark- 
able strength.  The  stability  is  not  perceptibly  dimin- 
ished by  this  slight  rounding,  and  it  probably  assists 
turning,  which  Notus  does  with  the  greatest  case.  The 
canoe  was  built  by  Charles  Piepenbrink,  of  Albany,  under 
Mr.  Gibson's  personal  supervision,  and  is  a  remarkably 
fine  piece  of  work.  She  is  a  smoothskin,  with  only  three 
planks  to  a  side,  the  ribs  spaced  6in.  and  fastened  with 
brass  screws  from  the  inside.  A  few  screws  were  re- 
quired from  the  outside,  but  they  are  13in.  apart,  leaving 
the  bottom  absolutely  smooth.  The  planking  and  decks 
are  of  white  jjine,  and  the  trimmings  of  maple  and  ma- 
hogany, two  narrow  beads  along  each  side.  The  board 
is  of  sheet  brass,  SOxlSxAin.,  dropping  through  a  low 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING. 


177 


trunk.    There  are  four  bulkheads,  with  a  low  hatch  in 
the  fore  deck. 
The  table  of  offsets  is  as  follows: 


OD 

Hbighxs. 

Hau-Bbeadths. 

Rabbet 

Deck. 

Deck. 

81n. 

Bin. 

4in. 

2iT). 

KeeL 

n 

18 
15» 

0« 

0« 
2» 

1.. 

1 

2 

V 

O* 

OJ 

2.. 

0» 

14» 

r 

5' 

4» 

S» 

1' 

0* 

8.. 

0« 

12' 

9' 

8" 

7 

5» 

3" 

0' 

4.. 

0 

11» 

11' 

10» 

9» 

7« 

5' 

6.. 

0 

10' 

13* 

12" 

ll* 

9' 

.     7" 

6.. 

0 

103 

14' 

13' 

13» 

11« 

9« 

7.. 

0 

10 

14* 

14» 

14" 

13« 

10' 

8.. 

0 

10 

14' 

>     14' 

14* 

13' 

12 

ia.. 

0 

10 

15 

15 

14' 

14> 

12» 

10.. 

0 

10> 

14' 

14' 

14* 

13' 

12' 

u.. 

0 

10» 

14* 

14» 

14» 

13' 

11» 

12.. 

0 

10* 

13« 

13» 

12« 

11» 

9* 

13.. 

0' 

11< 

11* 

11' 

10* 

9» 

7 

14.. 

QP 

12» 

8» 

7' 

7" 

6» 

4" 

15.. 

0» 

14» 

4» 

4 

8» 

2« 

1» 

0* 

16.. 

16 

0» 

0« 

0> 

0' 

0' 

C 

The  dimensions  of  Notus  are: 

Length  over  all 16ft. 

Beam SOin. 

Depth lOin. 

Sheer  at  bow Sin. 

at  stern Bin. 

Fore  side  of  stem  to  bulkheads, 

2ft.  Bin.,  5ft.,  10ft.  Bin.,  13ft.   Bin. 
mainmast 9in. 


178  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

Fore  side  of  stem  to  mizenmast llf  g.  lOin. 

board,  fore  end 5ft.   Sin. 

after  end 8£t.    2in. 

coaming,  fore  end 4ft.   Sin. 

after  end lift.    Gin. 

The  sails  were  devised  by  IVIr,  Gibson,  and  are  made  of 
bleached  muslin  in  one  width,  the  edges  being  bound 
with  wide  tape.  The  battens  fit  in  pockets  in  the  usual 
roanner.  The  spars  are  very  light,  the  masts  2in.  square 
at  deck,  tapering  to  fin.  diameter  at  head,  the  main  boom 
liin.  diameter,  battens  ^in.  thick.  The  dimensions  of 
sails  and  spars  are: 

Main.  Mizen. 

Mast,  deck  to  liead 13£t.    9in.     lift.    4in. 

SaU,  onfoot...  9ft.  6ft.    Oin. 

along  first  batten 8ft.    Sin.       6ft.    6in. 

along  second  batten 8ft. 

luflf 13ft.  10ft.    Gin. 

leech,  total 14ft.    Tin.     Hit.    Sin. 

leech,  above  batten lOt't.    Sin.       9ft.    6in. 

spacing  of  battens,  fore  end,  1  t.  llin.       1ft.  llin. 
afcercnd,2it.li^in.       2rt.lJ^in. 
area,  square  feet 69ft.  39ft. 

The  first  reef  leaves  52  ft.  in  main  and  2Gft.  in  mizen, 
the  second  reef  leaves  35ft.  in  main.  The  mizen  can  be 
stepped  forward  and  a  storm  mizen  added.  The  luff  of 
the  mainsail  is  roached  4in.  in  13ft.  and  the  luff  of  the 
mizen  in  the  same  proportion.  The  usual  reef  gear  is 
added.  The  sails  are  hoisted  by  halliards  and  lowered 
with  downhau's.  the  attachment  to  the  mast  being  by  a 
lacing,  as  shown.  This  lacing  (Plate  XXIX. a)  is  simi- 
lar to  the  ordinary  hammock  or  netting  stitch,  the  loop 
or  mesh  loosening  as  soon  as  the  halliard  is  cast  off,  but 
as  the  latter  is  haided  taut  the  meshes  lengthen  and 
draw  the  luff  closely  to  the  mast.  It  has  been  suggested 
that  a  few  small  beads  on  the  lacing  near  each  knot  would 
make  the  sail  run  easier  in  hoisting  and  lowering.  In 
the  fall  of  1887  Notus  was  sold  to  Mr.  R.  W.  Bailey,  Pitts- 
burgh C.  C. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  179 

Plates  XXVIT.,  XXVIII.  and  XXIX.,  15x31,  Class  B, 
Bacinq  and  Ceuising  Canoe. 

This  design  was  made  in  1883  for  Mr.  Wm,  Whitlock, 
of  New  York,  by  Mr.  John  Hyslop,  and  from  it  the  well- 
known  Guenn  was  built  in  the  winter  of  '83-4.  Unfor- 
tunately she  was  too  large  for  the  A.  C.  A.  limits,  and  in 
order  to  race  she  had  to  be  shortened,  drawn  in  and  re- 
decked  after  being  in  use  for  sorfae  time,  which  altered 
the  lines  materially.  Further  than  this,  she  was  heavily 
built,  with  a  large  keel  and  a  fan  centerboard,  thus  handi- 
capping her  in  racing.  In  spite  of  these  disadvantages 
she  has  shown  good  speed  at  times,  and  there  is  every 
reason  to  believe  that  the  model  is  a  fast  one,  though  not 
fairly  tested  in  Guenn. 

In  the  present  design  the  outlines  of  the  hull  have  been 
preserved  intact,  but  the  raking  stsrnpost  of  Guenn  has 
been  replaced  by  a  straight  one,  in  accordance  with  the 
latest  practice,  and  tlie  exterior  keel  and  the  deep  dead- 
wood  aft  have  also  been  cut  away.  The  scantling  is 
given  for  a  light  but  strong  cruising  boat,  and  with  the 
model  and  suitable  rig  she  should  prove  a  winner  in  the 
races  as  well.  A  canoe  built  closely  to  these  lines  would 
be  a  very  difEerent  craft  from  llie  old  Guenn.  The  hull 
is  large  and  powerful  and  well  fitted  to  carry  a  large  load 
of  stores  and  gear,  or  heavy  board  and  some  ballast  for 
racing.  Her  place  should  be  about  New  York  and  on 
broad  waters,  rather  than  on  the  upper  Hudson  and  the 
Connecticut;  and  she  will  undoubtedly  make  an  excellent 
all-round  boat  and  an  able  racer  as  well,  even  though 
she  should  i>rove  unable  to  master  the  Pecowsicr;  in  all 
weathers.  The  design  is  the  first  that  Mr.  Hyslop  had 
ever  made  for  a  canoe,  a  cla?s  of  boat  with  which  he  was 
not  familiar,  and  the  dimensions  and  the  leading  particu- 
lars were  given  by  Mr.  Whitlock,  the  designer  being  re- 
sponsible only  for  the  lines  of  the  mode\ 

It  will  bo  noticed  that  tbo  drawing  measures  but  30gin. 


180  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

extreme  beam,  with  i^Ianking.  If  the  moulds  are  care- 
fully made  to  this  size  the  boat  when  planked  may  be 
allowed  to  spread  a  little,  bringing  her  to  31in.,  leaving 
^in.  inside  the  A.  C.  A.  limit  before  the  deck  is  put  on. 
This  is  better  than  building  to  the  exact  width,  as  the 
boat  w^ill  always  spread  a  little.  At  the  same  time  it 
would  be  possible  to  build  a  30 in.  boat  from  the  same 
moulds,  using  a  little  care  in  drawing  the  sides  together 
before  timbering,  and  fastening  them  well  until  the  deck 
frame  is  in,  but  it  is  always  best  to  build  a  light  boat  nar- 
rower rather  than  wider  than  she  is  to  be,  and  then  aUow 
her  to  spread  a  little.  If  a  smaller  boat  is  desired  the 
design  may  be  cut  down  in  depth,  taking  2in.  off  the 
sheer  all  around  without  impairing  its  integrity.  Such  a 
boat  woiild  of  course  need  no  ballast,  and  would  be  a 
veiy  fair  match  for  Notus,  Vesper  and  others  of  that 
class.  The  line  shown  for  crown  of  deck  is  simplydrawn 
in  with  a  batten  to  make  a  fair  sweep,  with  a  crown  of 
2in.  at  midships.  This  will  not  allow  one  beam  mould  to 
be  used  throughout,  as  the  round  of  the  deck  beams  var- 
ies at  each  station,  but  it  will  make  a  handsome  deck. 
The  dimensions  are: 

Length,  extreme 15ft. 

Beam,  extrem.e  , 2ft.  Tin. 

Depth,  amidships 1ft.  0*ln. 

Sheer,  bow 6Hn. 

stern 2*in. 

Draft,  including  keel 6*in. 

Displacement,  to  above  draft 5351  bs. 

Per  inch  immersion ISOlbs , 

Area,  midship  section .965  sq.  ft. 

loadline  plane 23.88  sq.  ft. 

lateral  plane i 7.33  sq.  ft. 

C.  L.  R.  from  foresido  of  stem 7ft.  9*in. 

Watex-iines,  2in.  apart;  stations,  1ft.  apart. 

The  question  of  construction  is  still  as  much  in  dispute 
as  ever,  and  with  little  probability  of  a  final  settlement, 
as  each  of  the  leading  methods  has  its  strong  points,  to- 
gether with  some  marked  disadvantages.  The  large  and  in- 
creasing demand  for  canoes  of  all  sizes  has  stimulated 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING. 

TABLE  OF  OFFSETS. 


181 


i 

53 

Hexobts. 

Hau  Bbbadths. 

1 
CQ 

Deck 

Rab- 
bet. 

!  Deck!  No.  10. 

i              ! 

No.  8. 

No.  6. 

No.  4. 

No.  2. 

Rab- 
bet. 

0 

1  7» 
16* 

1» 

0« 
8' 

0' 
8> 

01 
2» 

1.. 

21 

1' 

0« 

0« 

2.. 

14» 

0» 

73 

6a 

6« 

4« 

3» 

2 

o» 

8.. 

Iff" 

O" 

9' 

9» 

8* 

7« 

5« 

3* 

0' 

4.. 

12* 

11' 

11« 

11 

10' 

8» 

6» 

5.. 

11* 

1  1» 

1    1» 

1    0' 

1    03 

10* 

7> 

6.. 

11« 

12» 

1    2» 

1    2> 

1    1* 

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8' 

7.. 

10« 

12' 

1    8 

1    2' 

1    2* 

1    1* 

10» 

8.. 

10» 

1  3> 

1    8» 

1    8> 

1    2' 

1    2> 

U» 

9.. 

10* 

13> 

1    8» 

1    3> 

1    2' 

1    2 

10' 

10.. 

10* 

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1    2« 

1    2» 

1    2» 

1    1 

9» 

11.. 

1  0» 

11» 

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1    V 

1    0' 

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12.. 

10' 

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1 

11* 

m 

10* 

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51 

0' 

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9 

S* 

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8 

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14.. 

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6 

4* 

3" 

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15.. 

18 

0» 

0> 

0> 

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0' 

0» 

the  inventive  powers  of  builders,  both  amateur  and  profes- 
sional, with  the  result  that  many  new  methods  have  of  late 
been  tried  with  more  or  less  success.  The  first  American 
canoes  were  all  lapstreak,  and  when,  in  1881,  the  author 
first  introduced  the  ribband-carvel  method  of  building  a 
smooth-skin  boat,  then  used  in  England,  it  met  with  no 
favor  from  American  canoeists,  there  being  a  strong  pre- 
judice in  favor  of  the  lapstreak.  Fashions  change  in 
canoes  as  in  dress,  and  for  the  past  two  years  smooth-skin 
boats  have  been  the  rage,  perhaps  for  no  better  reasons 
than  those  once  urged  against  them.     There  are  to-day 


182  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

half  a  dozen  excellent  methods  of  construction  from  which 
the  canoeist  can  choose  with  a  fair  certainty  of  having  a 
first-class  canoe,  and  it  would  be  a  very  difficult  matter 
for  an  unprejudiced  judge  to  say  which,  if  any,  is  abso- 
lutely the  best.  After  some  experience  in  building  and 
using  canoes,  and  some  familiarity  with  the  different 
methods  of  construction,  we  feel  safe  in  recommending 
the  lapstreak,  if  properly  built,  as  the  best  for  cruising. 
Whether  she  will  prove  the  fastest  alongside  of  some  of 
the  smooth-hulled  racers  is  still  an  open  question,  and 
most  canoeists  would  say  "No"  to  it,  but  some  badly  built 
lapstreaks  have  done  so  well  in  the  races  at  times  that 
there  is  every  reason  to  think  that  an  absolutely  smooth 
skin  counts  for  little  against  fine  and  well  laid  laps. 

Of  lapstreak  work  there  are  all  kinds,  from  the  clumsily- 
built  isram  of  the  Norwegians,  with  wooden  plugs  in  place 
of  nails,  to  the  carefully  planked  canoe  with  a  land  some- 
thing like  that  shown  at  3.  The  edges  of  both  plank  must 
be  very  accurately  beveled,  the  outer  edge  to  a  thickness 
of  -i\in.  or  a  little  more,  being  rounded  off  as  shown  in 
sandpapering.  The  common  lap  is  shown  in  3,  a  strong 
joint,  but  giving  a  poor  surface.  The  strength  of  the  lap- 
streak has  repeatedly  been  proved  beyond  question,  it  will 
stand  both  wear  and  hard  knocks,  while  it  is  very  light. 
"With  the  requisite  care  and  skill  the  bottom  of  the  boat 
may  be  made  to  compare  very  favorably  with  any  of  the 
smooth-skin  methods,  and  after  a  season  of  rough  cruising 
the  lapstreak  canoe  will  probably  be  in  better  condition 
than  the  others.  One  method  of  secui'iug  a  smooth  skin 
is  shown  in  1,  the  plank  being  cut  with  a  special  plane, 
taking  half  out  of  each.  The  ribband  carvel  canoes  built 
by  the  author  in  1881  and  2  had  a  strip  inside  the  seam, 
as  in  4,  both  planks  being  nailed  to  the  strip,  the  ribs  were 
put  in  afterward,  being  jogged  over  the  ribband.  The 
Albany  canoes  are  built  now  on  a  similar  plan,  but  by  a 
method  hardly  suitable  for  amateur  work.  A  strong 
mould  or  last  is  first  constructed  of  the  shape  of  the  in- 
side of  the  canoe.    The  dead  wood  and  all  the  riblmnds  are 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  188 

fastened  to  this  last,  the  ribbands  are  cut  away  so  that 
the  ribs  can  be  let  in  flush,  then  the  planks  are  laid  and 
screwed  to  the  ribbands  and  ribs.  The  construction  of 
the  mould  or  last  over  whicli  tlie  canoe  is  built  is  almost 
as  troublesome  and  costly  as  the  canoe  itself,  eo  this 
method  is  only  practicable  when  a  number  of  canoes  are 
to  be  built  of  the  same  model.  In  the  method  shown  in 
4  the  usual  plank  moulds  are  used,  as  in  lapstrcak  work, 
BO  the  proccs:^  is  well  adajited  to  the  needs  of  the  amateur. 

The  details  of  board,  rudder  and  steering  gear  here 
given  were  not  part  of  the  original  Guenn,  but  are  all 
original  with  the  author.  They  are  unpatented,  and  at 
the  service  of  all. 

In  the  construction  of  a  canoe  of  this  size,  presumably 
to  carry  some  ballast,  the  following  scantling  will  give 
strength  with  little  weight.  The  stem  and  stempost  wiU 
be  of  hackmatack,  sided  so  as  to  end  all  lines  fairly  at  the 
extreme  ends.  It  has  been  the  custom  to  make  these 
pieces  of  lin.  stuff,  which  Ln  most  cases  makes  an  angle 
in  the  waterlines  at  the  rabbet  in  stem  and  stern.  To 
avoid  this  they  must  be  sided  as  shown  by  the  full  size 
plan  which  will  be  laid  down  before  building.  The  stem 
will  be  iin.  on  its  fore  edge,  the  sternpost  |in.  The  stem 
band  will  be  made  from  iin.  half  round  brass  rod,  and 
after  it  is  screwed  in  place  the  wood  and  brass  will  be 
filed  down  together  untU  the  lines  are  carried  out  straight 
and  fair.  The  usual  method  is  shown  at  5,  the  proper 
one  at  6,  the  dotted  line  in  the  latter  shows  where  the 
stem  is  left  a  little  thick  in  cutting  the  rabbet,  being  filed 
and  planed  down  after  the  planking  is  completed  and 
the  stem  band  in  place. 

The  keel  is  usually  made  at  least  lin.  thick,  but  this  is 
in  no  way  necessary.  It  is  better  to  make  it  as  thin  as 
possible  and  quite  wide.  In  the  present  case  it  is  shown 
3in.  wide  and  ^in.  thick,  but  it  might  well  be  4  or  5in.  wide 
outside  and  but  ^in.  thick.  The  stiffness  of  the  bottom 
depends  but  little  on  the  thickness  of  the  keel,  the  main 
point  being  to  brace  the  whole  floor  system  thoroughly 


184  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

by  the  ledges  which  carry  the  floorboards.  The  keel 
may  be  regarded  simply  as  a  wide  bottom  plank,  and 
so  need  be  but  little  thicker  than  the  other  planks.  It 
is  here  shown  fin.  tliick,  or  i  inside  of  boat,  forming  the 
rabbet,  i  for  thickness  of  garboard,  and  i  projecting 
outside  of  garboards.  Really  all  that  is  needed  is  {-  for 
rabbet  inside  and  i  for  garboard,  leaving  no  projection 
outside.  If  at  the  same  time  the  keel  be  Sin.  wide  it 
makes  a  wide,  flat  surface  on  which  the  canoe  will  rest 
when  ashore  or  on  which  she  may  be  easily  dragged  over 
rocks  or  logs.  It  often  happens  that  while  a  canoe  can 
be  dragged  easily  enough,  there  is  great  difficulty  in 
holding  her  upright  on  her  keel  and  at  the  same  time 
dragging  her,  but  with  a  wide  keel  slie  will  always  keep 
upright  with  little  aid.  In  a  canoe  with  mu?h  deadrise 
the  keel,  if  very  wide,  may  be  slightly  rounded,  and  in 
any  case  it  should  be  protected  by  fin.  strips  of  flat 
brass  i^,jiii-  thick,  screwed  to  the  entire  length  and 
soldered  or  brazed  to  the  stem  band.  With  such  pro- 
tection and  a  similar  strip  4ft.  long  on  each  bilge,  the 
boat  will  stand  safely  a  great  amount  of  hard  work,  and 
as  for  racing,  the  lessened  damage  to  the  planking  vrfll 
more  than  compensate  for  any  slight  friction  of  the 
brass.  The  keel  should  be  worked  from  an  inch  board, 
leaving  the  full  thickness  at  the  ends  to  aid  in  forming 
the  deadwood,  but  planing  down  to  +in.  or  a  little  more 
at  the  middle  half  of  the  boat,  say  for  a  length  of  8ft. 
The  scarfs  of  stem  and  sternpost  as  well  as  the  fasten- 
ings are  shown.  It  is  now  the  fashion  to  place  the 
mainmast  as  far  forward  as  possible,  to  do  which  the 
step  must  come  in  a  part  where  the  lines  are  very  fine, 
which  necessitates  a  very  thick  step.  The  one  shown  is 
of  clear  white  pine,  to  save  weight,  and  is  fastened  in 
when  the  frame  is  put  together.  It  must  be  very 
securely  bo  ted  and  must  be  trimmed  carefully  to  shape 
just  as  the  deadwoods  are,  so  that  the  planks  will  fit  ac- 
curately against  its  sides.  The  stei>for  the  mizen  may 
be  put  in  afterward,  in  the  usual  way. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  185 

A  simpler  method  of  building  the  trunk  than  that  on 
page  91  id  to  put  the  sides  of  the  case  together  with  the 
headledges  between,  riveting  them  up,  then  to  get  out  a 
piece  of  pine  as  wide  as  the  top  of  the  keel  and  ^in.  thick, 
which  piece  is  screwed  fast  with  long  screws  to  the  bot- 
tom of  th.  trunk.  The  lower  side  of  this  bedpiece  is 
then  accurately  fitted  to  the  top  of  keel  and  screwed  fast 
by  short  screws  passing  through  it  into  the  keel.  The 
labor  of  rabbeting  is  avoided  and  the  joints,  if  laid  with 
white  lead  and  Canton  flannel,  will  be  perfectly  tight. 
The  sides  of  the  case  will  be  of  clear  white  pine,  |in.  on 
lower  edge  and  fin.  at  top.  The  headledges  will  be  lin. 
wide  and  thick  enough  to  allow  ample  room  for  the 
board.  The  planking  will  be  ^in.,  of  white  cedar.  The 
upper  strake.  of  the  width  shown  in  the  drawing,  will  be 
full  |in.  thick,  being  rabbeted  on  the  lower  edge  so  as  to 
lap  over  the  strake  below,  showing  ^iu.  outside.  There 
will  be  no  gunwale,  the  deck  being  screwed  to  this  upptr 
strake.  The  ribs  may  be  a  little  le58  than  f  xiin.,  spaced 
6in.,  with  two  rivets  between.  The  bulkheads  will  be 
fin.,  of  clear  white  pine.  "The  deck  will  be  of  ^in.  ma- 
hogany. The  ledges  for  the  floor  will  be  of  spruce  or 
hackmatack,  as  deep  as  the  distance  from  floor  to  gar- 
board,  and  |in.  thick.  They  should  be  very  securely 
fastened  with  long  rivets  through  each  lap  and  the  keel, 
at  least  two  through  the  latter.  If  long  nails  cannot  be 
had,  copper  wire  can  be  used,  with  large  burrs  on  each 
end.  These  ledges  should  be  placed  alongside  the  trunk, 
of  com-se  being  in  two  pieces  each,  and  a  stout  one  should 
be  placed  against  the  aftei-side  of  the  trunk  and  screwed 
to  the  headledge.  If  well  fastened  they  will  make  the 
bottom  perfectly  rigid,  no  matter  how  thin  the  keel  may 
be,  while  boats  are  often  found  with  a  keel  liin.  thick 
that  win  constantly  work  under  the  strain  of  the  board 
or  when  ashore.  The  centerboard  trunk  itself  plays  a 
very  important  part  in  strengthening  the  hull,  if  properly 
built  into  the  boat  and  coming  up  to  the  deck. 

The  shifting  bulkhead  is  placed  with  a  slight  slant,  to 


186  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

accommodate  the  back  better  than  if  vertical.  In  plan- 
ning the  arrangements,  every  effort  has  been  made  to 
give  plenty  of  room  for  cruising,  not  a  mere  hole  where 
a  man  may  stow  himself  for  half  an  hour,  but  room  to 
carry  stores  and  bedding,  to  cook,  to  change  one's 
clothes  and  to  sleep  in  comfort.  At  the  same  time  the 
sailing  qualities  could  not  be  neglected,  and  the  board 
has  been  placed  as  far  aft  as  possible,  with  a  provision 
for  shifting  it  still  further  aft  in  sailing,  as  will  be 
described  later.  The  distance  between  bulkheads  is  7ft. 
5in.,nndas  the  boat  is  both  wide  and  deep,  this  space 
should  give  plenty  of  room  for  all  stores;  but  the  after 
compartment  might  be  fitted  with  a  hatch  if  more  room 
were  desired.  As  now  arranged,  the  mess  chest  could 
fit  on  one  side  of  the  trunk,  and  the  clothes  bag  on  the 
other;  while  the  tent  and  the  bedding,  the  latter  tightly 
strapped  in  a  waterproof  bag,  would  be  in  the  locker 
under  the  movable  hatch.  In  sleeping,  there  would  be  a 
clear  length  of  5ft.  5|in.  from  bulkhead  to  after  end  of 
trunk,  and  the  feet  could  extend  for  a  few  inches  into 
the  space  beside  the  trunk  lately  occupied  by  the  clothes 
bag,  now  doing  duty  as  a  pillow.  The  tent,  of  course, 
would  be  set,  the  bedding  spread,  and  the  hatch  and 
bulkhead  l-emoved  for  the  night.  The  space  under  the 
side  decks  affords  plenty  of  room  for  oilers,  spare  gear, 
apron,  etc.  The  well  is  large,  as  in  summer  cruising  a 
man  requires  plenty  of  room,  and  if  the  feet  and  legs  are 
kept  continually  below  deck  they  will  be  very  warm. 
Sleeping,  cooking,  and  the  positions  one  naturally  takes 
to  obtain  a  rest  when  afloat  all  day,  demand  more  room 
than  some  racing  men  seem  to  think  necessary.  To  close 
the  large  well  in  stormy  weather,  the  best  plan  is  an 
apron  of  heavy  drill,  fitting  over  the  pointed  coaming 
and  tightly  laced  along  the  sides  to  screw  heads  outside 
the  coamings.  The  apron  may  extend  as  far  aft  as  the 
cleats  shown.  The  mast  tubes  are  21in.  at  deck,  taper- 
ing. Both  are  of  the  same  depth,  so  that  the  masts  may 
be  interchangable.     It  wUl  be  noticed  that  the  coaming 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  187 

id  cut  down  very  low  at  the  after  end.  _  It  was  formerly 
the  custom  to  make  the  coaming  as  liigh  there  as  any- 
where, but  this  is  not  necessary,  as  little  water  will  come 
aboard  in  the  center  of  tha  deck,  and  by  cutting  the 
coiming  down  low  the  need  of  raising  the  deck  tiller  is 
avoided. 

Tlie  arrangement  of  the  centerboard  is  peculiar  and 
entirely  novel.  The  usual  arrangement  has  a  movable 
pulley  for  the  lifting  pendant,  which  pulley  fits  in  a  brass 
plate  on  deck  (see  page  94),  This  plate  is  apt  to  work 
loose  under  the  strain  of  a  heavy  board,  to  avoid  which 
the  author  devised  the  plan  of  fastening  both  lifting  rod 
and  pulley  in  theii*  correct  relative  positions  on  a  strip  of 
hard  wood.  By  this  meOuUs  the  two  are  always  in  place, 
and  the  board  may  be  lifted  out  or  dropped  in  with  a  cer- 
tainty that  pulley  and  lifting  rod  are  in  their  correct  posi- 
tions. The  board  is  hung  by  two  strips  of  sheet  brass,  the 
upper  ends  of  both  coming  tlirough  tlie  strip  mentioned, 
being  secured  by  a  rivet.  In  use  the  board  is  hauled  up, 
the  pendant  belayed  on  a  cleat  on  the  strip,  and  all  may 
be  lifted  out  together.  With  a  board  of  501bs.  it  is  some- 
times all  that  a  man  can  do  to  ship  the  lifting  rod  and 
pulley  properly,  but  with  this  arrangement  no  special  ad- 
justment is  necessary,  the  board  and  strip  are  dropped  in 
place  and  aU  is  ready.  In  trying  this  arrangement  the 
idea  of  moving  the  board  forward  and  aft  suggested 
itself,  and  the  following  details  were  devised  to  accom- 
plish it.  The  strip  was  provided  with  four  small  wheels, 
a  a  a  a,  sections  cut  from  a  iin.  brass  rod,  with  an  ^in. 
hole  drilled  in  the  center.  These  wheels  work  in  slots 
cut  ia  the  slip  A.  The  lifting  pendant  leads  through  the 
cheek  block  C,  or  through  a  double  block  if  more  power 
is  needed,  or  tlie  line  may  lead  directly  aft,  without  a 
purchase.  A  line  G,  is  attached  to  the  fore  end  of  A, 
leading  through  a  cheek  block  D,  on  the  deck,  thence  aft 
to  a  cleat,  as  shown.  A  third  line  E,  is  fast  to  the  after 
end  of  A,  and  leads  through  a  hole  in  the  coaming,  as 
shown.     In  operation,  the  board  is  tirst  dropped,  then  by 


188  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

casting  ofiF  the  line  G  the  strip  A,  with  board  suspended 
from  it,  will  run  aft  until  the  lifting  pendant  reaches  the 
after  end  of  case,  when  the  board  will  ba  in  the  position 
shown  by  the  dotted  line.  This  will  carry  the  center  of 
the  board  aft  about  a  foot  at  least,  and  will  make  a  ma- 
terial difference  in  the  balance  of  the  hull  and  sails.  The 
line  E  is  used  to  draw  the  board  aft  if  necessary,  or  a 
rubber  spring  may  be  attached  to  it,  so  as  to  act  auto- 
matically. In  hoisting,  the  board  must  first  be  drawn 
forward  by  the  line  G,  after  which  it  may  be  raised  by  F. 
There  is  this  objection — the  board  cannot  be  raised  if 
aground  untU  it  is  hauled  forward,  but  as  the  device  is 
for  sailing,  usually  in  deep  water,  this  is  of  little  conse- 
quence. If  the  device  is  to  be  placed  in  a  new  boat,  the 
case  may  extend  as  shown  about  a  foot  further  aft,  to  the 
height  of  the  boards,  in  which  event  the  board  may  be 
raised  some  distance  while  in  the  after  position,  or  may 
be  easily  cleared  in  case  of  grounding.  The  main  use  of 
the  shifting  board  is  to  improve  the  balance  of  saU, 
allowing  full  or  reefed  sail  to  be  carried  at  will,  and  giv- 
ing just  as  much  weather  helm  as  may  bt  r.t  any  time 
desirable.  Ey  its  use  the  centerboard  trunk  can  be  placed 
well  forward,  and  yet  in  racing:  the  board  itself  may  be 
readily  adjusted  to  one  of  several  position-,  and  may  be 
thrown  at  least  a  foot  further  aft.  Two  points  are  neces- 
sary ;  the  case  must  be  wide  enough  to  allow  the  board  to 
move  freely,  and  the  after  pendant  must  be  made  fast  so 
far  aft  that  the  board  will  not  rise  at  the  fore  end  through 
the  after  end  being  the  heavier. 

The  cheek  blocks  may  be  cut  out  of  mahogany,  with 
brass  sheaves,  or  they  may  be  cut  or  sawn  out  oi  iVin. 
sheet  brass,  filed  up  neatly  and  bent  in  a  vise  to  the 
proper  shape  to  fit  the  sheave.  Sheaves  of  this  kind  are 
readily  made  by  sawing  with  a  hack  saw  pieces  from 
the  ends  of  brass  rods  of  various  sizes,  holes  are  drilled 
in  the  centers,  the  pieces  are  held  in  a  vise  and  the  score 
or  groove  cut  with  a  small  round  file.  With  a  very  few 
tools  for  working  brass  both  blocks  and  sheaves  with 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING. 


189 


many  other  small  fittings  may  be  easily  made  by  the 
amateur.  The  hoisting  pulley  B  is  shown  on  a  large  scale 
to  illustrate  the  construction.  The  main  part  of  the  shell 
is  made  from  a  piece  of  sheet  brass  doubled  over  in  the 
form  shown,  the  upi)er  part  being  a  half  circle.    To  each 


1^ 


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o      ^      o 


oz: 


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^ 


STEPHENS'  RUDDER  FASTENTNG. 


190  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

side  a  strip  of  brass  bent  at  right  angles  is  riveted,  a 
mortise  is  cut  in  the  strip  A,  the  brass  case  is  set  in  until 
the  side  pieces  rest  on  the  strip,  and  then  fastened  by- 
screws  tlirough  these  sides.  The  pulley  is  put  in  place 
and  the  pin  on  which  it  turns  is  run  through  holes 
drilled  in  the  sides  of  the  case,  the  ends  then  being 
riveted  up. 

The  rudder  shown  is  of  mahogany,  a  cruising  rudder. 
The  lower  side,  below  the  keel,  is  sharpened  to  a  fine 
edge.  The  rudder  hanging  is  shown  in  the  small  draw- 
ing, page  189.  The  part  attached  to  the  boat  or  canoe 
consists  of  an  upper  and  lower  brace  of  the  usual 
form,  A  and  C,  with  a  rod  E,  iin.,  running  through 
them  and  screwed  into  C.  On  the  rudder  is  a  common 
brace,  B,  at  the  top.  At  the  bottom  is  a  split  brace,  D, 
made  of  two  castings,  a  and  b,  both  exactly  alike,  but 
fastened  on  opposite  sides  of  the  rudder.  The  upper  sides 
of  the  pair  are  shown  at  1,  the  fore  ends  at  2,  and  the 
lower  sides  at  3.  It  will  be  seen  that  by  laying  the 
rudder  horizontally  with  the  port  side,  D  uppermost,  the 
opening  between  a  and  b,  Fig.  2,  will  admit  the  rod  E. 
Now  if  the  rudder  be  raised  to  a  vertical  position,  the 
two  hooks  embrace  the  rod  E,  the  upper  brace,  B,  is 
dropped  over  the  top  of  E,  and  the  rudder  is  fast,  only 
to  be  released  by  raising  B  off  the  rod  and  dropping  the 
rudder  horizontally.  In  practice  the  split  brace  can  be 
put  on  or  off  the  rod  by  inclining  the  rudder  to  an  angle 
of  45  degrees,  without  laying  it  horizontal.  With  this 
gear  there  are  no  detached  parts,  the  work  may  all  be 
done  at  the  upper  part  of  the  rod,  just  below  A,  and  it  is 
not  necessary  to  grope  under  water  to  ship  the  lower 
pintle.  The  rudder  can  only  be  detached  by  raising  B 
from  the  top  of  the  rod.  and  the  rudder  lines,  when 
attached,  prevent  it  rising  sj  far  of  itself. 

The  deck  1  "Her  and  gear  shown  have  been  tried  in  prac- 
tice and  found  to  work  perfectly,  the  whole  arrangement 
being  very  strong,  while  there  is  not  the  least  chance  for 
lines  to  foul  the  rudder  yoke  or  deck  yoke.    The  former 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  191 

is  in  the  shape  of  a  wooden  wheel,  6in.  diameter  and  |in. 
thick,  turned  in  a  lathe,  with  a  groove  fin.  deep  around 
it,  large  enough  to  take  tlia  rudder  lines  of  rein,  copper 
wire  rope.  This  wheel  is  fitted  on  its  lower  side  with  the 
usual  dovetiil  plates,  one  being  fastened  to  the  deck  and 
one  to  the  wheel.  Tiio  deck  immediately  beneath  the 
wheel  should  be  leveled,  so  that  the  wheel  will  bear  on 
its  entire  lower  surface.  On  the  upper  side  of  the  wheejf 
are  two  hasps,  bent  out  of  sheet  brass  and  screwed  fast  to 
the  wheel,  in  which  the  tiller  ships.  The  tiller  is  reduced 
at  the  after  end,  where  it  fits  into  the  after  hasp,  but  on 
top  of  it  is  a  spring,  K,  of  flat  spring  brass,  turned  up  at 
a  right  angle  at  the  after  end,  as  shown.  This  hook  on 
the  spring  serves  to  hold  the  tiller  in  i)lace,  a-nd  further 
acts  to  raise  the  fore  end  of  the  tiller.  By  this  means 
some  spring  is  allowed  in  the  latter,  and  in  case  of  any 
weight  being  suddenly  thrown  on  it,  it  will  give  until  the 
hand  touches  the  top  of  the  hatch  and  will  not  break  off. 
As  the  wheel  lias  a  bearing  6in.  long,  no  matter  what 
position  it  is  in,  there  is  no  danger  of  twisting  cflf  the 
plate.  The  weak  point  of  most  deck  tillers  is  the  long 
pin  and  high  block  on  which  they  are  mounted  to  enable 
the  yoke  and  tiller  to  clear  the  hatch,  and  with  such  a  rig 
breakdowns  are  frequent.  The  present  rig  is  both  strong 
and  compact,  the  long  grotesquely  curved  arms  that  foul 
sheets  and  halliards  are  absent,  and,  if  fitted  closely  to 
the  deck,  no  lines  can  foul. 

On  the  rudder  head  is  a  similar  wheel,  of  the  same  size, 
but  with  the  fore  side  cut  away  as  shown,  so  as  to  allow 
it  to  be  placed  below  the  level  of  the  deck.  The  angle 
allows  ample  play  for  the  rudder.  In  order  to  insure 
perfect  action  the  center  of  the  wheel  must  coincide  ex- 
actly with  the  center  of  the  pin  on  which  the  rudder  is 
hung,  then  the  lines  will  be  of  the  same  length,  no  matter 
how  far  over  the  helm  may  be  thrown.  The  lines  for  the 
foot  gear,  also  wire  rope,  run  round  the  rudder  wheel, 
being  fastened  at  one  point  only,  so  that  they  cannot  slip 
on  the  wheel.    The  two  ends  are  led  forward  and  down 


193  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

through  the  deck,  as  shown.  A  brass  ring  is  securely 
lashed  to  each  line  near  where  it  leaves  the  wheel,  and  a 
strong  hook  on  the  end  of  each  of  the  short  lines  from  the 
deck  wheel  will  hook  into  the  ring.  The  short  lines  are 
each  provided  witb  turnbuckles,  as  shown,  by  which  they 
may  be  tightened.  When  the  deck  tiller  is  not  needed 
the  turnbuckles  are  slacked  up,  the  short  lines  unhooked, 
and  the  deck  wheel  may  be  removed,  leaving  only  the 
lower  plate  set  in  the  deck.  The  rudder  wheel  should  be 
set  as  low  as  possible  and  yet  allow  the  lines  to  clear  the 
deck;  there  is  no  seed  to  have  it,  as  is  often  seen,  far  up 
in  the  air.  If  tlie  two  wheels  are  anywhere  near  the 
same  height  there  will  be  no  possible  chance  for  the  lines 
to  run  out  of  the  grooves;  in  fact,  if  thrown  out  in  any 
way  they  at  once  spring  back.  Of  course  there  is  nothing 
to  catch  the  mizen  sheet,  as  the  lines  will  keep  it  from 
getting  undsr  the  wheel.  With  a  6in.  wheel  there  is 
power  enougla  to  turn  a  much  larger  rudder  than  is 
needed  on  a  canoe;  in  fact,  the  wheel  might  be  even 
smaller  if  desirable  for  any  reason.  One  great  advan- 
tage of  a  wheel  over  the  ordinary  arms  is  that  tlie  pull  is 
always  the  same,  no  matter  how  far  over  the  rudder  may 
be. 

The  advantages  of  the  old-fashioned  leg-o'-mutton  sail 
in  the  important  points  of  light  weight  aloft  and  simplicity 
of  rig,  were  so  apparent  that  it  is  not  siu-prising  to  find 
that  while  models  and  rigs  were  at  first  imj)orted  from 
England,  the  lug  and  gunter  sails  were  soon  discarded  in 
America  for  the  less  complicated  leg-o'mutton,  which, 
about  ten  years  since,  was  the  sail  in  general  use  here  by 
canoeists.  Both  the  lug  and  gunter  required  some  care 
in  rigging  and  more  blocks  and  gear,  but  the  plain  tri- 
angular sail  of  the  sharpie  was  easily  made,  after  a 
fashion,  and  rigged  to  match,  by  any  tyro.  Up  to  1878 
this  sail  was  used  on  almost  all  canoes  in  the  United 
States,  but  as  racing  became  more  popular  the  lug  was 
introduced  and  soon  drove  it  out.  The  faults  of  the  leg- 
o'-mutton  sail  were  that  the  mast  must  be  very  long  in 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  193 

order  to  obtain  the  area,  and  the  sail  was  difficult  to  hoist 
and  lower  owing  to  the  number  of  mast  rings  required, 
making  it  a  slow  and  uncertain  matter  to  reef  or  shake 
out.  A  mast  of  14  to  15ft. ,  such  as  was  necessary  for  a 
65ft.  sail,  was  a  very  troublesome  stick  in  a  narrow  boat, 
even  if  of  bamboo.  Naturally  the  idea  of  cutting  this 
stick  in  half  suggested  itself,  leading  to  the  sliding  gun- 
ter  rig,  but  a  mechanical  difficulty  was  met  that  caused 
the  gunter  sail  to  be  abandoned  by  all.  It  was  found  to 
be  impossible  to  rig  a  gear  of  any  sort  that  would  slide 
on  the  lower  mast  and  carry  the  topmast  without  either 
binding  and  jamming  fast,  or  on  the  other  hand,  being  so 
loose  when  hoisted  as  to  allow  the  topmast  to  wobble  to 
an  unbearable  degree.  Brass  slides  of  various  forms  were 
tried,  as  well  as  other  devices,  but  besides  the  weight 
aloft,  they  never  could  be  relied  on  to  hoist  and  lower 
quickly,  while  they  permitted  a  great  amount  of  play  in 
the  topmast. 

The  sail  here  shown  was  designed  last  year  by  Mr.  C. 
J.  Stevens,  New  York  C.  C,  for  the  canoe  Tramp,  and  is 
also  fitted  to  the  canoe  shown  on  Plate  XXX.  The  sail 
plan  on  Plate  XXIX.  shows  the  rig  adapted  to  the  loft.  X 
30in.  canoe  on  Plate  XXVII.  Curiously  enough  this  new 
sail,  a  combination  of  the  leg-o'-muttton  and  sliding  gun- 
ter. was  evolved  directly  from  the  balance  lug.  The  first 
step  was  to  sling  the  ordinary  round-headed  balance  lug 
sail  abaft  the  mast,  of  course  retaining  the  peak,  the  yard 
being  very  much  rounded,  as  shown  in  the  sail  plan  of 
the  Forest  and  Stream,  cruiser.  This  made  a  very  good 
sail,  but  it  was  evident  that  the  peak,  falling  more  or  less 
to  leeward  and  out  of  the  plane  of  the  masts,  was  a 
decided  disadvantage  in  so  narrow  a  boat  on  the  score  of 
stability,  whatever  advantage  it  might  possess  to  wind- 
ward over  a  jib-headed  sail.  The  next  step  then  was  to 
cut  away  entirely  the  angle  between  lulf  and  head,  the 
throat  of  the  sail,  substituting  a  moderate  curve  to  the 
upper  part. 

The  most  serious  difficulty  was  the  hoisting  and  hold- 


194  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

ing  in  place  of  the  yard,  now  transformed  into  a  sort  of 
topmast;  but  after  a  number  of  trials  a  method  was  de- 
vised that  is  at  once  effective  and  ingenious.  The  object 
sought  was  to  bind  both  mast  and  yai'd  so  firmly  together 
tliat  they  became  for  the  time  a  single  stick,  avoiding  the 
play  of  the  gunter,  as  well  as  the  weak  construction  due 
to  the  short  gunter  brass  with  its  direct  strain  on  the 
m  sthead.  The  details  of  the  present  plan  are  shown  in 
the  smaller  drawing.  On  the  mast  two  cheek  blocks  are 
securely  lashed,  leading  fore  and  aft.  On  the  yard  are 
two  similar  blocks,  also  leading  fore  and  aft.  The  halliard 
is  double;  a  knot  is  first  tied  in  the  center,  then  the  two 
ends  are  rove,  one  through  each  of  the  blocks  on  yard 
and  then  through  corresponding  block  on  mast,  the  bight 
of  the  line  with  the  knot,  c,  being  around  the  fore  side  of 
mast.  It  is  evident  that  a  pull  on  the  two  parts  of  the 
halliard  will  jam  the  spar  firmly  against  the  mast,  prac- 
tically making  one  spar  of  the  two,  as  each  braces  the 
other.  The  size  of  each  is  so  proportioned  that  the 
strength  of  the  2in.  mast  is  retained  all  the  way  to  the 
masthead,  the  yard  growing  larger  as  the  mast  grows 
smaller.  The  halliard  was  first  used  without  the  knot,  c, 
but  it  was  found  that  in  hoisting  the  bight  was  held  close 
to  the  mast,  thus  jumming  at  times.  The  knot  was  then 
tied  in  so  that  the  halliard  could  not  unreeve  through 
either  block;  and  now  in  hoisting  the  strain  is  only  on  one 
halliard  until  the  yard  is  fairly  in  place,  then  both  halliards 
are  set  taut  and  belaj-ed.  The  canoeist  takes  both  halliards 
in  hand,  leaving  one  with  about  6in.  slack,  then  hoists 
away,  the  yard  rising  easily,  as  the  bight  is  entirely  loose 
around  the  mast.  When  well  up,  a  pull  on  both  halliards, 
a  a,  sets  all  snug.  The  result  is  the  same  when  set  at  the 
masthead  for  full  sail,  or  lower  for  a  reef.  The  boom  and 
battens  are  fitted  with  jaws  of  the  size  and  shape  shown 
in  the  smaller  cut,  which  represents  the  full  size  of  the 
pattern,  the  casting  being  a  little  smaller  when  finished. 
The  battens  are  round  in  section,  and  each  is  ferruled 
with  brass,  the  jaw  then  being  driven  in.    To  hold  the 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  195 

jaw  to  the  mast  a  hollow  brass  curtain  ring  is  used, 
lashed  to  the  batten  just  on  top  of  the  jaw.  This  allows 
the  boom  or  batten  to  be  folded  close  up  against  iho  mast 
in  stowing.  The  fourth  batten  may  not  be  needed  if  the 
sail  is  proi>erly  cut;  in  any  case  it  has  no  jaw.  but  is 
merely  slipped  into  a  pocket.  The  halliards,  A  A,  lead 
from  the  masthead  to  blocks  at  deck  on  each  eide  of  mast, 
thence  to  a  cleat  near  the  well.  They  may  be  led  through 
a  double  block  near  the  stem,  thus  acting  as  a  forestay, 
provided  the  mast  is  not  too  far  forward;  but  the  present 
practice  is  to  place  the  mast  from  9  to  12in.  from  stem, 
in  some  cases  still  closer.  A  tack  line  is  used  to  hold  the 
boom  down,  being  led  through  a  block  at  deck  abaft  the 
mast.  The  toppinglift  is  made  fast  to  an  eye  at  mast- 
head, leading  down  each  side  of  the  sail,  and  spliced 
together  just  below  the  sheet  block.  A  small  jaw  of 
brass  is  lashed  to  the  boom,  and  the  bight  of  the  topping- 
lift  is  slipped  into  it,  holding  the  boom  at  the  proper 
height.  By  casting  the  lift  ofif  from  this  jaw  and  allow- 
ing it  to  swing  forward  the  boom  will  drop  on  deck,  and 
by  leaving  it  in  the  jaw  and  hauling  in,  belaying  on  the 
small  cleat  or  boom,  the  latter  may  be  topped  up  as  far  as 
desirable.  No  reefing  gear  is  shown,  but  any  of  the  well- 
known  varieties  may  be  fitted  as  in  a  lug  or  Mohican  sail, 
two  reefs  being  sufficient. 

The  mizen  may  be  rigged  precisely  as  the  mainsail, 
but  with  the  small  area  now  carried  aft  a  sail  of  the 
same  shape,  but  not  fitted  to  lower,  -svill  answer  per- 
fectly. The  luff  is  laced  to  the  mast,  one  batten  is  fitted 
as  shown,  and  a  brail,  in  two  parts,  one  on  each  side  of 
the  sail,  and  leading  through  small  buUseyes  lashed  to 
the  mast,  the  two  parts  spliced  into  one  and  belaying 
on  the  cleat  at  foot,  serves  to  stow  the  sail  snugly  for 
running  free  or  paddling.  Though  rather  long,  the  mast 
and  sail  weigh  but  little,  and  may  be  readily  unstepped 
and  stowed  on  deck,  a  smaller  mizen  being  substituted. 
The  sprit  mizen  used  on  the  Pearl  will  answer  well  for 
this  latter,  the  spars  being  quite  short.    It  is  fitted  as 


19G  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

shown  in  the  dotted  lines,  with  one  batten,  there  being 
rings  on  leech  and  head.  A  brail  is  rove  through  these 
riiigs  in  two  parts,  one  and  fast  to  boom  and  up  the 
leech,  thence  through  a  bullseye  on  mast;  the  other  end 
fast  to  top  of  batten,  through  rings  on  head,  and  through 
same  bullseye  The  sail  may  be  reefed  by  hauling  the 
latter  part  until  the  batten  lies  close  to  mast,  or  by  a 
pull  on  both  parts  the  sail  is  brailed  up  snugly  against 
the  mast.  The  spars  may  be  short  enough  to  allow  the 
rig  to  be  stowed  inside  the  well. 

The  spinaker  forms  a  most  important  feature  of  this 
rig,  as  the  mizen  is  stowed  when  down  wind  and  the 
spinaker  set,  the  canoe  running  much  steadier  than 
under  aftersail.  The  shape  is  shown  in  the  drawing  by 
the  broken  lines,  the  foot  being  greatly  roached  in  the 
curve  shown.  The  head  and  outer  angle  of  sail  are 
fitted  with  small  swivels,  in  case  of  a  turn  in  hoisting; 
the  halliard  leads  through  a  block  at  masthead,  one  end 
leading  through  a  block  at  deck,  the  other  hooking  into 
the  sling  of  sheet  block  when  not  in  use.  If  on  the 
wrong  side,  it  may  be  swung  around  in  front  of  the 
mast  before  snapping  to  head  of  sail.  The  sheet  or 
after  guy  is  fast  to  the  end,  and  a  snap  hook  on  the  latter 
hooks  into  an  eye  on  the  end  of  boom.  The  tack  leads 
through  a  screweye  on  deck  just  forward  of  the  mast, 
the  ends  leading  aft  on  each  sid:;  of  mast,  so  that  either 
may  be  bent  to  the  sail.  The  boom,  of  bamboo,  is  fitted 
with  an  eye  at  the  outer  end  and  a  small  jaw  on  the 
inner,  the  latter  shipping  in  a  brass  stud  in  the  deck  just 
abaft  the  mast.  The  sail  is  snapped  on  to  the  halliard 
and  hoisted,  the  tack  being  first  hooked  on;  the  outer 
angle  is  then  hooked  to  the  boom,  the  latter  shipped 
against  the  stud  on  deck  and  swung  forward,  the  sheet 
then  being  made  fast  and  the  tack  trimmed.  The  sail 
should  be  of  strong  light  linen  that  will  dry  quickly. 

To  complete  the  ordinary  outfit  for  cruising  and  racing 
an  intermediate  mainsail  of  about  two-thirds  the  size  of 
largest  sail  is  used,  and  sometimes  a  small  spinaker. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  197 

The  rig  for  a  large  canoe  will  include  a  racing  mainsail 
of  90ft.,  a  cruising  mainsail  of  about  50ft.,  a  racinsc  mizcn 
of  25ft.,  a  cruising  niizen  of  15ft.  and  two  spinakcrs  of 
60  and  45ft.  The  dimensions  of  spars  and  sails  for  such 
a  rig  aie  given  in  the  following  table,  the  spars  being 
much  lighter  than  any  now  in  use  on  canoes,  but  they 
are  all  a  little  larger  than  those  carried  on  the  Tramp,  a 
heavy  Pearl,  14x33,  for  the*  past  year;  and  if  of  good 
spi-uce  and  pi-operly  rigged,  will  be  amply  strong.  Tlie 
old  Guenn  carried  a  balance  lug  mainsail  of  105ft  and  a 
mizen  of  35ft.,  mast  15ft.  above  deck;  but  the  present 
canoe,  if  built  lightly  and  sailed  with  a  moderate  amount 
of  ballast,  should  prove  still  faster  under  the  rig  shown. 
The  weight  aloft  will  be  about  one-hclf  that  of  the  old 
rig.  consequently  the  boat  can  be  held  up  with  much  less 
ballast  and  the  crew  will  have  far  more  control  of  her. 
The  movement  now  is  in  the  direction  of  smaller  sails, 
and  experience  goes  to  shovv  that  a  boat  will  be  faster 
under  a  properly  proportioned  rig  of  moderate  dimensions 
than  under  a  heavy  outfit  of  spars  and  canvas,  that  must 
be  upheld  by  heavy  ballast  and  at  times  with  great 
difficulty: 

DIMENSIONS  OF  SPARS  AND    SAILS— CANOE  GUENN. 

Main.  Mizen. 


Racing. 

Mast,  from  stem 11* 

deck  to  truck 11  00 

Boom 10  00 

Yard 10  06 

Battens 9  01, 7  10,  fl  0,  C  00 

Spiuaker  boom 8  00 

foot 10  00 

luff 0  10 

head 10  01 

leech  17  06 

Tack  to  peak 16  11 

Clew  to  throat 10  11 

Area,  square  feet £0  CO 

Spinaker  area,  sq.  ft 61  00 

fort 1)00 

luff 10  03 

leech 13  04 

round  of  foot...  1  06 
Battens  apart  3  03,  2  04* 


Cruising. 

Raring.  ( 

!:!ruisin( 

11' 

12  00 

12  00 

8  09 

9  06 

5  02 

8  04 

5  07 

5  CO 

8  04 

6  08,  5  02,  5  02 

503 

500 

6  08 

7  11 

5  03 

408 

5  or, 

900 

4  10 

800 

2  00 

13  10 

9  04 

404 

13  05 

8  08 

S3  00 

25  00 

15  00 

48  00 

800 

8  01 

10  06 

1  03 

208 

198 


PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 


The  90ft.  sail  lias  three  battens,  55ft.  sail  has  two.  Battens  are 
spaced  IJ^^in.  further  apart  on  leech  than  on  luff. 

Racing  mast  2in.  at  deck  and  up  to  second  batten,  thence  taper- 
ing to  lin.  at  head.  Mizenmast  l%in.  at  deck,  tapering  to  ?^in.  at 
head. 

Main  boom  IJ^in.  diameter  for  middle  third  of  length,  thence 
tapering  to  ^n.  at  ends. 

Yard  lin.  diameter  for  about  middle  third,  thence  tapering  to 
J^in-  at  ends.  Battens  round,  J^n.  at  fore  and  %iE.  at  after  ends, 
upper  battens  %in.  tliroughout.  Mizenboom  %in.  at  middle, 
tapering  to  J^in.  forward  and  9^in.  aft.,  batten  ^in.  Spinaker 
boom,  bamboo,  about  %in.  at  fore  and  %in.  at  after  end''.  The 
spars  for  cruising  rig  will  be  a  little  smaller  throughout.  The 
mizenmast  will  fit  forward  tube,  but  will  be  reduced  in  size  from 
deck  up. 

A  method  of  leading  the  reeflines,  devised  by  Mr.  O.  F. 
Coe,  of  Jersey  City,  is  shown  in  the  following  eketch. 


Vertical  pockets  are  sewn  to  the  sail  through  which  the 
lines  are  run,  thus  lessening  the  danger  of  fouling.  Mr. 
W.  Baden-Powell  has  used  the  same  idea  for  some  time, 
but  with  several  small  brass  rings  sewn  in  the  pockets  to 
keep  them  extended  and  so  allow  the  lines  to  run  freely. 
The  drop  rudder  is  now  in  general  use  for  cruising  as 
well  as  racing  and  is  made  after  several  patterns  by  the 
different  builders.     One  of  the  best  is  that  shown  in 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  199 

Plate  XXIX.,  made  by  Cbas.  Piepenbrink,  of  Albany, 
New  York.  The  stock  is  a  brass  tube,  A,  fin.  external 
diameter,  into  which  two  side  pieces  of  -|\'in.  sheet 
brass,  C,  C,  ai"e  inserted  and  brazed,  sufficient  space 
being  left  for  the  blade  B  to  work  freely  between  them. 
The  blade,  of  Ajin-  hard  brass,  turns  on  the  flat-headed 
bolt,  F.  and  is  held  more  firmly  by  the  lugs  E  E,  riveted 
to  each  side  and  projecting  over  the  side  plates.  The 
rudder  yoke,  D,  is  of  cast  bras?,  very  neatly  proportioned 
in  its  design,  with  eyes  at  each  end  for  the  rudder  lines. 
It  is  held  on  the  stock,  A,  by  a  set  screw,  T,  passing 
through  A,  and  in  the  upper  end  of  the  latter  is  an  eye 
through  which  the  lifting  line,  K,  is  rove.  The  rudder  is 
hung  by  t%vo  braces,  the  lower  one,  H,  forming  a  scag- 
band  and  at  the  same  time  having  a  hole  for  the  |in.  pin 
in  the  lower  ead  of  A.  The  upper  brace,  G,  is  bored  out 
to  |in.  diameter  inside,  with  a  slot  at  the  back  to  allow 
the  side  pieces  to  cntei.  On  the  side  of  A  is  a  small  stud, 
I,  which  also  passes  through  the  slot,  and  when  the  rud- 
der is  in  j)osition  prevents  it  from  rising.  Hard  brass 
only  should  be  used  for  the  side  plates  and  blade,  as  great 
stiffness  is  necessary. 

On  plate  XXIX.a  are  shown  the  latest  fittings  used  on 
American  canoes.  The  upper  cleat,  invented  by  Mr.  Paul 
Butler,  is  very  handy  for  main  sheet,  a  turn  being  taken 
under  the  hooked  end.  A  somewhat  smaller  cleat,  de- 
vised by  Mr.  E.  H.  Barney,  is  also  shown.  The  cleat 
board  introduced  from  the  English  canoes,  is  now  gener- 
ally used.  It  is  a  piece  of  mahogany  3  or  4in.  wide  and 
long  enough  to  extend  across  the  cockpit,  to  which  it  is 
secured  by  the  hook  screws  shown,  which  allow  it  to  be 
shifted  to  any  point.  In  this  board  are  belaying  pins,  as 
showm,  or  cleats  are  screwed  to  it,  and  sometimes  a  trav- 
eler uf  :iin.  wire  is  added.  In  removing  the  sail  all  lines 
are  left  on  their  respective  cleats,  the  board  being  detached 
and  made  up  with  thr  sail.  The  tiller  shown  was  fitted 
to  the  Blanche  by  Mr.  Butler,  the  ends  extending  across 
the  boat  so  that  one  is  within  easy  reach  when  the  crew 


300  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

is  leaning  out  to  windward.  The  ordinary  tiller  may  also 
be  added,  as  shown  by  the  dotted  lines.  Two  varieties  of 
lifting  handles  are  also  shown,  the  one  devised  by  Mr. 
Barney  for  his  1887  canoe,  Lacowsic,  being  of  brass,  set 
into  the  stem  and  stern  of  the  canoe,  wliich  are  cut  away 
to  receive  them.  The  other  handle,  a  piece  of  stout  wire 
with  a  short  length  of  rubber  tube  for  the  hand  to  grasp, 
is  used  on  most  of  the  Mohican  canoes,  being  permanently 
attached  one  to  eac/.t  end.  The  mast  and  jaw  shown  arc 
those  of  Pecowsic  and  Lacowsic,  tha  tube  is  but  Sin.  deep 
and  the  lower  end  of  mast  is  fitted  with  a  long  taper  fer- 
rule to  fit  it  very  neatly.  The  jaw  is  of  brass,  with  a 
socket  for  the  boom  end,  and  is  hung  by  a  pin  through 
the  mast,  allowing  the  boom  to  be  folded  close  against 
the  latter.  The  mast  turns  in  the  socket,  the  boom  being 
immovably  fixed  to  it.  The  mast  lacing  shown  is  de- 
scribed with  the  sail  plan  of  Notus,  Plate  XXVI. 


Plate  XXX.— 16x29  Racing  Canoe.  Designed  by  W. 
P.  Stephens. 
This  canoe  was  designed  early  in  1888  by  the  author  as 
a  racing  craft,  to  be  sailed  without  ballast;  the  displace- 
ment being  limited  to  not  over  2T51bs.  The  aim  has  been 
to  preserve  a  good  area  of  load  water  plane  and  breadth, 
without  too  much  displacement  on  the  one  hand  or  the 
sharp  V  sections  of  some  "no  ballast"  canoes  on  the  other, 
and  to  make  a  canoe  that  should  be  at  the  same  time  fast 
and  yet  fairly  comfortable  to  sail.  The  design  could 
easily  be  adapted  to  a  larger  canoe,  say  lGx30,  to  carry 
moderate  ballast,  by  widening  after  planking,  and  build- 
ing up  the  sheer  line  an  inch  or  a  little  over,  making  at 
the  same  time  the  displacement  greater  by  lOOlbs.  and 
the  draft  nearly  an  inch  more.  The  canoe  has  been  com- 
pleted and  will  be  raced  during  tlie  season  of  1888.  She 
will  carry  the  sails  shown  in  Plate  XXIX. ,  with  a  very 
light  plate  board  and  brass  drop  rudder.  As  she  is  de- 
signed solely  for  sailing  the  well  will  not  be  as  shown, 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING. 


201 


but  simply  a  circle  of  ISin.  diameter,  closed  by  a  water- 
tight canvas  bag  made  fast  around  the  coaming,  so  that 
in  the  event  of  a  complete  capsize  no  water  can  get  below. 
The  deadwcod  at  the  ends  has  been  cut  away  far  more 
than  is  com -non,  but  the  displacement  is  somewhat  re- 
duced thereby,  moro  being  allowed  in  the  middle  of  the 
boat:  the  immersed  surface  is  much  reduced;  and  easy 
turning  power  insured,  the  full  length  on  waterline  being 
at  the  same  time  retained. 

TABLS  OF  OFFSETS,  16X29  lLA.CINa  CANOE. 


g 

Heights.       > 

HAiiF  Bbbadths. 

5 
GQ 

DeckRablKeel. 

1 

Deck 

lOin. 

8in. 

Gin. 

41n. 

2in. 

Rabbet 

0 

1    231 

0   0' 
8» 

0« 

2' 

0» 
2» 

0« 
2' 

1 

0* 

1.. 

V 

2» 

P 

0« 

2.. 

1    1*       1* 

1« 

1      6» 

5» 

« 

4' 

2' 

1' 

0« 

3.. 

1    0»       0" 

0» 

8* 

7'        7" 

6» 

V 

OS 

1' 

4.. 

irj    0^ 

10» 

10    1      9» 

8» 

6« 

4» 

\* 

>i 

ii« 

11' 
1    1' 

1    1 

11' 
1    0« 

10' 
11* 

8« 

5» 
11 

I* 

6.. 

10' 

1* 

7 

10= 

1    2 
1    2» 

1    1' 
1    2» 

1    1* 

1    2a 

1    0' 
1    1» 

1    0» 

8» 
9* 

14 

8.. 

• 

1* 

0 

10' 
10 

1   t* 
1    2 

1    2* 
1    2 

1    2» 
1    2" 

1    2' 
1    V 

1    0' 
1    0* 

9« 
9« 

14 

10.. 

0» 

\* 

11.. 

10' 

0» 

0' 

1    V 

1    1' 

1    1» 

1    1' 

11* 

7» 

1" 

12.. 

10* 

0« 

0« 

1    0« 

I    0« 

1    0» 

1    IP 

9* 

5' 

1' 

18.. 

10» 

1» 

1 

u 

10* 

9' 

i      ** 

6. 

2» 

c 

14.. 

11« 

2 

1« 

8' 

9« 

6« 

1 
6a 

3« 

0« 

0» 

15.. 

1    0' 

V 

«• 

4« 

8« 

8 

2' 

1' 

0« 

16. 

1  1 

B 

0' 

0' 

0' 

0' 

0' 

0« 

803  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

The  dimensions  are: 

Length 16ft. 

Beam,  extreme 29in. 

l.w.l 25%in. 

Draft 4J^in. 

Freeboard Oin. 

Sheer,  bow 5^in- 

stern Sin. 

Displacement 256.751bs. 

Area  midship  section 48  sq.  f  t. 

Displacement  per  in.  immersion 1091bs. 

at  Sin.  draft,  abont 3701bs. 

Area  lateral  plane 4.37  sq.  ft. 

centerboard 2.17  sq.  ft. 

Total 6.54  sq.  ft. 

L.W.  plane 19. CO  sq.  ft. 

C.  B.  from  stem 8ft. 

C.  L.  R.  from  stem 7ft.  lOMin. 

inc.  board 7ft.  Sin. 


Plates  XXXI.  and  XXXII.— 18x36  Canoe  "Ione." 

The  canoe  lone  was  designed  in  1887  by  Mr.  E.  T.  Bird- 
sail,  of  New  York,  and  built  by  Bradley,  of  Watertown, 
N.  Y. 

She  is  18ft.  long  by  3ft,  wide  and  is  smooth  built,  of 
iin.  plank;  keel  of  wliite  oak  l^in.  thick;  stem  and  stem- 
post  of  hackmatack:  planking  of  cedar;  deck,  mahogany; 
coaming,  walnut,  flared;  Radix  board  of  largest  size, 
which  is  rather  small  for  a  boat  of  this  length.  She 
carries  about  125ft.  of  sail  and  lOOlbs.  of  lead  cast  to  fit 
close  to  the  garboards,  no  shifting  ballast.  With  this 
lead  in  and  sail  set,  one  can  sit  outside  of  the  coaming  on 
the  deck  to  leeward  and  not  get  wet,  the  sails  and  spars 
weighing  501bs.,  and  the  usual  crew  over  1501b?.  In  a 
beam  wind  in  smooth  water  with  full  sail  and  two  per- 
sons weighing  together  3401bs.  hanging  out  to  windward 
she  has  beaten  catboats  of  equal  waterline  length.  When 
driven  in  heavy  weather  with  the  above  load  to  wind- 
ward and  reefed  she  is  quite  wet,  as  she  goes  through  the 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING. 


203 


waves  when  they  are  short  and  choppy,  and  the  crests 
thus  cut  up  come  aboard. 

In  common  with  all  narrow  and  shoal  boats  she  rolls 
when  going  to  leeward  in  a  seaway.  The  under-water 
body  conforms  to  the  wave  form  curve  of  areas,  other 
recognized  principles  of  design  as  set  forth  by  Dixon 
Kemp  being  adapted  to  this  special  case  as  far  as  possible. 

TABIiB  OF    OFFSiaJS— CANOE  lONB. 


i 

Dkpths.         i 

HAIiF  Bbbadths. 

9 

1 

■^ 

GQ 

Deck 

Rab- 
bet. 

Keel 

Deck 

« 

10 

8 

6 

4 

2 

Keel. 

0 

2 
1  10» 

0» 
8« 

fore  side  of  stem 
0»      0»     o»      01 

0> 

0' 
0* 

1.. 

2 

1« 

V 

2« 

2 

1* 

0< 

2.. 

1    8« 

1« 

1" 

.    7> 

5» 

5 

4» 

8« 

a» 

0« 

0» 

3.. 

1     78 

1* 

1 

9> 

8» 

7» 

6» 

5* 

8« 

1* 

0" 

4.. 

1    6» 

1 

0» 

10" 

11 

10« 

9» 

7. 

5» 

2» 

1 

5.. 

1    4» 

1 

0* 

12« 

1    1« 

1    0» 

11* 

10> 

8 

4» 

1» 

6.. 

1    3» 

0» 

0« 

13« 

1    3» 

1    2« 

11» 

1    0» 

10 

6 

2» 

7.. 

1    2* 

0» 

0> 

1  4» 

1    4» 

1    3' 

13« 

1    2 

1 

7' 

2« 

8.. 

1   r 

0* 

1  5» 

1    5' 

1    4« 

1  4« 

1  a* 

1    I* 

10 

2» 

9.. 

1    \* 

0* 

1  5« 

1    5» 

1    5» 

15 

1    4> 

1    2« 

11  > 

2« 

10.. 

1    1» 

0< 

1  6 

1    5' 

1    5* 

IS" 

1  46 

1    8» 

11« 

2« 

U.. 

1    1» 

0» 

0' 

1  S* 

1    5» 

1    5" 

1  5 

1    4« 

1    2« 

11' 

2« 

12.. 

1    2 

0^ 

0« 

i'6- 

1    51 

1    4' 

1  4» 

1    3» 

1    1« 

93 

2 

13.. 

1    V 

1» 

0» 

1  4» 

1    4» 

1    8« 

13 

1    1» 

11 

B» 

1« 

14.. 

1    8' 

1» 

0" 

12» 

1     28 

1    1' 

1  1 

11» 

8« 

3" 

1« 

15.. 

1    5 

1» 

1' 

1  0* 

11» 

11 

9' 

7. 

5 

1» 

OT 

16.. 

1    6» 

V 

V 

9» 

7" 

6* 

5* 

4 

2* 

0» 

0» 

17.. 

1  r" 

41 

1» 

5< 

ff" 

2» 

2 

1" 

0> 

0" 

Oa 

18.. 

110 

afte 

2 

r  side 
1     0' 

of  8t( 

i      0' 

jrnpo 
i     0' 

at 
0« 

0' 

0' 

0» 

304  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

During  the  season  of  1887  she  was  sailed  with  the  ballast 
and  sails  shown  in  Plate  XXXII.,  with  either  one  or  two 
as  crew,  but  a  jib  of  30ft.  will  be  added,  cutting  the 
present  mainsail  down  the  line  of  the  mast,  thus  making 
it  a  gaff  sail  all  abaft  the  mast,  the  bowsprit  to  be  4ft. 
outboard  and  the  jib  to  trim  aft  of  the  mast  and  be  capa- 
ble of  being  set  and  taken  in  from  the  cockpit.  When 
sailing  alone,  in  addition  four  251b.  pigs  of  lead  cast  in 
the  form  of  a  truncated  pyramid  and  covered  with  can- 
vas and  roped,  will  be  carried  to  be  shifted  to  windward, 
lone  has  no  watertight  compartments,  but  her  owner 
proposes  to  fit  them  in  her.  The  sails  are  of  Polhemus 
twill,  about  4oz.  A  Bib.  Chester  anchor  and  25  fathoms 
of  12-thread  manilla  has  held  on  in  15  fathoms  of  water 
with  a  good  jump  on,  a  lee-going  tide  and  two  15x30 
canoes  fastened  to  mizenmast.  All  the  sailing  of  the 
above  boat  has  been  done  in  Newark  and  New  York  bays 
and  around  Sandy  Hcok  and  Staten  Island.  The  yards 
are  egg-shaped  and  the  booms  are  square  to  facilitate  the 
reefing  gear. 


CANOE  YAWLS. 


The  success  of  the  earlier  canoes  called  the  attention  of 
boating  men  generally  to  the  many  good  points  of  this 
type  of  boat,  with  the  result  that  a  number  of  large  craft 
have  been  built  much  on  the  lines  of  the  ordinary  sailing 
canoe.  All  of  the  earlier  boats  were  yawl  rigged,  some 
like  a  canoe  and  others  with  a  jib,  and  hence  the  name 
"canoe  yawl"  was  given  to  distinguish  them  from  the 
small  canoe.  Within  the  past  three  years  the  number  of 
these  boats  has  greatly  increased  in  England,  while  they 
are  also  becoming  better  known  and  liked  in  America,  and 
some  of  them  make  very  fine  cruising  craft,  being  far  more 
able  and  powerful  than  the  canoe.  They  are  built  with 
centerboard  or  keel,  generally  the  latter,  and  are  rigged 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  205 

with  the  main  and  mizen,  like  the  canoe,  or  as  cutters, 
sloops  and  yawls,  the  latter  being  perhaps  the  best  for 
single-hand  cruising.  Some  of  them,  such  as  the  Cassy, 
the  Water  Rat  and  the  Viper,  have  made  their  reputations 
as  cruisers  by  several  seasons  of  constant  work  in  open 
waters.  They  are  well  fitted  for  bays  and  arms  of  the 
sea  where  the  canoe  cannot  safely  and  comfortably  be  used; 
their  shape,  that  of  the  whale  boat  and  surf  boat,  is  one 
of  the  best  for  a  sea  boat,  and  they  are  less  costly  to  build 
than  the  small  counter-stemed  yacht,  while  superior  to 
the  square-stemed  boat. 


Plate  XXXII.— "Annie,"  Centerboaed  Canoe  Yawl. 

This  boat  was  designed  to  have  a  light  draft  and  to  be 
light  enough  to  house  easily,  so  a  fixed  keel  and  ballast 
were  dispensed  with.  Her  leading  dimensions  are: 
Length,  18ft.;  beam,  5ft.  The  drawings  show  a  slightly 
smaller  boat,  but  a  scale  was  used  in  building  which 
brought  the  beam  up  to  oft.  Annie  was  built  at  Oswego, 
N.  Y.,  for  Mr.  Geo.  N.  Burt,  by  Joseph  Henley,  who  made 
the  model  from  the  owner's  instructions.  She  has  been 
used  on  Lake  Ontario  with  great  success,  proving  fast  as 
well  as  safe  and  comfortable  for  pleasiu-e  sailing.  As 
the  hull  is  light  it  can  readily  be  hauled  in  or  out  of  the 
house  by  one  man,  quite  a  consideration  in  some  locali- 
ties. Annie  is  planked  with  ,\\n.  cedar  and  white  pine 
in  alternate  streaks,  tlie  timbers  being  Jx^in.,  spaced 
4in.  The  deck  is  of  cedar,  on  chestnut  carlins  Ixlfin., 
spaced  6in.  Tiie  cockpit  is  7ft.  2in.  long  and  3ft.  5in. 
wide,  with  a  3in,  coaming  of  butternut.  The  centerboard 
trunk  is  3ft.  long  and  the  board  is  of  boiler  plate,  261bs. 
The  total  weight  of  hull  is  SOOIbs.  The  ballast  consists  of 
six  bricks  of  lead,  251bs.  each,  stowed  in  the  space  abreast 
the  trunk,  besides  which  two  bags  of  sand,  oOlbs.  each, 
are  carried  in  the  well.  The  lead  bricks  are  covered  with 
canvas  and  have  rope  handles,  so  they  are  quickly  carried 


206  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

in  or  out.  The  spaces  in  each  end  are  filled  with  air 
tanks,  one  being  placed  also  on  each  side  of  the  well 
as  shown.  No  oars  are  used,  a  paddle  being  carried  for 
calm  weather,  but  the  boat  is  expected  to  sail  whenever 
there  is  any  wind.  She  is  rigged  with  a  boom  and  gaff 
mainsail  and  a  sprit  mizen.  The  mainmast  is  17ft.,  heel 
to  head,  and  Sin.  in  diameter;  mainboom  13ft.,  gaff  3ft. 
4in.,  mizenmast  lift.,  and  2iin.  in  diameter,  boom  5ft. 
The  hoist  of  ma  insail  is  12ft.  4in. ,  and  of  mizen  8ft.  The 
main  gaff  has  peak  and  throat  halliards,  the  former  with 
double  block  on  mast  and  single  on  gaff.  Both  halliards 
lead  through  f  airleaders  on  deck  to  the  after  end  of  trunk, 
where  they  belay.  The  rudder  is  fitted  with  long  steering 
lines.  There  are  no  fixed  thwarts,  but  movable  seats  are 
used.  A  spinaker  is  carried  on  the  mainmast,  the  boom 
being  jointed  for  stowage.  She  has  been  through  some 
bad  weather  on  Lake  Ontario,  proving  herself  a  fine 
rough-water  boat,  riding  lightly  and  going  well  to  wind- 
ward in  rough  water.  In  ordinary  sailing  she  is  very 
fast,  and  with  two  or  three  persons  aboard  carries  her 
sail  easily. 


Plate   XXXIII.— "  Gassy." 

Length 14ft. 

Beam  3ft,    4in. 

Depth  midships 1ft.    4iii. 

Sheer,  how HJ^in. 

stem Sin. 

Bow  to  after  side  of  tabernacle 3ft. 

fore  end  of  trunk 4ft. 

after  end  of  trunk 7ft. 

after  end  of  well lift.    6in. 

rowlocks Oft.    6in. 

Area,  mainsail — racing 120  sq.  ft. 

m.ainsail — cruising 80-70  Eq.  ft, 

mizen 15  sq.  ft. 

Length  of  tabernacle ISin. 

oars 8ft. 

Width  of  rudder lit.    6in. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  207 

The  canoe  yawl  Cassy  was  designed  and  built  by  Mr.  G. 
F.  Holmes,  for  use  on  the  Humber  River.  She  is  fitted 
with  the  tal)ernacle  and  centerboard  devised  by  Mr.  Tred- 
wen,  the  latter  of  TOlbs.  being  all  the  ballast  used  with 
cruising  rig,  but  sandbags  are  carried  in  racing,  about 
lOOlbs.  being  used.  The  forward  thwart  can  be  placed 
Sin.  below  the  gunwale  for  rowing,  or  about  Gin.  above  the 
bottom  for  sailing.  The  rig  includes  two  balance  lugs  as 
in  a  canoe,  with  a  deck  tiller. 

The  smaller  cut  is  described  on  page  23. 


Plate  XXXIV.— "Vital  Spark." 

The  Vital  Spark  is  of  canoe  model,  18ft.  long,  5ft.  beam, 
2ft.  2in.  draft.  She  is  carvel  built,  with  fin.  planking, 
keel  sided  3^  at  middle,  If  at  ends,  with  4|cwt.  of  lead 
underneath,  and  an  equal  amount  of  lead  inside. 

The  saQ  plan  is  that  of  a  similar  boat,  the  Viper, 
whose  sheer  plan  and  rig  are  show-n  in  the  drawing;  she 
is  20ft.  long,  beam  5ft.  Sin. ,  depth  to  gunwale  amidships, 
2ft.  Gin.  Deck  has  a  crown  of  5in. ,  and  is  of  light  wood 
covered  with  canvas.  Her  keel  has  19c  wt.,  2qrs.,  IDlbs. 
of  lead,  with  2c wt.,  Iqr.,  181bs.  inside,  and  an  iron  keel- 
son of  751bs.  The  depth  of  keel  is  1ft.  9in.,  and  the 
total  depth  3ft.  4in. 

The  rig  is  a  convenient  one  for  small  boats,  as  jib  and 
mizen  may  be  used  together  in  strong  winds,  the  mainsail 
being  stowed.  The  Viper,  as  shown,  carries  a  staysail  as 
well  as  a  jib,  and  a  small  gaff  trysaU. 


308  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

Plate  XXXV.— Sail  Plan  of  Canoe  Yawl. 

The  term  "yawl"  applied  to  a  cutter-rigged  boat  is  an 
anomaly,  but  the  type  of  boat  in  question  is  now  com- 
monly known  as  the  "canoe  yawl,"  from  its  derivation 
directly  from  the  canoe  and  the  fact  that  it  is  almost 
invaiiably  yawl  rigged.  The  boat  shown  in  Plate  XXXV. 
was  built  from  the  lines  of  the  Vital  Spark,  Plate 
XXXIV.,  but  was  rigged  as  a  cutter.  Her  dimensions 
are  as  follows: 

Length  on  deck 18ft.    4in. 

Beam 5ft. 

Draft 2ft.    2in. 

Freeb:ard 1ft.     - 

Cockpit 7ft.6in.x4ft. 

Lead  keel 8.^0  pounds. 

Ballast  inside,  iron 250  pounds. 

Planking %in. 

Mast,  from  fore  side  of  stem 6ft.  lOin. 

Mast,  deck  to  hounds. 14ft.    Sin. 

Mast,  deck  to  truck 18ft.    9in. 

Mast,  diameter  at  deck i\a. 

Bowsprit,  outboard 6ft. 

Bowsprit,  diameter  at  stem Sin. 

Mainboom 15ft. 

Mainboom,  diameter. —  2i^in. 

Gaff  (oval,  2Mxl}4in) Oft.    Gin. 

Center  of  lateral  resistance  aft  center  of  loadline. . .  lOin. 

Center  of  effort  forward  of  center  of  loadline 5in. 

Center  of  effort  above  loadline 6ft.    4in. 

SAIL  AREA. 

Foot.  Luff.  Leech.  Head.  Area. 

Mainsail. 13.9  11.0  17.8          8.9  150  sq.ft. 

Staysail 8.2  13  0  11.3           ...  48sq.ft. 

Jib 8.0  15.8  11 .0           ...  45sq..f. 


Total  sail  area 233  sq.ft. 

Area  of  reefed  mainsail 80  sq.ft. 

With  the  above  amount  of  ballast  the  draft  is  a  little  less 
than  36in.,  but  in  cruising  the  crew  and  stores  would  bring 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  209 

her  to  her  loadline.  The  center  of  effort  of  reefed  mainsail 
and  whole  staysail  is  shown  at  C  E  3,  and  of  the  two  head- 
sails  at  C  E  3.  Many  wUl  object  to  the  double  rig,  but  in 
practice  it  h  found  to  work  excellently,  being  very  easily 
handled.  The  three  small  sails  are  easily  set  by  a  boy,  and 
the  headsail  sheets,  leading  to  the  rail  as  shown,  may  be 
reached  from  the  tiller.  In  tucking  they  are  readily  got 
down  with  one  hand  without  leaving  the  stick.  The  jib  is 
set  flying,  the  outhaul  being  an  endless  line,  with  asnaphook 
spliced  in.  The  hook  is  snapped  to  the  jib  tack,  the  sail 
partly  hoisted  and  hauled  out.  When  not  in  use  it  is  stowed 
in  a  bag  instead  of  being  furled  on  the  bowsprit.  No  jibstay 
being  needed,  the  bowsprit  is  fitted  with  a  tackle  on  the 
bobstay  and  is  easily  housed  entirely,  which  is  sometimes  a 
great  convenience  in  running  into  odd  places  as  such  small 
boats  constantly  do.  The  fittitgs  are  very  simple,  a  gammon 
iron  bolted  to  port  side  of  stem  head,  a  sampson  post  of 
2x6in.  oak  plank,  with  a  S^in.  hole  bored  through  for  the 
heel  of  the  round  bowsprit,  a  fid  of  Un.  round  iron,  and  two 
small  iron  blocks  for  the  bobstay  tackle,  one  hooking  into 
a  wire  rope  bobstay. 

In  some  cases  a  tabernacle  and  lowering  mast  are  desirable, 
and  with  a  forestay  both  are  easily  fitted.  The  tabernacle 
is  made  of  two  pieces,  B  B,  of  oak  l^x-i  inches,  stepped  in 
the  keel,  D,  and  coming  to  the  coaming  I  I.  The  mast  is 
stepped  in  the  block  C  under  the  fioor  K,  and  is  held  by  the 
forestay  and  two  shrouds,  all  fitted  with  turnbuckles.  A 
bar  F  of  lixjin.  iron  is  bolted  to  the  tabernacle's  sides,  one 
bolt  G  being  fitted  with  a  thumb  nut,  while  the  bar  is  slotted 
on  the  starboard  side  to  slip  over  the  neck  of  the  bolt,  turn- 
ing on  the  port  bolt.  When  G  is  loosened  the  bar  may  be 
turned  over  out  of  the  way  and  the  mast  lowered.  To  avoid 
cutting  away  the  floor  for  a  distance  aft  of  the  mast,  a  block 
of  oak,  E,  is  bolted  to  the  heel  of  the  latter,  on  the  after 
side.  When  the  mast  is  lowered  the  block  turns  on  the  edge 
L,  lifting  the  mast  out  of  the  step  as  it  falls  aft.  In  lower- 
ing, the  halliards  are  stopped  to  the  mast  out  of  the  way,  the 
jib  halliard  is  carried  forward  and  hooked  io  stem  head,  the 


210  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

bar  F  is  swung  back  and  the  mast  is  lowered  by  the  jib  hal- 
liard. The  shrouds  and  also  the  parrel  on  the  gaff  must 
both  be  slackened.  One  man  can  readily  lower  and  hoist 
the  mast  for  bridges,  etc. 

The  leads  of  the  various  lines  are  as  follows:  Throat  hal- 
liards to  cleat  d  on  starboard  side,  peak  to  cleat  b  on  same  ■ 
side  so  that  both  can  be  reached  at  the  same  time;  staysail 
halliards  on  cleat  c,  jib  on  clrmt  a,  toppinglift  on  cleat  e  on 
mast,  staysail  downhaul  knotted  in  hole  in  coaming  at/. 
The  mainsail  is  thus  set  from  the  starboard  and  the  head- 
sails  from  the  port  side  of  the  boom,  and  the  downhaul  is 
handy  to  the  staysail  halliard.  All  are  easily  reached  by 
leaving  the  tiller  for  a  moment,  and  one  man  can  manage  all 
lines.  The  boat  has  air  tanks  in  each  end,  a  large  cuddy 
forward  and  seats  in  the  cockpit.  For  cruising  the  seats 
would  fold  out,  making  a  bed  for  two  or  even  three  (4x7ft.), 
while  a  tent  would  be  pitched  over  the  boom.  The  yawl 
rig  would  answer  well  for  such  a  boat,  but  the  present  one 
has  proved  very  satisfactory  for  singlehanded  sailing  and 
cruising. 

The  following  descriptions  of  similar  boats  are  given  by 
correspondents  of  the  London  Field,  in  answer  to  inquiries: 

One  writer  says:  "I  have  just  launched  a  canoe  yawl, 
length  18ft.  by  5ft.  Sin.  beam,  and  a  draft  of  2ft.  aft,  and 
1ft.  Sin.  forward.  She  has  at  present  9c wt.  of  lead  and  iron 
ballast  inside,  but  requires  4cwt.  or  5c wt.  more.  She  is 
fitted  with  a  well  7ft.  6in.  iu  length,  the  fore  end  being  7ft. 
6in.  from  the  fore  side  of  the  stem.  She  is  rigged  with  a 
standing  lug  naainsail,  hoisted  with  a  single  halliard,  and 
the  tack  purchased  down  with  a  gun  tackle;  the  clew  is 
hauled  out  with  a  traveler  on  the  boom,  which  is  fitted  to 
the  mast  with  a  gooseneck ;  the  mast  is  stepped  2ft.  6in.  aft 
of  the  outside  of  the  stem;  the  mizzenmast  is  stepped  1ft. 
inboard  from  the  stern,  the  sail  being  a  leg  o'  mutton. 
Height  of  mainmast  above  deck,  19ft. ;  height  of  mizzenmast 
above  deck,  lOfi. ;  length  of  head  of  lug,  14ft.;  length  of 
luff  of  lug,  9ft. ;  length  of  leach  of  lug,  23ft  ;  length  of 
foot  of   lug,  13ft.  6in. ;   length  of  luff  of  mizzen,  &ft  6in. ; 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  211 

length  of  leach  of  mizzen,  8ft.  6ia. ;  length  of  foot  of  mizzen, 
6ft,  On  the  trial  trip  she  handle  J  very  well  under  sail;  with 
the  tiller  aoiidship,  she  nearly  steered  herself  on  a  wind, 
lu  placing  the  well  aft  I  secured  room  for  a  comfortable 
little  cuddy  under  the  lortdeck,  with  a  headroom  of  82in. ; 
and  with  only  3fl  of  deck  ai't  of  the  well,  I  do  not  require  a 
deck  yoke  steering  gear,  as  used  on  the  Mersey  canoe  yawls, 
but  have  an  ordinary  iron  tiller,  with  a  crook  in  it  to  pass 
the  mizzen.  1  think  'Pansy'  could  not  find  a  much  handier 
rig  for  this  class  of  boat.  I  may  mention  that  I  have  had 
the  above  canoe  yawl  built  for  use  on  the  Humber." 

Another  adds:  "In  reply  lo  'Pansy, 'permit  me  to  eay  that 
I  have  saikd  single-handed  for  some  years  a  Mersey  canoe 
with  a  center  plate,  nearly  the  same  size  as  'Pan^-y's,'  under 
a  standing  lug  and  mizzen,  and  a  handier,  safer  and  more 
seaworthy  little  craft  I  could  not  desire.  She  was  built  here 
very  faithfully  and  cheaply.  I  have,  however,  found  that 
the  sail  originally  given  her  was  too  much  for  real  sea  work, 
although  considerably  less  in  area  than  Mersey  canoes  are 
designed  thLoretically  to  cany.  My  ballast  was  3701bs.  lead 
inside,  uad  the  iron  plate  weighed  llOlbs.  The  sail  I  triei 
to  carry  at  limes  was  a  lug  with  a  boom  10ft.  on  head  and 
foot;  lull,  5ft.;  leach,  14ft. ;  jibheaded  mizzen,  foot,  5ft. ; 
lull',  6ft.  6in. ;  leach,  7ft  ;  height  of  mainmast,  step  to  truck, 
12ft.  But  seldom  indeed  could  1  give  her  this  sail  when 
single-handed,  so  1  reduced  the  inside  ballast  to  about  1121bs., 
the  mainsail  lo  8ft.  on  head  aad  foot  for  light  winds,  and 
had  another  lug  6ft.  6in.  on  head  and  foot,  with  4tt.  luff 
and  a  reef  in  the  mizzcu  for  every  day  work;  under  the  latter 
sails  the  boat  was,  all  round,  more  useful  and  infinitely  drier 
in  a  sea  way.  Guided  by  rough  expeiience,  I  advocate  for 
single  handed  small  boat  woik,  the  lug  and  mizzcn  sail  plan, 
with  u  shift  of  main  lugs  (the  lug  set  by  Dixon  Kemp's  plan 
of  peak  and  throat  halliards,  which  is  admirable  indeed),  ^in 
preference  to  lug,  jib  and  mizzen.  Simplicity  is  the  true 
motto  for  single-handed  small  boat  work  at  sea;  and  if  a 
boat  is  equally  handy  without  the  head  sail,  why  should  gear 
be  complicated  with  head  sheets  and  halliards?" 


212  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

Plate  XXXVl. — Mersey  Cakoes. 
The  Mersey  canoes  or  canoe  yawls,  have  grown  out  of  the 
small  canoes,  and  are  used  like  them  for  general  cruising, 
but  on  more  open  waters.  The  dimensions  are:  Length  17ft., 
beam  4ft.  6in.,  depth  2ft.  Oars  are  used,  as  the  beam  is  too 
great  to  admit  of  paddlinff.  The  deck  and  well  is  similar  to 
a  canoe.  Lead  ballast  is  stored  under  the  floors.  The  rig 
consists  of  two  lugs,  main  and  mizzen,  the  dimensions  being; 

Racing  Cruising 

mainsail.  mainsail.  Mizzen. 

Ft.  In.  Ft.  In.  Ft.  In. 

Foot  10    00  6    06  4    06 

Head  10    00  7    06  2    03 

Luff  5    00  2    06  2    04 

Leae'a 14    06  10    CO  6    00 

Tacktopeak 14    08  9    00  5    03 

Clew  to  throat 10    09  7    00  4    !  t9 

As  there  is  no  centerboard  the  interior  of  the  well  is  entirely 
unobstructed,  and  there  is  room  for  three  persons,  though  on 
a  cruise  two,  with  the  necessary  stores  and  baggage,  would 
be  enough.  Beds  for  two  might  easily  be  made  up  on  the 
wide,  flat  floor,  a  tent  being  pitched  over  the  well,  while  the 
seats  may  be  removed  entirely  at  night.  Under  the  fore  and 
after  decks  is  ample  room  for  storage  of  all  stores.  The 
steering  is  done  with  a  deck  tiller,  as  in  a  canoe. 

In  building  such  a  boat,  the  stem,  sternpost  and  keel 
would  be  of  oak — or  the  former  of  hackmatack — sided  1  Jin. ; 
keelson  of  oak,  Sx^in. ;  plank  of  codar,  ,^  or  fin.  lapstreak; 
gunwale  of  oak  or  mahogany;  deck  of  fin.  pine,  covered 
with  6  to  8oz.  drijl  laid  in  paint;  coamirigs  of  oak,  |in. 
thick.  The  ribs  would  be  fxf,  spaced  9in.,  with  floors  at 
every  alternate  frame. 

The  sails  are  rigged  as  "standing  lugs,"  or  a  yawl  rig 
similar  to  the  Viper  may  be  carried.  Thfy  will  be  of  6oz. 
drill,  double  bighted;  rigging  of  "small  G-thread"  manilla; 
blocks  of  wood,  iron  or  brass. 

The  dimensions  of  a  similar  canoe  are  given  in  "Cruises  in 
Small  Yachts  and  Big  Canoes,"  by  Mr.  H.  F.  Speed,  as  fol- 
lows: 16ft.  long,  4ft.  liin.  beam,  SOin.  deep  amidships,  with 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING,  318 

6iin.  of  keel,  containing  3cwt.  of  lead.  Inside  she  carried 
Icwt.  lOlbs.  of  lead.  The  sail  area  was  180ft.  mainsail 
and  mizen,  lugs,  with  jib,  the  dimensions  of  spars  being: 

Main  mast 13ft.  lin. 

boom  for  lug  sa;] IO:t.  4in. 

yard  for  lug  83  iJ 12ft.  6in. 

boom  for  gaff  mainsail 8ft.  5in. 

gaff  for  gaff  mainsail 8ft.  6in. 

Mizen  mast 8ft. 

boom 6ft.  4'n. 

yard 7ft.  4iD. 

boomkin,  outboard 2ft.  Oin. 

Bowspri  t,  outboard 5ft.  9in. 

Spinakerboom 10ft.  Bin. 

Tonnage,  "one  ton  and  an  awful  fraction." 

Her  well  was  oft.  6in.  long  and  2ft.  Gin.  wide,  with  a 
locker  aft  for  stores,  open  lockers  along  the  side,  and 
two  shifting  thwarts,  steering  with  a  half  yoke  on  the 
rudder,  and  a  rod  hinged  thereto,  the  motion,  of  course, 
bein^  fore  and  aft.  The  well  was  covered  completely  by 
a  tent. 


Plate  XXXVII.  -"Ibis"'  Canoe  Yawl. 

Tliis  boat  was  built  in  1887  by  J.  A.  Akester,  of  Horn- 
sea, near  Hull,  Eng.,  and  is  now  owned  by  Mr.  Holmes, 
of  the  Cassy.  The  hull  is  carvel  built.  The  mast  is  fitted 
with  a  tabernacle  for  lowering,  the  sail  plan  being  shown 
in  plate.  The  inside  ballast  is  in  four  blocks,  two  being 
generally  carried,  while  the  lead  keel  weighs  4501bs. 
A  ccnterboard  could  readily  be  fitted  to  work  entirely 
beneath  the  floor,  and  would  be  a  gi-eat  aid  to  the  boat  in 
windward  work.  The  tiller  is  of  iron,  and  curved  as 
shown  so  as  to  work  about  the  mizen  mast.  The  dimen- 
sions are  as  follows: 

Length  over  all 18ft. 

l.w.]. 17ft.  4  in. 

Beam, extreme 5ft.  lin. 

1.W.1 4ft  7  in. 

Draft,  extreme 1ft.  4*in. 

Least  freeboard. 1ft.  1  lu. 


214  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

Sheer,  bow lOiin. 

stern ...  7  in. 

Ballast,  keel,  lead 4501bs. 

inside,  lead    2251bs. 

Mainmast,  from  stem 2ft.   3*in. 

deck  to  truck 15ft.   3  in. 

Mizenmast,  from  stem 17ft.    3*ln. 

deck  to  truck Tit. 

Mizen  boomkin 2ft.   3  in. 

Main  boom. 15ft. 

yard 15ft. 

Mizen  boom. Oft. 

batten 6ft.  6  in. 

Mainsail,  area 168  sq.  ft. 

Mizen,  area 25  sq.  ft. 

Total .TlS3  sq.  ft. 

TABL3  OP  OFFSETS— CANOE  YAWL  IRIS. 


OQ 

Heights. 

o 

Deck 

Eab't, 

Keel. 

0 

3    4 
3    02 

2.. 

11« 

8 

4.. 

2    9 

9* 

52 

6.. 

2    7> 

7^ 

3 

8.. 

2    62 

7 

1* 

10.. 

2    5» 

7 

Q* 

12.. 

2    6 

6« 



14.. 

2    7< 

6« 

02 

10.. 

2    9T 

6« 

1» 

18.. 

3    0* 

' 

Deck 

Half  Bbeadths 

. 

No 

.1. 

No.  3. 

LWIi. 

N0.4 

No.  5. 

Rabbet 

02 
1    0' 

1 

8< 

7 

52 

32 

1» 

1    91 

1 

6 

1     4 

1      12 

9* 

4» 

2» 

2    ^2 

2 

0* 

1  111 

1    8* 

1    5 

118 

3> 

3    53 

2 

4< 

2    3< 

2    2  j  1  112    1    c 

32 

2    62 

2 

5« 

2    4' 

2    3*    2    IV.l    8* 

32 

2    55 

2 

4' 

2    4 

2    2"    1  118 

]    72 

31 

3      92 

2 

0' 

1  11^ 

1  10     17' 

1    21 

3 

1    5» 

1 

83 

1    1' 

1               9* 

65 

2 

OS 

1 

AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  215 


SNEAKBOXES  AND   CRUISING   BOATS. 


Plate  XXXVIII.— Baknegat  Sneakbox. 

This  curious  boat  is  used  on  Barnegat  Bay,  on  the  New 
Jersey  coast,  for  ducli  shooting  and  sailing.  Being  low  on 
the  water,  it  is  easily  converted  into  a  blind,  by  covering 
with  brush,  and  its  flat,  spoon  shaped  bottom  allows  it  to 
be  drawn  up  easily  on  the  mud  or  sand.  The  usual  size  is 
13x4ft.,  and  tlie  rig  is  a  small  spritsail.  Most  of  the  Bar- 
negat  boats  are  fitted  with  a  dagger  centerboard,  sliding  in  a 
small  trunk  from  which  it  may  be  drawn  entirely.  The 
boat  shown  is  used  only  for  sailing,  and  is  fitted  with  a 
board  of  the  usual  form,  hung  on  a  bolt.  The  rig  is  also 
different.  The  dimensions  of  the  boat  are:  Length  over  all, 
16ft.;  beam,  4t.  llin. ;  deptli  amidships,  l2in. ;  draft,  8in.; 
keel,  of  oak,  Sin.  wide;  frames  l^in..  sided,  lin.  moulded, 
spaced  13ia  ;  planking  (carvel  build),  i^g^"-  5  round  of  deck, 
Sin. ;  deck  planking,  fin. ;  coaming  Sin.  high  at  sides;  width 
of  rudder,  24in. ;  mast  at  deck,  Sin. 

The  sail  is  a  balance  lug,  hung  from  a  .single  halliard. 
The  yard  and  boom  are  each  held  in  to  the  mast  by  parrels. 
There  is  no  tack  to  hold  the  boom  down,  as  is  usual  in  these 
sails,  but  a  line  is  made  fast  to  the  free  end  of  boom,  lead- 
ing to  the  deck  near  Ihe  mast,  where  it  is  belayed,  thus 
preventing  the  sail  from  running  forward,  and  answering 
the  purpose  of  a  tackline.  Tlie  dimensions  of  the  sail  are: 
Foot,  loft.  6in.;  head,  9ft.  8in.;  luif.  Oft.  7in.;  leach,  30ft.; 
clew  to  throat,  16ft.  lOin.     Area,  160  sq.  ft. 

In  anchoring  the  boat  the  cable  must  be  rigged  so  as  to 
be  reached  from  the  well,  as  in  the  smaller  sizes  a  man  can- 
not walk  out  on  deck  to  the  bow. 


216  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

Plate  XXXTX  — TnE  Barsegat  Crciseb. 

The  prominence  given  to  cruising  of  late  years  by  the  in- 
creased growth  and  importance  of  canoeing  has  bronght 
many  into  the  ranks  who  do  not  care  for  so  small  a  boat  as 
the  canoe,  but  who  wish  a  strong,  roomy  and  serviceable 
boat,  either  for  cruising  or  for  general  sailing,  aloue  or  with 
one  or  two  friends.  The  canoe  is  really  a  boat  for  one 
person,  and  must  be  capable  of  being  paddled,  sailed  and 
handled  on  shore  by  one;  but  where  these  conditions  do  not 
prevail  a  different  type  of  boat  may  often  be  used  to  advan- 
tage. In  places  where  the  boat  must  lie  afloat  and  a  fine 
canoe  would  be  damaged ;  in  open  waters  where  there  is  no 
occasion  to  haul  up  the  boat,  and  where  transit  by  rail  is 
not  an  object;  in  shooting  trips  and  other  cruises  where  sev- 
eral persons,  and  perhaps  a  dog,  must  be  carried,  the  boat 
shown  in  Plate  XXXTX.  will  answer  admirably.  This 
boat,  named  by  its  designer  the  "Barncgat  Cruiser,"  is  an 
adaptation  of  the  common  sneakbox,  found  all  along  the 
New  Jersey  coast  (see  Plate  XXXVIIT.,  p.  215)  to  the  wants 
of  cruisers.  Mr.  N.  H.  Bishop,  so  widely  known  as  a  canoe- 
ist, cruiser,  traveler  and  an  able  writer  in  behalf  of  crui&ing, 
has  for  some  time  past  made  a  special  study  of  the  sneakbox 
at  his  home  ai  Toms  River,  N.  J.,  the  home  of  the  craft. 
He  has  built  and  tried  boxes  of  all  kinds,  has  experimented 
largely  with  sails,  and  has  expended  considerable  study  on 
the  details  of  fittings.  The  boat  shown  in  Plate  XXXIX.  is 
a  14-ft.  cruiser  of  tbe  new  model,  a  number  of  which  are 
now  building  at  Toms  River  under  Mr.  Bishop's  personal 
supervision,  for  members  of  the  American  Single-hand 
Cruising  Club.  The  lines  shown  were  taken  from  "Seneca's" 
boat,  described  in  the  Forest  and  Stream.     The  dimensions 

are: 

Length 14ft.    Oin. 

Beam 4ft.    Gin. 

Depth  at  gunwale 1ft.    lin. 

Sheer,  bow SJ^sin. 

Sheer,  stern 4in. 

Draft,  loaded 6in. 

Freeboard Tin. 

Crown  of  deck Sin. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  217 

Fore  side  of  stem  to  — 

Masttube 2ft.  9«^in. 

Trunk,  fore  end 8£t.  lin. 

Trunk,  after  end Cft.  3in. 

Well,  fore  end 5ft.  lOin. 

Well,  after  end lift.  Oin. 

Rowlocks Oft.  lin. 

Bulkhead 12ft.  Oin. 

Diameter  of  mast  tube .  ...  Sin. 

In  shape  the  new  cruiser  resombles  the  old  sneakboxes,  but 
is  deeper  than  most  of  the  latter.  The  board  is  of  steel  plate 
iin.  thick,  pivoted  at  the  fore  end  in  place  of  the  dagger 
boards  once  common  in  these  craft.  The  construction  is 
quite  peculiar.  Both  keel  and  planking  are  of  white  cedar 
fin.  thick.  The  keel  is  flat,  in  one  piece,  its  half  breadth 
being  shown  by  the  dotted  linos  in  the  half-breadth  and  body 
plans.  There  is  no  stem  piece,  but  the  keel  is  bent  up, 
forming  the  stem.  The  garboards,  also  &hown  by  the  dot- 
ted lines,  end  along  the  gunwale,  instead  of  in  a  rabbet  in 
the  stern,  as  in  most  boats. 

In  building,  after  the  keel  is  fastened  to  the  stocks,  with 
the  proper  curve,  the  stern  and  moulds  are  put  in  place. 
Then  two  pieces,  A  A,  are  sawn  out  of  lin.  board,  the  shape 
being  taken  from  the  deck  line  on  the  floor.  These  pieces 
are  screwed  in  place,  at  the  height  of  the  lower  side  of  the 
deck,  and  remain  permanently  in  the  boat.  The  ribs  are 
now  bent  and  fitted  in  place,  nailed  to  the  keel,  and  the 
upper  ends  of  the  forward  ones  are  nailed  to  the  pieces  A  A. 
As  the  planks  are  pat  on,  they  also  are  fastened  at  the  fore 
end  to  A  A.  The  correct  breadths  of  each  plank  may  be 
taken  from  the  body  plan  on  every  frame.  The  frames  are 
of  sawn  cedar  1^x1  ^in.  aad  spaced  lOin.  The  trunk  is  of 
pine,  deck  and  ceiling  ^in.  cedar.  The  rowlocks  are  of 
brass,  fitted  to  fold  down.  A  very  peculiar  feature  of  the 
new  boat  is  a  high  washboard  all  around  the  gunwale,  to 
keep  off  water  and  to  serve  as  a  receptacle  for  odd  articles  on 
deck.  Forward  the  two  sides  arc  bolted  to  a  chocli  of  wood 
or  an  iron-casting  of  the  shape  shown,  the  top  making  a  fair 
leader  for  the  cable.     Along  the  sides  the  washboards  are 


218 


PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 


held  down  by  an  iron  catch,  a  b.  The  piece,  h,  made  of 
band  iron,  Jx^in.,  is  screwed  to  the  deck  and  a  notch  in  the 
lower  side  of  the  washboard  hooks  under  it.  The  piece  a 
is  pivoted  to  b,  serving,  when  closed,  as  a  stop  to  keep  the 
board  in  place.  To  remove  the  washboard,  a  is  turned  to  one 
side,  when  the  board  may  be  slipped  free  of  b.  Aft  the 
washboard  is  fitted  with  two  battens,  sliding  into  square 
staples  in  the  stern. 

A  smaller  boat  of  the  same  kind  just  built  is  13ft.  Sin. 
long.  The  centerboard,  of  galvanized  iron,  is  placed  3ft. 
Bin.  from  stem,  the  trunk  being  3ft.  l^m.  long  on  bottom. 
The  rig  of  the  larger  boat  is  a  balance  lug  of  the  following 
shape: 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  219 

It  has  battens  and  is  hung  in  the  ordinary  manner.  A 
rudder  may  be  used,  but  the  boat  is  often  steered  with 
an  oar. 

The  following  description  of  the  outfit  of  one  of  these 
boats  is  given  by  "Seneca": 

Beginning  at  the  stem,  she  is  decked  over  5ft.  lOin. 
The  centerboard  trunk  begins  3ft.  lin.  from  the  bow  end 
ends  at  the  fore  end  of  the  cockpit.  Between  the  s-tem 
and  the  centerboard  trunk  are  an  extra  coil  of  rope  and 
an  extra  coffee  pot  and  tin  pail.  A  shrimp  net  with  handle 
and  a  jointed  fishing  rod  also  occupy  part  of  this  space, 
and  extend  part  way  alongside  the  starboard  side  of  the 
trunk  aft.  To  the  starboard  of  the  trunk,  in  easy  reach 
of  the  cockpit,  are  two  small  oil  stoves  and  a  can  of 
kerosene  oil,  also  a  brass  rod  which  is  used  to  shove  down 
the  centerboard.  On  the  port  side  of  the  trunk  are  the 
clothes  bag  and  the  granite- ware  cooking  utensils,  kettle, 
coffee  pot,  three  cups  and  thiee  plates.  The  cockpit  tent 
is  folded  up  on  the  floor  close  to  the  after  end  of  the 
trunk,  and  next  comes  a  tin  water-tight  box  with  the 
rubber  bag  of  bedding  atop  of  it,  which  is  used  as  a  seat 
when  rowing. 

The  box  is  divided  into  compartments.  No.  1  compart- 
ment contains  awl,  gimlet,  screwdriver,  nippers,  oyster 
knife,  cartridge  loading  tools,  brass  screws,  screweyes, 
brass  and  galvanized  blocks,  safety-pin  hooks,  nails,  rings, 
spare  cleats,  tacks,  etc.  No.  2  compartment  contains  un- 
loaded shells.  No.  3,  loaded  shells.  No.  4,  fishing  tackle 
of  all  kinds,  small  mirror,  comb,  thread  and  needles. 
No.  5  contains  gun-cleaning  tips,  waste,  rags  and  a  bottle 
of  gun  oil.  In  the  cover  of  the  box  a  jointed  cleaning 
rod  is  held  by  springs.  In  the  rubber  bedding  bag  are 
mosquito  netting,  two  blankets,  a  quilt  and  a  thick  car- 
riage robe,  and  perhaps  an  extra  flannel  shirt  or  two  that 
can't  be  crowded  into  the  clothes  bag.  Between  this  seat 
and  the  after  end  of  the  cockpit  is  a  clear  space  in  which 
to  "work  ship." 

The  after  deck  is  3ft.  long,  covering  a  2ft.  cuddy  and  a 


330  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

foot  of  room  below  decks.  In  the  latter  space  are  stowed 
the  two  water  jugs,  a  rubber  inflatable  mattress,  a  rubber 
coat  and  a  macintosh-covered  basliet  containing  bread, 
pilot  biscuit,  cheese,  etc.  In  the  stern  cuddy  are  canned 
soups,  canned  plum  puddings,  sardines,  and  other  tinned 
edibles,  potatoes  or  other  vegetables  in  water-proof  muslin 
bags;  a  candle  lantern,  riding  light,  and  odds  and  ends 
of  all  descriptions.  Underneath  the  side  decks  on  either 
side  of  the  cockpit  are  little  shelves  between  every  two 
deck  braces.  There  are  seven  of  these  shelves  on  each 
side,  which,  numbered  from  the  stern,  are  occupied  as 

follows: 

Port.  Starboard. 

,  j  Bagofsliot Bagofshot. 

^ I  Can  of  powder Revolver. 

(  Soap,  sponge Pipe,  tobacco. 

2 <  Whisk  broom Box  of  matches. 

I  Scrub  brush 

(  Monkey  wrench Hatch  piidlock. 

3 ■{  Can  opener,  big Case-knife,  fork. 

I  Spoon,  pliers Three  teaspoons. 

(  Coffee  can Sugar  can. 

4 -l  Salt  can Condensed  milk. 

I  Pepper  box Bottle  chow-chow. 

H  j   Greuerally  vacant,  the  bedding  bag  preventing 

" I       easy  access. 

Spare  rowlocks Hatchet. 

Spare  blocks. 

Candles. 

„  \   Towels Grub  in  general. 

' (   Slippers. 

The  gun  lies  on  the  floor  under  starboard  side  deck 
and  the  skipper's  artificial  aids  to  walking  under  port 
side  deck.  On  deck,  between  stem  and  mast,  2ft.  9in., 
is  coiled  the  anchor  cable,  with  Chester  folding  121b. 
anchor.  On  side  decks,  where  the  6in.  high  washboard 
prevents  their  rolling  off,  are  the  oars,  boathook,  mast 
and  sail  when  not  in  use.  A  stern  cable  is  coiled  on  after 
deck. 

In  sailing  a  long-handle  tiller  is  used,  so  that  steering 
can  be  done  from  the  cockpit,  but  under  certain  condi- 
tions the  skipper  steers  from  the  after  deck,  with  the 
tiller  put  on  the  radder  head  "stern  foremost,"  the  handle 
sticking  out  astern  like  a  boomkin.     The  cruising  sail 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  231 

generally  used  is  a  spritsail,  which  can  be  stowed  below, 
the  hatches  put  on  and  locked,  and  the  cruiser  left  at  any 
p>ort  with  everything  in  her,  while  the  skipper  takes  the 
train  home  to  spend  Sunday  with  his  family. 

With  such  arrangements  as  the  above  the  skipper  lives 
aboard  his  boat,  sometimes  not  touching  shore  for  three 
or  four  days.  Sitting  on  her  oilcloth  covered  floor  to  cook 
a  meal,  he  can  reach  everything  necessary  without  mov- 
ing his  position;  sitting  there  at  night  with  the  tent  up  he 
has  4ft.  of  headroom  in  a  waterproof  cabin,  which  can  be 
made  warm  and  cosy  in  December  by  keeping  one  of 
the  oil  stoves  alight;  and  anchored  at  night  in  a  cove  he 
sleeps  like  a  top  on  a  soft  "air  mattress,"  rocked  gently 
by  the  waves. 

Plates  XL.  and  XLI.— "Forest  and  Steeam"  Cruisee. 

The  sneakbox  is  essentially  a  hunting  boat,  and  the 
Barnegat  cruiser  shown  in  Plate  XXXIX.  partakes 
largely  of  the  same  characteristics.  As  the  attention  of 
boating  men  lias  been  more  generally  drawn  to  the  cruis- 
ing quahties  of  the  sneakbox,  many  comments,  criticisms 
and  suggestions  have  be'^n  made  for  the  improvement  of 
the  model  as  a  cruiser,  leaving  out  all  considerations  of 
duck  shooting  and  looking  only  to  the  end  of  a  safe,  speedy 
and  convenient  boat,  adapted  both  for  general  cruising 
on  open  water  and  a  safe  boat  for  summer  sailing.  To 
meet  these  wants  tho  accompanying  design  was  made  and 
a  boat  built  which  has  proved  very  satisfactory  on  trial. 
The  new  craft  is  based  on  the  sneakbox,  the  bottom  of 
which  is  kept  almost  intact;  but  an  inspection  of  the  for- 
mer boat  showed  several  features  capable  of  alteration,  if 
cruising  only  was  considered.  In  the  first  place,  the  low 
sides,  excellent  if  the  boat  is  to  be  used  as  a  blind,  have 
been  built  up;  the  excessive  crown  of  deck  has  been 
reduced,  and  the  washboards  have  been  discarded.  As 
the  height  of  the  deck  in  the  new  boat  is  less  than  that  of 
the  washboard  on  the  old,  the  windage  is  reduced,  while 


232  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

the  room  inside  and  the  stability  are  both  increased  by 
the  additional  bulk  of  the  new  boat.  At  the  same  time 
the  ne^  boat  will  stow  for  transport  in  tiie  same  breadth 
and  height  as  the  old,  the  total  depth  being  the  same. 
The  increased  freeboard  and  higher  bow  improve  the  boat 
greatly  in  rough  water. 

On  the  other  band,  the  high  washboards  made  a  con- 
venient receptacle  for  the  oars,  etc. ,  but  the  extra  inside 
room  in  the  latter  offers  a  full  compensation.  The  fold- 
ing rowlocks  are  given  up  entirely,  thus  removing  a 
troublesome  appendage,  and  cleats  are  fitted  to  the 
coaming,  in  which  ordinary  socket  rowlocks  are  set.  If 
it  is  desired  to  use  a  longer  oar  the  cleats  may  be  screwed 
to  the  deck  near  the  gunwale.  As  there  is  no  special 
virtue  in  the  awkward-looking  square  stern  of  the  sneak- 
box,  the  deck  and  planking  have  been  extended  2ft.  aft, 
the  latter  merely  continuing  in  a  fair  upward  curve  until 
they  meet  at  the  gunwale  as  in  the  bow.  This  gives  a 
handsome  finish  to  the  boat,  in  the  shape  of  an  elliptical 
stern,  with  an  easier  run,  more  buoyancy  and  increased 
deck  room.  The  rudder  is  of  the  balanced  variety,  a 
suggestion  of  the  owner  of  the  Bojum,  the  stock  being 
of  ^in.  iron,  tc  the  lower  end  of  which  two  flat  jjieces 
IXiin.  are  welded,  making  a  shape  like  a  tuning  fork. 
In  this  fork  a  piece  of  lin.  oak  is  set,  forming  the  rudder, 
the  head  of  the  stock  is  squared  for  a  tiller,  and  at  the 
level  of  the  deck  a  hole  is  driUed  for  an  iron  pin,  support- 
ing the  whole.  To  form  the  rudder  trunk  a  piece  o '  pine 
Sin.  square  is  fitted  from  the  inside  of  the  planking  to 
the  deck,  being  set  in  white  lead  and  well  screwed 
through  plank  and  deck.  Through  the  center  of  this 
piece  a  vertical  hole  lin.  in  diameter  is  bored  for  the 
rudder  stock. 

Owing  to  the  extended  deck  aft,  both  the  cockpit  and 
centerboard  are  further  aft  than  in  the  ordinary  sneak- 
box.  The  coaming  of  the  cockpit  is  2iin.  high.  The 
floor  boards  are  raised  from  3  to  3^in.  above  the  bottom, 
so  that  the  bilge  water  will  not  slop  over  them,  the  extra 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING. 


238 


depth  allowing  this  change.  There  are  no  fixed  thwarts, 
the  oarsman  sitting  on  a  box  which  holds  the  stores,  etc., 
on  a  cruise,  while  in  sailing  the  crew  sit  on  deck  or  on 
the  floor.  Wlien  used  for  pleasure  sailing  five  or  six 
may  be  accommodated,  and  in  cruising  a  bed  for  three 
can  be  made  up  on  the  wide  floor  of  the  16ft.  boat.  A 
tent  can  easily  be  rigged  over  the  boat  at  night,  supported 
by  the  boom.  For  one  or  two  persons  such  a  boat  13ft. 
over  all  will  be  quite  large  enough  for  cruising,  and  may 
be  b  .lilt  of  light  weight.  The  dimensions  and  scales  are 
for  two  sizes,  16  and  13ft.  over  all. 

TABLE  OF  OFFS3T3— THIRTEEN-FOOT  CBUISBR. 


1 

Heights. 

HAIiF-BREADTHS. 

Keel. 

Deck 

Deck 

No.l 

No.  2. 

No.  3. 

No.  4. 

LWIi 

No.  6. 

No.  7. 

0.... 

Ft.ln 

1    7* 

1 

5 

1* 

Oa 

Ft.ln 
1    7* 
1    6 
1    i* 
1    8* 
1    2» 
1    2> 
I    V 
1    1« 
1    1« 
1    1' 
1    2» 
1    2* 
1    2f 

Ft.In 
0 

7» 

1      08 

1    V 
1    6« 
1    8* 

1      06 

110 
1    9« 
1    9 
1    7* 
1    6 
1    1' 

Ft.ln 

Ft.ln 

Ft.In 

Ft.In 

Ft.In 

Ft.In 

Ft.In 

1.... 

2.... 
3.... 
4.... 
5.. 

9» 
1    3 

1      62 

1    81 
1    9» 
1    9* 
1    9» 
1    8* 
1    7 
I    4 
9« 

8* 
1    22 
1    5« 
1    7« 
1    8« 
1    9> 
1    9 
1    8" 
1    6< 
1    3» 

6* 

1    1' 
1    4' 
1    7 
1    8 
1    8s 
1    8» 
1    7* 
1    5" 
1    l" 

3' 

m 

1    3' 
1    61 

1    71 
1    7* 

1      7!" 

1    6* 

1    i* 

10' 

9« 
1    2* 
1    4« 
I    5« 
1    6 
1    6» 
1    5' 
1    2» 

6« 

6' 
1    0« 
1    31 
1    3' 
1    4 
1    8' 
1    3 
113 

0* 

96 

1    0» 

6.... 

Si.... 

1    0' 
1    1 

8  ... 

1    0« 

9.... 

11* 

10.... 
11.... 

1" 

8* 

12.... 

13.... 

1    3<    1    8< 

1 

324 


PROGRESS 

TABLE  OF  OFFSEXS- 


OF  CANOEING. 

-SIXTEEN  FOOT  CRtTISEB. 


Sta. 

Keel. 'Deck 

Deck 

No.l. 

No.  2. 

No.  3. 

No.  4. 

LWli 

No.  6. 

No.  7. 

0.... 

2          2 

0 

76 

1.... 

1    32 

1    03 

52 

12 

0» 

1    9* 
1    9 
1    7« 
1    6« 
1    6 

1     58 

1    51 
1    5 
1    5 
1    5 
1    51 
1    5= 
1    5* 
1    5' 
1    6' 
1    7 

2.... 

1 
1    1 

86 

63 

1    2 
1    65 

1  9' 
2 

2  1= 
2    1« 
2    2 
2    1* 
2    0' 

1   112 

1    8« 

1    4 

2* 

3 
1    0* 
1    5s 
1    8' 

1  11 

2  02 
2    0« 
2    1 
2    0" 
2 

1  10* 
1    73 
1    1 

3.... 

1    5=:  1    31 

10 
1    4 

1    7« 
1  10 

1    112 
1   11« 

1   116 
1   10* 

1, 

1      53 

8 

63 

1  1' 

1    6 

1      83 

1  95 

110 
1  10' 
1    9" 
1    9 

1    71 
1    1' 

4.... 
5.... 
6.... 

1      88 

1  113 

2  22 

1    7* 

1  m 

2  0* 

2      18 

11 
1    3' 
1    66 

1    73 
1    76 

1    76 

53 

1      02 

1    2« 

7.... 

1    8* 

8..  . 

2    2«|  2    23 

1    S* 

8f.... 

2    3 

2    2^ 
2    2 
2    0* 
1103 
1    7* 
1    3 
0 

2  2= 

2    82 
2    13 
2 

1    9* 

1    55 

91 

1      3T 

10. . . . 

1     74     1     34 

11.... 

1    6* 
1    3» 

75 

1    21 

12.... 
13.... 
14.... 

1 

31 

11* 

9* 

15.... 

16.... 

DIMENSIONS  OF  "FOREST  AND  STREAM"' 

Length  over  all 13tt. 

waterline 9ft.  42in. 

Beam,  extreme 3ft.    Sin, 

Depth  at  gunwale 1ft.  I'in. 

Sheer,  bow S^in. 

stern l^in. 

Crown  to  deck 2in. 

Fore  side  of  stem  to — 

Mast 2ft.  5*in. 

Trunk,  fore  end 2ft.   Sin. 

after  end 6ft.  4in. 

Well,  fore  end 5ft.  8in. 

after  end 10ft.  llin. 

Rowlocks 8ft.   7in. 

Rudder, .• lift.  llin. 

Width  of  weU 2ft.   6in. 


CRUISER. 
16ft. 

lift.  7in. 
4ft.  6in, 
1ft.  5in. 

7in. 

2in. 

Sin. 

3ft. 

3ft.  3in. 

7ft.  9tn. 

6ft.  llin. 

13ft.  6in. 

10ft.  6in. 

14ft.  Sin. 

3ft. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  225 

The  stations  are  1ft.  apart  by  both  scales.  In  the  13ft. 
boat  the  waterlines  are  If  in.  apart,  and  in  the  16ft.,  2in. 
The  scantling  for  the  13ft.  boat  would  be,  planking 
^in.,  deck  |in.,  timbers  |xiin.,  spaced  9in.  The  larger 
boat  would  have  |in.  planking,  |in.  deck,  and  timbers 
Ixiin.,  spaced  lOin.  The  stern  is  framed  as  described  for 
the  stem  on  page  182,  two  quarter  pieces  being  cut  to  the 
outline  of  deck  and  fastened  to  transom  and  upper  end  of 
keel.  A  sternpost  and  scag  are  fitted  after  the  boat  is 
taken  from  the  stocks,  and  two  bilge  keels  are  screwed 
outside.  The  centerboard  is  of  yellow  pine,  edge-bolted 
with  iin.  iron  and  weighted  with  lead.  The  deck  is 
covered  with  Goz.  duck,  laid  in  fresh  paint.  A  half  round 
bead  makes  a  finish  around  the  gunwale  and  covers  the 
edge  of  the  canvas.  If  a  handsome  little  sailing  boat  is 
desired,  the  hull  above  water  will  be  painted  black  or 
white,  with  a  gold  stripe  as  shown,  the  bottom  being 
coated  with  copper  bronze.  The  boat  shown  was  built  by 
J.  ISlacWhirter,  of  West  New  Brighton,  Staten  Island. 
The  cost  will  vary  according  to  size  and  finish,  from  $125 
for  a  13ft.  boat  with  sail  and  galvanized  fittings  lo  $160 
for  a  16ft.  boat  finished  with  brass  fittings. 

Only  three  forms  of  sail  are  in  common  use  in  Ameri- 
can waters,  the  boom  and  gaff,  the  leg  of  mutton  or 
sharpie,  and  the  sprit,  and  of  these  the  former  is  by  far 
the  most  common.  In  spite  of  its  serious  disadvantages, 
and  the  fact  that  there  are  many  better  rigs,  it  has  held 
its  own  for  many  years,  and  is  still  as  popular.  Within  a 
half  dozen  years  the  canoe  men  have  given  to  the  world 
a  number  of  new  rigs,  either  of  new  design  or  adopted 
from  abroad,  and  in  this  point  of  good  and  efficient  sails, 
these  new  sailors  are  far  ahead  of  the  older  boat-sailing 
experts  with  far  more  experience.  Chief  amongtho  new- 
fangled ideas  of  the  canoeist  is  the  balance  lug,  an  Eng- 
lish adaptation  of  a  Chinese  sail,  now  extensively  used  in 
this  country  and  api)licable  to  all  small  boats.  This  sail 
has  been  chosen  for  the  '"Forest  and  Stream"  cruiser,  and 
has  worked  very  successfully. 


226  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

Of  course  the  first  requisite  in  going  to  windward  is  a 
taut  luff,  as  with  it  shaking  nothing  can  be  done.  With 
a  badly  cut  and  made  iug  sail  this  cannot  well  be  had; 
but  a  boom  and  gaff  s-ail  has  this  doubtful  advantage,  that 
by  means  of  two  halliards  it  may  be  strained  and  stretched 
into  some  kind  of  shape,  though  never  what  it  should  be. 
With  a  properly  cut  sail  this  advantage  in  favor  of  the 
boom  and  gaff  disappears. 

On  a  small  boat  one  sail,  if  rigged  so  as  to  be  easily 
handled,  is  not  only  faster,  but  much  more  easily  man- 
aged than  two,  one  being  a  jib.  It  is  of  coui-se  much 
better  to  windward  or  free,  while  there  are  fewer  lines. 
The  requisites  for  such  a  sail  are  different  in  a  large  and 
in  a  small  boat,  as  in  the  former  there  is  much  more  room 
to  stand  and  work  halliards  and  lines;  there  are  usually 
more  to  help,  and  the  mast  is  always  kept  standing.  Li 
a  small  boat  the  sail  must  hoist  and  lower  easily,  surely 
and  quickly;  it  must  be  readily  removed  from  the  mast 
for  stowage  or  in  rowing,  and  it  must  be  so  placed  as  to 
balance  properly  in  connection  with  the  keel  or  center- 
board.  In  all  of  these  particulars  the  sail  shown  is  better 
for  sneakboxes,  yachts'  yawls,  rowing  and  sailing  boats, 
and  other  small  craft,  than  the  boom  and  gaff.  The 
former  has  no  mast  rings  to  jam  in  hoisting  and  lower- 
ing, as  they  are  always  liable  to  do;  it  can  be  quickly  re- 
moved from  the  mast;  the  latter  is  stepped  much  further 
from  the  bow,  keeping  the  weight  aft  and  being  easily 
reached  and  unstepped,  while  before  the  w-ind  the  sail  is 
not  all  on  one  side  of  the  mast  and  boat,  but  a  large  por- 
tion is  so  placed  as  to  help  balance  the  outer  end. 

The  sail  shown  is  for  the  16ft.  cruiser,  and  is  made  of 
yacht  drill,  (joz.,  double  high  ted,  bights  running  parallel 
with  the  upper  portion  of  the  leach.  The  gear  is  rigged  as 
follows:  The  boom,  2in.  greatest  diameter,  is  14ft.  long, 
to  allow  for  stretch,  and  is  laced  to  the  foot  of  the  saU, 
the  latter  having  about  3in.  roach  or  rounding.  A  sing  e 
brass  block  (i)  is  lashed  to  the  outer  end  for  the  sheet  (/). 
Just  abreast  of  the  mast  is  lashed  a  snaphook.    As  the 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  237 

greatest  strain  on  the  boom  is  at  this  point,  it  is  stiflfenecl 
by  a  fish  batten  (11)  of  oak,  |in.  square  at  middle  and 
tapering  at  ends,  the  length  being  2ft.  This  batten  is 
lashed  to  the  boom  by  four  lashings  of  fine  twine,  and  adds 
materially  to  the  strength,  while  lighter  and  less  clumsy 
than  an  enlargement  of  the  fore  end  of  boom  would  be. 

The  head  of  the  sail  is  cut  with  a  round  of  9in.,  lin. 
per  foot,  for  the  following  reason :  A  straight  stick,  like 
a  yard,  is  very  elastic,  even  if  of  considerable  size,  and 
will  bend  greatly  at  the  ends.  If,  however,  it  be  curved 
in  the  first  place,  it  then  requires  some  force  to  bend  it 
further.  The  principle  is  well  shown  in  the  common 
bow,  which  is  easily  strung,  but  then  requires  a  heavy 
pull  to  bend  it.  Another  important  advantage  follows 
this  form;  the  yard  or  bow  is  first  curved  in  a  vertical 
plane  and  held  there  by  the  sail.  Now,  with  this  tension 
on  it,  it  resists  powerfully  any  lateral  strain  that  would 
throw  the  peak  to  leeward.  This  is  aided  by  the  peculiar 
cut  of  the  sail.  The  yard  is  brought  far  down  the  luff 
and  a  large  part  of  its  length  is  forward  of  the  mast. 
When  the  luff  is  properly  set  up  a  very  strong  leverage  is 
put  on  the  yard,  holding  the  head  well  to  windward.  The 
sail  is  approximately  square  in  shape,  as  this  form  gives 
the  maximum  area  with  a  minimum  average  of  spars, 
mast,  boom  and  yard.  The  clew  is  cut  off,  as  wiU  be  seen, 
as  a  shortening  of  the  yard  by  a  foot  or  so  lessens  the  area 
but  little.  Two  battens  are  placed  in  the  sail  as  shown, 
with  reef  points,  and  a  hand  reef  may  be  added,  such  as 
has  been  described  previously  for  canoes.  It  will  be 
simpler  to  run  the  hand  reef  to  a  cleat  on  the  boom  in- 
stead of  on  deck,  as  a  man  cin  stand  up  readily  in  a 
large  boat,  and  can  reach  the  boom  near  the  fore  part, 
while  in  a  canoe  he  must  keep  his  seat,  consequently  the 
lines  must  lead  to  his  hand,  at  the  cost  of  simplicity. 
The  battens  are  Hxi  at  middle  and  fin.  sqiiare  at  ends, 
and  are  i*un  in  pockets  in  the  sail. 

The  yard  is  IJ^^  diameter  at  largest  part,  the  middle  third 
of  its  length,  and  is  rigged  as  follows:    A  rope  strap  (o)  is 


228  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

worked  on  it,  a  fish  batten  (ni  m)  being  used  as  on  the 
boom.  The  eye  of  the  strap  is  large  enough  to  admit  a 
snaphook  on  halliard,  or  better  yet,  a  snatchblock  may 
be  employed.  The  halliard  (a  a)  of  9-thread  manilla  rope, 
leads  through  a  sheave  at  masthead,  thence  through  a 
deck  pulley  near  mast,  and  is  belayed  on  one  of  two 
cleats  on  deck  at  the  fore  end  of  well.  In  its  upper  end 
a  snap  or  gaff  topsail  hook  is  spliced,  and  on  the  mast  is  a 
4in.  galvanized  iron  or  brass  ring  (n)  bent  into  oval  form, 
3iX4|in.  It  must  be  large  enough  to  slide  readily  with- 
out danger  of  jamming.  The  halliard  is  passed  through 
the  strap  on  yard  and  then  hooked  to  the  ring.  When 
hauled  taut  the  yard  is  always  held  in  to  the  mast, 
whether  full  sail  or  reefed  is  carried. 

A  lug  sail  can  hardly  be  set  taut  by  a  halliard,  but  a 
tack  tackle  must  be  employed,  and  a  very  powerful  one 
is  rigged  as  follows:  On  the  mast  is  another  ring,  to 
which  is  lashed  a  brass  block  (d).  On  deck  is  a  deck 
pulley  at  port  side  of  mast.  The  tack  line  (6)  is  made 
fast  to  the  deck  abaft  the  pulley,  the  end  is  rove  up  and 
forward  through  the  block  (d),  thence  down  and  aft 
through  deck  pulley  to  cleat  at  fore  end  of  well.  In 
setting  sail  the  mast  is  stepped,  hook  on  boom  is  snapped 
into  the  eye  of  block  (d),  the  two  parrels  on  the  bottom 
are  tied,  the  halliard  is  passed  from  aft  forward  through 
the  strap  on  yard  and  hooked  to  upper  ring  (n);  then  the 
sail  is  hoisted  as  high  as  possible,  after  which,  when  the 
halliard  is  belayed,  the  tack  is  hauled  down  until  the  sail 
is  parfectly  flat.  In  reefing  or  lowering  it  is  best  to  start 
the  tack  firsi,  then  when  the  halliard  is  set  up  the  tack 
is  hardened  down  again. 

A  toppinglift  (e)  is  thus  fitted:  The  line  is  double,  run- 
ning from  masthead  down  each  side  of  sail  and  splicing 
into  one  jast  below  boom,  leaving  enough  slack  to  lower 
the  latter.  On  the  boom  is  a  fairleader  (fc)  lashed  fast, 
and  through  this  the  toppinglift  is  rove,  thence  to  a  cleat 
on  boom.  It  may  thus  be  easily  reached  for  a  pull  at  any 
time,  even  with  the  boom  hard  off.     In  hoisting  or  reef- 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  229 

ing  the  toppinglift  should  take  the  weight  of  the  boom 
always. 

In  removing  the  sail  the  end  is  cast  off  and  the  lift 
remains  on  the  mast.  In  setting  sail  the  latter  is  first 
dropped  into  the  bight  of  the  toppinglift,  the  fore  end  of 
spars  on  deck  at  port  side  of  mast.  The  lift  is  made 
fast  to  cleat,  raising  the  sail,  the  tack  and  halliard  are 
snapped  on,  and  all  is  ready  for  hoisting.  A  jackstay, 
from  masthead,  and  made  fast  to  mast  about  1ft.  above 
deck,  will  be  found  very  useful  in  holding  up  the  fore 
ends  of  spars  and  sail. 

On  each  batten  a  parrel  is  made  fast,  to  hold  the  sail  to 
the  mast  on  the  starboard  tack.  These  are  small  lines  about 
2^ft.  long,  the  fore  ends  fast  to  the  battens,  while  the 
after  ends  are  tied  or  hooked  into  rings  lashed  to  the 
battens. 

The  sheet  in  a  small  boat  is  always  a  trouble,  wherever 
it  may  be  made  fast  it  is  always  in  the  way.  The  plan 
adopted  in  the  i^resent  case  is  perhaps  as  good  as  any. 
The  sheet  runs  through  a  block  (i)  on  boom  and  an  eye 
splice  is  worked  at  each  end.  On  deck  are  tliree  cleats, 
one  (g)  just  abaft  the  rudderhead,  and  the  others  (7t)  on 
each  side  of  well.  When  on  tiie  wind  the  after  eye  of 
sheet  is  hooked  over  the  after  cleat  (g)  while  the  sheet  is 
held  in  the  hand  or  belayed  to  one  of  the  forward  cleats; 
or  if  desirable  the  eye  may  hook  over  one  of  the  latter. 
"When  the  boom  is  off  the  sheet  is  cast  off  from  the  cleat 
and  its  whole  length  is  used,  the  eye  at  the  end  preventing 
it  from  unreeving  from  the  block.  By  this  method  a 
very  short  sheet  is  required,  wliile  a  good  purchase  may 
be  had  when  on  the  wind,  and  the  sheet  can  always  be 
arranged  to  be  out  of  the  way  of  the  sailor. 

Fitted  as  described  the  sail  will  be  found  a  very  effec- 
tive one,  and  once  accustomed  to  it  there  is  no  difficulty 
in  handling  it  quickly,  while  it  is  much  less  troublesome 
and  cumbrous  than  a  mainsail  and  jib.  If  for  any 
reason  the  latter  must  be  used,  it  can  be  fitted  on  a  stay, 
the  luff  of  the  sail  being  cut  down  as  much  as  possible. 


230  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

so  as  to  allow  room  for  the  jib,  but  in  almost  all  small 
boats  the  single  sail  will  be  found  best. 


Plates  XLII.  and  XLIII. — Sailing  and  Cruising  Boat 
"Delta." 

The  many  inquiries  concerning  sneakboxes,  tuckups, 
small  sharpies  and  similar  craft  show  that  there  is  a  gen- 
eral demand  for  small  sailing  craft  of  good  design,  both 
for  ordinary  pleasure  sailing  and  for  more  or  less  extended 
cruising.  This  demand  may  be  largely  ascribed  to  the 
influence  of  canoeing,  as  it  has  arisen  since  the  latter 
sport  became  generally  popular  in  this  country.  There 
are  many  to-day  who  have  given  up  the  canoe  after  a  fair 
trial,  and  many  more  who  are  ready  to  do  so;  but  this  is 
not  on  accouut  of  any  defect  in  the  boat.  The  general 
popularity  of  canoeing,  together  with  the  moderate  ex- 
pense, leads  many  novices  into  it,  not  because  it  is  just 
the  form  of  sailing  which  they  prefer,  but  because  they 
know  of  no  other  w^hich  would  suit  them  better.  After 
a  time  some  find  the  canoe  too  small  to  carry  a  party  of 
friends,  others  wish  a  boat  exclusively  for  sailing  in  open 
waters,  and  others,  again,  wish  to  carry  an  amount  of 
stores,  guns  and  tackle,  for  which  the  canoe  never  was 
intended.  This  proves  nothing  againtt  the  canoe,  a  boat 
adapted  to  wider  range  of  use  than  any  other  pleasure 
craft;  but  when  a  man  gets  to  this  stage  and  begins  to 
long  for  a  sneakbox  or  a  sharpie,  he  is  better  out  of  a 
canoe  than  in  it,  though  there  is  no  reason  why  the  bond 
between  him  and  the  man  who  still  swears  by  a  Hjx'hO 
canoe  should  be  severed ;  they  are  both  cruisers  and  sailors 
at  bottom,  though  their  craft  may  vary. 

The  boat  shown  in  the  accompanying  plans,  the  Delta, 
was  planned  by  Dr.  H.  G.  Piffard,  former  owner  of  the 
sneakbox  Bojum(,Pl.  XXXVIII.),and  is  an  attempt  to  com- 
bine the  best  qualities  of  several  boats.  The  bottom  of 
the  sneakbox  is  preserved,  but  with  the  bows  of  the  ordi- 
nary rowboat,  as  well  as  a  higher  side,  while  the  over- 
hang and  rudder  of  the  sharpie  are  added.   The  boat  was 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  231 

intended  for  pleasure  sailing  about  Greenwich,  Conn.,  to 
carry  half  a  dozen  comfortably,  and  yet  to  be  easUy  han- 
dled by  one.  While  a  fair  amount  of  speed  was  looked 
for,  the  boat  was  not  intended  for  racing,  and  if  wanted 
for  such  a  i^tirpose,  to  carry  all  the  sail  the  model  is  ca- 
pable of  with  a  crew  on  the  gunwale,  a  hea\  ler  construc- 
tion would  be  advisable.  ¥ov  all  ordinary  work  the  boat 
has  proved  amply  strong,  and  the  construction  here  given 
can  be  followed  in  all  details. 

The  question  has  often  been  asked,  "  Why  not  put  a 
boat  bow  on  a  sneak  box?"  and  for  all  save  hunting  pur- 
poses there  seems  to  be  no  reason  why  it  should  not  be 
done,  in  fact  this  boat  is  a  practical  answer  to  the  ques- 
tion. The  Delta  was  built  in  the  spring  of  188G,  and  thus 
far  has  given  perfect  satisfaction.  In  order  to  meet  the 
wants  of  the  single-hand  cruisers  the  drawing  is  given 
with  two  scales,  by  which  a  boat  of  13ft.  extreme  length 
may  be  built,  as  well  as  the  orignal  length  of  18ft.  The 
former  should  make  a  remarkably  good  little  craft, 
larger,  faster,  abler  and  far  handsomer  than  the  sneak- 
box,  and  little  more  costly.  The  bow  is  not  so  well 
adapted  for  beaching,  and  the  boat  is  too  large  and  high 
to  serve  as  a  blind  or  shooting  battery,  as  a  sneakbox 
often  does,  but  as  far  as  sailing  and  general  cruising  are 
concerned  the  odds  are  all  in  favor  of  the  Delta  as  com- 
pared with  any  form  of  '*  box."  The  dimensions  of  the 
two  sizes  are :  ^g^^  3^^^         ^3^^  ^^^^ 

Length  over  all 18ft.  13ft. 

l.w.l Kift.  lift.    6«in. 

Beam,  extreme 5ft.  4  in.  3ft,  lO'in. 

Diatt,about 8  in.  6  in. 

Deptli  at  sua  wale,  amid  ship..  1ft.  5<  in.  1ft.    O'in, 

Sheer,  bow Tin.  5Un. 

siern Sin.  2'in. 

Crown  of  deck a  in.  2  in. 

Fore  side  of  stem  to — 

Trunk,  fore  end  of  slot 4ft.  9  in.  Sft.    ^-flxn. 

after  end  of  slot 9ft.  (>  m.  Gt't.  lOHn. 

Well,  fore  end  of  slot 8ft.  9  in.  Gf t.    4  in. 

after  end  of  slot l.'if t.  s*  in.  lift.    4^in. 

Ruddcrstosk,  center 10ft.  8  in.  l^ft.    0<in. 

Rowlocks,  center lift.  7  in.  8ft.    4<in. 

Width  of  well 4ft.  2ft.  lO-iin. 

Distance  of  stations  apart  ...  2ft.  1ft.    5^in. 

waterlines  apart.         3  in.  23,,in. 


PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

TABLE  OF  OFFSETS— EIGHTEEN-FOOT  BOAT. 


OQ 

Heights. 

Half-Breadths 

, 

8 

a 

02 

Deck. 

Keel. 

Deck. 

No 

.  1. 

No.  2. 

No.  3. 

No.  4. 

Keel. 

0 

3    0* 
1  10 

01 
1    V 

01 
11= 

1.. 

97 

82 

■     57 

12 

2.. 

1    7« 

1112 

1 

88 

1    7» 

1    4« 

1    0= 

18 

R 

1      62 

1    5< 

2    4' 

2    7* 

2 
2 

33 
6^ 

2    1^ 
2    51 

111* 
2    3 

1      68 

1  11 

2s 

4.. 



2« 

5.. 

1    5« 

2    8 

2 

6' 

2    5'' 

2    38 

2C0 

2« 

6.. 

1    5' 

03 

2    7 

2 

5- 

2    46 

2    1« 

1    93 

2^ 

7.. 

1    6* 

2* 

3    4» 

2 

2 

1  ll'' 

1    72 

73 

2^ 

8 

1    73 
1    8* 

9 

1    8^ 

1  11 

1 

3« 

Z* 

9 

28 

! 

TABLE  OF  OFFSETS— THIRTEEN-FOOT  BOAT. 


a 

Heights.      [ 

0 

i 

Deck; 

Keel. 

0.. 

1  5» 

1.. 

1   38 

2.. 

121 

3.. 

1  1> 

4.. 

1  0' 

5.. 

1   06 

6.. 

1    08 

0' 

7.. 

1  12 

1' 

8.. 

1  1- 

64 

9.. 

128 

1  28 

Half-Bkeadths 

Deck. 

Nol. 

No.  2. 

No.  3. 

No.  4. 

Keel. 

0' 
98 

01 

82 

72 

6 

43 

1 

1    48 

1    3 

1    18 

1 

92 

1» 

1    8' 

1    7« 

1  6* 

1  5 

1  1« 

l" 

110» 

1  10 

1  9 

]  7* 

1  48 

V 

1  112 

1   103 

1  9* 

1  8 

1  53 

2 

1   103 

1    9< 

1  8* 

1  6° 

1  3* 

2 

1    8= 

1    7 

1  52 

1  1' 

53 

2 

1    45 

113 

1" 

J8 

AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  833 

The  scantling  for  the  larger  boat  will  be:  Keel  of  oak, 
^in.  thick  and  5in.  wide;  stem  of  hackmatack  or  oak  knee, 
sided  2in.;  stei'npost,  oak,  Ix^in.;  scag,  yellow  pine,  lin. 
thick;  planking,  cedar,  ^in.,  the  garboard  fin.;  deck, 
cedar  or  white  pine,  ^in.  scant;  coaming,  oak,  |in. ;  deck 
beams,  l^xld;  ribs,  Ixiin.,  spaced  9in.  A  clamp,2xiin, 
at  middle,  t:.pering  to  l^^xfin.  at  ends,  wiU  be  run  inside 
from  the  bow  to  the  bulkhead,  being  riveted  through  the 
ribs  and  upper  streak.  It  should  be  set  so  far  below  the 
gunwale  as  to  allow  the  deck  beams  to  rest  on  it.  A  solid 
chock  should  be  fitted  in  place  of  a  breast-hook  at  the 
bow,  below  the  deck  and  on  top  of  these  clamps.  The 
after  bulkhead  will  be  of  lin.  pine  or  spruce.  The  well 
for  the  centerboard  will  have  headledges,  6  &.  of  oak, 
lX2in.,  with  bed  pieces,  also  of  oak,  3|in.  deep  and  liin. 
thick,  the  sides  above  being  of  lin.  clear  white  pine. 

The  keel  is  |in.  extreme  thickness,  but  it  may  be  tapered, 
beginning  at  station  5  and  reducing  it  to  |in.  at  the  after 
end,  so  that  it  wiU  bend  more  easily.  It  will  be  thicker 
than  the  garboards,  but  when  the  planking  is  completed 
the  bottom  will  be  planed  down  on  the  edges  to  meet  the 
latter. 

The  smaller  boat  will  have  keel  fin.  thick;  stem,  sided 
l|in.;  rih^,  f  Xfin.,  spaced  8in.;  planking,  ^in.;  deck,  |in.; 
coaming,  fin.  scant;  deck  beams,  lin.  wide  and  IJin.  deep; 
headledges,  l^xfin.;  bedpieces,  3xliin.  In  construc- 
tion, the  keel  is  first  laid  on  the  stocks  and  the  stem  i^  got 
out  and  fitted.  A  mould  is  made  for  every  station,  that 
for  station  8  being  carefully  beveled  and  fitted,  as  it  is  to 
remain  permanently  as  a  bulkhead.  A  mould  is  now 
made  of  common  stuff  to  fit  the  upward  curve  of  the  keel 
from  station  5  to  the  stern,  and  is  set  up  on  the  stocks, 
the  keel  being  shored  down  into  place.  The  moulds, 
eight  in  number,  including  the  bulkhead,  will  then  be 
set  in  place.  Only  half  as  many  moulds  wcrld  be  used 
by  a  regular  builder,  but  the  amateur  will  find  the  work 
easier  if  he  has  plenty  of  moulds.  The  shape  of  the  stem 
is  given  by  two  pieces,  //,  termed  quarter  timbers.    These 


234  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

need  be  only  of  lin.  pine  or  spruce.  They  must  be 
marked  out  from  the  lines  on  the  floor  and  carefully 
beveled.  They  are  screwed  to  the  keel  and  also  to  the 
bulkhead,  being  let  into  the  latter. 

A  number  of  ribbands  of  oak  or  yellow  pine,  with  clear 
straight  grain,  are  now  run  around  the  moulds,  about  six 
on  each  side.  The  riba  are  now  planed  up,  steamed,  and 
bent  into  place,  being  held  by  a  nail  partly  driven  through 
each  ribband.  Each  rib  is  long  enough  to  lap  the  full 
width  of  the  garboard,  the  two  that  go  to  make  a  frame 
lying  side  by  side  where  they  cross.  When  the  ribs  are 
aU  in  and  fastened  permanently  to  the  keel  and  tempor- 
arily to  the  ribbands,  the  lower  ribband  on  each  side  is 
taken  off,  the  garboard  got  out  and  set.  The  next  ribband 
is  then  removed  and  another  plank  is  ret  and  so  until  the 
boat  is  planked.  The  piece  a  is  of  oak,  IJin.  thick,  set 
down  on  the  keel  to  stiffen  it  and  form  a  mast  step.  It 
should  be  put  in  place  before  the  ribs  go  in,  the  latter  being 
jogged  in  and  well  fastened  to  it.  The  clamps  should  be 
put  in  before  the  frame  is  taken  from  the  stocks,  the  deck 
beams  being  also  fitted. 

The  slot  for  the  trunk  should  never  be  cut  until  the  last 
thing,  but  when  the  planking  is  completed,  two  mortises 
are  cut  for  the  headledges,  the  two  bed  pieces  are  got  out 
and  fastened  to  them  with  through  rivets,  the  boat  is 
taken  from  the  stocks  and  the  trunk  put  in,  screws  being 
driven  through  the  keel  into  the  bed  pieces.  The  sides 
of  white  pine  are  then  put  on,  after  which  the  deck 
beams,  previously  fitted,  will  be  fastened.  They  should 
run  across  the  trunk,  being  jogged  down  so  that  the  deck 
will  close  the  top  of  the  trunk  tightly.  The  mortise  for 
the  sternpost  is  next  cut,  the  post  put  in  and  fastened  to 
the  bulkhead,  then  the  scag  is  cut  and  fitted,  being  fast- 
ened through  with  ocrews  from  inside  of  keel.  To  make 
a  tight  casing  for  the  rudderstock,  a  piece  of  pine  3^in. 
square,  e,  is  fitted  to  the  keel,  reaching  to  under  side  of 
deck,  being  set  in  whitelead  and  well  screwed  to  make  a 
watertight  joint.    A  hole  is  then  bored  for  the  iron  rud- 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  235 

derstock.  Ledges  about  Sin.  deep  run  across  the  boat  to 
carry  the  floor  boards,  and  also  to  stiffen  the  bottom,  for 
which  purpose  they  should  be  well  riveted  through  the 
planking. 

The  decks  are  supported  along  the  well  by  knees  c  c  c, 
three  or  more  on  each  side,  forming  lockers.  One  or 
more  of  these  may  be  fitted  with  doors  as  shown.  After 
the  boat  is  taken  from  the  stocks  the  slot  for  the  center- 
board  is  cut  in  the  keel.  Tlae  rudderstock  is  shown 
in  detail,  the  shank  of  round  iron,  |in.  with  two  flat 
pieces  each  Ix^in.  welded  to  it,  the  head  being  squared 
for  a  tiller.  The  blade  of  the  rudder  is  of  oak,  lin.  thick 
where  it  is  let  into  the  stock,  but  tai)ering  to  a  fine  edge 
forward  and  aft.  On  deck  there  should  be  a  brass  plate, 
while  a  pin  through  the  stock  prevents  it  from  falling. 
A  strip  of  iron  f  x^  may  be  run  from  the  centerboard 
slot  aft  to  the  rudder,  with  a  pin  up  into  the  center  of 
the  latter,  as  shown.  This  will  serve  the  double  pvirpose 
of  stiffening  and  protecting  the  scag  and  rudder,  and  also 
of  preventing  the  fouling  of  the  latter  by  weeds  and 
lines.  The  deck  should  be  covered  with  light  drill,  6oz. 
laid  in  white  paint.  All  fastenings  should  be  of  copper 
except  where  brass  screws  are  used.  The  sizes  given  for 
planking  and  decks  are  for  planed  stuff,  and  in  all  cases 
are  thick  enough  to  allow  of  planing  off  after  caulking, 
which  wUl  always  be  necessary.  The  board  shown  is 
large  enough  for  all  sailing,  and  in  the  smaller  boat,  if 
room  is  an  object,  it  might  bs  shortened  by  Gin.  on  the  after 
end.  The  size  of  cockpit  may  be  varied  according  to  the 
boat;  for  a  large  party  it  may  run  further  forward  on 
each  side  of  the  trunk,  but  for  rough  water  and  cruising 
the  size  shown  will  answer  very  well.  The  mortise  for 
the  mast  step  may  be  cut  in  the  piece  o.  The  forward 
deck  should  be  strengthened  by  a  piece  fin.  thick  and  G 
to  Tin.  wide,  running  from  stem  to  trunk  under  the  deck 
beams  and  riveted  through  beams  and  deck  plank. 
Where  the  mast  goes  through  the  space  between,  the  two 
should  be  filled  in  solid. 


386  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

The  sail  shown  in  Plate  XLI.  is  well  adapted  for  the 
smaller  boat  and  will  be  none  too  large,  but  in  Plate 
XLin.  two  other  suitable  rigs  are  shown,  the  scales  given 
being  adaptable  to  either  size  of  boat.  Delta  was  rigged 
with  a  single  large  lug  of  about  150ft,,  which  she  carried 
easily  without  ballast  in  ordinary  weather.  The  lug  was 
cut  with  very  little  round  to  the  head  and  the  yard  was 
straight.  There  were  no  battens  in  the  sail,  but  two  rows 
of  reef  points.  The  sheet  was  fast  to  an  eye  bolt  on  the 
quarter  and  led  through  a  block  on  the  boom,  and  then 
under  a  thumb  cleat  on  the  side  of  coaming,  or  through  a 
snatch  block  on  the  floor  of  the  boat.  Under  this  rig  the 
boat  handles  very  satisfactorily  for  singlehand  sailing, 
but  some  ballast  would  be  needed  if  no  passengers  were 
carried.  The  dotted  lines  show  the  size  of  a  cat  rig,  the 
mast  being  stepped  further  forward.  The  lug  is  the 
better  of  the  two,  but  is  more  difficult  to  rig,  and  many 
will  prefer  the  cat  simply  because  they  are  used  to  it  and 
unfamiliar  with  the  other.  The  main  and  mizen  rig  in 
the  second  drawing  is  smaller,  and  better  adapted  for 
cruising  and  sailing  alone.  The  decails  of  the  rigging  are 
the  same  as  in  the  preceding  sail  plan.  The  sails  here 
shown  are  of  the  form  usually  carried  on  canoes  and  small 
boats,  but  a  flatter  and  more  effective  sail  can  be  had  by 
making  the  yard  longer,  carrying  it  down  to  the  batten, 
rounding  the  head  much  more  than  is  shown,  and  throw- 
ing a  little  more  of  the  yard  forward  of  the  mast,  as  in 
the  Cruiser's  sail.  Such  sails  require  to  be  carefully 
rigged,  and  more  or  less  trial  is  always  needed  to  find  the 
best  position  for  halliard  and  tack  on  the  spars,  but  when 
once  complete  they  are  good  enough  to  fully  repay  the 
trouble.  The  dimensions  of  the  single  lug  are  as  follows, 
the  mast  in  the  plan  being  shown  forward  of  its  proper 
position,  which  is  given  in  the  table: 

18ft.  boat.  18ft.  boat. 

Mast,  from  stem 4ft.  2ft.    9in. 

above  deck 15ft.  10ft.  lOin. 

diameter  at  deck SJ^in.  2%iii. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  387 

18ft.  boat.  13st.  boat. 

Boom lift.  'Jin.  10ft.    Gin. 

diameter 2in.  IMin. 

Yard 10ft.  Cin.  7ft.    Tin. 

diameter IJ^in-  l/^in. 

Foot  of  sail 14ft.  10ft.    lin. 

LufiE Oft.  Cin.  6ft.  lOJ^in. 

Head Oft.  9in.  7ft. 

Leech 19ft.  13ft.    Sin. 

Tack  to  peak 18ft.  6in.  13ft.    4in. 

Clew  to  throat  ICf t.  Cin.  lift.  llin. 

Area ISSsq.  ft.  805q.  ft. 

The  dimensions  of  the  main  and  mizen  rigs  are: 

18ft.  boat.  13ft.  boat. 

Main.  Mizen.  Main.  Mizen. 

Ft.  In.  Ft.  In.  Ft.  In.  Ft.  In. 

Main,  from  stem 2    00  17    00              1    06  13    03 

above  deck 13    06  7    00              9    00  5    00 

diameter  at  dock...  0    03  0    03             0    02J4  0    01J6 

Boomkin,  outboard 1    09              ...  1    03 

Boom 13    02  6    06              8    10  4    09 

diameter 0   OIM  0    01"^          0   01^  0    01 

Yard 9    00  5    03  7    00  3    10 

diameter 0    01^4  0    01              0    Oli^  0    00% 

Foot 11    06  C    00             8    04  4    04 

Luff 6    06  3    06              4    09  2    07 

Head 9    00  4    09              G    06  3    06 

Leech 14    08  7    07  10    06  5    06 

Tack  to  peak 15    00  8    00  10    10  5    09 

Clev/ to  throat 11    06  6    06             9    00  4    09 

Area 90sq.ft.  26sq.ft.  49sq.ft  14sq.ft. 

The  drawings  show  the  size  of  sails  when  stretched  on 
the  spars  after  a  little  use.  They  must  be  cut  a  little 
smaller  than  this  in  making,  and  after  a  season  they  will 
have  stretched  to  the  full  size  of  the  spars  shown. 


Plate  XLIV.— The  Delaware  River  Ducker. 

Along  the  Delaware  these  boats  are  much  used  for  row- 
ing and  sailing  generally,  gunning  and  fishing,  but  especi- 
ally for  reedbird  shooting  in  the  marshes  below  Philadel- 
phia.   The  flat  floor  allows  them  to  be  poled  far  up  on  the 


238 


PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 


maxshes  where  there  is  more  mud  than  water,  and  they 
are  often  propelled  by  a  long  pole  with  three  prongs  on 
the  lower  end,  for  poling  on  muddy  bottoms.  There  is 
no  fixed  thwart,  but  a  movable  box  is  used,  so  that  the 
gunner  may  sit  in  the  fore  end  and  his  assistant  may  use 
the  pole  in  the  after  end;  the  latter  may  sit  forward  and 
row  while  the  gunner  occupies  the  after  seat;  or  the  boat 
may  be  backed  down  by  the  oarsman  in  the  after  seat, 
the  gunner  sitting  on  the  box  in  the  bow.  Both  ends  of 
the  boat  are  exactly  alike,  the  only  difference  being  in 
the  seat,  rowlocks  and  coaming. 

The  dimensions  are:  Length,  loft.;  beam,  3ft.  lOin.; 
depth,  13in.;  sheer,  Sin.  The  stem  and  stern  are  sided 
l^in.,  keel  sided  Gin.  amidships  and  moulded  ILn. ;  plank- 
ing, |in.;  timbers,  fin.xAin.;  deck,  fin.;  flooring,  |in. 

TABLE  OF  OFFS2TS — DELAWARE  RTVZB  DCCKER. 


HAIiF-BBEADTHS. 

Deck 
Height. 

Stations. 

Deck. 

12in. 

Sin. 

Gin, 

an. 

21="       ■ 
18* 
15» 
13» 

10 
18» 
22 

2 

7« 
16» 
21'* 

C> 
15 
£0 

4» 
12 
17* 

1« 

3    

7» 

4 

13 

« 

13 

23 

23 

2l« 

19* 

15» 

6 

13' 

23 

21* 

20 

17* 

13 

7 

15^ 

182 

16« 

15 

12 

75 

8 

18* 

10 

7« 

C» 

4» 

1* 

9 

21* 

0» 

The  stations  are  spaced  2£t.  apart,  measuring  each  way  from 
midship  section,  and  the  waterlines  arc  3in.  apart. 

Along  the  bottom  of  keel  are  two  wooden  runners,  A  A, 
f  Xiin.  and  shod  with  half-round  iron.  It  will  be  noticed 
that  the  stem  and  stem  each  project  the  same  distance 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  239 

below  the  planking,  and  the  runners  shown  by  dotted 
lines  in  the  breadth  plan  project  forward  of  the  stem  and 
aft  of  the  stern,  as  at  A  A,  B  B.  The  floor  boards  are 
screwed  to  two  battens,  which  are  on  top  of  them,  so  as 
to  allow  the  boards  to  lie  close  to  the  bottom  of  the  boat. 
They  form  one  piece  only,  that  may  be  easily  lifted  out. 
The  brass  rowlocks  are  accurately  turned  and  fitted,  with 
long  shanks,  so  as  to  be  nearly  noiseless.  The  side  decks 
are  supported  by  three  iron  knees  on  each  side. 

The  dueker  carries  one  boom  and  gaff  sail;  the  usual 
area  for  a  boat  of  this  size  being  113sq.  ft.,  the  racing 
rig  running  up  to  loOsq.  ft.  The  smaller  sail  would  have 
15ft.  on  foot,  7ft.  6in.  luff,  16ft.  6in.  leech,  and  7ft.  6in. 
head,  the  mast  being  stepped  2ft.  from  stem. 


Plates  XLV,  and  XLVI.— Delaware  Rivee  Tuckup. 
The  Delaware  River  in  the  vicinity  of  Philadelphia  is 
the  home  of  three  special  classes  of  sailing  boats,  the 
hiker,  the  tuckuj)  and  the  dueker,  all  three  being  peculiar 
to  the  locality  and  used  so  far  as  we  know  on  no  other 
waters  than  the  middle  Delaware  and  lower  Schuylkill. 
All  are  cat  rigged,  but  differ  in  size,  the  hiker  being  the 
largest,  a  small  half  open  catboat,  withabout4ft.  Sin.  beam 
for  15ft.  length,  same  proportion  for  larger  sizes;  the 
tuckup  being  a  few  inches  narrower  and  not  quite  so  deep, 
both  with  square  stems,  while  the  dueker  is  a  double- 
ended  shooting  skiff,  also  fitted  for  sailing.  The  plans 
show  a  very  good  example  of  the  present  fourth  class 
tuckup,  the  Priscilla,  built  in  1887  for  Mr.  Edward  Stan- 
ley, of  Bridgeport,  Pa.,  by  James  Wignall,  of  Philadel- 
phia. The  lines  were  carefully  plotted  from  offsets 
taken  by  Mr.  E.  A.  Leopold,  of  Norristown,  Pa.,  the  boat 
being  enrolled  in  the  Montgomery  Sailing  Club  of  that 
place  and  sailing  in  all  the  races.  The  peculiar  name 
"tuckup"  is  derived  from  the  fact  that  in  building  the 
flat  keel  is  not  carried  out  straight  from  the  stem  to 
sternpost,  along  the  finely  dotted  line  B,  as  would  be  the 


340  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING, 

case  in  most  catboats  of  any  size,  but  it  turns  or  "tucks" 
up,  in  builder's  parlance,  to  the  height  of  the  waterline, 
as  in  the  Delta,  'Forest  and  Stream"  cruiser,  and  the 
sneakbox;  a  separate  scag  being  added  below  the  keel. 
The  word  came  into  general  use  from  the  construction 
and  is  now  applied  solely  to  such  a  boat  as  is  here  shown. 
The  two  boats  here  described,  Priscilla  and  Igidious, 
are  owned  on  the  Schuylkill  about  fifteen  miles  from 
Philadelphia,  and  sail  in  the  races,  but  the  home  of  the 
craft  is  in  the  Kensington  district  of  Philadelphia,  near 
the  famous  Cramp's  shipyard.  Here  there  are  several 
long  wharves,  lined  on  each  side  with  rows  of  two-story 
boat  houses,  twenty  to  thirty  in  a  row.  In  these  houses 
are  stored  hundred  of  duckers  and  tuckups,  while  the 
upper  story  of  each  is  fitted  up  more  or  less  comfortably 
for  the  use  of  the  crews;  gunning,  fishing  and  camping 
outfits,  with  sails  and  gear,  being  kept  there.  On  Sun- 
days in  particular  the  wharves  and  houses  are  crowded, 
the  boats  are  off  for  short  cruises  up  or  down  the  river, 
or  races  are  sailed  between  the  recognized  cracks,  han- 
dled by  old  and  skillful  captains  and  trained  crews.  The 
following  tables  give  very  f uUy  the  details  of  the  boats : 

DIMENSIONS  AITD  ELEMENTS  OF  TUCKTJPS. 

Priscilla.  Igidions. 

Length  over  all 15  03  15  04* 

l.w.l 1411 

Beam,  extreme 4  03*  4  05^ 

Lw.l 307  308 

Draft,  bow 3  

stern 10  

Depth,  amidship 1  03»  1  04» 

Sheer,bow 6  7* 

stern 6  B» 

Displacement  to  l.w.l.,  lbs 716  .... 

to  7in.  level  line.  lbs..    760  .... 

per  inch  immersion,  lbs.    175  .... 

Areal.w.  plane,  sq.  ft 43  52  .... 

lateral  plane 8  00  .... 

centerboard 2  05  .... 

rudder HOI  .... 

Total 13  03 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  241 

C.L.R.  abaft  fore  end  l.w.l.  with  board.  9  00 

C.E.  abaft  fore  end  l.w.l 8  27 

StationO  to  mast  center 1  00  1  00 

slot  in  keel -j  ^  04  704     ^^* 

point  of  coaming 3  04  3  04 

fore  thwart 6  02  ^jW 

after  thwart 9  93  V** 

Mast,  deck  to  truck 16  00  15  00      v'j; 

diameter  at  deck S^"  — 

truck 1«  3» 

Boom 18  06  17  00 

diameter V  — 

Gaff 1000  1000 

diameter 1*  

Bowsprit,  outboard 1111  2  06 

Centerboard 19x38 

Mainsail,  foot 18  00  16  06 

luff 11  08  10  00 

head 9  04  9  00 

leech 20  10  20  00 

tacktopeak 19  10  19  00 

clew  to  thwart 20  03  18  06 

Area,sq.ft 198 

Priscilla  has  a  keel  sided  5}^n.  at  rahhet,  6V^in.  inside,  lin.  thick, 
stem  and  sternpost  sided  lin.,  transom  J^in.  thick,  ribs  lx%ln.. 
spaced  9in.,  nails  (copper  riveted  over  burrs)  spaced  3in.  Plank- 
ing, lapstrake,  %in.,  deck  J^n.,  centerboard  %\n.  oak,  coaming 
^in.  oak,  3J^in.  high  at  point,  9iin.  at  midships  and  5iin.  at  stern. 
Round  of  deck,  IJ^in.  Wearing  strips,  A  A,  oak,  ^in.X'iein., 
spaced  6in.  apart.  Thwarts  7in.  wide,  lOin.  above  bottom  of  keel; 
trunk  llin.  high. 

Ingidious  is  3ft.  2J^in.  wide  across  stern,  with  skag  3ft.  4in.  long 
and  9>^in.  deep;  coaming  4}^in.  high  at  point,  lin.  from  midships 
to  :  tern.  Keel  7?iin.  extreme  width;  round  of  deck,  IJ^iii^i  mast 
step  of  iron,  braced  \vith  two  rods  witli  turnbuckles.  Ribs  and 
fastenings  as  in  PrisciUa.    Planking  %in. 

The  boats  are  all  lapstrake,  very  carefully  built  and 
oopper-fastened,  and  are  decked  as  shown,  with  about 
Tfin.  waterways,  the  well  extending  to  the  transom.  The 
board  is  of  the  dagger  pattern,  often  being  much  larger 
than  shown,  and  the  rudder  is  of  the  familiar  barn  door 
pattern ,  of  great  length,  with  tiller  to  match.  The  boards 
are  always  of  wood,  but  at  Norristown  steel  plates  have 
lately  been  introduced,  an  innovation  not  approved  of  by 


248 


PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 


the  Philadelphia  experts.  Five  metal  boards  of  501bs.  down, 

one  a  brass  board,  are  now  in  use  at  Norristown.   The  sail- 

i^TUles  on  the  Delaware  allow  4ft.  Gin.  beam  for  a  15ft. 

/!'  xKjat  with  five  men  all  told,  while  the  sail  is  limited  to  56 

TABLE    OF    OFFSETS— TUCKUP  PKISCILIiA. 


CO 

g 

Heights. 

Half-Breadths. 

• 

Deck. 

Babl)et 

Deek 

lan. 

Sin. 

6in. 

4in. 

2in. 

Rab- 
bet. 

0 

1  9» 
1  7« 

1* 

0* 

76 

0* 
5 

1 

3' 

2« 

1« 

0« 

0* 

2 

1  6" 

0» 

I    1» 

9' 

71 

5» 

4 

2' 

0» 

3 

1  5* 



1    53 

1    2S 

IP 

9» 

6« 

3' 

1« 

4 

1  4* 

1    8* 

1    6> 

1    3 

1    1' 

P6 

6 

V 

5 

13« 

1  10* 

1    9 

1    62 

1    4» 

1    F 

8> 

2» 

6 

1S» 

2 

1  10' 

1    S* 

1    6* 

1    33 

10 

a» 

7 

13" 

2    0' 

2    0 

1    9' 

1    8 

1    4« 

112 

2« 

8 

133 

2    1' 

2    5* 

1  10« 

1    8* 

1    62 

u« 

2* 

9 

13* 

2    13 

2    0< 

1  102 

1     83 

1    4» 

10' 

2« 

10 

14 

2    0^ 

111' 

1    9^ 

1    7" 

I    33 

91 

23 

11 

1  4« 

2    0" 

110* 

1    72 

1    4« 

1    0* 

6« 

2» 

12 

1  5* 

0" 

IIP 

1    8« 

1    4 

1    1 

86 

42 

1» 

13 

16« 

1* 

1    9' 

1    54 

11« 

82 

45 

1* 

12 

14 

1  8 

4 

1    81 

1    V 

6» 

31 

0» 

0» 

15  . 

1  93 

8 

1    5« 

5* 

0* 

0* 

linear  feet  of  bolt  rope  when  new,  giving  about  180ft. 
area.  This  will  give  15ft.  on  foot,  13ft.  luff,  8ft.  head, 
and  21ft.  leech.  In  the  M.  S.  C.  this  rule  i-s  not  used,  the 
boats  being  classed  together  with  a  penalty  for  excess  of 
sail  area  over  that  allowed.  The  limit  is  165ft.  for  tuckups, 
110ft.  for  duckers  and  80ft.  for  canoes  and  small  boats,  the 
tuckups  allowing  the  others  five  minutes  over  a  five  mile 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  243 

course.  Any  boat  may  increase  her  sail  by  allowing  2 
seconds  per  foot  per  mile,  and  allowances  are  figured 
at  the  start,  so  that  the  first  boat  home  wins.  Five  men  are 
allowed  to  the  tuckups  and  two  for  the  duckers,  but  thus 
far  a  crew  of  three  seems  to  be  the  best  for  the  former. 


Plate  XLVn.— "  Geacie,"  Open  Sailing  Boat. 

Gracie  is  a  rowboat  12ft.  long  and  34in.  beam,  de- 
signed and  built  by  her  owner,  an  amateur  and  a  novice 
in  boat  buUding,  Mr,  E.  A.  Leopold  of  Norristown,  Pa. 
The  only  guide,  both  in  designing  and  building,  was  the 
first  edition  of  "Canoe  and  Boat  Building  for  Ama- 
teurs," and  the  boat  was  intended  only  for  rowing  and 
fisliing  on  the  Schuylkill  River,  a  narrow  and  winding 
stream  with  very  squally  and  variable  winds,  running 
through  Norristown,  a  short  distance  from  Philadelphia. 
The  boat  is  a  lapstreak,  weighing  601bs.  when  first  com- 
pleted, with  a  keel  lin.  square,  and  fitted  up  with  Allen's 
bow-facing  oars.  During  the  first  year,  1885,  she  was 
used  solely  for  pleasure  rowing,  duck  shooting  and  fish- 
ing, and  light  enough  to  be  handled  conveniently.  The 
next  season  a  small  sail  was  added,  with  several  styles  of 
leeboards,  but  the  latter  were  in  turn  discarded  for  a  va- 
riety of  weather  grip,  while  the  sail  grew  to  59.*"t.,  some 
very  fair  sailing  being  done  toward  the  latter  part  of  the 
season.  In  1887  the  sail  was  increased  to  85ft.,  as  shown, 
while  the  weather  grip  was  improved  after  many  trials. 

Thus  rigged  Gracie  has  raced  against  some  fast  boats 
of  much  greater  size  and  power,  and  sailed  by  full  pro- 
fessional crews,  she  saiUng  singlehanded  and  without 
ballast.  She  started  thirteen  times  and  won  three  firsts 
and  three  seconds  in  1887,  a  very  good  record  when  the 
relative  sizes  and  the  reputation  of  the  tuckups  are  con- 
sidered. Of  course  she  has  had  a  good  allowance,  but  it 
is  hard  to  say  whether  it  is  too  much  all  tilings  considered. 
At  first  the  crew  of  one  sat  en  the  floor,  then  two  cushions 


244  i^BOGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

were  added,  replaced  a  little  later  by  a  seat  Sin.  below 
gunwale,  which  seemed  very  high  at  first.  It  was  soon 
eA;ident  that  the  crew  could  sit  far  out  to  windward,  and 
with  more  comfort,  while  the  pad,  sewn  in  the  back  of 
the  coat,  to  protect  the  backbone  when  sitting  inside, 
was  discarded.  The  next  move  was  to  place  a  seat,  canoe 
fashion,  across  the  gunwale,  a  very  great  improvement, 
as  a  better  command  of  the  boat  is  obtained  with  less 
effort.  In  sailing  with  but  two  sails  the  area  was  too 
small  for  racing,  while  the  balance  was  bad,  the  boat 
constantly  luffing.  The  addition  of  a  jib  cured  both 
faults,  the  boat  being  faster  except  when  free,  and  steer- 
ing to  perfection.  In  every  puff  she  will  eat  herself  to 
w^indward  without  a  touch  of  the  tiller,  only  a  slight 
motion  of  the  body  forward  or  aft  being  necessary  to  luff 
her  up  or  throw  her  head  off.  It  is  to  this  that  she  owes 
much  of  her  gain,  as  little  steering  with  the  rudder  is 
needed  to  make  her  work  well  in  the  constantly  varying 
puffs  that  rush  down  from  the  hills  in  all  directions.  She 
is  sailed  without  a  fly,  such  as  is  used  by  most  of  the  other 
boats,  as  it  is  very  deceptive.  In  running  free  or  in  tack- 
ing the  rudder  is  used,  but  most  of  the  steering  is  done  by 
the  body  only.  The  boat's  worst  point  of  sailing  is  before 
the  wind,  her  best  reaching.  She  receives  about  9min. 
in  five  miles  from  boats  15ft.  X  14ft.  6in.,  and  sailed  by 
four  or  five  men  hanging  out  to  windward  by  means  of 
ropes.     The  dimensions  of  Gracie  are  as  follows: 

Length  extreme 12ft. 

Beam 2ft.  lOin. 

Depth,  amidships 1ft. 

at  ends 1ft.   Sin. 

Mainmast,  from  stem 1ft 

above  deck 5ft.  lOin. 

diameter,  deck . . .  IJ^in.,  head IMin. 

Main  boom 8ft.   Sin. 

diameter l%in. 

Yard 12ft.   4in. 

diameter IJ^in.  and  ^n. 

Batten 8ft.   Sin. 

Mizenmast,  above  deck 8ft.  9in. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  245 

Mizenmast,  diameter l^in>  and  ^i  n. 

from  stem 9ft.  Tin. 

Mizen  boom 5ft.  Sin. 

Batten VA.  lOin. 

Bowsprit  outboard 4ft.  6J^in. 

Jib,  orluflf 7ft.  6in. 

foot  and  leech,  each 5ft.  Sin. 

The  jib  halliard  and  downhaul  are  in  one  length,  the 
bight  belayed  to  a  cleat  on  the  port  side,  a  small  club  is 
laced  to  the  foot  of  the  jib.  The  mainmast  and  boom  are 
of  bamboo,  mainboom  yellow  pine,  mizenmast  of  white 
pine.  The  mainsail  is  fitted  to  reef  to  a  lateen  by  means 
of  a  jaw  at  B  on  the  boom,  so  placed  that  no  change  of 
the  halliard  is  necessary.  The  batten  is  fitted  with  cleats, 
C  C  C  C,  of  spring  brass,  with  a  single  reef  point  oppo- 
site each.  The  boom  is  lifted,  a  reef  point  mide  fast  by 
one  turn  about  the  cleat,  then  the  boom  is  shifted  until 
the  second  jaw  engages  the  mast.  The  other  reef  points 
may  then  be  made  fast  at  leisure,  though  in  a  short  squall 
the  jib  is  dropped,  the  mainboom  made  fast  by  but  one 
reef  point,  and  shifted  to  set  by  the  inner  jaw.  The 
mizen  is  never  reefed.  In  makiug  the  sails  the  spars 
were  bent  to  position  on  the  floor  and  the  shape  marked, 
then  the  stuff,  a  single  width  of  sheeting,  was  cut  and 
sewn.  The  weather  grip,  adopted  after  many  experi- 
ments, is  3ft.  Tin.  on  top.  2ft.  on  bottom  and  l^in.  deep, 
being  immersed  lOin.  The  top  edge  is  |in.  thick,  bottom 
:J^iu,  The  distance  from  side  is  2ft.  4in.  ar d  the  immersed 
area  29osq.  in.  A  keel  has  also  l)een  added,  4in.  deep  in 
all,  of  which  the  lower  half  is  lead,  2olbs.  The  area  of 
keel  is  33dsq.  in. ,  or  with  grip  630sq.  in.  The  grip  is  hung 
from  the  sockets  for  the  rowlocks  by  two  cross  pieces  of 
wood  in  the  form  of  an  X,  riveted  where  they  cross  and 
also  to  the  top  of  the  grip.  The  boat  does  not  point  as 
close  as  some  of  her  competitors,  but  goes  enough  faster 
to  make  up  for  it,  making  sometimes  five  tacks  to  their 
fotir.  The  table  of  offsets  is  as  follows,  both  ends  being 
exactly  alike: 


246  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

TABLE  OF  OFFSETS— OPEN  SAILING  BOAT  OBACIE. 


Stations. 

Deck, 
Height. 

Half-Bkeadths. 

Deck.    No.  1. 

No.  2. 

No.  3. 

No.  4. 

Oand  12 

1    8 

1     53 

1    33 
1    2 
1    1 
1    02 

1 

0*  1         Qi 
5*            32 

0' 
2* 
6 

10 

1      12 

1    32 
1    41 

land  11 

1» 
45 

82 

11« 
1    22 
1    3 

0^ 

2  and  10 .. 

3  and   9 

9« 
1    0" 
1    3 
1    43 

72 

112 

1     4 

20 
5" 

4  and   8 

8" 

5  and   7 

11" 

6 

15         1    4» 

1 

1    0« 

In  the  winter  1887-8  a  plate  board  of  thin  steel  was 
added,  the  rig  was  changed  to  a  single  lug  of  86ft., 
rigged  as  in  Plate  XLVII.,  and  a  light  horizontal  wheel 
was  fitted  directly  on  the  rudder  head,  in  place  of  the 
tiller,  all  these  changes  being  for  the  better. 


Plate  XL VIII.— "Clio,"  Half  Decked  Sailing  Boat. 

Toronto  Bay,  on  Lake  Ontario,  is  the  home  of  a  fleet  of 
small  boats,  and  much  racing  is  done  there  through  the 
season.  Clio  was  the  champion  in  1887  and  is  a  good 
example  of  her  class.  She  is  of  pine,  lapstreak,  of  .\in. 
plank,  and  is  16ft.  long,  3ft.  Sin.  beam,  and  decked  for 
4ft.  6in.  forward,  2ft.  aft.  and  with  waterways  of  4  to 
6in.,  the  coaming  being  Sin.  high.  The  leading  dimen- 
sions are: 

Mast,  deck  to  head 16ft. 

from  stem 3ft. 

diameter,  deck  Sin. head  lln. 

Bowsprit,  outboard of t.  6in. 

Boom 18ft. 

Yard 10ft.  6in. 

Spinaker  boom 15ft. 

hoist 14ft. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  247 

Jib,  luff 14ft. 

foot 8ft. 

leech 13ft. 

area,  square  feet 49 

Mainsail,  foot 17ft.  61n. 

luff 10ft. 

head 10ft. 

leech 19ft.  91n. 

tack  to  peak 19ft.  6in. 

clew  to  throat 19ft.  6in. 

area,  squai  e  feet 190 

The  sails  are  of  light  drill,  the  roping  on  leech  only  ex- 
tending as  high  as  the  reefs.  The  centerboaad  is  of  i^-in. 
iron,  weighing  851bs.,  4ft.  long  and  3ft.  3in.  deep.  It  is 
sharpened  on  the  forward  edge.  The  boat  is  double- 
ended,  so  the  main  sheet  works  on  a  high  traveler  over 
the  tiller. 


Plate  XLIX. — Small  Dingeys. 

The  larger  boat  shown  in  Plate  XXiIX.  is  a  cross  between 
a  canoe  and  a  sneakbox,  intended  as  a  tender  to  a  small 
yacht,  the  object  being  to  obtain  something  narrow  enough 
to  fit  into  the  yacht's  gangway,  ready  for  use  at  all  times 
and  also  stiff  and  safe.  The  features  of  this  boat  are  a 
"shovel  nose"  to  facilitate  towing  when  preferred,  rather 
small  beam,  well  held  fore  and  aft,  long  flat  floor,  quick 
bilge  and  high  side  with  a  li^ht  deck  and  coaming  in 
canoe  fashion.  The  shape  of  the  moulds  at  three  cross 
sections  are  shown  by  the  dotted  lines.  She  is  Oft.  long, 
2^ft.  wide,  1ft.  deep  in  center  with  a  sheer  of  2in,,  and 
supplied  with  an  iron  centerboard  and  triangular  sail  7ft. 
on  foot,  head  and  leech.  The  board  is  of  ^in.  boiler  iron 
with  1ft.  vertical  drop.  The  sail  is  Fet  upon  a  short  stump 
pole  after  the  plan  of  the  Lord  Ross  lateen  for  canoes. 

A.  boat  of  the  ordinary  style,  but  extremely  serviceable, 
isalso  shown  in  the  diagrams.  From  these  it  will  be  seen 
she  possesses  great  width,  with  long,  flat  floor  and  high 


248  PROGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

sides,  tumbling  home  at  tlie  stern  and  along  the  side.  This 
tender  is  remarkable  for  the  load  she  carries  and  for  her 
stiffness,  which  makes  her  a  more  reliable  aud  useful  adjunct 
than  many  dingeys  twice  the  length.  She  is  only  6ft.  6in. 
long  over  all,  with  an  extreme  beam  of  3tl.  l|in.  Her  fault 
is  towing  heavily  when  sailing  fast,  and  the  difficulty  of 
stowing  on  deck  on  account  of  her  width. 


Plate  L. — SpoRTrNG  Boats, 

The  larger  drawing  represents  a  boat  for  ducking  and 
shooting,  thus  described  by  her  builder: 

She  shows  but  little  above  the  water,  draws  but  little,  and 
so  can  be  used  in  shoal  water,  can  easily  be  transformed  into 
a  capital  blind  by  using  a  little  grass,  weed,  or  brush  on  the 
deck.  She  is  not  easily  turned  over,  and  a  person  can  shoot 
from  any  position  in  her,  which  he  cannot  do  in  a  canoe.  I 
know  this  from  experience,  as  I  have  spent  many  a  day  in 
one. 

In  the  first  place,  to  get  frames  or  ribs  lay  out  on  the 
floor  a  cross  section  both  ways  of  the  boat,  full  size;  lay  off 
tlie  ribs  or  frames  a  foot  apart  the  whole  length,  and  taking 
the  measure  of  each  ons  on  the  horizontal  plan  gives  you 
the  length,  and  in  the  perpendicular  section  the  breadth. 
Then  on  the  ends  leave  the  width  of  the  sides,  which  in  my 
boat  is  only  ]2|in.  Then  take  a  strip  of  thin  stuff,  and  from 
a  dot  that  you  make  for  the  width  on  each  side  of  the  center 
spring  the  strip  to  the  width  of  sides  at  each  end,  top  and 
bottom,  and  you  have  the  curves  for  the  ribs.  Saw  out  the 
center  as  far  as  the  cockpit  comes,  and  you  have  the  forms. 
Stay  them  to  the  floor,  and  put  on  the  bottom  first. 

Material  for  frames  and  ribs  -^in.  oak,  also  for  the  sides, 
which  are  only  Hin.  wide.  Screw  the  sides  to  the  ribs, 
stem  and  sternpost  with  |in.  No.  6  wire  brass  screws.  It 
is  now  ready  for  the  bottom.  Use  -j^gin.  oak  ripped  to  6in. 
in  width,  and  where  each  joint  comes  use  a  batten  -,\-  by 
l^jn.,  clinched  through  about  l^in.  apart  with  brass 
escutcheon  pins,  driving  them  through  on  the  face  of  a 
hammer  or  piece  of  iron. 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  249 

Use  plenty  of  white  lead  on  the  battens  and  on  the  edge 
of  the  sides.  Fasten  the  covering  to  the  ribs  and  sides  with 
fin.  No.  1  wire  screws  and  escutcheon  pins. 

For  floor  to  the  coclipit  usefin.  pine,  and  the  washboards 
to  cockpit  fin.  blaclc  walnut  worked  up  and  down  and 
screwed  to  a  strip  let  into  the  top  of  the  frames,  and  at  the 
bottom  by  strips  put  between  the  ribs.  The  midship  section 
(No.  3)  shows  it  in  detail. 

Amount  of  material:  about  100ft.  of  -,\-in.  oak,  20ft.  of  ^in. 
oak,  enough  ^in.  oak  for  stem,  sternpost  and  keel,  12ft.  of 
fin.  pine  for  floor,  and  enough  material  for  the  washboards, 
which  can  be  black  walnut,  pine,  oik,  or  whatever  a  person 
chooses,  1^  gross  of  |in.  No.  6  wire  brass  scews,  3  gross  of 
fin.  No.  1  wire  brass  screws,  and  8oz.  of  stout  brass 
escutcheon  pins  ^in  long.  This  is  all  that  is  required  but 
paint. 

I  shall  rig  my  boat  to  sail,  using  two  legs  of  mutton  sails, 
sharpie  rig,  and  also  to  row.  The  oarlocks  will  want  to  be 
placed  on  the  outside  and  raised  up  high  enough  to  clear  the 
washboards,  which  can  be  done  by  a  block  or  an  iron,  the 
boat  being  so  wide  it  can  be  used  with  quite  a  long  oar,  and 
by  a  good  oarsman  it  can  be  sent  along  very  fast. 

The  smaller  boat  is  for  a  similar  purpose,  but  is  built  of 
canvas,  as  follows:  The  ribs  and  long  strips  are  made  of  oak 
^  by  scant  iin. ;  the  ribs  are  placed  oin.  apart,  and  there  are 
six  long  strips  on  each  side,  and  two  more  8ft.  long  to  fill  up 
the  larger  space  in  the  middle.  Where  each  strip  and  rib 
cross  they  are  clinched  together  with  a  copper  nail.  The 
gunwale  strips  are  |  square,  and  each  rib  is  let  into  them  and 
nailed  with  two  copper  nails.  Bring  the  canvas  over  the 
dado  in  the  stem  and  stern,  and  put  in  a  spline;  then  put  on 
a  keel  made  of  oak  outside  of  the  canvas  and  screw  it  tT  the 
center  keelson.  The  cockpit  is  made  of  half-inch  black  wal- 
nut screwed  to  the  gunwale  strips,  and  has  a  piece  ^  by  lin* 
screwed  on  top  on  the  sides  and  back,  so  that  it  leaves  |in. 
projection.    In  front  use  a  piece  ^in.  by  Sin. 

The  seat  is  made  of  two^in.  pine  pieces,  Sin.  wide,  screwed 
to  the  ribs,  and  the  top  U  rabbeted  ^x^,  and  the  top  is  made  o£ 


250  PBOGRESS  OF  CANOEING. 

2in.  by  ^in.  pine  strips  placed  lin.  apart  and  cleated  to- 
gether. 

The  deck  is  raised  lin.  in  center  of  boat,  so  that  it  sheds 
the  water,  both  sideways  and  endways. 

Bring  the  canvas  around  the  boat  and  nail  it  on  top  of 
gunwale,  and  the  deck  the  same,  and  then  put  a  neat  ^in. 
half-round  moulding  on  top  of  the  tacks,  so  that  it  makes 
a  neat  job. 


FLAT-BOTTOMED    BOATS. 


T^O  BUILD  a  framed  boat  with  a  round  bottom  requires 
-*-  time,  skilled  labor  and  good  material,  but  there  are 
many  casea  where  a  boat  is  desired  for  temporary  use,  for 
hard  work  where  a  light  boat  would  soon  be  destroyed,  or 
in  a  hurry,  m  which  cases  beauty,  light  weight  and  speed  are 
of  little  importance,  the  requisites  being  carrying  capacity, 
cheapness,  and  a  saving  of  time.  In  such  oases  the  methods 
previously  described  are  not  applicable,  but  the  ends  in  view 
will  be  best  filled  by  some  variety  of  "flat-bottomed"  boat, 
as  they  are  commonly  called.  With  the  rougher  of  these 
craft  but  little  skill  is  required  to  turn  out  a  strong  and 
useful  boat,  the  operations  being  little  more  diflBcult  than  the 
making  of  a  common  box,  and  even  with  the  finer  boats 
of  this  class  no  special  skill  is  needed  beyond  the  ability  to 
use  the  ordinary  tools  of  the  house  carpenter.  While  flat- 
bottomed  boats  are  usually  heavy  clumsy  and  ili-shaped, 
there  is  no  reason  why  they  may  not,  with  care  and  a  little 
skill,  be  almost  as  light  and  shapely  and  for  many  purposes 
as  good  or  even  better  than  the  more  costly  lapstreak  or 
carvel  buiit  craft. 

The  cheapest  and  simplest  of  all  boats  is  the  scow  (Fig.  1), 
a  style  of  boat  that  may  be  built  in  a  few  hours  and  at  an  ex- 
pense of  two  or  three  dollars  only.  In  almost  all  places  a  few 
common  boards  of  pine,  spruce,  or  almost  any  wood,  can 
readily  be  obtained,  the  commonest  size  in  Ame'rica  being 
13ft.  long,  lOin.  wide  and  lin.  thick.  To  construct  a  boat 
from  such  material  to  carry  two  or  three  persons,  four  or 
five  boards  will  be  necessary.  Two  of  these  should  be 
selected  and  a  length  of  lOft.  sawn  from  each;  The  edges 
of  these  pieces  are  now  planed  or  "jointed"'  up  straight  and 


352 


FLAT-BOTTOMED  BOATS. 


square  to  the  sides,  the  latter  being  either  planed  or  left 
rough.  These  two  side  pieces  (a)  are  laid  one  on  the  other, 
and  two  or  three  small  nails  driven  through  them  to  hold 
them  temporarily  together,  and  the  outline  of  the  side  is  now 
marked  on  the  upper  one.  The  upper  edge  of  the  boat  will 
be  straight,  the  bottom  will  be  straight  for  5ft.  amidships, 
and  at  each  end  for  2ft.  6in.  will  slant  upward  until  the 
end  pieces  of  the  boat  (b  b)  are  but  4in.  deep.  The  two  boards 
are  now  sawn  to  shape  and  planed  square  on  the  ends  and  the 
slanting  portions  of  the  bottom,  then  they  may  be  taken 
apart. 

Each  end  piece  will  be  3ft.  long,  or  longer  if  a  wider  boat 
is  required,  and  4^in.  wide  in  the  rough.     The  upper  edges 


Fig.  1— Scow. 


are  planed  up,  and  the  sides  are  each  nailed  to  the  ends, 
using  eight-penny  nails,  or  ten-penny  if  the  stuff  is  over  fin. 
thick.  The  frame  is  now  turned  bottom  up,  the  two  end 
pieces  are  planed  on  their  bottom  edges  to  correspond  with 
the  bevel  of  the  bottom,  then  a  sufficient  number  of  pieces  to 
cover  the  bottom  are  sawn  off  the  remaining  boards.  In 
this  case  they  will  each  be  3ft.  2in.  long.  Their  edges  are 
carefully  "jointed  up"  straight  and  square,  and  they  are 
nailed  in  place  across  the  bottom.  When  all  are  nailed  on 
the  ends  may  be  planed  down  even  with  the  sides  of  the 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  2o3 

boat.  To  stiffen  the  bottom  a  strip  5in.  wide  and  f  to  lin, 
thick  (see  i,  Fig.  2)  is  laid  down  the  center  of  the  bottom 
inside  and  nailed  with  wrought  or  clinch  nails  to  each  plank, 
the  nails  being  driven  through  and  their  points  clinched  or 
turned  In,  using  a  hammer  and  an  iron  set.  About  2ft.  at 
each  end  will  be  covered  with  a  deck,  as  at  h,  Fig.  2.  One 
seat  will  be  put  in  for  rowing,  being  supported  on  two  cleats, 
one  nailed  to  each  side.  Iron  rowlocks  may  be  obtained  in 
most  localities  at  a  cost  of  seventy-five  cents  per  pair,  and 
are  better  than  wooden  ones,  but  if  they  are  not  to  be  had, 
the  latter  can  be  made  of  oak.  A  cleat  of  oak  IJin.  thick, 
2in.  deep  and  9in.  long  is  screwed  along  the  inside  of  the 
gunwale.  In  each  cleat  two  mortises  are  cut,  l^in.  long, 
|in.  wide,  and  SJin.  apart.  The  rowlocks  are  each  7in. 
long,  |in.  thick,  2in.  wide  above  the  cleat,  and  l^in.  wide  in 
the  mortises,  projecting  4in.  above  the  gunwale  and  Sin. 
below. 

If  all  the  joints  are  neatly  made,  the  boat  should  be  tight 
after  being  in  the  water  a  short  time;  but  it  is  always  best 
to  paint  or  tar  the  entire  boat,  inside  and  out.  preserving  the 
wood  and  lessening  the  chance  of  leakage.  In  no  case  should 
caulking  be  needed  in  a  new  boat.  If  the  builder  desires, 
each  edge  can  be  painted  as  the  board  is  put  in  place,  which 
will  still  further  prevent  any  leakage. 

While  such  a  boat  is  often  aU  that  is  needed,  with  a  little 
more  care  and  skill  a  much  better  one  may  be  built.  The 
punt,  as  it  is  commonly  called  (Fig.  2),  is  a  scow  of  rather  bet- 
ter design  than  the  one  described  above,  but  the  op'.-rations  of 
building  arc  similar.  These  boats  are  often  used  lor  fishing 
on  rivers  and  ponds,  as  they  are  roomy,  stiff  and  safe  from 
any  danger  of  capsizing,  and  the  occupants  can  sit  all  day  in 
comfort,  or  move  about  freely,  which  cannot  be  done  in  a 
round-bottomed  boat  of  similar  size.  Such  a  boat  may  be 
14  to  16ft.  long,  4ft.  beam  at  gunwale,  3ft.  4in.  at  bottom, 
and  the  sides  14in.  deep.  The  sides  (//)  will  each  be  a  little 
longer  than  the  length  of  the  completed  boat,  14in.  wide 
and  fin.  thick.  They  should  be  free  from  knots  and 
sap    wood,     and    as    nearly    alike     as     possible,    so    as 


?54 


FLAT-BOTTOMED  BOATS. 


to  bend  equally.  One  is  laid  on  two  benches,  the 
outline  of  the  boat  is  marked  out  as  shown,  the 
ends  sweeping  upward  in  easy  curves,  and  it  is  sawn  and 
planed  to  shape.  It  is  then  laid  on  the  second  board,  the 
two  are  lightly  nailed  tOiOjether.  and  the  latter  planed  to  match, 
a  center  Une  being  marked  on  both  while  nailed  together. 
The  two  end  pieces  (c  c)  are  next  sawn  out  of  lin.  oak  or  ash, 
the  ends  being  beveled,  as  the  bottom  of  the  boat  througout 
■will  be  narrower  than  the  top.  Next  a  piece  {d)  14  to  16in. 
wide  and  4ft.  long  is  sawn  off  and  the  ends  beveled,  making 
it  4ft.  long  on  the  upper  edge  and  3ft.  4in.  near  the  lower. 
The  two  small  projections  (e  e)  are  left,  to  aid  in  setting  the 


z 


J 


nn. 


— 

_. 

— 

/ 

/■ 

-«f 

1^1 

^ 

^ 


-/-    ^ 


-/- 


Fig.  S— PtiNT. 


side  correctly.  This  board  or  mould  is  placed  on  edge, 
one  side  board  is  laid  in  place  against  it  at  the  center  mark, 
and  a  few  nails  are  driven  through  the  side  board  into  the 
end  of  the  piece.  Now  the  other  side  is  fitted  in  the  same 
manner.  The  three  pieces  resting  on  a  level  floor  the  corre- 
sponding ends  of  the  side  pieces  are  drawn  together  with 
ropes  until  the  end  pieces  will  just  fit  between,  then  the  sides 
are  nailed  or  screwed  to  the  ends.  The  best  way  to  do  this 
is  to  bore  the  holes  and  fit  each  side  in  turn  to  its  correspond- 
ing end  piece,  putting  in  the  screws,  before  the  sides  are 


AMATEUR  CANOE  BUILDING.  255 

nailed  to  the  mould  (the  pieces  after  fitting  being  taken 
apart);  then  when  the  ends  are  finally  in  place  there  is  nc 
trouble  in  holding  and  adjusting  them,  the  screws  being  rein- 
serted in  the  holes  already  bored. 

When  sides  and  ends  are  well  fastened  together,  both 
of  the  frames  should  have  the  same  degree  of  curve,  and  the 
entire  frame  should  be  true  and  symmetricaL  The  lower 
edges  of  the  sides  having  been  planed  square,  now  require 
to  be  beveled  slightly,  on  account  of  the  outward  flare  of 
the  sides.  To  do  this  a  piece  of  board,  one  of  those  cut  for 
the  bottom,  is  laid  across  and  used  as  a  guide,  the  outer 
corner  of  each  edge,  both  of  sides  and  ends,  being  planed  off 
until  the  board  lies  flat  across  all  the  edges.  The  bottom 
boards  are  now  cut  to  length  and  nailed  in  place,  the  edges 
of  each  being  very  carefully  planed  up  to  fit  its  neighbors. 
When  the  bottom  is  on,  the  ends  are  planed  off  even  with 
the  side  of  the  boat,  it  is  turned  over  and  a  strip  {i)  oin.  wide 
is  nailed  down  the  middle  of  the  bottom,  as  in  the  previous 
boat.  This,  strip  will  be  lin.  thick  at  its  center,  but  toward 
the  ends  it  may  diminish  to  ^in.  so  as  to  bend  more  easily  to 
the  curve  of  the  bottom.  When  it  is  in,  the  ends  are  decked 
over  for  two  or  three  feet,  as  at  h  h.  Two  thwarts  or  seats 
{jj)  will  be  put  in,  each  9in.  wide  and  lin.  thick.  They  should 
be  placed  about  7in.  below  the  gunwale,  and  each  end  will 
rest  on  a  short  piece  nailed  to  the  side  of  the  boat,  long 
enough  to  reach  from  the  bottom  to  the  wider  side  of  the 
seat.  The  seats  should  be  secured  well  to  the  sides,  as  they 
serve  to  stiffon  the  boat.  A  gunwale  strip  is  usually  run 
around  the  outer  edge.  It  may  be  of  oak  |in.  wide  and  l^in. 
thick,  screwed  to  the  side  pieces.  Rowlocks  and  stretchers 
complete  the  boat.  It  will,  however,  be  easier  to  row  straight 
if  a  skag  be  added  to  the  after  end.  A  stern  post  of  oak 
Ixl^in.  is  nailed  down  the  center  of  the  end,  and  in  the 
angle  between  it  and  the  bottom  is  fitted  a  piece  of  liu. 
board  (o.  Fig.  3)  nailed  to  it  and  the  bottom.  On  the  stern 
post  a  rudiler  m^iy  be  hung  if  desired. 

While  such  a  boat  answers  very  well  for  fishing  and  simi- 
lar purposes,  if  much  rowing  or  sailing  is  done,  a  better  form 


256 


FLAT-BOTTOMED  BOATS. 


is  that  of  the  skiff  or  bateau  shown  in  Fig.  3.  In  this  boat 
the  after  end  is  similar  to  the  previous  one,  but  the  bow  is 
very  different,  resembling  more  a  round-bottomed  boat.   The 


sideboards  are  marked  and  cut  as  in  the  former  boat,  but  at 
the  fore-end  they  are  not  cut  up  at  all,  but  are  sawn  off  at  a 
slight  bevel  to  fit  the  forward  rake  of  the  stem  {k  I  shows 
the  sideboard  in  the  rough,  with  the  side  marked  out).     The 


AMATEUR  GAIfOE  BUILDING.  257 

gunwale  will  have  a  slight  sheer,  part  of  it  being  due  to  the 
bending  of  the  sideboards,  but  to  increase  it  the  upper  edges 
are  ma  le  a  little  hollow,  their  concavity  being  from  1  to  2in., 
according  to  the  sheer  desired,  A  middle  mould  is  cut  out 
similar  to  cl,  and  also  a  stern  piece,  the  latter  of  lin.  oak.  It 
is  fitted  and  screwed  to  each  sideboard  in  turn,  then  it  is 
taken  off,  the  sideboards  are  nailed  to  the  mould  along  the 
lines  A  B,  and  the  sternboard  is  replaced  and  screwed  fast. 
Now  the  two  sides  are  drawn  together  with  a  rope  at  their 
fore-ends  until  they  nearly  or  quite  meet,  as  at  t,  and  a  piece 
of  oak  of  triangular  form  (r)  is  cut  to  fit  in  the  angle 
between  them,  and  they  are  screwed  fast  to  it.  The  bend 
of  the  sides  will  cause  the  bottom  of  the  boat  to  have 
considerable  rocker,  usually  much  more  than  is  desirable. 
To  avoid  this,  when  the  frame  is  thus  far  completed,  the  bot- 
tom edges  of  both  sideboards  are  planed  down  from  m  to  n, 
until  the  bottom  is  straight  for  some  distance  amidships. 
This  can  best  be  determined  by  setting  the  frame,  top  upward, 
on  a  level  floor.  When  the  edges  are  planed  off  equally  they 
must  be  beveled,  as  in  the  preceding  boat,  the  floor  is  nailed 
on,  the  middle  piece  is  put  in  and  nailed  down,  and  the 
thwarts  put  in.  Both  in  bow  and  stern  there  will  also  be 
seats  at  about  Sin.  below  the  gunwale  and  of  the  shape 
shown.  To  complete  the  bow,  the  ends  of  the  sideboards 
are  planed  off,  and  another  triangular  piece  of  oak  (»)  is 
sawn  out  and  nailed  against  the  ends  and  the  piece  r,  as 
shown,  making  a  sharp  bow.  A  scag  (p)  is  also  arided,  wale 
strips  are  put  on,  and  the  boat  is  ready  for  painting.  Such 
a  boat  may  have  a  centerboard,  as  described  in  the  previous 
chapters,  and  may  also  be  fitted  with  sails  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  an  ordinary  round-bottomed  boat. 


258  FLAT-BOTTOMED  BOATS. 

THE  DORY. 


These  boats  are  largely  used,  by  the  fishermen  of  the 
Atlantic  Coast,  both  along  shore  and  on  the  fishing  ves- 
sels, and  they  are  also  suitable  for  rowing  and.  as  service 
boats  for  yachts. 

The  boat  here  shown  is  planked  with  white  pine,  the 
sides,  of  three  pieces  each,  being  tVin.,  and  the  bottom 
^in.  The  laps  of  the  siding  are  rabbeted,  so  as  to  make  a 
flush  surface  inside  and  out.  The  timbers  are  of  oak  l|x 
lin.  and  3|in.  in  thwarts.  The  gunwales  are  l|in.  xliin., 
with  a  fin.  strip  on  top,  covering  edge  of  upper  streak 
also.  There  are  three  movable  thwarts  resting  on  risings, 
and  removed  when  the  boats  are  nest>3d  or  packed.  The 
sizes  ai'e  so  arranged  that  five  boats  can  be  stored  together, 
one  within  the  other,  thus  occupying  little  space  on  deck. 


INDEX. 


Page 

Annie,  Canoe  Yawl !io5 

Apron 62, 115 

Back  Rabbet 43 

Backboard  Canoe 66 

Boat 119 

Balance  Lug »4, 166,  225 

Ballast  in  Canoes 161 

Barnegat  Cruiser 216 

Sneakbox 215 

Bateau 251 

Battens 84, 141 

Beam 136 

Beading  Line 43 

Beds,  Camp 104 

Bench 34 

Bending  Timbers 119 

Bevel 49 

Bilge  Keels 55 

Block  Model 19 

Boat,  Flat 167 

Body  Plan 13 

Breasthook 117 

Broadstrdak 49 

Building 37,  10 

Burrs 52 

Buttock  Line 13, 18, 123 

Button  Boards 118 

Canoe : 

Canadian 7 

Canvas 80,  111,  156 

Classification 8, 135 

Clyde 141 

Cruiser,  Barnegat 316 

Cruising 137, 141, 145, 149 

Definition 7 

Dot 139 

Double 153 

Doubleskin 29 

Elements 124 

Fittings 57 

GuHun 179 

Herald 29 

lone £03 

Jacket  62,64 

Jersey  Blue 13,  23, 1S7 

Laco  wsic 174 

Laloo 141 

Lassie lOS 

Mersey 312 

Metal 29 


Page 
Canoe: 

Nautilus 145 

Notus 176 

Ontario 30 

Paper 30 

Pearl 147,  158 

Pecowsic 170 

Raritania 137 

Ribband  Carvel 28 

River 137 

Sails 70 

Seat 66 

Shadow 139 

Sunbeam ]69 

Tandem 153 

Vagaboad  200 

Vesper 174 

Yawl 204 

Canoe  Construction 180 

Canvas  Boat 165 

Carvel  Build 27,  119,  233 

Cassy 206 

Caulking 27,  121 

Cedar 133 

Centerboards.  .88,  93, 125, 127, 134, 
187 

Centerboard  Trunks 40,  90 

Center  of  EfTort 71 

Lateral  Resistance  71 

Clamps ■ 34 

Cleat,  Butler  199 

Clinker  Build  27 

Clio,  Open  Boat 2^16 

Clyde  Canoe 141 

Clyde  Tent 103 

Coamings 55 

Coefficient  of  Displacement..    9 

Cove 117 

Crrgs  Spalls 53 

Crown  of  Deck 54 

Crutch 139 

Decks 54 

Deck  Beams 54,112 

Flaps  60 

Hatches 66 

Tiller... 131,190 

Yoke 129 

Delta,  Sailing  Boat 330 

Dept  h  ot  Keel 136 

Designing 11 

Diagonal  Lines 13, 17 


INDEX, 


261 


Page 

Dingeys 247 

Displacement 9 

Dory 238 

Draft 10 

Drawing  Instruments 11 

Paper 12 

Drip  Cups 68 

Drop  Rudder 95, 199 

Ducker 237 

Fairing 17 

Famlxam's  Apron 63, 133 

Finisliing 56 

Fittings 57 

Flaps,I)eck  60 

Floor  Boards £3,54,118 

Knees 117 

Footlines 118 

Foot  Yoke 129 

Forest  and  Stream  Cruiser.  ..221 
Freeboard 10 

Garboard —  45 

Gracie 243 

Gridiron 107 

Gunwale 112,117 

Half  Breadth  Plan.. 12 

Halliard 82,141 

Hatches Cfi,  149 

Headledges 43,  90 

Hunting  Boats 248 

Inwale  112 

Iris 213 

Jackstay 86 

Keel 40, 112, 115, 126 

Batten 40 

Keelson 115 

Kittiwake  Tent. 102 

Lamps 110 

Lapstreak 27 

Laying  Down 21 

Ledges 53 

Limber  Holes 53 

Lines 12 

Mast  Steps  and  Tubes 55 

Materials 31 

Mattress i04 

Measurement  Rules 10, 125 

Mess  Chest 110 

Middle  Ordinate 18, 123 

Midship  Section 10, 14 

Models 8,19 

Mohican  Sail 159 

Moulds 24, 115 


Page 
NailingPlank 50,51 

Offsets,  Tables  of 21 

Oliver  Lateen 78 

Paddles 67 

Painting 56 

Panels 141 

Paper  Canoes  30 

Pecowalu  170 

Planking 32,  45 

Plank,  Taxing  Off 23 

Punts 251 

Rabbet  Line 40, 115 

Racks 118 

Reefing  Gear 78,  141, 14.5,  198 

Ribs 44,52,  112 

Rib  and  Batten  Canoes 28 

Risings 118 

Riveting 52 

Rocker 10 

Rowboats U5,  122, 156 

Rowlocks 118 

Rudders 94, 119,  189, 199 

Fastenings 96 

Lines 132 

Sails 70 

Canoe  Yawl 208 

Clio 246 

Delta 236 

Dot 140 

Forest  &  Stream  Cruiser.225 

Gracie 244 

lone 2C3 

Iris 214 

Laloo 143 

Lassie 177 

Lateen 76 

Leg  of  Mutton 76 

Lord  Ross  Lateen 76 

Lugs 82,163,189 

Measurement  ot 72 

Mohican 78, 159 

Notus  178 

Oliver  Lateen 78 

Pecowsic 173 

Sea  Bee 180 

Sharpie 76 

Sneakbox 166 

Stevens 192 

Sunbeam 169 

Tandem  Canoe L"5 

Vagabond 192 

Vesper 176 

Vital  Spark ?08 

Yawl  IfiO 

ScagBand 119 

Scow 2.51 

Seats,  Canoe G6 


263 


LIST  OF  PLATES. 


Paoe 

Set 84 

Sharpie  Rig 7B 

Sheer 10 

Shutter 121 

Sirmark .  .46,  48 

Skirt  Jacket 62,  64 

Sneakbox 215 

SpilinK.  46,119 

Spinaker 198 

Staff 46 

Stem 40,115 

Band 55,119 

Steam  Box £9,119 

Steering  Gears 12i,  159 

Stephens'  Oerterboard 187 

Rudder  Gear 189 

Stern 116 

Stirrups 129, 132 

Stocks 36 

Stopwaters 44 

Stretcher 130 

Stoves 106, 108 

Tabernacles 97,209 

Tack 82,141 

Tiller,  Deck 131,190 

Butler 199 

Topping  Lift 86 


Page 

Telescopic  Apron 63 

Tents 100,133 

Thwarts 118 

Tiller 131,190 

Timbers,  Be   ding 119 

Timber  Block 119 

Timbering  Canoe 52 

Tools 33 

Transom  Knees 117 

Trunks 40 

Tuckup 239 

Upper  Streak 45, 117 

Varnishing 56 

"Vagabond 200 

Vesper 174 

Vise 34 

Vital  Spark 207 

Watertight  Hatches 149 

Weather  Helm 74 

Wells 55.  57 

Work  Bench 34 

Yachts'  Boats .  .163 

Yawl,  Canoe 160,187 

Yoke OT 


LIST    OF    PLATES. 


I.  Cruising  Canoe  "Jersey  Blue"— Lines. 

II.  Canoe  "Jersey  Blue"— Construction  Drawing. 

III.  River  Canoe  "Raritania." 

IV.  Cruising  Canoe  "Dot"— Shadow  Model. 
V.  "Dot"— Racing  Sail. 

VI,  Clyde  Caace  "Laloo." 

VII.  "Laloo"- Sail  Plan. 

VIII.  Racing  and  Cruising  Canoe  "Nautilus." 

IX.  Cruising  Canoe  "Pearl"  No.  3. 

X.  Racing  Canoe  "Pearl"  No.  6. 

XI.  American  Cruising  and  Racing  Canoe. 

XII,  Tandem  Canoe. 

XIII.  Tandem  Canoe— Sail  Plan. 

XIV.  Canvas  Canoe. 

XV.  Fourteen-foot  Rowboat, 

XVI.  Rowing  and  Sailing  Boat. 

XVII.  Mohican  Sail.    Canoe  Footgear. 


LIST  OF  PLATES. 


263 


XVIII.    Canoe  Fittings. 

XIX.    Class  A  Canoe  "Lassie." 
XX.    "Lassie"— Sail  Plan. 

XXL    Class  B  Canoe  "Sunbeam." 
XXIL    Class  B  Canoe  "Pecowsic." 

XXIII.  "Pecowsic"— Sail  Plan.    "Vesper"— Sail  Plan. 

XXIV.  Class  B  Canoe  "Vesper." 
XXV.    Class  B  Canoe  "Notas." 

XXVI.    "Notus"— Sail  Plan. 
XXVII.    Class  B  Canoe  "Guenn"— Lines. 
XXVIII.    Class  B  Canoe  "Guenn"— Fittings. 

XXIX.    Class  B  Canoe  "Guenn"— Sail  Plan.    Drop  Rudder. 
XXIXa.    Canoe  Fittings. 
XXX.    Class  B  Canoe  "Vagabond." 

XXXo.    Body  Plans  of  "Vesper"  and  "Vagabond."     "Iris" 
Sail  Plan. 

XXXI.    Canoe  "lone." 
XXXIL    "lone"— Sail  Plan.    Canoe  Yawl  "Ann: u" 

XXXIII.  Canoe  Yawl  "Cassy." 

XXX IV.  Canoe  Yawl  "Vital  Spark." 
XXXV.    "Vital  Spark"— Sail  Plan. 

XXXVI.    Mersey  Canoe. 

XXXVII.    Canoe  Yawl  "Iris."    (Sail  Plan  on  Plate  XXXo.) 
XXXVIII.    Barnegat  Sneakbox. 
XXXIX.    Barnegat  Cruiser. 

XL.    "Forest  and  Stream"  Cruiser. 
XLI.    "Forest  and  Stream"  Cruiser— Sail  Plan. 
XLII.    Sailing  and  Cruising  Boat  "Delta." 
XLIII.    Sailing  and  Cruising  Boat  "Delta"— Sail  Plan. 
XLIV.    Delaware  River  "Duckor." 
XLV.    Delaware  River  "Tuckup." 
XLVI.    "Tuckup"  Sail  Plan.    "Forest  and  Stream"  Cruiser^ 

Body  Plan. 
XL VII.    Sailing  Skiff  "Gracie." 
XLVIII.    Sailing  Skiff  "Clio." 
XLIX.    Small  Dingeys. 
L.    Sporting  Boats. 


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